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05-26-08, 01:41 AM
I have a hardly used (Maybe 20 times at most) Niterider Digital Smart light head (15W) from around 1998 that I want to put back into service; however, I don't want to have to bow down to Niterider and buy the Pop-plug to Surlock adapter and a new Digital Battery. What I am wondering (and I'm certainly not an electronics whiz) is the a way to graft this light head and build an acceptable voltage regulator to cut 12V in half to run it with 7ah SLA motorcycle battery?
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q219/Sirrus-Rider/Old%20Niterider%20head/smarthead002.jpg
It's a bit of a shame to relegate this head to the rubbish bin just because the maker went more proprietary with their connectors (and batteries!). I figure that POP plugs are readily available from Radio Crack (Shack) and other E-parts wholesalers that of all the Niterider light heads this one should be the easiest to hack provided that one has the electronics background.
I do have the Pop to Surlock adapter (It's in the pic) but it's garbage as the center pin pulls out and the connection is anything but certain.
I am aware that using a non smart battery might nullify the nifty "Fuel Tank" light, but run time would be a moot point with 7ish Amp hours to play with on a short distance vehicle.
My plan is to use a handlebar bag to mount the battery to the front side of my trike's basket just under the seat.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q219/Sirrus-Rider/07%20Bikes/07SchwinnTownCountry.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q219/Sirrus-Rider/Old%20Niterider%20head/smarthead002.jpg
It's a bit of a shame to relegate this head to the rubbish bin just because the maker went more proprietary with their connectors (and batteries!). I figure that POP plugs are readily available from Radio Crack (Shack) and other E-parts wholesalers that of all the Niterider light heads this one should be the easiest to hack provided that one has the electronics background.
I do have the Pop to Surlock adapter (It's in the pic) but it's garbage as the center pin pulls out and the connection is anything but certain.
I am aware that using a non smart battery might nullify the nifty "Fuel Tank" light, but run time would be a moot point with 7ish Amp hours to play with on a short distance vehicle.
My plan is to use a handlebar bag to mount the battery to the front side of my trike's basket just under the seat.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q219/Sirrus-Rider/07%20Bikes/07SchwinnTownCountry.jpg