Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets - Total Geekiness

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My wife phoned me at work. "Pete, I pulled up this website, www.klorg.com. It has something you might be interested in: the Geek Light Project." Since my old lighting system was whacked, I was all ears (being a total geek myself.) I knew a new lighting system, however Fantasmic, was somewhere out near Disneyland for me, until I scraped together a couple-two-three hundred American dineros.

So when we were out at Home Depot getting a Christmas tree, I asked an orange lady, "Where is the outdoor lighting?" I ventured over to the place she pointed. It wasn't long before I nailed the 20-watt, 12-volt yard light the Geek Doctor recommended. Still short of a power source (they didn't have anything at Home Depot versatile enough,) I ferried the family home. Total expenditure on Geeky Light Project so far: $12.

On the way home, I stopped at Batteries Plus for advice, not that I expected any Real Geeks to be there to help me find something tailor-made to fit my Geek Light Project specifications; but I was waaay wrong! The Head Geek Battery Expert knew more about what I was wanting than I knew how to ask. He calculated the amp-hours needed to build a custom NiCd battery pack for my needs (ball-park) on the spot for my 12v, 20w Malibu yard light. Turns out I'm not the only cyclist who's dropped by Batteries Plus for help (thanks, dude!)

But the H.G.B.E. had bad news: I needed ten NiCd batteries for my 12v setup to get the run-time I needed for my 20w bulb. This would cost me about one hundred and fifty American pesos. Eeek, geek! This is not geeky at all! But the H.G.B.E. was not worried. "Then again, a lead-acid setup will run you about $25."

:eek:

Now I knew what I had to do.

Well, another Project, the Make the Old Car Pass Emission Inspection Project, took precedence. I found myself changing the oil and shopping at Pep Boys. Lo, and behold, what did I find? a Vector Pocket Power 12V portable power source, complete with plug receptacle for charging/power, water-resistant padded case, 12-volt DC charging adapter to recharge from a car's cigarette lighter (if necessary,) 110-volt AC charging adapter for home use, and even a built-in 10-amp fuse for safety. (I forgot to mention it had a shoulder-strap, too.) Total geek-cost: $20 (which, by the way, I had saved by changing my own oil and not going to Jiffy Lube. This was still half of the price Batteries Plus would have cost me for a battery and charger, not including the totally non-geeky water-resistant padded case, and 12-volt DC charging adapter for recharging from a car's cigarette lighter (which is beyond geeky, it's in the realm of handy-man geekiness.)

Total geek cost so far: $32 Americana. Muy bien! :D

Lemme tell ya, folks, when I attached that Malibu light to the Pocket Power source, I got serious beamage. Like, the whole road lit up! And, if I want, for $7 more, I can upgrade to 35 watts (but that will affect run-time, and I'm not sure I really need it, after seeing what a 12-volt, 20-watt beam does.)

Next: find a good on/off switch...

...I am going to thank Doctor Geek from www.klorg.com for the ideas. I didn't follow everything he said, and I will be e-mailing him about some no-no's I discovered (don't charge your battery directly from your car battery without the engine running,) but Dr. G. will be getting my thanks.

(Don't worry, folks--if this is a failure, I will let y'all know. But what's $32, after all?)


:beer:

Shortcut-

www.klorg.com/bike

Both Home Depot & Harbor Freight sell 12 Volt rechargeable hand lights in the 500,000-1,000,000 candlepower range for $10 to $29. I have a 500,000 one I use when I take my dogs out at night. Throws a beam like a car high beam & run time is about 2 1/2 hours. Down side is they are heavy & a little bulky but not impossible to mount on a bike. Check them out. Don

Both Home Depot & Harbor Freight sell 12 Volt rechargeable hand lights in the 500,000-1,000,000 candlepower range for $10 to $29. I have a 500,000 one I use when I take my dogs out at night. Throws a beam like a car high beam & run time is about 2 1/2 hours. Down side is they are heavy & a little bulky but not impossible to mount on a bike. Check them out. Don
Thanks, Don! I've seen those, too, great price! Yes, a bit heavy, but...
I didn't know they had a 2 1/2 hour run-time, though. He, he...

