Fifty Plus (50+) - Another Dirt/Road project

MaddMaxx has his Dormouse (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?p=6620626) project making a roadworthy/dirtworthy bike from a 26" wheel MTB, and here is mine. I'm going with my favorite Frankenbike conversion vehicle, Lugnut, my '92 Trek 970 lugged steel fully rigid 26" wheel MTB.

I'm still assembling parts and trying options, but it is starting to take shape. I'm using a mix of parts selected for function and economy. Some of this stuff is really low end, but good quality. No bling. Parts so far:

Frame: 1992 Trek 970 - True Temper OX Comp II dbl butted chromoly tubing (made in USA)
Fork: Tange Big Fork - Triple butted chromoly - not suspension corrected (OEM)
Wheels: Sun Rhyno Lite rims, Shimano LX 32 hole non-disk hubs, 14g SS spokes
Tires: Performance Forte FasTrac 26X1.9 smooth center MTB tires - folding bead
F.Der.: Shimano Deore (recent model)
R. Der.: Shimano Deore (recent model)
Crankset: Shimano Alivio 22/32/44 square taper ($10 Nashbar closeout) Nashbar BB
Pedals: Crank Bros. Smarty
Cassette: Shimano 8 speed, 11-28
Chain: KMC 7/8 speed
Shifters: Schwinn labeled Suntour ratcheting friction bar ends (to be snagged from Uncle Duke)
Stem: Nashbar comfort 1-1/8
Handlebar: Origin-8 Gary Bar - MTB drop bar
Brake levers: Tektro RL520 road brake levers for linear pull brakes (ordered)
Brakes: Tektro linear pull (like V-brakes)
Seat post: Kalloy
Saddle: Brooks Flyer
Rear rack: Blackburn Mtn Rack

Can't wait to get all the parts and time to put it together and dial it in. I did pedal it around the yard with no shifters or brake levers, and the bars felt good.

Most recent configuration:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/Lugnut/th_reborn1.jpg (http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/Lugnut/reborn1.jpg)

The new setup so far:
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/Lugnut/th_iswastires1.jpg (http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/Lugnut/iswastires1.jpg)http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/Lugnut/th_iswastires2.jpg (http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/Lugnut/iswastires2.jpg)http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/Lugnut/th_preview1.jpg (http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/Lugnut/preview1.jpg)http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/Lugnut/th_preview2.jpg (http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/Lugnut/preview2.jpg)http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/Lugnut/th_preview3.jpg (http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/Lugnut/preview3.jpg)http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/Lugnut/th_preview4.jpg (http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/Lugnut/preview4.jpg)http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/Lugnut/th_preview5.jpg (http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/Lugnut/preview5.jpg)

That's going to look good. Dormouse has been stuck in "dirt mode" for some time (and I like it a lot that way) cause I got side tracked and stole some of the project parts for White Rabbit IV (yes IV.......I know........I know........but this aero bike thing is hard) On the other hand, the Rabbit has given up some parts that will be going to Dormouse. I think I'm just brake levers (Jenson couldn't diliver mine as there appears to have been a run on them) and a Shimano rear derailleur away from having enough parts.

What's the bar diameter on that bar (not the clamp, but the equipment area?)

I think I'm just brake levers (Jenson couldn't diliver mine as there appears to have been a run on them) and a Shimano rear derailleur away from having enough parts.

What's the bar diameter on that bar (not the clamp, but the equipment area?)


My LBS ran into the same problem on the brake levers. Looks like QBP has them in stock again, so they should be on their way soon.

The bar is sized for road components, not MTB. Can't recall what that diameter is at the moment.

I think this is going to be a fun bike. This is a sweet handling frame. I enjoyed it in MTB mode, but it needs some kind of twist to keep it in the ride rotation since the FSR came into the mix. I think it may become my "go to" bike for casual rides and occasional MTB rides in specific situations.

Road equipment mounts on a 24mm bar area, MTB on something less.

