Bicycle Mechanics - Building custom bike with triple crank, help please!!

Hello,

I have decided to build a custon bike, and I am going to buy the parts individually as I can afford them. Here are the specs that I would like:

Steel Frame
Carbon Forks
Triple 105 Groupset
Reliable wheelset (will eventually get Ksyriums or simaler for racing)

I was wondering what thoughts everyone had on what brand of frame, forks and wheels to get. I want something reliable, but I don't have a lot of money to through around, and as for racing I'm not worried about how fast my bike is, as I will only be doing the big endurance rides with 1000+ riders.

For the groupset, what gearing should I get? I was thinking 52/42/30 on the front, and something on the back that wont give me a really low gear, just something a bit lower than your standard double, and that way I can have a "corn cob" casette. I also don't mind having top gear only as high as a 14 tooth, as I don't use anything higher now.

What's everybodys thoughts on this?

Thanks.

If you're on a seriously small budget, and since you're not fussed on how fast it is (thus you hopefully won't care how new and cool is is), go for 2002 or 2003 parts; most shops will want to get rid of old stock ASAP, and will hack the prices of last years parts. For example, I could get 2003 9spd Veloce for much less than 2004 105, which is not only cheaper, but Campy too :). Search around for bargains and you can have a much better bike than the price tag would suggest.

Dude, you should get the dura-ace triple gearing, I like the idea of having a 53/39 with the bailout 30 in reserve. When I bought my bike, though, the LBS guy wouldn't swap out the middle ring of the 105 triple for a 39, and I ended up with a double :D. gotta have that 39, you know?

Is there any reason why you couldn't just slap on a 39 in place of a 42 on the triple? seems simple to me, but am I missing something.

well if you read my post a bit closer, you will see that I'm on a budget, and Dura-ace is more than twice the price than 105 over here in New Zealand. I don't know why you cant put a 39 on as the middle ring, it might have something to do with the size of the things that hold it all together, I forget the name of them, then spider like things that the rings bolt on to.

well if you read my post a bit closer, you will see that I'm on a budget, and Dura-ace is more than twice the price than 105 over here in New Zealand. I don't know why you cant put a 39 on as the middle ring, it might have something to do with the size of the things that hold it all together, I forget the name of them, then spider like things that the rings bolt on to.

Silly, I said dura-ace triple GEARING. I just meant the actual sizes of the chainrings. Top of the line stuff is too expensive for most purposes. I know you are probably on a budget, thats why you spec'ed a 105 kit. btw, dura-ace is twice what 105 is here in the USA too.

ultegra/mavic open pros for wheels

Shimano make a 11X32 Cassett which I have had on a 105 groupe on a Shwinn and currently have it on my present Trek with Ultegra components. I put this on because I am handicapped and very weak. With the standard 105 crankset of 52X42X30 you will have all of the hill climbing ease you could wish for and a heck of a high gear ratio for going lickdty split down grades. I can't emagine you gaining any significant amount with any differnt gears.

Re: Gearing

First off: Typical lowest gear for a "standard" double is 39/27 or about 3.0m (assumes 700C wheels).

Second: I'm not sure you'll be able to find a cassette that starts at 14T.

Third: If 52/14 (or about 7.8m) is big enough for your tallest gear, then you may want to explore a compact double crank. With the 110mm BCD, you can get a chainring as small as 33T (although 34T is much more common). So you could run a combo like 48x34 with a 13-25 cassette. A 48/13 gives a 7.75m high gear and a 34/25 gives a 2.86m low gear. A standard road double front derailer will shift this fine.

Fourth: Taking the "compact" concept one step further, you could go with a "micro" 94mm BCD crank where a chainring as small as 29T is possible. A common double chainring combo for this crank is 44x29. You could run this with a 12-23 which would give you a high gear of 7.7m and a low gear of 2.65m. This is what I've done on my bike. I run 44x29 with a 12-21 for day-to-day use and then put on a 13-28 for loaded touring. A standard road double front derailer may not shift this so well. However, that is what I'm using and it works fine.

Most cranks with 110mm and 94mm BCD are triples. But you can just leave off that granny ring - that's what I've done.

Hello,

At this point I am saving up to get a frame. I have my eyes on the KHS Flite 800 Steel frame made of Reynolds 853, with Carbon Fork & Steerer. It can be viewed here (http://www.multisportbikes.co.nz/StockCatalogue.asp?save=Goto&StockID=190) (remember currency is in NZD$).