I stood in front of my bike while my wife connected the light, just so's I could see what it looked like from the front. My wife's concerns were correct: it better be pointing downward, 'cuz that sucker's bright! I don't want to blind motorists. :D The rear light is supposed to be a 12-v truck marker light (LED for less battery drain.) Serious geekage...

I kept bugging my wife last night. "The way to a man's heart is through his bicycle!" I told her. After repeating my thank-you's 100 times, I guess she gets it... :rolleyes:

The difference in weight between my old NiCd system and the new Geek System
is about the weight of my U-lock.

LittleBigMan,

We are SO PROUD! Welcome to the Geek club. :D

Between RainmanP, you and me we could create a festival of lights just by lining up our bikes! :eek: :eek: :eek:

It wasn't long before I nailed the 20-watt, 12-volt yard light the Geek Doctor recommended. Still short of a power source (they didn't have anything at Home Depot versatile enough,) I ferried the family home. Total expenditure on Geeky Light Project so far: $12.

I stopped at Batteries Plus for advice, I needed ten NiCd batteries for my 12v setup to get the run-time I needed for my 20w bulb. This would cost me about one hundred and fifty American pesos.
But what's $32, after all?)
:beer:

First let me clarify, my job is an electronic technician so I am very comfortable around electronics, lamps, and batteries. But a quick search of Performance bikes comes up with a find of a 10w Nite Rider system for $55 bucks http://www.performancebike.com/shop/Profile.cfm?SKU=15884 . The cool thing is that this little gem comes with battery, lamp, charger and and a clean mounting system. Sure, I understand the sense of accomplishment of building your own system but why bother when you can get a much better system that is easy to mount and reliable for nearly the same price or in some cases less.

Granted this isn't a hefty 20w but I use a 10w system for daily commuting and it is fine. I have used a 12w + 20w commuter system for many years and I find the 20w or 32w more than necessary and undue added weight.

Just curious about opinions of home built lights when there are so many affordable light systems available as a complete kit.

How quickly we forget that that same 10W lamp set-up was over $100 not that many years ago. At the present prices for good 10W halogens home-built doesn't make as much economic sense as it did 5 or 6 yrs ago, but it does leave you with more versatility in making repairs than a package system where you void all warrenties if you use a different battery or charger.

...a quick search of Performance bikes comes up with a find of a 10w Nite Rider system for $55... The cool thing is that this little gem comes with battery, lamp, charger and and a clean mounting system. Sure, I understand the sense of accomplishment of building your own system but why bother when you can get a much better system that is easy to mount and reliable for nearly the same price or in some cases less?

Just curious about opinions of home built lights when there are so many affordable light systems available as a complete kit.
Hey, I guess I'm just excited about my home-built light! But it's a little too early for me to have an opinion on home-built lights in general, since this will be my first. But I'll let y'all know how it goes.

Necessity is the mother of invention, here. I needed to see the road, something my old 10w light did not do well enough for me; then the batteries gave out on the old light, so it was time for a new one. The lighting systems my local bike shops carry range in price from $100 to $400. I just couldn't pass up the chance for a 20w light system for as low as $32. It's that simple!

:D

Sure, I understand the sense of accomplishment of building your own system but why bother when you can get a much better system that is easy to mount and reliable for nearly the same price or in some cases less.

Getting there is half the fun. I spent a lot more than $32 on my homemade light, but I also got exactly the light I wanted. I've been using it for two years now, and have no desire to change it (although I am considering building a second light unit - not so much for the extra light, more for the geek value ;))

Ok. I mounted the light to the handlebars using two hose clamps. The light has it's own built-in adjustable angle. The battery pack is stashed neatly upside-down under the seat. The wire connecting the battery to the light came with the battery. It was the charging wire for connecting to car cigarette lighters. I snipped off one end and attached it to the light. The other end plugs nicely into the battery. No need for a switch; to turn it off, I simply pull the cigarette-lighter-plug out from the battery a fraction of an inch. Safe and effective.

Total cost: $32.

Time spent: Now that I've done it, I could do it again in a shake (chocolate.)

