Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Spray Paint: any good way to make it durable? (harden up)

So I have a spare frame that I spray painted, and I am trying to figure out how to make the paint a little more durable.

I used painters touch paint(i like their color selection)

I have only painted the fork so far--

so far it has sat for a day, I left it outside to dry in the morning sun, I used a heat gun on it twice-

will letting it sit for a week harden it up?

I thought about using an oven to bake the paint, but i really could only do the fork, not the frame-


anyone have any suggestions, experience with this?

clearcoat over it

yes, but either way the paint is soft, has anyone sucessfully painted a bike with good results with durability-

how long did you wait until you reassembled everything?

I've painted a couple frames with absolutely no problems. It sounds like you used coats that were too thick. When I painted mine, I stripped the old paint off, cleaned the metal well, then primed it. When I was doing the primer coat I would spray a very light coat on, let it dry a little bit, then hit it again, probably did this 3-4 times until it was a nice even coat. I can't remember if I sanded after that, but probably not it's just a beater. After the primer cured for 24+ hours I did the same light coat application with whatever color I was using. Cured the full time, then did very very light coats of clear coat. It will look bumpy, but it will eventually fill in and cure to a nice smooth surface. Just my experiences, though. If anybody actually knows what they're doing, you may find I am way off base.

I did the exact same procedure, how hard is it? does it scratch easy?

even if you do a perfect spray paint job, its still gonig to be softer than a powdercoat-

I want to know how you can make the paint hard, so it wont scratch with the touch of a fingernail?

s

I did the exact same procedure, how hard is it? does it scratch easy?

even if you do a perfect spray paint job, its still gonig to be softer than a powdercoat-

I want to know how you can make the paint hard, so it wont scratch with the touch of a fingernail?

s

Spraypaint stays soft for like a month. You just gotta be patient.

Prime it. Paint it. Coat it. Its the best you'll get with a garage rattle can project.

I'll be doing mine in the next couple weeks. I'll point out my progress.

I used bar-b-q paint. Pretty sturdy thick stuff.

anyone ever try krylon fusion on metal? i know it's good for plastic but is it okay on bikes? so i can skip the primer part

the key to a strong finish, is a strong base. sand as much old stuff as possible, clean with acetone/solvents, dry with a lent free cloth, spray on a few coats of primer, sand, spray bascoat, sand, spray another coat, sand, spray final coat, wait to dry, then spray on the clearcoat.

following those steps will give you a really durable finish, and it will look great too.

the key to a strong finish, is a strong base. sand as much old stuff as possible, clean with acetone/solvents, dry with a lent free cloth, spray on a few coats of primer, sand, spray bascoat, sand, spray another coat, sand, spray final coat, wait to dry, then spray on the clearcoat.

following those steps will give you a really durable finish, and it will look great too.

It's Agnostic... Sorry, I just couldn't resist!

I really haven't had paint be soft for very long. I think you may have not gotten coats on within the recoat time period (usually within the hour). Unless you coat within that hour, you should wait 24 hours, usually. It says on the can. I've done that, and it's always worked dandy for me. I have had the soft paint phenom happen on model cars before, though. It usually happened because my coats were too thick, or I didn't time them correctly. I think you're basically stuck with a soft paint job until it cures, unless you strip it and try again.

thanks for the advice-

i was quick with going from primer to base to clear-

i assume once i prep the frame and paint it- the fork should be hard.

thanks for the advice-

i was quick with going from primer to base to clear-

i assume once i prep the frame and paint it- the fork should be hard.

Primer to base to clear quickly will result in a strong bond but you've got a lot of solvent in there that needs to evaporate. I've had success with cars and motorbikes by creating a greenhouse for them. Black plastic on the ground, tent of clear plastic. Took a paint job that should have waited a month down to about a week and a half In the Denver summertime sun.

Should be easy to do this with a bicycle.

Once you can't dent it with your fingernail you can start to assemble with some confidence. I still wouldn't ride it until it's HARD.

using cheap spray paint (like painters touch, or dupli-clor), and shooting too many un-needed coats will get you a soft easily damaged paint job.

shoot just enough coats to hide whats underneath, and so the color is even, THEN STOP SHOOTING,.....just because you have half a can left, doesn't mean you need to put all of it on your bike frame.

you might also try using better quality spray paints, like what you find at autobody supply shops, and online (google "custom spray cans"), rather than at home depot, or auto zone.

try either of these for a DURABLE clearcoat:

http://www.levineautoparts.com/upclear1uvre.html

or

http://www.ketone.com/proddetail.php?prod=AM2100&PHPSESSID=851eadd12fdac9d4080e6d7c5dcf72cf

the first one is a moisture activated clear that can be sanded and polished in a week or so, and the second one is REAL URETHANE clearcoat in a special one use can.

