Classic & Vintage - Finally - Pics of my PX 10 And a lot of them!

Here is my "new" '77 PX 10

Just got it back from the shop today. I still have to replace the left crank arm, which I am picking up tomorrow. Notice the thread size stamped on the arm, interesting it is not French threading. I am also waiting for the yoke calble for the front brake, I actually moved it to the back from the front, still missing one though. Other than that, I'm cleaning it up and taking it out tomorrow. This is also going to be my first experience with tubular tires, we'll see how long those last. I took off the areo bars that were on it and re-taped tonight. My first time taping bars, I think it turned out ok. If anyone wants a pair of old Scott aerobars let me know as I will not be using them.

The photos are hi-res so they make take a while to load...sorry for the camera shake, I have a kit lense on it and have been doing a little drinking :thumb:.

Notice the ding on the top tube which I put in it today, doh. I was in a hurry from picking it up, had a kid in a car seat in the car, so couldn't fold the back seat down. The bike BARELY fit, and in the process I gave it a big dent, doh!

Comments and suggestions on what to do with it are much appreciated! Also, what can I do about that hideous dent???


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The red paint in one of the picks is from the Radio Flyer ATW in the background. The two of them don't fit very well together in the back of a Jeep Cherkokee! And...the wagon cost almost as much as the bike.

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There should be cable housing running from the plastic downtube stop to the front derailer. The way you have it set up is hard on the paint!

Both brake cables are too short and they should both go behind the bars. Don't stand the bike upside down if you don't want more kinked cables.

It's a nice color. I wish mine was blue.

It's not a good idea to leave those presta valve adapters on when you have tubular tires. It can lock up the wheel if a tire comes off.

Thanks, the guy that had it before me didn't do anything for the bike. Hence, the stripped crank arm, stripped axle (which thankfully we were able to fix), and other issues. Could you actually post or send me a picture of how the cable should be set up?

The shop actually lost the cap to the tire when he was filling them ??? and put the adapter on. I am going to take it off when I ride, that way I won't forget to have an adapter with me.

Very cool PX10! :thumb: Looks like it will be lots of fun to ride. I wouldn't worry too much about the dent unless sell the bike before you get your money's worth out of it.

It's not a good idea to leave those presta valve adapters on when you have tubular tires. It can lock up the wheel if a tire comes off.

Tell him the real reason to remove them....It screams "Fred!" :lol:

A blue PX-10...nice to see something besides white.

Thanks, the guy that had it before me didn't do anything for the bike. Hence, the stripped crank arm, stripped axle (which thankfully we were able to fix), and other issues. Could you actually post or send me a picture of how the cable should be set up?

The shop actually lost the cap to the tire when he was filling them ??? and put the adapter on. I am going to take it off when I ride, that way I won't forget to have an adapter with me.

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I've already told you what I think of your mechanic. I wouldn't let a bike leave my shop in that condition and I work for free.

I've already told you what I think of your mechanic. I wouldn't let a bike leave my shop in that condition and I work for free.

After today, I couldn't agree more with you.
I went to pick up the replacement crank arm, and what should have been a quick swap of parts turned into four hours of wrenching. The gentleman who I met today actually used to work for the shop I that went to and seemingly feels the same about them. He also couldn't believe that they actually let it go in the condition it was in. To be fair, the mechanic at the shop did mention the derailleur cable, but they are so busy they couldn't get to it until later this week. Also, they would probably charge me $20 for cable alone. We were able to fix that and much more today, all for the meager cost of the crank arm and a few hours of his time.

He immediately noticed the cable and replaced the entire cable and set the front derailleur. He also changed the rollers in the rear derailleur as they were shot, one side of each was totaly squared off. In addition to that, he pulled the rear wheel to check it for me. He also took the time to adjust everything for me. While doing the work, he took the time of showing me what tools to use and how to do all of the work and adjusting everything. I am very satisfied with the time I spent today than the work and time and cost at the shop. The gentleman who worked on the bike today is very knowledgeable and has all of the tools and parts which I needed to get the bike ready.

I took the bike for a short ride around a few blocks. Two things I realized: it is more difficult to stop 150lbs of me 10 years ago and 200lbs of me now, I felt like the rear brake was slowing me, barely; and secondly I need to get used to balancing while on a road bike. I really like the bike and need to get the front brake working as I felt very uncomfortable trying to stop with just the rear. Tubular tires are also a very different ride, I think they will take some getting used to.

Did you find a bridge wire for that brake? Hilary Stone was selling them for $14 not long ago.
I can make them for the early type, but I haven't figured out how to make those ball ends.

I'm glad you found a better mechanic, but you still need to learn to do it yourself.

A lot of the PX10's I see have had their wheels switched, but it looks like you have the originals with Maillard 700 hubs.

The hubs are the Maillard 700's, but the freewheel is Japanese, although he said it is a good part. I eventually plan on replacing the wheels with to fit clinchers. Do you feel like it would be worth lacing up the wheels with new rims to fit clinchers or replacing the full wheelset? Thanks again.

If you can have only one brake, make it the front, not the rear.

You need KoolStop salmon brake pads front and rear.

You can fabricate your own MAFAC bridge cable from a standard brake cable with a teardrop end.

You need a nice set of road quill pedals and toeclips.

Here is how I route brake cables (I shortened them after I took this picture).

If you can have only one brake, make it the front, not the rear.

You need KoolStop salmon brake pads front and rear.

You can fabricate your own MAFAC bridge cable from a standard brake cable with a teardrop end.

You need a nice set of road quill pedals and toeclips.

Here is how I route brake cables (I shortened them after I took this picture).

Not all MAFACs are Racers. He has the late Competitions with the ball end bridge wires.

If you can have only one brake, make it the front, not the rear.


That's a recipe for going over your handle bars. On a fixie where you have your legs to stop the rear wheel this makes sense, on a freewheel bike you are asking to get really injured doing that. On a freewheel bike you absolutely want the brake in the back if it's the only one you have, even though it's not as efficient back there.

Karl

The hubs are the Maillard 700's, but the freewheel is Japanese, although he said it is a good part. I eventually plan on replacing the wheels with to fit clinchers. Do you feel like it would be worth lacing up the wheels with new rims to fit clinchers or replacing the full wheelset? Thanks again.

Maillard 700 is a very nice hub and it would be worth it to lace some clinchers to them if you are not wanting to keep tubulars.

Publish the name of that shop. With the work they do + $20 for a cable, they do not deserve to be in business.

-Kurt

Kurt,

I sent you a PM.