Mountain Biking - 2001 Stumpjumper FSR XC PRO or New Hartail?

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-=GS=-
05-30-08, 09:15 AM
OK so I'm about ready to buy my first MTB (been riding road bikes for a long time). I'm not sure if I want to buy a full suspension bike or a hardtail. I found a 2001 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR XC Pro for $800 in the local classifieds and am thinking about picking it up. I could use a little advise as I don't know much about MTB's. My budget is $600-$800.


rydaddy
05-30-08, 09:31 AM
Get a hardtail. A 2001 full suspension bike is a dinosaur in the mountain biking world.

-=GS=-
05-30-08, 09:34 AM
So the technology has advanced alot since 01 huh? I was wondering about that...


pinkrobe
05-30-08, 09:51 AM
Actually, that FSR won't be too bad. It uses the same basic suspension design that the current Specialized bikes use, and it will still work. That said, the bushings will be shot by now, and the shock technology will be pretty weak. Go with a used hardtail in the same price range - you will be happier, methinks.

-=GS=-
05-30-08, 10:05 AM
If i were to look at a new or used hardtail in the same price range what should I be looking for? I'm a little worried about an aluminum frame being harsh.

zlr101
05-30-08, 01:13 PM
Aluminum isnt to harsh...well it can be what were your riding on the road? I just picked up a really nice 01cannondale f2000sx Hayes disc brakes pretty much full xt, xtr rear derailer and casette. It is not too harsh, not to heavy 24lbs for $600. I have also seen a few nice stumpjumpers on craigslist which i recomend.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r119/zlr101_psu/NewBike001.jpg

-=GS=-
05-30-08, 02:12 PM
Actually, that FSR won't be too bad. It uses the same basic suspension design that the current Specialized bikes use, and it will still work. That said, the bushings will be shot by now, and the shock technology will be pretty weak. Go with a used hardtail in the same price range - you will be happier, methinks.

How involved and expensive would it be to replace the bushings? If I were to look for a used hardtail are there certain things to look out for such as only buying a 2-3 year old bike, ect..

-=GS=-
05-30-08, 02:13 PM
Aluminum isnt to harsh...well it can be what were your riding on the road? I just picked up a really nice 01cannondale f2000sx Hayes disc brakes pretty much full xt, xtr rear derailer and casette. It is not too harsh, not to heavy 24lbs for $600. I have also seen a few nice stumpjumpers on craigslist which i recomend.

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r119/zlr101_psu/NewBike001.jpg

Nice bike, I ride a Tommasini Super Prestige most of the time (steel lugged).

heckler
05-30-08, 04:14 PM
i wouldn't worry about harsh coming from the road, the tire pressure and dirt makes it quite comfy.

also i am not sure about the same basic suspension design pinkrobe mentioned... looking at the pics the sus looks pretty different to me...

2001 (http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2001&Brand=Specialized&Model=Stumpjumper+FSR+XC+Pro&Type=bike)

2008 (http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2008&Brand=Specialized&Model=Stumpjumper+FSR+Pro&Type=bike)

Since you are comfortable with bikes online can get you alot for $800
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fantom_comp08.htm

offers alot for the money. Size is important, but you don't need to be as percise as with a road bike so online works well for mtb IMO. I would buy this sort of bike for $800, but maybe the FSR before a MSRP $800 bike from the store. 800 is just getting into the "good/solid" name brand HTs.

kramnnim
05-30-08, 05:25 PM
You could always get a steel hardtail... I've seen Jamis Dragon Comps sell on ebay in your price range...

ProFail
05-30-08, 07:38 PM
Don't get the FS.




2001 IS ancient.

pinkrobe
05-30-08, 07:39 PM
I'm loving this multi-quote thing...


If i were to look at a new or used hardtail in the same price range what should I be looking for? I'm a little worried about an aluminum frame being harsh.

An aluminum mtn bike won't be harsh unless you jack the tire pressure up to 70 psi on 1.9" race tires or something. I have a rigid aluminum SS, and the harshest thing about it is the steel fork. Just sayin'...


How involved and expensive would it be to replace the bushings? If I were to look for a used hardtail are there certain things to look out for such as only buying a 2-3 year old bike, ect..
FSR bushing kit - correction - bearing kit [as of 2000?] would run maybe $80, assuming you could find one. Installation is straightforward.


i wouldn't worry about harsh coming from the road, the tire pressure and dirt makes it quite comfy.

also i am not sure about the same basic suspension design pinkrobe mentioned... looking at the pics the sus looks pretty different to me...

