Yeah, I am getting rid of the gyro. I want a straight cable. running though the fork. I want the gyro set gnone, as you can see in the pictures below guys the gyro is going to be a ghost. Should I get this part: http://www.danscomp.com/309085.php?cat=PARTS o replace the gyro set. Is there apart set for straight cables? I don't want the old brake holes sticking out.


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3152/2439457179_a5a6a34358_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2329/2439440651_02a7cc2716_b.jpg

Thanks for you help guys

DO NOT buy the part! It is bearing set and you don't need that. You might have thought they were spacers, which is what you MIGHT need. Okay, here is how you do it. First, remove the brake cables from their holes in the gyro assembly by unscrewing the cable screws, releasing the ends from the gyro, and pulling the cables through. Remove the bolts from the side of the stem in the back. Next, remove the top bolt and pull of the stem (and of course the handlebars that are still attached). Now pull off any spacers including the gyro plate for the top cables and the gyro itself; keep the spacers in the order you took them off. Next, take out the forks. So, now you have just the bearings in the headtube. Use a flat screwdriver and hammer to CAREFULLY knock out the TOP bearing cup (hit it in a pattern to knock it out evenly). Now, take off the gyro part for the bottom cables (it say oryg on it). Now use a block of wood and hammer to gently knock the top bearing cup in. Then, place the forks back in and place the washers back on EXCLUDING the gyro plate and the gyro itself. Now this is where you find out if you need a new part. When you place the stem back on, if the top bolt does not meet the stem, you need a spacer to fill in the area that the top gyro plate was in. If it stiil meets the stem, you don't need anything but the straight cable. then align your wheel with the handlebars and tighten the side bolts. Hope this helped.

"keep the spacers in the order you took them off."

I actually took everything apart several days ago. it's all in a bad mess in a glad bag. It's all good though, you simplified it a GREAT DEAL, thanks man. I'll figure out the order for it.
I sent my frame and fork into the shop to get sand blasted only. I am gunna paint it flat black with RustOlium, I am debating if I should use primer or not though. The paint is really tough.

I Rust-O-Liumed my Schwinn and it is wearing right off, so I would get the primer. By the way, I sent you a PM saying I was sorry for being long-winded, so I'm glad you understood my post.

Yeah your probably right, I got grey primer though. Should I have gotton black primer? Does it made when it comes to primer?

Nah. The black should cover it. It's important when painting colors and whites.

Ok cool thanks,

http://allgreatdealsshopping.com/images/jesus%20loves%20you.jpg

Nice pic.

"keep the spacers in the order you took them off."

I actually took everything apart several days ago. it's all in a bad mess in a glad bag. It's all good though, you simplified it a GREAT DEAL, thanks man. I'll figure out the order for it.
I sent my frame and fork into the shop to get sand blasted only. I am gunna paint it flat black with RustOlium, I am debating if I should use primer or not though. The paint is really tough.

Im quite new here but i want to make some painting suggestions. i do alot of work on cars and when it comes to painting you have to do it right. get a good high temp primer.. and use flat black rustolium BBQ paint $5 a can... it will take a beating. i paint plenty of engine bays with it works wonders. always primer or at least scuff with a red scuff pad... here is the color i think im painting the back up bike im building. it turned out great on my old car. also make sure the bike is clean of all oil from parts and your hands. brakeparts cleaner will work well. Hope this helps.

My bikes next color:

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/blindfoldedhope/DSCF0881.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/blindfoldedhope/DSCF0911.jpg


High temp flat black:
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/blindfoldedhope/DSCF1191.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/blindfoldedhope/DSCF1196.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/blindfoldedhope/DSCF1197.jpg

Does that purple come in a can?

Does that purple come in a can?

yup its a rattle can not powder coated... most people think it is... its easy to do 3 step process... primer,metallic base, metallic clear top

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/blindfoldedhope/DSCF0880.jpg

this is the metallic base.

Pre paint:
http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/blindfoldedhope/?action=view&current=DSCF0840.jpg

Sweet. Thanks!

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/metalcast.html


link... the orange and the purple turn out great.

and if your bike is already chrome... its only one step


OH ALWAYS USE A GOOD CLEAR COAT UNLESS GOING FLAT!!

I am actually going to go with flat black, then add some vietnam era stencils to it.

make sure you do a good prep.

I saw some krylon RUST TOUGH spray paints and some of rustolimum spray paint that said "No primer needed" "Direct to metal"
I am lazy, I admit. A massive couch potato. Think it be safe without primer in these cases? There both auto paints as well.

they are both probably just like the bbq paint. the headers in the picture were direct to metal i didnt primer them at all they came out good.

make sure you at least clean it well b4 painting.

Yeah thanks man, I'm probably just gunna give it a fast coat of primer then go over. Should I lightly sand the primer? I'm only putting one coat of primer on there.

Yeah thanks man, I'm probably just gunna give it a fast coat of primer then go over. Should I lightly sand the primer? I'm only putting one coat of primer on there.

just scuff it up a little bit with a scuff pad or very fine sandpaper... 1000gritt maybe