Classic & Vintage - finger on the trigger: Raleigh SC

I'm looking to get a bike for my cousin as a daily rider. This puppy isn't too far from me and seems a pretty good price (when one applies the NY curve). I showed the cousin the picture and he thought it looked cool, but has little to base an opinion on besides the color. Is this going to be a good purchase for someone that doesn't necessarily go bananas over '531' or reclaimed shine or beat-up leather? Luckily it's too small for me so I'm not tempted.

No picture on your end, or a price/link, but I'm doing a 'pro bono' rehab on my mailman's SC. I'd say fixed up it's a $150-$200 bike. I'm putting that much labor into his, because I'm a sucker, and it was his first 'decent' bike.

It depends on the age. The SC was upgraded over the years.

I'm looking to get a bike for my cousin as a daily rider. This puppy isn't too far from me and seems a pretty good price (when one applies the NY curve). I showed the cousin the picture and he thought it looked cool, but has little to base an opinion on besides the color. Is this going to be a good purchase for someone that doesn't necessarily go bananas over '531' or reclaimed shine or beat-up leather? Luckily it's too small for me so I'm not tempted.

Whoops - I'm a dolt

http://newyork.craigslist.org/wch/bik/644549955.html

Looks to be well worth the asking price, jump on it!

Wouldn't complain at that deal, but it looks as if the components might not have faired as well as the frame. Needs a good lookie over in person.

Make sure the seatpost and handlebar stem are not stuck in the frame - the post doesn't look that well cared for. Either of 'em stuck is a positive deal breaker.

-Kurt

It's $100 in NYC?!?

You can't buy a burger and a beer for that.

edit: PB Blaster and a mallet will loosen *almost anything* could be they didn't know to tap the bolt with a hammer.

It's $100 in NYC?!?

You can't buy a burger and a beer for that.

edit: PB Blaster and a mallet will loosen *almost anything* could be they didn't know to tap the bolt with a hammer.

Well said OFG. But remember you're eating the burger and drinking the beer *in New York City*!

If this were for me I could see accepting a stuck seatpost challenge, but for my cousin... I mean he's like my 3rd cousin - 2nd maybe I could see frozen parts removal, but 3rd?

But while I've got you here - PB Blaster? Haven't tried it. The last time I had a stucky it wasa hacksaw blade and 90 minutes of swearing and sweating. Is there another way??

edit: PB Blaster and a mallet will loosen *almost anything* could be they didn't know to tap the bolt with a hammer.

I've got some posts and stems for you to remove if you come down to Miami sometime...let's see you do so with P.B. Blaster and nothing else.

-Kurt

That's what I was asking for mine and mines a pos.
PB Blaster is good stuff. heat works good too.

heat works good too.

Have you ever honestly tried that? Aluminum expands and contracts at twice the rate of steel. Heating a post will only tighten the mess up.

-Kurt

I've got some posts and stems for you to remove if you come down to Miami sometime...let's see you do so with P.B. Blaster and nothing else.

-Kurt
You couldn't pay me to come to Miami, but if I did, I'd need a couple of days, a can of PB Blaster and a copper pipe and a hammer, and a contract saying I'm not responsible...

You couldn't pay me to come to Miami, but if I did, I'd need a couple of days, a can of PB Blaster and a copper pipe and a hammer, and a contract saying I'm not responsible...


+1 Few seized things can survive a midwesterner hell bent on un-sticking them. :D

On my last stuck seat post, I used a fair amount of PB for a few days, attached an old saddle to the post, and took repeated blows on the side if it with a 5lb sledge. After about the 6th hit, it started to spin, and about 30 minutes later it was out.

I love that stuff, but beware...too much on the paint (sitting for days) will strip it right off :)

+1 Few seized things can survive a midwesterner hell bent on un-sticking them. :D

True that!

The price is right but the seller is a little off on his description. It's a mid-late '70's (not '60's) indicated by the "RALEIGH" block lettering on the down tube. Earlier models had script lettering. Also, it's not top of the line 531 frame since only the main tubes were 531 on the SC. Nevertheless, you should jump on it.