Bicycle Mechanics - JP Weigle Frame Saver alternatives

I can't get JP Weigle shipped to Italy, it's aerosol - Duh!

Well, I need an alternative, I've been checking local cycling shops, but no luck. The language barrier is tough, so explaining what I need is troublesome. (I know, I'm learning Italian, little by little, but it's tough)

I'd like to know what alternatives I could use to protect my steel frames. I've got a Casseroll, a Niner, and a Raleigh One-way that I'd like to last a lifetime.

Thanks!

Is that stuff even really necessary?

There is another very similar (identical?) metal protectant made by Amsoil called HDMP but it's also an aerosol and probably can't be shipped to you either. Here in the US it's sold by automobile, motorcycle (as a chain lube) and marine stores so you might find it it Italy at one of those places.

Otherwise, some have reported good using boiled Linseed Oil coated in the inside of frame tubes but it's very slow to dry and rather messy. It's available at most paint stores.

There are many "rust inhibitor" products for cars and boats.

I use Boeshield T9. Have a big bottle from the days when I used it on the chain before ProLink. The nice thing about it is that it is readily available (at least in the US) in boating shops as both a rust inhibitor and lubricant, does a great job as squeak stopper on my look pedals, and doesn't cost much.

Otherwise, some have reported good using boiled Linseed Oil coated in the inside of frame tubes but it's very slow to dry and rather messy. It's available at most paint stores.

Yup yup. Boiled linseed oil is my frame prep of choice. It smells nice and is nontoxic (linseed=flaxseed, a healthy seed full of Omega-3 fatty acids), plus it's probably available in Italy.

One important thing is that the oil dries and hardens oxidatively and releases heat doing so. If you left rags soaked in linseed oil in a crumpled-up state, the heat could actually cause the rags to set themselves on fire spontaneously. Thus, clean-up is important: wash the rags, lay them flat to dry, or incinerate them.

The "boiled" thing is actually a semi-chemical treatment that helps the oil dry faster and harder (vs. slowly to a gummy residue). I have no idea how linseed oil would work if it weren't boiled.

The "boiled" thing is actually a semi-chemical treatment that helps the oil dry faster and harder (vs. slowly to a gummy residue). I have no idea how linseed oil would work if it weren't boiled.
"Raw" linseed oil will eventually dry (oxidize actually) but eventually can be a long time. Get the "boiled" version.

Even WD-40 does a good job of rust prevention. I use it to keep my drywall knives from rusting.

No, I won't do drywall work on your house.

Thanks, I'll start looking for boiled linseed oil in hardware stores too.

I don't think there's a lot of boating supply in my area of italy, but since I'll be in paint/hardware stores I'll look for other things. I'll have to look up how to say/read "rust prohibitive" in Italian!

Is that stuff even really necessary?

I've been told it is. The wall thickness of modern light steel bicycles is pretty thin.

Even WD-40 does a good job of rust prevention. I use it to keep my drywall knives from rusting.

No, I won't do drywall work on your house.

lol, I also use it on my pocket knives. But WD-40 will eventually dry out, and needs to be reapplied. :(

One important thing is that the oil dries and hardens oxidatively and releases heat doing so. If you left rags soaked in linseed oil in a crumpled-up state, the heat could actually cause the rags to set themselves on fire spontaneously. Thus, clean-up is important: wash the rags, lay them flat to dry, or incinerate them.

Here in Albuquerque a downtown club went up in flames because of precisely this reason. It can, and has, happened. Be careful.

http://www.alibi.com/index.php?story=22430&scn=music

I don't know anything about shipping aerosols but here's the UK distributor FWIW.www.framebuilding.com/index.html

Here in Albuquerque a downtown club went up in flames because of precisely this reason. It can, and has, happened. Be careful.

http://www.alibi.com/index.php?story=22430&scn=music
One or two rags won't do this. You need a large pile of rags to act as insulation so the center of the pile can get hot enough to ignite. Large compost heaps in a garden or in a barn can do the same thing. A small heap of grass won't since the heat escapes before the temperature can get high enough to cause problems.