you NEED TO SHOOT A TEST PANEL BEFORE USING EITHER OF THESE CLEARCOATS,....or you might get wrinkling, or bubbling or other weirdness, by shooting this type of clear over incompatible color coats (like painters touch for example)

in spray can painting, when you buy $4 a can paint, thats what you get, and when you buy $20 and $40 a can paint, you should expect, (and will get) better results,....BUT!! there is still a learning curve, so just getting good paint is only part of it, you still need to practice (on something thats NOT the bike), and take your time with the prep work.

peace, love and isocyanates :D

Spraypaint stays soft for like a month. You just gotta be patient.

Prime it. Paint it. Coat it. Its the best you'll get with a garage rattle can project.

I'll be doing mine in the next couple weeks. I'll point out my progress.

Exactly. Let that frame sit for a long, long time. Some folks even build a mini greenhouse and keep the frame in that out in the sun to bake the paint.

I've got a frame hanging in the garage that I primed, painted, waited a month, painted some more, waited two weeks, put another good coat on it, waited two weeks, clear coat, waited a couple of days, more clear coat, waited a week, more clear coat, waiting a couple more weeks to a month before adding anything to it. Weather is getting nice and warm here so the paint is hardening faster now.

Do a search for rattle can paint jobs here and in Classic and Vintage. Duplicolor from the auto store works quite well and there are some spray can paints you can order online that are even better but more expensive.

I'm sure the expensive paints are great. does anybody here actually use them? I've done a couple spray-jobs with the cheapest rustoleum you can find and have found that if you do it right, there's a good chance you wont notice much difference. Also, if it's super durability you're going for, use tractor paint. I used Case IH red on one my beater bike and an unsheathed chain banging against the top tube for a year did hardly any damage.

why do you guys insist on using absolute CRAP to paint your bikes with?
why would you wait TWO MONTHS (or longer) for paint to dry, when for $25 more you can assemble it the NEXT DAY!?!? (and it'll be hard as granite in 3 days)

I'm done trying to help you guys, this is absolutely pointless.


"if it was the rule that brought you to this, then what good was the rule?"
(Anton Chigur - no country for old men)

^
well the reason WHY I decided to paint one of my bikes this way is because its a cheap columbia from who knows when and needs lots of work to remove surface rust-

I think the idea of just spraying the bike frame just to get it covered and cleared and not over do the paint amount is a really good idea, the paint will probably harden faster

why do you guys insist on using absolute CRAP to paint your bikes with?
why would you wait TWO MONTHS (or longer) for paint to dry, when for $25 more you can assemble it the NEXT DAY!?!? (and it'll be hard as granite in 3 days)

I'm done trying to help you guys, this is absolutely pointless.


"if it was the rule that brought you to this, then what good was the rule?"
(Anton Chigur - no country for old men)

Seeing as it's not the fault of the crappy paint, but the method in which it was applied, I have no idea what you're talking about. And based off the clearcoat you posted, that would be 25$ more PER CAN. One can of primer, base and clear would cost more that what I paid for my bike, haha. You must be very good if you can do an entire bike with one can! I'm not.

Another point is that it must work well enough because it's still being sold. If something doesn't work for crap, it probably doesn't stand a chance of surviving in the economy. Like I said, I've had no problems with "crap" paint.

No country for old men sucked.

I used rustoleom or whatever and a satin clearcoat. Worked perfect. I did a new coat every 1hour for 3 hours. and let sit overnight. Very light coats however.

Take your time. Tell yourself it's gonna take a week, or two weeks, and really do a good job. Spray lots of really thin layers and let them dry COMPLETELY. The worst thing you can do is rush it. Also, lots of sanding, make sure to primer, and clearcoat after.

if you're looking for durability, strip it, then powder coat it. durrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

why do you guys insist on using absolute CRAP to paint your bikes with?
why would you wait TWO MONTHS (or longer) for paint to dry, when for $25 more you can assemble it the NEXT DAY!?!? (and it'll be hard as granite in 3 days)

I'm done trying to help you guys, this is absolutely pointless.


"if it was the rule that brought you to this, then what good was the rule?"
(Anton Chigur - no country for old men)


I am in no hurry with the white frame; as you can see, I've got a number of bike projects going on, including a Pinarello that's getting professionally painted.
http://gallery.mac.com/bbattle/100136/100_0975/web.jpg

A coating of Sildenafil citrate will usually achieve the hardening effect

If you're set on using rattle cans for paint (not that there's anything wrong with it... I've used them for decades and they've provided extremely durable finishes) then you're best off using a laquer. Enamels can work well but they need longer curing time to be durable.

