Bicycle Mechanics - please don't let it be my hydraulics

I recently bought a second hand mountain bike. The brakes are hydraulic and amateur bled (if that’s how it's said).

I have been getting many problems.

I know no more than how to replace a bike inner tube and tyre.

Is it better to take it some where & pay a bomb to get it fixed or is there an online manual or something to help with identifying problems and fixing them.

I am hoping it's not the brakes that are the problem, but a loosening or tightening around the back cogs area.

If you willing to try and tackle some of the problems
I'd look for "The Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance" by Lennard Zinn.

I have the road bike version and it's awesome, full of good explanations and pictures! I'm more mechanically inclcined (in my opinion anyway) than some, but not nearly as inclined as others and the book is great.

PJBAZ

I recently bought a second hand mountain bike. The brakes are hydraulic and amateur bled (if that’s how it's said).

I have been getting many problems.

I know no more than how to replace a bike inner tube and tyre.

Is it better to take it some where & pay a bomb to get it fixed or is there an online manual or something to help with identifying problems and fixing them.

I am hoping it's not the brakes that are the problem, but a loosening or tightening around the back cogs area.


Lets see........what brakes are they???

'hydraulic and amateur bled'

A special bike liquid is poured in to a fill up point near the handle bars of the bike, until the volume required for the brakes to function appears to be filled.

Bike is rotated and wheel spun, whilst listening for rubbing. Rubbing heard but, when applied, brakes function.

Process repeated over and over, to eliminate rubbing, UNTIL 2AM!!!! By which time he gave up & left it at a slight rub.

Rubbing feels like it has increased. I also now have a squeak! + my hardest gear on the back cogs won't click in I am guessing this could be just a bolt adjustment, perhaps to allow the derailleur to move the chain out further???

I am a runner with a serious injury. Cycling is currently maintaining my sanity. If my bike brakes to, I think I will end up in a padded cell!

go for a serene gentle walk or whatever
I wouldn't want anyone even an enemy to end in a cell like you might think you will
good luck on getting sane
I would also want to take something for the pain if I were you if the injury gets to you
animals when caught in traps kind of freak out and dienot because of the pain but the reaction

Jac ob

A poor bleed job would result in a soft or squishy feel in the lever when the brakes are applied. If there is a "crisp" feel to the brake then there is no air in the system and the bleed was successfull... Unless one of the pistons was not fully depressed when the bleed was done which could lead to the rub. Or the caliper mount may need more or fewer shims. Or your rotor may be out of true. Can you tell if the rub is intermitant, i.e. only in one or two places when you spin the wheel; or is the rub constant, during most of the wheel's revolution?
An intermitant rub is most likely a rotor true problem and a constant rub due to caliper alignment or oil volume. If you don't feel comfortable making the diagnosis or attempting repair, take it to a professional as it will be cheaper in the long run.

As for the shifting problem, it could be the limit screw but it sounds more like a cable tension issue, try backing out the rear barrel adjuster one half to two full turns and see if that clears it up, if that doesn't do it then chek your limits.

'hydraulic and amateur bled'

A special bike liquid is poured in to a fill up point near the handle bars of the bike, until the volume required for the brakes to function appears to be filled.

Bike is rotated and wheel spun, whilst listening for rubbing. Rubbing heard but, when applied, brakes function.

Process repeated over and over, to eliminate rubbing, UNTIL 2AM!!!! By which time he gave up & left it at a slight rub.


"Hydraulic and amateur bled" dosent tell us anything about the COMPANY THAT MADE THEM OR THE MODEL NAME. Assuming they are disc brakes, one you bleed them and they work but rub, all you have to do is re position the caliper to make the pads stop rubbing. Possibly push the pistons back in their bores if they are sticking out at all before you apply pressure.