rohloff & albatrosses cranks & dummies?

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captainnemo

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AllenG

The Rohloff shifter will fit an albatross bar just fine, that is the setup I'm using on my longtail.
My longtail setup has an assist motor and the bottom bracket/crank is proprietary.
On my bamboo utility bike I'm using a Race Face SS crank/bottom bracket, however they have had some durability problems (although I have not as yet), and if I were to install another bottom bracket I would use the Shimano equivalent.

With only one or two exceptions your build is almost identical to my bamboo bike.

vik

I am building a Big Dummy up. The plan is to build it once ride it forever, so I am pretty keen to get it right the first time.

So far I have purchased the....

frame
Rohloff hub
Dt Swiss 5.1D rims
Competition spokes/prolock nipples
BB7 brakes
Marathon XR 2.0 tires

already own ( my crosscheck has been dumbed down ;) )....

B17
thomson post
king headset
salsa liplock clamp

and will be purchasing....

Son front dyno hub
E6 primary and secondary lights
pitlock skewers
xtracycle kit
thomson stem

which leaves me with some questions re the rest....

Will albatross bars play with rohloff shifters, is anyone using such a setup?

What sort of bb/crank combo are people using and what would they use if the only considerations are ultimate functionality,durability in a min chain ring size of 40( rohloff spec 40/16 min for tandem/loaded use)?

Great build sounds like you'll have a fun/useful bike when you are done.

As for the cranks/chainring I'd use whatever you had at hand. All the fancy stuff does is help you shift when using a front dérailleur. I'm using a Race Face LP Turbine crank I had on a MTB I gave away.

I've gone back and forth about the minimum chain ring size for a Rohloff and Big Dummy. Ar first I was thinking it needed to be at least a 40 x 16 as I was using the Rohloff tandem spec, but I've since changed my mind. The primary reason for setting a minimum chain ring size is to limit the input torque to the hub. On a tandem you might have two strong riders going hard and that is what Rohloff used to determine their safe low end gear ratio.

On a Big Dummy no matter how much load you are trying to get up hill you still only have a single rider applying torque to the hub. My chicken legs are probably way below the potential power that Rohloff assumed when figuring the safe input torque. So I'm going to use a 38 x 16 gear ratio on my Big Dummy.

I'm no expert at this so if my logic is flawed please let me know.

joelparks

I am building a Big Dummy up. The plan is to build it once ride it forever, so I am pretty keen to get it right the first time.

A lot like mine too!

BD frame & fork
Rohloff hub
Surly New Disk front hub
Velocity Cliffhanger rims
Wheelsmith 2.0/1.8/2.0 spokes & nipples (black, from Peter White Cycles)
Juicy7 brakes
Schwalbe Big Apple 2.35 tires
B17
Kalloy post
Cane Creek headset
pitlock skewers
xtracycle kit
Titec H-bars
Titec "Micros" straight bar ends, mounted on the front extension of the H-bar to hold the Rohloff shifter. I started with one, cut it down so it is flush with the end of the shifter when the shifter is slid all the way on, and mounted it on the right front hbar end. After a few days of riding I realized it would be nice to have the other one in the same position on the other side, and again I'm quite happy with the results. See the picture below. I think I'll cut the left one down to the same length as the right, and pad it out to approximate the same size as the Rohloff shifter, but already it's a nice alternative place to hang out on the bars.

I've got 4cm of spacers between the headset and the stem, and that stem has some rise to it as well as some length. Worked out great. (Found this place called purelycustom.com where I could get a 4cm spacer with custom lettering and graphics (not custom, I'm getting a peace sign on mine along with my name and "one less car"), in any one of several colors including black. I hope it comes in the right diameter, they didn't seem to say whether it would be 1" or 1&1/8".) Edit: It came in the right size! Woo hoo!

I like the idea of the Son nabendynamo but wasn't quite ready to sink another 300 on top of what was already past $3K and not finished... and I've had good results with battery lights.

I'm using a Shimano UN54 BB, 68x122mm, a cheap crank (Sinz) 110 bcd and 165mm arms, Surly 40t ring and Salsa Crossing Guard ring to keep my pants off the chainring. My Rohloff has a 16t sprocket.

I bought the cheap crank because I could get it in 165 length, and they come even shorter. I'm barely 5'5" and I don't agree with the trend toward longer cranks these days. Plus I get even more ground clearance and pedaling through the cornering.

After the first couple days I had been worried I picked too small a chainring. But on the 85 mile ride yesterday I found myself in gear 11 when I was comfortably cruising along on level ground. So I think maybe I picked the right ratio after all. And 1st gear is still a stump puller, except the Big Apples loose traction when I stomp off unless there's a lot of weight onboard.

Joel

captainnemo

Thanks for the replies guys. I am slowly getting there with the bike. I think I have found the cranks I desire....

http://www.whiteind.com/cranks/singlespeedcranks.html

Either with their BB or a Phil Wood. I have a Eno Eccentric Hub in my fixie which is beautifully crafted so I guess the cranks will be the same.

Yeah the lights are pricey but dyno lights are so easy. I have a prebuilt shimano version on my cross check at the moment which I commute on (until the dummy is built ) and just getting on the bike after work and rolling out the door is really nice.

I think a few solo camping trips will be in order if I can get a leave pass from the family. Strap the swag on the back with some fishing gear and a stove and away I go.

For the non australians a swag is more or less a bedroll. Mines one of these....

http://www.theswagstore.com.au/commerce.asp?CatId=353&ProdId=AOSTRAC

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