2001 (http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2001&Brand=Specialized&Model=Stumpjumper+FSR+XC+Pro&Type=bike)

2008 (http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2008&Brand=Specialized&Model=Stumpjumper+FSR+Pro&Type=bike)

Since you are comfortable with bikes online can get you alot for $800
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fantom_comp08.htm

offers alot for the money. Size is important, but you don't need to be as percise as with a road bike so online works well for mtb IMO. I would buy this sort of bike for $800, but maybe the FSR before a MSRP $800 bike from the store. 800 is just getting into the "good/solid" name brand HTs.

The FSR of yesteryear uses a Horst link in the rear suspension, and other than more/plusher travel, they ride surprisingly similarly, especially on non-platform shocks.

I totally agree on the bikesdirect route. That's a lot of bike for $800. If you're wondering about fit, I find that my Trek 8500 mtn bike has almost the same top-tube length as my Cervelo Soloist. The distance from seatpost to steerer is only 1cm shorter on the Trek. If you're happy with the fit of your road bike, this fitting technique might work for you.

If going used appeals to you, look for bikes like a Stumpjumper or Trek or Giant with XT-level components and a decent fork. You will probably have to do research on individual models, but you might be able to score a deal.

-=GS=-
05-31-08, 08:46 PM
If going used appeals to you, look for bikes like a Stumpjumper or Trek or Giant with XT-level components and a decent fork. You will probably have to do research on individual models, but you might be able to score a deal.

So you think a 2001 Stumpjumper FSR XC Pro for ~$800 is not a great deal? If not what would be a good price for the bike? I have seen pictures and it looks like its in great shape.

Donegal
05-31-08, 09:11 PM
If the Stumpy has the horst link rear suspension, I would be all over it. I have that bike in my stable and it is still competitive today. That suspension type is patented by Specialized but several of the big racing names pay them a fee to use it, includint the top Titus models. It's the best (in my humble opinion) rear suspension ever designed. It has almost no bob and the pedal force drives the rear tire into the ground instead of you bouncing up. I have changed the fork to a Marzocchi X-Fly and the rear shock was replaced the first week with a Stratos Helix Pro. The rear shock was the best upgrade in the handling department, it really tightened up the rear end.

I need to replace my rear bushings, they are plastic junk. They can be replaced with brass or aluminum bushings and they will keep the rear end tighter. My friend who is a personal trainer and triathlete currently has my Stumpy. For short races and flat track, he rides his Cannondale hardtail. To run a major league singletrack w/terrain, he says the stumpy is faster, even though it is somewhat small for him. If we go to the mountains for a longer ride, he will allways want to use my bike. My other bike is a Cannondale rush w/SRAM X-0 and is lots of fun to ride, but if the trail is hilly and tight, the stumpy is faster. The Cannondale is heavier, most full sus bikes don't climb that well (bob). For $800, if you intend to ride a lot, get the Stumpjumper, you will not regret it. I have 2 friends trying to buy mine and I don't want to sell it, it's a great bike. I have ridden the newest models and even though technology has come a long way, I am still as fast on my old bike.

-=GS=-
06-02-08, 08:57 AM
Thanks for the help everyone. I have purchased my first MTB bike. Coincidentally, it is a different 2001 Stumpjumper FSR XC Pro than the one I was looking at when I started this post. The bike has less than 25 miles on it. It still has some of the nipples on the original tires. I paid $550 for the bike. I'm sure I will be frequenting this forum much more in the future...

Rutnick
06-02-08, 09:43 AM
I'm loving this multi-quote thing...



An aluminum mtn bike won't be harsh unless you jack the tire pressure up to 70 psi on 1.9" race tires or something. I have a rigid aluminum SS, and the harshest thing about it is the steel fork. Just sayin'...


FSR bushing kit - correction - bearing kit [as of 2000?] would run maybe $80, assuming you could find one. Installation is straightforward.



The FSR of yesteryear uses a Horst link in the rear suspension, and other than more/plusher travel, they ride surprisingly similarly, especially on non-platform shocks.

