O.k, so I finished mine, and I wanted to share. Results were good. The headlight is as bright as my car's, and ditto the tail light. They have earned me a little respect on the road, even the occasional high-beam flash! (I respond with a wheelie, of course) Headlight is rated 684 lumens. No rating known on the tail light, but the visibility is high, and that's the point.
For the headlight, I used 3 of these:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11621
All other parts can be had at Lowe's and Radio Shack.
I housed the drop-ins in 3- 1" copper couplings. 3/4" cpvc pipe insulates them from the copper-perfect fit. I soldered auto wire from the drop-ins to 2 battery holders, which hold 8-AA's(4 each) in series. NIMH, 2500 mah energizers, and a cheapo 15-minute charger--headlight runs about 2 hours, but dims a bit in the last 15-20 min. I cut lexan to size with a 1+1/4 hole saw to plug the front-perfect fit again-lucky, and filled the back with silicone. Soldered pennies between the couplings to spread the beams and hold everything together.
For the tail light, I found a super bright LED at Lowe's, item #248852. It is made for a trailer, but I was able to remove the magnets and mount it to the rack in back. It was only $16, runs on 4-AA's for about 40 hours, and provides awesome visibility. It is made water-tight. It also looks like it was made for the bike, unlike my version of the headlight. I recommend this tail light over anything I have seen at a bike shop, unless you get uptight about a few extra grams on your race bike.
The headlight might not be for everyone. It is crude but very effective. But I achieved my goal of matching the Arc Li-ion light, which retails for $500, for a lot less.
$37-drop-ins
$19-batteries
$19-charger
$@25-the rest----total @$100--($120 with the tail light)
Jesper64
05-21-08, 10:12 PM
Any pics mate?
teacherbill
05-22-08, 06:44 AM
I also found the "big blinkie" at Lowes. It works great. I like your idea of the headlight. I currently use a multi-celled mag light. It is a bit heavy but has a controllable beam and suits the purpose. In the future I may add another mag light to keep symmetry.
Bill
johnthemeasurer
05-23-08, 07:52 AM
Thanks much, CB, especially your discription of the housing. I've been thinking (dreaming) about using that drop in but wondered what to use.
n4zou
05-23-08, 12:41 PM
I used an outdoor electrical outlet and cover to house the two high power LED's and Fraen optics. One is a 15X30 elliptical and the other is a 10 degree narrow beam. I operate it from a dynamo so no batteries are required. This requires a bridge rectifier made up of 4 1N5818 diodes. I added a 1,000uF capacitor to eliminate low speed flashing. It's brighter than a 20-watt MR-16 halogen light. Here are pictures.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r154/n4zou/HPIM0395.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r154/n4zou/light4.jpg
Note the copper straps to shunt heat to the aluminum housing.
chewybrian
05-23-08, 02:03 PM
To Jesper, no I don't have pic--not much of a techie. I hope my description can draw you a good mental pic.
To Bill, I know you can testify to the effectiveness of that tail light from Lowe's. It just dwarfs my Blackburn in size and visibility. I haven't seen a more visible bike tail. $16 is not too much to be seen. If YOU know how to post a pic, you should show the people. This tail light is good safety equip for anyone riding at night; I am sure someone out there would be convinced and benefit if they saw the photo.
To John, I am glad if anyone gets any inspiration from my method for the head light. If I can piece something together from the drop-ins, I think anyone can. They have their own drivers, and they are well made and very bright. My version is a bit clumsy looking, but sturdy and effective, and really quite simple to make. I think the drop-ins are a good place to start, whatever you use to mount them. The only draw-back might be the tight spot angle. I am guessing they are about 8 to 10 degree spots. You get a lot of spill out light on the sides anyway, but it would be useful if, say, 1 of the 3 had a flood angle, like 30 degrees. Anyway, I am satisfied with the light in the current form. I might build a brighter one just for fun, though.
jsharr
05-23-08, 02:05 PM
chewybrian, if you have pics, email them to me and I will post them for you.
wakhoma
05-28-08, 02:04 AM
With 01 K2 led, could you suggest me how to build circuit for this. Thanks
netbug
05-28-08, 09:20 PM
With 01 K2 led, could you suggest me how to build circuit for this. Thanks
Basically you need a power source (battery/dynamo) a switch, driver, optics, and finally the LED.