I don't know if folks in the UK work on their own cars, but you can go to an autoparts store and buy rust inhibitor which looks and smells identical to the JP Weigle stuff.

I was told that Phil Wood is simply some 2 stroke engine oil. When I questioned that, the guy telling me (a sales rep who sold Phil Wood product) asked me if I thought Phil Wood had enough money to develop something like that on his own. Same goes for JP Weigle (he's a local framebuilder, or used to be, and I have nothing against him, and in fact I think he made great frames).

cdr

I don't know if folks in the UK work on their own cars, but you can go to an autoparts store and buy rust inhibitor which looks and smells identical to the JP Weigle stuff.
cdr
That's the Amsoil HDMP I mentioned above. As you say, Weigle isn't a chemist and Phil Wood doesn't have his own refinery.

That's the Amsoil HDMP I mentioned above. As you say, Weigle isn't a chemist and Phil Wood doesn't have his own refinery.

Go to a Ducati dealer and get some chain lube...That is probably one of the ingredients...

Check out the local high-end auto parts supply store. There is a British firm called Dinitrol and a German firm called Teroson which both make rust prevention sprays similar to FrameSaver/HDMP. Just make sure whatever you get is both thin enough to slosh around in the tubes, and will also set into a waxy film.

Phil Wood doesn't have his own refinery.

Were you my sales rep? Exact words he used...

cdr

When I lived in the UK there was a rustproofing for cars called Waxoyl that, IIRC, was similar to JP Weigle. Maybe they have an Italian distributor?

I'll look for these products!

I haven't seen any real auto parts stores like in the states. I'm not sure how much they're allowed to work on their own cars, I know it may sound silly. They can't modify their cars at all, only add aftermarket wheels, body parts, simple stuff.

Auto Parts store.- Fogging oil comes in an aersol can.

Linseed oil is what aircraft builders use to coat the inside of steel tubing.

...
I haven't seen any real auto parts stores like in the states. ... They can't modify their cars at all, only add aftermarket wheels, body parts, simple stuff.
Just because it isn't smog board legal doesn't mean that it doesn't happen (a lot!). There's quite a big "tuning" scene.

Linseed oil is what aircraft builders use to coat the inside of steel tubing.
Still or years in the past? I'm sure they have some much better rust inhibitors now days.

Auto Parts store.- Fogging oil comes in an aersol can.

i used sta-lube fogging spray that was readily available at my local auto parts store, though it was the only brand they carried. the stuff had no odor as apposed to wd-40 which has a strong odor.

Even WD-40 does a good job of rust prevention. I use it to keep my drywall knives from rusting.

No, I won't do drywall work on your house.

WD-40 was DESIGNED as a moisture barrier, and water displacer and then they found out that it works great as a lubricant, or "stuck fastener loosener upper",...I use it on anything I want to control corrosion on that I will be storing (motorcycle parts, bike parts, electrical parts)

just use the WD-40 (less is best here) inside the tubes and don't worry about it.

you'll need to re-apply the WD-40 after about 6 months or so.

on a more permanent scale, you could also use a rust converter (tannin based), these are available in liquid form (permatex) and spray can (sem)
or you can use this stuff:
www.por-15.com
they make many rust treatment/paints, but they all go on rather thick, so I'd be concerned about adding weight if you apply it too thickly (you can use XYLOL as thinner in any POR-15 paint product)

I'm SURE the italians have products like these available in their country, so ask (yes you REALLY need to learn italian: rosetta stone ROCKS!) and look (or search) in stores near the coast, I'm sure rust has found it's way into italy, and I'm sure you can find a comparable preventative there.

Still or years in the past? I'm sure they have some much better rust inhibitors now days.

There's a synthetic oil that can be used, but most builders still use linseed oil.

just use the WD-40 (less is best here) inside the tubes and don't worry about it.Much has been said about WD-40, pro and con. As a lubricant it's marginal (although better than nothing). In this case, it can't hurt until you find something better, like the rust inhibiting oil sprays found in most auto parts stores.

There are only two rules:

1. If it's supposed to move, but doesn't; use WD-40

2. If it's not supposed to move, but does; use duct tape.