The most important aspects in getting good results is preparation and technique. Use acetone to clean every inch of the frame. I don't even bother using a primer coat with rattle cans because I've yet to find a rattle can primer as tough and with as good adhesion characteristics as a good laquer. When spraying, apply the color lightly and evenly... enough for a wet coat but not to the point of being runny. If you go too light the coat will be "dry" and won't adhere well to the surface, it actually dries before getting the chance to bond properly. Make deliberate and even strokes making sure you start each stroke before you actually hit the frame with color... basically try to emulate the technique of the pros using a spray gun. Once a sufficient color coat has been put down, you can wait a few days and lay on the clearcoat(s) with a thorough wet sanding between coats using 1000-1600 grit sandpaper. Or if your technique is good a rubbing of denatured alcohol and 0000 steel wool will give enough tooth for the clear to bond well.

^^^ lol



You must be very good if you can do an entire bike with one can! I'm not.
Nah, just make really thin coats. One can = 2 coats per frame (on a couple bikes I've painted).

Seeing as it's not the fault of the crappy paint, but the method in which it was applied, I have no idea what you're talking about. And based off the clearcoat you posted, that would be 25$ more PER CAN. One can of primer, base and clear would cost more that what I paid for my bike, haha. You must be very good if you can do an entire bike with one can! I'm not.

Another point is that it must work well enough because it's still being sold. If something doesn't work for crap, it probably doesn't stand a chance of surviving in the economy. Like I said, I've had no problems with "crap" paint.

No country for old men sucked.

thats amazing,

1) I was not talking (typing) to you
2) $25 for a can of REAL CLEARCOAT is only SLIGHTLY expensive (PPG's LEAST expensive clearcoat= OMNI=$45@ quart
3)ALL of the "methods" you people wrote are ALL WRONG: too much sanding, too long before you can assemble, too much un-needed work and lacquer is 75 year old technology (do you use wooden rims too?)
4) yes the movie sucked, but THAT QUOTE, is perfect for this thread (but you are apparently too stupid to understand metaphors)
5) if all you spent on your fixed gear/SS bike was $75, then why even paint it?
6) you SHOULD be able to shoot TWO bikes with ONE CAN (you're applying too much paint, like I said before)

basically, I have typed no less than 15,000 words in this "forum" on how to paint a bicycle frame with everything from rattlecans, to glasurit's $175 a quart clearcoat, and even after all that you all insist on shooting your bicycles with paint designed for lawn furniture, or a barbeque.

you asked questions, I answered drawing from 40 YEARS of experience painting

and like I said, I'm through trying to help you all.

maybe when you guys win at pebble beach concours THREE TIMES, or are on a certain late night TV hosts "painters rolodex", then you can talk smack, until then, you can blow me.


buh bye.

... too much un-needed work and lacquer is 75 year old technology (do you use wooden rims too?)... I answered drawing from 40 YEARS of experience painting...

Wow, so much anger because your opinion isn't heeded? So what's wrong with painting a +100 year old vehicle design with 75 year old technology paint? Or are you just venting because you feel slighted? Maybe you need to go for a ride.

thats amazing,

1) I was not talking (typing) to you
2) $25 for a can of REAL CLEARCOAT is only SLIGHTLY expensive (PPG's LEAST expensive clearcoat= OMNI=$45@ quart
3)ALL of the "methods" you people wrote are ALL WRONG: too much sanding, too long before you can assemble, too much un-needed work and lacquer is 75 year old technology (do you use wooden rims too?)
4) yes the movie sucked, but THAT QUOTE, is perfect for this thread (but you are apparently too stupid to understand metaphors)
5) if all you spent on your fixed gear/SS bike was $75, then why even paint it?
6) you SHOULD be able to shoot TWO bikes with ONE CAN (you're applying too much paint, like I said before)

basically, I have typed no less than 15,000 words in this "forum" on how to paint a bicycle frame with everything from rattlecans, to glasurit's $175 a quart clearcoat, and even after all that you all insist on shooting your bicycles with paint designed for lawn furniture, or a barbeque.

you asked questions, I answered drawing from 40 YEARS of experience painting

and like I said, I'm through trying to help you all.

maybe when you guys win at pebble beach concours THREE TIMES, or are on a certain late night TV hosts "painters rolodex", then you can talk smack, until then, you can blow me.


buh bye.


Lighten up, Francis.

A coating of Sildenafil citrate will usually achieve the hardening effect

but only for a few hours