This is my part list
LED : http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2394
Driver : http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1885
I added an external switch to be able to dim my lights, I realized that the AMC7135 chip in this driver are connected in parallel, by disabling one of the chip(Q1) and using a switch , I can reduce the current to 750 ma. Each AMC7135 is basically a 350ma current regulator, 3 of them supplies 1050ma to the LED
You need a good soldering hand to be able to do this since the components are very small and difficult to solder.
optics http://jaycar.com.au part number HP-1296 and HP-1297 (10 and 25 degrees collimator).
I use 2 LED at the same time (wide and spot lens/collimator and 2 drivers)
I mount all this on a small metal box catalog number HB5060 at jaycar.
Finally for power source I use 4xAA Energizer NiMh 2500mAh. With only 1 LED on at full 1050mA I get about 1h 20m constant brightness and it will step down. At 750mA i get about 1h 40m constant brightness
With both LED on I get about half the runtime.
I am building a new battery pack with 4xAA in series connected in parallel to another 4xAA in series. This should double my runtime. More than enough runtime for what I need.
Good luck.
n4zou
05-28-08, 09:44 PM
Basically you need a power source (battery/dynamo) a switch, driver, optics, and finally the LED.
+1
If your running a dynamo things get very simple. The dynamo provides 500mA +/- a little. Considering the XR-E LED is rated at twice that no driver circuit is required, just a simple bridge rectifier to convert AC to DC. If it's a tire driven dynamo you don't even need a switch! Granted; the dynamo is not going to drive the LED to full brightness but it's still going to be very bright and you have unlimited run time.
Here is a very good link to information and circuits for both dynamo and battery powered LED bicycle lighting.
http://pilom.com/BicycleElectronics/BicycleElectronics.htm
wakhoma
05-29-08, 05:55 AM
Could you suggest me how to build circuit? I have some things here.
http://www.luxeonstar.com/item.php?id=1810&link_str=330::1433&partno=LXK2-PW12-R00
Led: LXK2-PW12-R00 (Luxeon K2 - White, 45 Lumens @ 350mA)
I am using Nexus Hub dynamo (6V, 3W, 0.5A=500mA)
and .. circuit, housing, heat sink.... would be made from you. Thanks everyone.
znomit
05-29-08, 03:25 PM
First thing is throw away the K2s. Newer LEDs offer twice the light output for the same power input.
Order a couple of Q5 crees (https://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=4758) and crystal lenses (https://www.kaidomain.com/WEBUI/ProductDetail.aspx?TranID=4594)from kaidomain.com... under 20US$ total
Have a look at the DIY threads here (total geekiness at the top) and bikeled.org for some housing ideas.
You need 3 capacitors, 4 diodes and a resistor to make this simple circuit (http://www.pilom.com/BicycleElectronics/DynamoCircuits.htm#Multi) from Martin. Maybe a switch if you ride during the day. 10$ in bits.
This will give you around 300lm which is enough for most situations.
netbug
05-29-08, 03:25 PM
to make your life easier mount the LED to a Star board first, and then mount the star to a heatsink.
You can find plenty of how-to's in the internet, these are some of them:
http://www.pilom.com/BicycleElectronics/DynamoCircuits.htm (electronics circuits for dynamo)
http://bikeled.org/ (plenty of construction tips)
netbug
05-29-08, 03:31 PM
Znomit:
This is abit off-topic
How long does it takes to receive your order from kaidomain? I want to order some parts from them but some says that it takes forever to arrive. I've been ordering from dealextreme, most things arrive within 2-3 weeks .
znomit
05-29-08, 03:40 PM
DX and Kai are both 1-3 weeks... if the stuff is in stock.
netbug
05-29-08, 06:06 PM
DX and Kai are both 1-3 weeks... if the stuff is in stock.
Thanks, I am interested in the KENNAN driver.
lukasz
06-01-08, 01:54 PM
What are the disadvantages to using a drop-in solution like the original poster did? His build seems much simpler than making your own circuit and all that. The copper housing also acts as a heat sink, correct?
netbug
06-01-08, 02:38 PM
What are the disadvantages to using a drop-in solution like the original poster did? His build seems much simpler than making your own circuit and all that. The copper housing also acts as a heat sink, correct?
You are right, the housing also acts as a heatsink.
There are no disadvantage, for me it is all about the parts I have available to house the light. 1 light usually not much of a problem, if you are building one with more than 1 then mounting and casing for the light can be an issue.
I've just finished building a second set of light for my wife using a stainless steel salt/pepper shaker.