Materials:

Battery pack - $20. Auto parts supply (Pep Boys,) used as portable alternate power source for powering tools, boosting weak batteries, etc. Sealed non-spillable lead-acid 12v, 5 amp/hr rechargeable battery in padded, water-resistant case, with 110v charger, car battery charger for on the road.

Malibu outdoor yard light - $12. Home improvement/hardware store (Home Depot,) 12 volt, 20 watt halogen light, black aluminum housing, adjustable verticle beam angle, glass cover. Can be upgraded to a higher-watt bulb.

Cable ties ("zip-ties.") - "in the house." (1 penny?) Any hardware store. Used to tie the wire to the bike frame.

Hose clamps - "in the house." ($1?) Any hardware store. Used to attach light to handlebar.

Wire connectors, electrician's tape - "in the house." ($1?) Any hardware store. Used to connect light wires to battery wires.

All I have left to do is the challenging part: hacksaw the aluminum spike from the yard light, and file/sandpaper the cut smooth. I'll probably tweek it a bit here and there for finishing touches.

Battery pack - $20. Auto parts supply (Pep Boys,) used as portable alternate power source for powering tools, boosting weak batteries, etc. Sealed non-spillable lead-acid 12v, 5 amp/hr rechargeable battery in padded, water-resistant case, with 110v charger, car battery charger for on the road.
Does your battery pack look like this one? Was it on sale when you bought it?

Materials:

Battery pack - $20. Auto parts supply (Pep Boys,) used as portable alternate power source for powering tools, boosting weak batteries, etc. Sealed non-spillable lead-acid 12v, 5 amp/hr rechargeable battery in padded, water-resistant case, with 110v charger, car battery charger for on the road.

Malibu outdoor yard light - $12. Home improvement/hardware store (Home Depot,) 12 volt, 20 watt halogen light, black aluminum housing, adjustable verticle beam angle, glass cover. Can be upgraded to a higher-watt bulb.

Cable ties ("zip-ties.") - "in the house." (1 penny?) Any hardware store. Used to tie the wire to the bike frame.

Hose clamps - "in the house." ($1?) Any hardware store. Used to attach light to handlebar.

Wire connectors, electrician's tape - "in the house." ($1?) Any hardware store. Used to connect light wires to battery wires.


Putting it all together and seeing it work ($ Priceless)

Does your battery pack look like this one? Was it on sale when you bought it?
That's her! Kinda purty, I thought. (It never ceases to amaze me how you guys come up with these pics.)

I don't remember it being on sale, but it might have been. Does it cost more than $20 where you are? (It did seem very reasonable.)

Notice the 12V plug receptacle on the side? I've got mine mounted upside-down in case it rains. I might add some additional waterproofing in the future to cover the plug receptacle.

I don't remember it being on sale, but it might have been. Does it cost more than $20 where you are? (It did seem very reasonable.)


I found it online for $50. There isn't a Pep Boys close to here (San Bruno, CA) and Pepboys' website didn't list it. I could check Kragen or Grand.

I found it online for $50. There isn't a Pep Boys close to here (San Bruno, CA) and Pepboys' website didn't list it. I could check Kragen or Grand.
Keep looking. They will go fast.

Here's a link if you want to build your own. You need a trickle-charger and a sealed lead-acid battery. The battery is $17 or $18, and the charger is about the same. The rest can be improvised. But keep looking for that Vector battery, it's got all you need in one package.

http://www.action-electronics.com/chargers.htm#Chargers

http://www.action-electronics.com/sla.htm#12

And here's the same thing as the Vector, different company, $30 (with coupon.)
Supposedly, you can save 5% ordering online. It doesn't mention amps/hrs, but
it looks exactly the same as the Vector 12V.

http://store.yahoo.com/igadget/rpsl600.html

Very cool! I need to look for a battery that's about 1/2 the weight.
Wonder if a 12V Camera battery would work.

I found it online for $50. There isn't a Pep Boys close to here (San Bruno, CA) and Pepboys' website didn't list it. I could check Kragen or Grand.


They closed the one in Fremont on Stevenson, near I-880. The only other one I go to is in Union City, across I-880 from the big Union Landing shopping center. There's a Home Depot there. If you cross the San Mateo Bridge, go south on 880 and exit at Industrial in Union City. Cross back under the freeway to the east side, and turn left at the light. Turn into the Home Depot parking lot and look around for Pep Boys.

