Mountain Biking - Trek 7000 - WHAT YEAR?!?!

Hi bike lovers,

Help me please. I just bought a Trek 7000 used for $200. What do you think? ok deal? Thing is i'm trying to find out the year of the bike. Here are the components.

Trek 7000 zx series
Rock shox Grey - Part # 4971344
System 1 hubs, stem, bar and bar end
STX set up - 21 speed with Grip shifts
Matrix rims
Bontrager saddle
Alivio cantilever brakes
Dia Compe brake levers

I'm thinking it's a 1996 or 1997. Anyone has a clue?? Thanks

Doesn't sound like a good deal to me.. I'm not sure.

Maybe the others will have a different opinion?

I have a 7000 and I paid around the same for a used one on eBay. GREAT bike. I woulda paid $300 for it if I had to. It's got almost $1k invested into it now, including new wheels and a complete drivetrain swap. It keeps beggin for more. Very versatile machine.

As for the year, that setup came in a few years. I think pics are in order. :D

A picture would definately help.

Also, what is the serial number? The year is usually one of the sets of numbers. Post it, and we should be able to decipher it for you.

L8R

Here are some pics. Maybe this can help. Thanks for taking the time.

Hope this link work
<A HREF="http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4288435341"><IMG SRC="http://www.imagestation.com/images/is/community/this_album_button.gif" BORDER="0"></A>

Also where do i find the serial number?

Here are some pics. Maybe this can help. Thanks for taking the time.

Hope this link work

www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4288435341

Also where do i find the serial number?

Also where do i find the serial number?
try checking under the bottom of the bottombracket shell, or under one of the chainstays.

probably '96

'96 is probably close, could be as old as '94.

Serial numbers are usually on the bottom of the bottom bracket shell. If your shifter cables are run down the down tube and under the bottom bracket, there may be a cable guide in the way. Shift into the big/big combo of gears. Then w/o pedaling, shift to small/small. This will provide slack in the shifter cables. Then you'll be able to move the cable guide out of the way and look for the serial #'s.

L8R

Thanks for your help. The serial number is a little unclear, but i did email trek and they did suggest it was a 96. Anyway, i'm in the process of re-building my bike. Guess it doesn't matter, does it.

Hey ur bike and mine are twins. :)

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid81/pcc83f9003dff2d41455aa7e87ab35ffe/fb010a80.jpg

The only problem I've really encountered as far as parts availability is the seat tube neck, where the seat post clamp goes on. It's only compatible with 33 mm clamps, and today's clamps only come in 32 mm and 35 mm sizes. I've had my bike for about 9 months now and I've put more than 2500 miles on it.

Dude, that's great! :D I just got this bike last month. I like the frame a lot, it's stiff and there's lots of speed and it fits me! But some of the parts are quite old and heavy and i'm trying to change that slowly. What parts did you change first?

How do i attach a picture here?

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid91/p55b59bb427cb1e703a28106d06a6d3ed/fa5e0b7d.jpg.orig.jpg

hmm lemme think ...

I had the stem changed to a longer one, then I put in some Shimano RapidFire shifters to fit the 8-speed cassette, replaced both derailleurs (the front one was flakey), got new wheels with XT hubs, new pedals, new chain, and a few other things I can't remember.

It came with a very nice saddle and fork so I didn't have to touch those. It also came with a nice Avid brakeset. However, I came across the seat clamp problem when I was shopping for a new seat post. I can't find a 33mm clamp.

The saddle u got on there looks nice tho. ;)

So far, I've gotten a thomson seat post, selle italia slr saddle, a ritchey pro bar, and a control stem which i fixed inverted. Trying to lose some weight. I have a khs comp that's about 23 pounds. Yeah, i'm trying to find the seat clamp too, sheesh..... i'll definitely let you know when i see one.

Still the bike is still heavy for my taste, need to change the crank, brakes and wheel set.

i'd get new brakes right away. i can't stand cantilevers!

Yeah, i can't remember the last time i used cantilevers. I'm saving up for a pair of avid ti. When you're on a low budget, it's a little bit harder. So i'm planning these upgrades not in order of need.

Brakes : Avid ti set
Crank : Race face Next Lp or Trivativ stylo team ( any rec for BB )
Derailleurs : XT
Wheelset : XT with Bontrager Valiant ( any rec for spokes )
Shocks : Judy TT + Total Air
And other misc stuff, skewers, seat collar, etc

I'd get the new XTR or XT cranks with the integrated BB in place of the RF cranks, mostly for the weight issue. I've seen the XTR construction and it makes a lot of sense.

BTW, what kind of rim is that? Is it an aero rim or just another XC rim?

Oh, and for the fork I'd go with a Rock Shox SID World Cup or keep the one that you have. The Judy is heavier than the Indy that comes stock (that's the Indy u have right?).

I think my shox are quadra 5, i could be wrong. I'm not sure how to check. I'm basing that this shox has never been changed from 1996.. sheesh... :eek:

I think the RF crank is lighter than XT and XTR, i could be wrong too.

Bontrager valiants are cheaper than mavic and lighter. Plus i'm not too heavy at 150lbs so i don't think i need too strong a rim.

Lastly, I was considering getting the SID but it's too bloody expensive. I think the Total air cartridge will reduce the weight of the Judy TT to about 3lbs i think according to what many people say. So that's not too bad, considering the SID is about 2.5 - 2.7LBS. I'm getting my Judy for $40, so no complains.

yeah judyTT plus total airs would be my pick also as a SID alternative. reason being that the SID is known to be flexy under load, but the judyTT i've read is much stiffer. i rode the sid and i don't notice it flexing because i didn't get a chance to abuse it, but i rode the TT under moderate abuse and it felt solid. shaving a lb off the TT to get it to near SID wt while keeping the TT stiffness would be awesome, and also wallet-friendly.

The reason why I mentioned the SID is for its lockout function. I don't think the TT has that function. I often found that the lockout is a very desired feature, while climbing off road or just accelerating on the road.