I got the idea from here:
http://www.pilom.com/BicycleElectronics/triLEDhead.htm
znomit
06-01-08, 06:49 PM
What are the disadvantages to using a drop-in solution like the original poster did? His build seems much simpler than making your own circuit and all that. The copper housing also acts as a heat sink, correct?
Drop-ins are a very nice simple solution but have a few drawbacks, if you want to get picky.
Cooling the drop-in, connecting if thermally to the housing.
Dimming control of multiple LEDs
Seem to be limited to reflectors, good for flashlights but I like smooth optics on the bike.
n4zou
06-01-08, 07:20 PM
Drop-ins are a very nice simple solution but have a few drawbacks, if you want to get picky.
Cooling the drop-in, connecting if thermally to the housing.
Dimming control of multiple LEDs
Seem to be limited to reflectors, good for flashlights but I like smooth optics on the bike.
Drop-ins are for flashlight use. The beam is very narrow and spill is limited. They will illuminate only a small part of the road in front of you. Building from scratch allows the use of specialized optics. Notably the elliptical beam pattern typically producing a beam 15 degrees by 30 degrees. This type beam pattern is used in automotive headlights. If your going to run a single LED and lens this is the lens and holder to use with LED's available from DX and Kaid.
http://www.luxeonstar.com/item.php?id=462&link_str=121::125&partno=FHS-HEB1-LL01-H
Adding a second 10 degree narrow lens/holder and LED provides a boost of light to brightly illuminate the roadway in addition to the 15X30 lens illuminating the side of the road. In the photo below you can see a 10 degree narrow on the left and a 15X30 on the right.
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r154/n4zou/light.jpg
ericy
06-01-08, 09:06 PM
I had a thought earlier tonight. Has anyone ever tried to make their own handlebar out of something like a 1-1/2" to 2" diameter aluminum pipe of some sort. My point is that you could actually drill into the front of the pipe and directly mount the LED emitters inside of the handlebar instead of mounting them on top of the handlebar. Whatsmore, with a pipe of this diameter, you could mount the batteries inside of the handlebar,so all of the wiring for the thing could be neatly tucked inside of the handlebar instead of in the usual spots.
I am guessing that a handlebar with such a large diameter would actually be pretty comfortable on the hands. The tricky bits would be to find a way to mount the brakes and shifters, and find a stem onto which you could mount the thing. It probably sounds like a crazy idea, but I am tossing it out for those homebuilders to see if anyone wants to give it a try. For a first go-around it would be easier to try a flat bar rather than a drop bar) just to see if the concept actually works.
znomit
06-01-08, 09:29 PM
Yeah I thought about building such a stealth light like this last year with my commuter. It was an old beater and I thought it would be cool to be able to leave the lights on it.
These (http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut719) are probably small enough to fit inside a flat handlebar. Use these (http://www.cutter.com.au/proddetail.php?prod=cut145) 350mA drivers. AA or AAA flashlight body/clicky on either bar end for batteries and switching. 100lm each side.
I think you would need a reinforcing collar around the drilled out holes.
lukasz
06-02-08, 10:29 AM
Drop-ins are for flashlight use. The beam is very narrow and spill is limited. They will illuminate only a small part of the road in front of you. Building from scratch allows the use of specialized optics. Notably the elliptical beam pattern typically producing a beam 15 degrees by 30 degrees. This type beam pattern is used in automotive headlights. If your going to run a single LED and lens this is the lens and holder to use with LED's available from DX and Kaid.
http://www.luxeonstar.com/item.php?id=462&link_str=121::125&partno=FHS-HEB1-LL01-H
Adding a second 10 degree narrow lens/holder and LED provides a boost of light to brightly illuminate the roadway in addition to the 15X30 lens illuminating the side of the road. In the photo below you can see a 10 degree narrow on the left and a 15X30 on the right.
What kind of LEDs do you use?
n4zou
06-02-08, 11:42 AM
What kind of LEDs do you use?
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2394 or http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1445
I ordered the SSC P4 just before the Cree XR-E became available. I'm very happy with the light output of the SSC P4's but the Cree XR-E would produce marginally more light when using a dynamo and bridge rectifier. If using battery's to power the Cree XR-E to full output much more light would be produced. I thought about upgrading to the Cree XR-E but the SSC P4's are doing just fine. Cagers flash there high beams at me so I must be doing something right!:D