I figured to get the frame first, as Steel frames have a lifetime warranty, and it wont expire while its hanging in the garage waiting for me to be able to afford the rest.

Dude, you should get the dura-ace triple gearing, I like the idea of having a 53/39 with the bailout 30 in reserve. When I bought my bike, though, the LBS guy wouldn't swap out the middle ring of the 105 triple for a 39, and I ended up with a double :D. gotta have that 39, you know?

Is there any reason why you couldn't just slap on a 39 in place of a 42 on the triple? seems simple to me, but am I missing something.You can stick a 39 on a 105 yourseld:130 BCD. Works better if you can get a pinned and ramped one from Peter White Cycles, but it ain't critical.

Hello,

At this point I am saving up to get a frame. I have my eyes on the KHS Flite 800 Steel frame made of Reynolds 853, with Carbon Fork & Steerer. It can be viewed here (http://www.multisportbikes.co.nz/StockCatalogue.asp?save=Goto&StockID=190) (remember currency is in NZD$).

I figured to get the frame first, as Steel frames have a lifetime warranty, and it wont expire while its hanging in the garage waiting for me to be able to afford the rest.Why not just save up and buy a whole bike.Unless you get some killer deals,you can't put one together cheaper than a fatory. Or, buy used.

Why not just save up and buy a whole bike.Unless you get some killer deals,you can't put one together cheaper than a fatory. Or, buy used.
I was about to write the same thing. I could see the exercise being worthwhile if you were wanting to do something really different (e.g. Campy parts on a bike that's only sold Shimano equipped), or if you already owned a lot of the parts to get started. But it seems you're not really building a "custom" bike i.e. not a custom build frame or non-standard grouppo.

There's quite a few Reynold 853 bikes available with full 105 groups that will likely be significantly cheaper than buying the frame and all the parts separately. At the site that sells the KHS, a full 105 group is $1099. Add a decent wheelset, bars, seatpost, seat, stem, tools and services from the LBS for headset press in etc etc and you'll end up way over the price of a complete bike (e.g Fuji Roubaix at the same site $2499, add a couple of hundred bucks and you can pick up the Reynolds 853 Roubaix Pro).

The wheelsets on most 105 equiped bikes will be good enough to get you started. Plus you should be able to ride the bikes assembled at the LBS, thus find out how well they fit before you buy. Most LBSs are happy to swap out stems and cassettes for free or little changeover charge - you may even be able to get them to give you store credit on the original wheels if you want to upgrade them.

I'd buy the complete bike, and keep the cash you save to put towards a better wheelset later on.

I suddenly had a thought today.

I have an old steel road bike in the back of the garage somewhere. It is a 1992 Avanti Ultra. The rear wheel has splits and cracks all through it, and the drive-train is completely worn out.

Would it be worth re-building this bike with the triple groupset? Would it still be reliable at 12 years of age?

First of I will check if it is the correct size for me, and take things from there.

What are your guys thoughts on it?

It depends on the dropout spacing. Assuming you want to be able to use current parts, you want to make sure it has a 130mm (I think) spacing between the dropouts. This is the width of current road hubs.

Hi,
I think Gunnar is one of the best values in a steel frame. 105 or Ultegra both offer a lot of bang for the buck. Ultegra shifters and make the rest 105 is a nice way to save a few bucks. Mavic Open Pro rims on Ultegra hubs is a popular choice, and not terribly expensive. When I put my wife's bike together last year, those were the wheels I used. Do try and give a Gunnar a test ride.

Hi,
Do try and give a Gunnar a test ride.

Ok, what is a Gunnar? All I want to really know is would a 12 year old steel frame still be reliable? And would everything else aswell as the wheels fit correctly? (brakes, BB etc....)

You may need to spread the rear triangle to accommodate the new 9spd gear...it used to have 7spd.

Brendon

Ahhh,
you can use the link below to find Gunnar. Updating a used bike can be surprisingly expensive. It's like trying to build a car from the parts department.
Here's my take..... I think getting a good used bike could be your best choice. But you will have to look until you find a bike that fits, is still in good shape, and is good enough to do the job. I'd put on new tires, handlebars and a saddle. Bar end shifters would also be a nice touch. But ask a LBS how much that will cost; and you will find you may have already doubled the cost.
So......to answer your question.....sure, a 12 year old frame in good shape will be reliable. It will be quite expensive to update. Make sure you get cost estimates before committing yourself. And since you will be doing endurance rides get good tires.


http://www.gunnarbikes.com/data/mainframe.htm