Very cool! I need to look for a battery that's about 1/2 the weight.
Wonder if a 12V Camera battery would work.
Might. Or, use NiCd's or NiMH's, but unless you find a bargain on the net (there are some,) you'll pay BIG bucks.

To get 1/2 the weight with sealed lead-acid batteries, you could cut one of these factors in half: watts or amp/hrs (run-time.) For example:

1) Buy a 12V sealed lead-acid battery that has only about an hour's run time, somewhere around 2 amp/hrs, with the 20W light.

2) Use a smaller lead acid battery (about 2 amp/hrs) with a 10W light (instead of 20W) from the hardware store, which will allow a longer run-time.

Check around, ask questions, surf the net. Just remember to compare the price between home-built and those you can buy ready-made.

In my previous post, I might have incorrectly stated that reducing the voltage from 12 volts to 6 volts would allow you to reduce battery size/weight. To reduce battery size/weight, you must reduce either the wattage of your light (brightness) or the amps of your battery (run-time).

I edited my post accordingly.

Ok, I finally got off my lazy holiday-butt and rode my bike to work, using my new homemade light. The design is currently a 4.5 amp, 12V battery attached to a 20 watt, 12v halogen light ("MR11" narrow flood beam.) I replaced the 20 watt "pin bulb" that came with the light and put in the MR11, giving it a more focused beam.

I was very happy with the brightness of the beam. But in order to replace the pin bulb with the MR11 bulb/reflector, I had to remove the pin bulb reflector from the light housing. This made room for the MR11, but it lacks support and shakes a bit over the bumps, so I'll have to fasten it down more securely inside
the housing. I don't forsee a problem.

Also, last night I purchased a 50 watt MR16 light at an after-Christmas sale for about 75 cents (normally, these go for about $5.) I tested it in my light housing for fit, and to check the run-time with my battery. It would not fit unless I removed the glass shield/cover from the light housing (meaning the MR16 is too large and that I'll have to use only MR11 lights.) But I was able to test the 50 watt's run-time using my 4.5 amp battery.

I was very impressed with the output of the 50 watt bulb. But at that wattage, the drain on my battery was excessive. Where my 20 watt light maintained full brightness for about 2 hours 15 minutes, the 50 watt stayed bright only about 45 minutes. Next, I'll test a 35 watt MR11. Since I recharge at work, I only need about an hour's run-time.

My commute lasts about one hour, but only about 40 minutes is in the dark. I could go with the 50 watt and use a small headlight for backup, or use a 35 watt and cover the whole distance. I think the 35 watt is my best bet, but I'm tempted to use a 50 watt MR11 (if I can find one!) Of course, I could get another light housing complete with a 50 watt bulb for only $16, but I'll look for a bulb, first.

Not bad for under $40!

:D

Alphageek has done me great honor by mentioning me in connection with the great LittleBigMan! Unfortunately, I recently spent big bucks on a new HID system, or I would be all over this project. I may have to set one up anyway just because I can't resist! That way I won't have to move lights when I ride my alternate commuter. I am DEFINITELY going to look at some LED truck tail lights for a rear light. Hmm. How about using a Malibu light with a 35 watt bulb and a red lens for a rear light? Think drivers would be able to see it?

Some have questioned why assemble a light setup like this when perhaps you can buy one for not a whole lot more. I find the idea attractive because of the ease of repair later. By assembling a system using easily available standard components you can always pick up replacements at AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc. It really irritates me to have a proprietary part like a battery go bad and have to spend a lot for it AND have to wait for it because it is a special order item.

I am DEFINITELY going to look at some LED truck tail lights for a rear light. Hmm. How about using a Malibu light with a 35 watt bulb and a red lens for a rear light? Think drivers would be able to see it?
I promised updates, mostly because this is a new project for me. Therefore, as promised, I give the following status report:

Rather than experimenting with other wattage bulbs (35W, 50W) I think my best option is to use a dual-light configuration. That's the simplest way to go. (properly sized 35W lights were darn near impossible to find, and 50W shorten run-time too much.) I'll add switches to allow using one or both lights, as needed. I already have a 20W, so I'll probably add another one. That way, I could use both lights in the darkest part of my commute and switch one off when I need only to be seen. Much depends on the run-time of my 4.5 amp battery. I think I'll be fine, but if not, I'll try a 10W in the second light to extend my run-time.