I think you've hit the design requirements on the head.......................something less than an all out MTB dirt machine................or a general purpose "go to" bike.

Its weird how you and I have come to a similar but different design from such different frame starting points.

As Lugnut is a steel Trek 970 ... was it made in Wisconsin? If it says Made in the USA on it, then it was.

As Lugnut is a steel Trek 970 ... was it made in Wisconsin? If it says Made in the USA on it, then it was.

Yep, made in USA.

cheesehead...................................

recycle beercans.:P

Recycle aluminimum bike frames to make beer cans.:beer:

From your list of equipment, it looks like this is going to be a highly functional ride. I'm curious about your impressions of what I consider to be quick handling with this frame and your intended use. One thing that surprised me on my recent 950 restoration is how tight and quick the bike handles.

Yes, I agree that the Trek 900 series frames were definitely not of the old slack steering type, but more in line with the quicker handling designs that Bridgestone and others adopted. (Come to think of it, it is turning out to be very similar in setup to a '87 MB-1. :))

I have ridden this frame quite a bit both on road and off with normal MTB riser bars and with Nitto Moustache bars. I like the quick steering in both arenas. It is not squirrely, just responsive. It will hold a line in a hard turn but will not get upset if I decide to change the line mid-turn. I bought this frame mostly because it was lugged steel construction, but it is the handling that has made it a keeper.

And now the project is complete, tested and named. Meet Kemo Sabe, shown here with its faithful sidekick preparing for the battle ahead.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d195/GonzoDawg/bicycles/Lugnut/Kemo.jpg

Looks good!
I'm planning on doing the same with a 92' Specialized Hardrock I bought for my wife way back when.

Now, that is nice. BD, you have beaten me to the completion of this project by a wide margin. Dormouse will not be completed untill late fall if not over the winter.

This is a prime example of a general purpose bicycle that started as a mountain frame instead of a hybred or roadbike frame. At the present elevated prices of everything road, this is a good budget build and a good bicycle for all road (and not so road) surfaces. I look forward to more like this and a comparison with dormouse later this year.

Suitable name too you rascal.

It looks nice! Like the moustache bars.

Now would you leave that Trek alone for a while and let it get to know its own identity!

Cool deal, BD. A bike for anything. I've been thinking about a steel hardtail build with the pile of parts left over from breaking the frame on my old mtb, but I would put the short travel fork on it. Nashbar has an 853 frame for under $300, know anything about them?

Cool deal, BD. A bike for anything. I've been thinking about a steel hardtail build with the pile of parts left over from breaking the frame on my old mtb, but I would put the short travel fork on it. Nashbar has an 853 frame for under $300, know anything about them?

I've read a lot of good reports about that frame. Enough that I'm sure I would have one if it came in a color other than arnge. :notamused:

I think a suspension fork would make the bike much more dirt oriented than what I built. This thing corners like a road bike.

It looks nice! Like the moustache bars.

Now would you leave that Trek alone for a while and let it get to know its own identity!

Not moustache bars, dirt drop bars (Origin-8 Gary). Similar, but these give much better control for offroad work. I did have moustache bars on this frame when I first built it up as "Snidely Whiplash".

Tell you what. I'll stop reconfiguring this frame if you'll stop giving people advice about road bikes. :roflmao2:

Cool deal, BD. A bike for anything. I've been thinking about a steel hardtail build with the pile of parts left over from breaking the frame on my old mtb, but I would put the short travel fork on it. Nashbar has an 853 frame for under $300, know anything about them?

I looked into that frame a few months ago and did some research on it. I only found a few reviews, but they were positive. I came away thinking that it was a good value.

Also considered frames from Salsa, which offered a lot of quality for the dollar.

I looked into that frame a few months ago and did some research on it. I only found a few reviews, but they were positive. I came away thinking that it was a good value.

Also considered frames from Salsa, which offered a lot of quality for the dollar.

Thanks! I was wondering if it's the same frame as the steel Motobecane sold by BikesDirect?