I totally agree on the bikesdirect route. That's a lot of bike for $800. If you're wondering about fit, I find that my Trek 8500 mtn bike has almost the same top-tube length as my Cervelo Soloist. The distance from seatpost to steerer is only 1cm shorter on the Trek. If you're happy with the fit of your road bike, this fitting technique might work for you.

If going used appeals to you, look for bikes like a Stumpjumper or Trek or Giant with XT-level components and a decent fork. You will probably have to do research on individual models, but you might be able to score a deal.

the CURRENT FSR still uses a horst link. Everyone else tries to emulate it or get the license for it.

dminor
06-02-08, 10:09 AM
Thanks for the help everyone. I have purchased my first MTB bike. Coincidentally, it is a different 2001 Stumpjumper FSR XC Pro than the one I was looking at when I started this post. The bike has less than 25 miles on it. It still has some of the nipples on the original tires. I paid $550 for the bike. I'm sure I will be frequenting this forum much more in the future...

Good for you. I do not think you will be disappointed.

rankin116
06-02-08, 10:17 AM
Good find, where's the pics?

-=GS=-
06-02-08, 10:21 AM
I'll try to get some pics up tonight...

pinkrobe
06-02-08, 10:22 AM
the CURRENT FSR still uses a horst link. Everyone else tries to emulate it or get the license for it.

Yup.

<re-reads own post>

Oh - I should have mentioned that explicitly. My bad. I lovin' me the Horst! There are Horst links on my Titus, and it rides smooth, even with the RP23 platform turned off. Horst FTW!

recneps345
06-02-08, 01:44 PM
I'll try to get some pics up tonight...

Congrats. Good price and good bike. Enjoy it and can't wait for the pics.

Chris_F
06-02-08, 01:50 PM
i wouldn't worry about harsh coming from the road, the tire pressure and dirt makes it quite comfy..

I would. I had an aluminum HT Trek 6000 and found that I couldn't comfortably ride it for more than an hour, so I picked up road biking. I bought a CAAD5 (aluminum) frame Cannondale and the road surface itself made road riding MUCH more comfy. There's a big difference between riding a super stiff bike over a smooth road and riding a cushy tire mountain bike over roots and rocks.

I wanted to get back to mountain biking so I got a full suspension C'dale Rush. I'm just as comfortable on long rides on the Rush (over rough terrain) as I am on the CAAD5. I think the OP made a wise choice going full suspension.

-=GS=-
06-02-08, 07:33 PM
OK here are the pics... :thumb:

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/7282/photo007bvp0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/6286/photo011bhf0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

roccobike
06-02-08, 08:26 PM
That bike looks great. After reading the thread, I thought the first Stumpy's $800 price tag was too high. But for $550, I think you got a deal. Geez, that thing looks like there's not a scratch on it! Way to go.

zlr101
06-02-08, 09:36 PM
That bike looks great:thumb: and it has to be pretty light even with what looks like a stock setup great buy makes my used buy look not as good.

elf 232
06-02-08, 10:21 PM
How involved and expensive would it be to replace the bushings? If I were to look for a used hardtail are there certain things to look out for such as only buying a 2-3 year old bike, ect..

I would STROOOONGLY advize against this, im going through a bushing replacement right now on my 03 Specialized enduro and it is nearly impossible to find and if you do you will pay about 70 bucks all said an done after a month and a half wait for back orders on rarely purchased parts.


...oh, nvmd, it looks shiny so it might not have a lot of wear on the bearings.

-=GS=-
06-03-08, 05:43 AM
I would STROOOONGLY advize against this, im going through a bushing replacement right now on my 03 Specialized enduro and it is nearly impossible to find and if you do you will pay about 70 bucks all said an done after a month and a half wait for back orders on rarely purchased parts.


...oh, nvmd, it looks shiny so it might not have a lot of wear on the bearings.

Yeah I think the bushings/bearings are all fine. However, I do need a new seatpost. The one currently on the bike was cut down so that the seat could sit lower (I guess). In the pics the bottom of the seat post is about an inch up in the bike. There is a sticker on the back of the bike that says the post should protrude through the bottom of the frame or I might damage the frame...

Any recommendations for seatpost?

ACRay
09-12-08, 08:03 AM
i'm thinking about getting something like this:

http://i19.ebayimg.com/05/i/001/0a/fb/7ca4_12.JPG

I'm a little new to the mtb, just wondering if a stumpy like that would be worth 500... and is that the horst rear suspension?

sry to dig up an old thread