I'm experimenting with ways to focus my beam a bit better, as it is designed as a wide flood pattern. I've had good success so far by extending the reflector a bit more forward from the bulb.

(This is a really fun project. I have to be careful that I don't spend unnecessary money on gagets I see, thinking I might want to try them. Shopping around and discovering new possibilities is, like, so far out. One of the neatest by-products of this project is the discovery of how many gadgets run on 12V systems at the car shoppe. Can you see me with a 7 amp battery and a 55W halogen car light? Just kidding...I think...hm.........)

...I think my best option is to use a dual-light configuration. That's the simplest way to go. (properly sized 35W lights were darn near impossible to find, and 50W shorten run-time too much.) I'll add switches to allow using one or both lights, as needed.
Done. Two 20W lights connected to a single three-way switch. First click--light #1, second click--light #2, third click--both lights together. Impressive brightness. Next, I'll test run-time using both lights, 40W combined.

:beer:

Verl cool indeed. Any pics of the setup?

Verl cool indeed. Any pics of the setup?
Not yet, but I'll see what I can do.

Done. Two 20W lights connected to a single three-way switch. First click--light #1, second click--light #2, third click--both lights together. Impressive brightness. Next, I'll test run-time using both lights, 40W combined.

:beer:
Okey-dokey. I ran the test at home using two 20W lights and a 4.5 amp battery. She stayed bright about an hour.

This morning was the road test. I didn't use all 40W except when I wanted extra light, such as on descents. 20W seemed bright enough to see the road, and though 40W was better, I kept it in reserve. I had plenty of power for my hour commute. It's recharging in front of my desk, now (my lead-acid battery works best when you recharge fully after every use.) I could probably get by with a single 20W light, but I like the extra power availability.

So, I'm nearing the end of the story. I'm very happy with my low-cost light system. It was extremely easy to put together, mostly because of the battery I bought. I recommend this type of battery because it comes in it's own water-resistant case, comes equipped with a charger and is quickly adaptable to the task. I could probably do it again in less than an hour.

There was an additional cost of about $20 to mount a second 20W light: $12 for the light, $2 for two hose clamps, and $5 for the 3-way switch.

All that remains is to beautify my geek-light. That will come in time. Right now, I'm experimenting with a nipple from a Gerber baby bottle I found in the dollar-store ($1.) This little nipper didn't know why it was made. It thought it was going into a baby's gums, but nooooo, it's going to be promoted to a light switch cover (rain protection.)

:D

LBM - Is this the light you picked up at Home Depot?
http://www.homedepot.com/cmc_upload/HDUS/EN_US/asset/images/eplus/163054_4.jpg

link to product (http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=storehome%2fpg_storehome.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@2099438065.1073509769@@@@&BV_EngineID=cceeadckghjlhhicgelceffdfgidgnj.0&MID=9876&pos=t06)

LBM - Is this the light you picked up at Home Depot?

That's it, with the spike removed. There is a pivot-point which should remain intact, because it mounts easier and allows verticle movement of the light when loosened.

I am on the trail of candidates for bright LED taillights. I found a site that has a variety of both marker lights and tail/stop/turn lights in amber and red. I decided to start small so I got an 8-LED marker light, 1284R, that has a "Reflex" lens which means it is also a reflector when the light is off. I will get a system worked out then look at some of the really serious stuff, like 48 and 61 LED tail/stop/turn models or two smaller ones. I don't get concerned about a little extra weight so I will use a separate SLA battery for the rear lights. The site is led-r-us.com.

I am on the trail ...
You go, Raymond!

By the time you get through ("If it ain't broke, mess with it anyway,") you'll have perfected a truly awesome, aesthetically-pleasing workbench marvel that will be the envy of geeks and techno-junkies alike!

Hey, if you don't care about the weight, maybe you could tap the second battery (wired parallel with the first battery) into the headlights and have some real options. You don't have to use a Malibu light. With your genius for internet shopping, you could find some serious beamage out there. (There is also abundant information about the finer points of wattage, amperage, run-time, beam patterns, bulb options, wiring, etc.)