Thanks! I was wondering if it's the same frame as the steel Motobecane sold by BikesDirect?

BD sells a steel Motobecane MTB frame? Link?

And now the project is complete, tested and named. Meet Kemo Sabe, shown here with its faithful sidekick preparing for the battle ahead.

Cool! I love doing projects like that. The only bad thing is that, when you get it just right, you don't feel like you can take it apart and reconfigure it some other way.

Oh, BD can take it apart and reconfigure it. Believe me on that!

I read a couple of posts that suggested the Nashbar frame was similar to the Rocky Mountain Blizzard frame, but there was no confirmation of that.

http://www.silverfish-uk.com/products/558-2008_rocky_mountain_blizzard_frameset.php?r=

I read a couple of posts that suggested the Nashbar frame was similar to the Rocky Mountain Blizzard frame, but there was no confirmation of that.

Somehow it never seemed right to me to start with a brand new frame for any of my project bikes. I've always started with something that I already had around the house or rescued at a garage sale or something like that.

Anybody got a 40 hole Sturney Archer hub?

BD sells a steel Motobecane MTB frame? Link?

http://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.php?p=6628767&postcount=83

After finding this and re-reading it, the bike might not be for sale yet. Looks pretty good, though.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=413679&highlight=ti+motobecane+fly&page=4

Pcad has the Ti version one?!

I saw a Ti bike on their web page, but didn't see a steel frame.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fly_TI_09.htm

Yes, and he seems to love it. Mike from Bikes Direct posted that gorgeous blue steel bike, but he said he was trying to find out if people would want to buy it.

Salsa offers a nice deal on a steel mountain bike. They have a complete build using their Salsa Ala Carte True Temper OX frame with cro-moly fork, X.9 components, Avid BB7 disc brakes, and XT wheel hubs for $1470.

http://www.salsacycles.com/alacarteComp08.html

Here is an interesting steel frameset for very large tires from Surly.

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/FR409A05-Surly+Pugsley+Frameset.aspx

Let's not turn a thread about piecing together a bike from an old frame, a bunch of existing parts and under $100 of new parts into a new bike shopping thread. Not having to buy all that new stuff is a fundamental element in the concept of the Kemo Sabe project.

I didn't mean to kill the thread. :innocent:

I like those bars so much I'm willing to take a chance on the On One Midge. Looks like its the same bar?

I like those bars so much I'm willing to take a chance on the On One Midge. Looks like its the same bar?

Very similar, not quite the same. The Midge has a little more flat top area before the bends. The first bend is sharper, so the drops are a little lower and the front of the drops has less flare.

Oh, and the Origin-8 bars go for about $25 while the On One bars go for about $55.

http://g-tedproductions.blogspot.com/2007/10/origin-8-gary-bar-update.html

http://g-tedproductions.blogspot.com/2007/03/origin-8-gary-bar-update.html

I will have to mull this over for a while. Dormouse will spend about half its time on pavement and I need to get a feel (pun) for what the hoods position will feel like on the Gary or the Midge. I've read a couple of nice reviews that do a direct comparison so its a matter of deciding what the character will be like. Still in the running behind door C is a Ritchey biomax.

This boils down to the difference between Kemo Sabbe and Dormouse.

1. Steel vs aluminium
2. Disc vs Rim
3. Dormouse is slightly lower in the bar area. (more closely matched to the White Rabbit)
4. I want the "character" of the bike to be similar to its road sablemate but with off road capabilities. (this is probably aimed at a little more roadie/less dirty than your design.)

Hard to say how the bars will work for you. The Midge will place the levers in a slightly more vertical position than the Gary. I don't find that to be a problem at all. On the hoods is a very comfortable position on Kemo Sabe. It is not as horizontal as a Nitto Moustache bar, which I also found comfortable.

The most immediately noticeable thing about the drop position is that it is much wider than with normal road drops. The idea with dirt drops is to place your hands in the same place they would be with a flat bar, but with the wrists rotated to a more natural angle. It takes a higher stem to accomplish this.