Yeah, the highlight of my cycling career will be the day a policeman pulls me over because my lights are too bright. :D Can't ya see it? Lights like the mother ship in "Close Encounters" with my on board sound system blaring "Ride of the Valkyries" a la "Apocolypse Now". "I love the smell of napalm in the morning."

I think I might try to hook up a car horn, as well. Cool beans!

The only problem is, I don't want to startle myself.

I like the idea of two lights, if one goes out you still have the other.
Nother thought along with a horn why not led type running lights like a motorcycle?

I like the idea of two lights, if one goes out you still have the other.
Nother thought along with a horn why not led type running lights like a motorcycle?
Not only that, but running both lights at the same time is much brighter. Also, a 12V system means there are a lot of very inexpensive lighting options available at the auto parts store. I can get a nice 6" 12V LED for a tailight for about $10.

If anyone thought I was kidding about the horn, I don't blame you, I'm a big kidder. But I wasn't kidding. I found one today for $12 that's very light and small, designed for automobiles. The disposable air horns were a fantastic idea, but they run $6 for a tiny one and $10 for a large (the large offers a replacement canister for about $7.)

Wow! A helicopter just flew overhead. My wife complained, "Why do helicopters have to fly over us?"

"They're looking for someone. Before helicopters, they would have to drive around with a small spotlight. Now, they can shine a huge light into the woods and spot almost anything."

"PETE! THAT'S IT! YOU NEED A HELICOPTER LIGHT ON YOUR BIKE!!!"

(My wife thinks that's very funny.)

:rolleyes:

Thomas Edison once said, "If it ain't broke, mess with it anyway!" Wait, that wasn't Thomas Edison...anyway...

EUREKA! I messed with it one more time. I found a way to make the 20W MR11 bulb (which puts out WAAAY more beamage--more brightly focused--than the standard 20W halogen flood that came with the Malibu light) fit in my system.

I can't wait to try 2 20W MR11's together at the same time, on the road. (One more MR11--$5.)

Ahhh, life is goooooooooood.

:)

Must be you don't get the moths that are drawn to headlights?
Cornborer Moths can be a proablem for bout a month in late April earl May, have hit round a thousand per mile when they are at their worst, pickups wipers could not keep up.

Must be you don't get the moths that are drawn to headlights?
Cornborer Moths can be a proablem for bout a month in late April earl May, have hit round a thousand per mile when they are at their worst, pickups wipers could not keep up.
Yikes!

Since we're talking about "bugs," I blew the fuse on my battery this morning. Yes, it's equipped with a fuse, but it's not a real safety issue, it's a battery-drain issue. The fuse prevents excessive power drain which could shorten the run-time of the battery or even harm it. What caused it?

I don't think it was the 40W of power I was using at the time. I have used 50W for over 30 minutes without blowing the fuse. I think it was a short. I was using metal reflectors in combination with MR11 lights that already have their own reflectors. The plug-in pins did not clear the metal reflectors, and must have touched causing a short. I removed the metal reflectors and replaced the fuse.

Man, before that happened, I was seeing very well even with only 20W. Good little light.

I need to say, these moths go years without being that bad and when they are its just for a few nights. While motorcycling tho I used to hate having them hit my face shield, they are not heavy but real messy, grasshoppers are another story!

Ooh! Ooh! My turn, my turn. OK, I got the 8-LED trailer marker light with Reflex lens. It is hooked up, and glowing merrily right now. The lens configuration knocks down a little of the brightness of the LED's so that the 8 don't seem any brighter than a 7-LED Vistalite. However, the reflective lens and larger size, 6"x2" of the 8-LED light makes it more visible. I am happy enough with it that I will be getting a couple of more lights from the place. I am thinking perhaps a couple of round 13-LED lights to flank the 8-LED/reflecter. Now all I have to do is figure out mounting. It would be simple to clip a length of 2"x1/8" aluminum bar to the rack and mount the lights on it. This would be fine in dry weather, but I have to figure out some way to make sure all the connections are water-tight. The lights themselves are sealed so not a problem.

...I have to figure out some way to make sure all the connections are water-tight. The lights themselves are sealed so not a problem.
Use something like this:

http://www.bright.net/~kanga/kanga/k1cra/liquid_tape.htm

I saw a different brand at Home Depot for about $5.

I just love it.

This morning, I felt like I could really see the road, especially when there were no cars or street lights to help me, and that was with just 20W. I rarely used both 20W beams together.

A couple of times, cars actually waited on me. They definitely saw me coming.

I think the 4.5 amp (or 5 amp) sealed lead acid battery is perfect for my commuting needs. I don't need more than 60 or 75 minutes of run time and I can recharge at the office (I could even recharge from a car's cigarette lighter.) The battery supports 20 watts for about 135 minutes at full brightness (it would support 10 watts for about 4 1/2 hours.) It works well when recharged frequently, that is, after being only partially discharged. It's very reliable and inexpensive. When it reaches the end of it's life, I can replace it easily for less than $30. Also, the lights can be replaced for about $6 each and are available in many places, though they are supposed to last quite a while.

Sounds like you could write up a good howto by the end of the month, all we need are pics now.
Keep up the good work!

BTW, why not have a plugin to run a helmet mounted light?

Keep up the good work!


Thanks, man!

:D

Hey LBM,
The post about the helo light cracked me up. But you know what, I flew 'em for 20 yrs, and yes they had big lights, but I always wanted a bigger one! I noticed a parallel here.....

About five years ago i made a set of lights using the same housings,but installed mr 16 20 w bulbs,i built the first set for riding singletrack in the woods at night,i use two lights 12v 4 amb hour battery, being a machinist i made mounts to attach to the handlebars and have them switched so i can run them one at a time, i now have three sets on different bikes,two mtb ,one on my commeter bike i ride everyday
Hey LBM,
The post about the helo light cracked me up. But you know what, I flew 'em for 20 yrs, and yes they had big lights, but I always wanted a bigger one! I noticed a parallel here.....

Humm, just got back from my expidition to Menards, cute little Osram bulbs, 12v 20w with a glass cover, just the thing to keep dirt and moisture out. 38* beam, 35mm dia, PN#44890 WFL, 12v.
Less than 4 bucks.
But my real find was a battery pack, Schumacher Mity Mite, 12amp/hr. $11. out the door! Built in 120v charger and 12vdc lighter socker and big battery clips.
Really the only drawback is its almost 20 lbs.

BTW: found this neat item on ebay, anybody know about them?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3652635353&category=22684

Yup, me again, those Osrams are MR11 size, tonite I found some 35w flood Sylvania with the enclosed reflector, 2 for $7.50 @ Lowes.
Can't seem to find the bigger MR16 in an enclosed style.
Also can't find anything lower wattage than 20w.

My big find was at NAPA, PN#784504 is a pak of five crimpon
fittings to wire up these bulbs, they are a good fit, takes 2 per bulb.
Some track lighting would have the correct socket, only cheap iffn you found some in a dumpster.
And for the real scrounger, a XT keyboard connector seems to have the correct sockets, be a real fiddly salvage job though.

Next is to design a shell and mount I'm happy with.

Hey, fellas! I'm back! :D

My setup is now as follows:

1 20W MR-11 halogen flood.
1 35W MR-16 halogen flood.
1 3-way switch, allowing 20W, 35W or 55W power (both lights together) or "off."

I can run my 20W for over 2 hours, or my 35W for an hour, continuously, using my 4.5 amp battery. I'll save using 55W for trouble spots. My commute is an hour, but only 30 minutes or so in the dark. After the light starts to come, 20W is more than enough to be seen.


And (drumroll, please....)

For $18, I added a 12V car/boat horn w/button ($12 for horn, $6 for button hookup.) This thing is as loud as a car horn, but is only about the size of a small tuna fish can, and even lighter. The button sits directly under my right index finger on the handlebars, so I don't have to move my hands at all to let her rip. (I resisted the temptation to install a "big rig sound" horn. I might be geeky, but I'm not weird!)

(Hey, if you're going to commute to work by bike, you might as well have as much fun as possible!)

Awesome! Still no pics though :D