Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Let's See the Clydesdale/Athena Vintage Rides....

A good excuse to post bike pics....

Let's see your vintage rides!

I'll start it off, a 1986 Schwinn Passage

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o260/TomStormcrowe/NewSaddle002-1.jpg

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o260/TomStormcrowe/UP2/UpperPeninsulaII073.jpg

1982 Schwinn Super Le Tour I rebuilt last year...

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1089/822204930_2a2048b378_b.jpg

1970 Raleigh Record rebuilt a bit this week , Rebuild (with some modern parts) still in progress
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q131/kennydakid/HPIM0939.jpg

EDIT: Here is an outdoor picture
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q131/kennydakid/HPIM0957.jpg

Do they have to be complete and drivable?

If not this is the one I'm working on:


73333

Schiwnn Voyager found on Craigslist for $60.00, Sad thing is I do not actually ride it much, One day Ill take it on a tour maybe

Vintage everything I ride falls into that catagory:thumb:
1982 ross eurotour 5 speed
!970 columbia rambler ballon tire
late 80's beach cruiser made in the U.S.A.
I have a german made bike that is disassembled to be painted the stumey-archer hub on it is a 56
And I just picked up a 1972 schwinn speedster 3-speed like new other than the tires show some dry rot this bike could pass for new It is raining to hard to get a good picture right now
I don't care for drop handlebars and the looks of most new bikes just don't excite me
Roy

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k317/East_Hill/My%20bikes/IMG_2329_2.jpg

East Hill

Thanks Tom
I haven't even had a chance to start wrenching in this one yet.
1980? Nishiki Olympic
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3259/2556595942_8c88a9f8e1.jpg
after
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3154/2571075650_a55c1f8ed4.jpg
1990 Schwinn Traveler
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3210/2518418211_303c1d41f4.jpg

Wow East Hill
and my wife can't figure out why I need 3 bikes
nice collection.

What a great thread. Combines my love of old school bikes with clyde forum. Now I don't have to click 2 forums.

Here's mine. 1995ish I think.
http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii55/coasting-cycling/1.jpg

Ain't she pretty?

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k317/East_Hill/My%20bikes/IMG_2329_2.jpg

East Hill

Holy cannoli! Are they all yours?

Age unknown, so I'll call it Vintage (still currently made, though):
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z172/stephenhazelton/MiscBikePhotos/TheThing-1.jpg

Actually, I've got a Free Spirit 3-speed that is "vintage" also, but no photos of it. And I can't ride it, either.

Gina's $40 1984 Bianchi:D
We dropped about $400 to fix it up a bit, Gears, rims and a few other things. She put about 10,000 miles on it before we bought her CF roadie. But no way will she give up the Bianchi!:D

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l267/gulpxtreme/Bianchi.jpg

I have a 1989 Schwinn World Sport waiting to be rebuilt into an around town bike. I also have a stock 1996 Specialized Stumpjumper that is in near mint condition. It was the last year they made steel stumpjumpers so I'm calling it vintage. I also had a '92 Bridgestone MB5, but I gave it away to someone who would ride it. One vintage steel mtb is a enough I guess.

My Vintage ride is not in use, but maybe I'll have it road worthy soon.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=421635

It's a 1972 Schwinn Road Race Paramount, I am the original owner. I rode it for 10 years. It then was repainted and rebuilt by the factory in Chicago in 1982. Only a 100 miles on the rebuild. I'm posting this for fun, its not for sale.

I worked at George Garner Cyclery of Northbrook, IL back in 1972. I was 16 years old and spent most on my income on the bike, $600. The last time I rode it, I was 25 years younger and 50 Lbs lighter!


Michael

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k317/East_Hill/My%20bikes/IMG_2329_2.jpg

East Hill

Good Grief!

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2391/2250286523_a40289d88e.jpg
1977 Schwinn Le Tour II - My dumpster find turned commuter

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2049/2251081726_4fa366271c.jpg
1986 Diamond Back Ascent - the $40 Craig's List find that got it all started for me last September

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k317/East_Hill/My%20bikes/IMG_2329_2.jpg

East Hill

I wanna know what the 3rd one in is, the orange one? Is it a Motobecane Team bike?

She has 11 bikes. She must be the richest girl in the world!

This is a 1948 Shelby that I rebuilt for my mother-in-law for Christmas, does this count?????

http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x139/rohs1982/2007%20Indianola%20Balloon%20Races/generic/nancy_4.jpg

Wow East Hill
and my wife can't figure out why I need 3 bikes
nice collection.

Uh, one for every day of the week, plus a backup for each day of the week?


Holy cannoli! Are they all yours?

Yes, all mine :) .


I wanna know what the 3rd one in is, the orange one? Is it a Motobecane Team bike?

From front to back:

1977 Richard Sachs, with 24 inch wheels
1980 World Sport Ladies model
199? Rodriguez, with 650b wheels. This is my only bike with a triple, and it's the one you are asking about.
1987 Nishiki Prestige
1987 Centurion Dave Scott Ironman
1980 Centurion LeMans Mixte
1984? Nishiki Sports Mixte
1983 Nishiki International
1979 Nishiki Professional
198? Woodrup (still being built there)
1984? Fuji Thrill rigid mountain bike


She has 11 bikes. She must be the richest girl in the world!

I didn't get the Nishiki Olympic in the photo, so there's actually 12 bikes altogether.

All the bikes cost less than $1000 total.

East Hill

And everyone, I am enjoying looking at all the vintage rides! As you can tell, I love my vintage bikes :D .

East Hill

Maybe it's just me, but I think 12 bikes is a nice round number, although I would add 2 more and have a nice even 2 week rotation, lol.

I've owned a vintage bike for a total of 4 days now, and already have a line on 2 more from good friends. Both are from people I have a real connection, with and would be something that I could never let go of if they do indeed end up here.

My wife had visible shudder when I used the terms "vintage" and "bicycle" in the same sentence. She has had a long standing and stalwart tolerance for a vintage motorcycle fetish of mine. She hasn't parked in the garage for years, and resigned herself to having a mere walk way through the bikes and parts.

I told her that with my declining back and knee issues, it might be time to drastically thin the herd of motorcycles, save for one or two that have some serious sentimental value. I have this emotional attachment problem that I hope to never lose, lol. She immediately realized that bicycles would be smaller than motorcycles, and figured they would probably be cheaper as well. This has some possibilities.......

I do wonder what the magic number will be when she figures out that smaller and cheaper translates to MORE MORE MORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:D I seem to have this obsessive compulsive disorder that requires an example of each model from specific years from a specific manufacturer with motorcycles. I hope it doesn't manifest itself with bicycles too, lol.

I need a vintage, ive been looking localy and on CL for about a year now...its usually gone when i get there are the frame is about rusted in half

I need a vintage, ive been looking localy and on CL for about a year now...its usually gone when i get there are the frame is about rusted in half

Where are you located? What size are you looking for?

East Hill

Maybe it's just me, but I think 12 bikes is a nice round number, although I would add 2 more and have a nice even 2 week rotation, lol.



There's actually fourteen in the household, because Mr. East Hill has a newish Trek 4300, and a 1980 Schwinn LeTour :) .

http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k317/East_Hill/IMG_0385.jpg

One of my favourite photos, this is Mr. East Hill's LeTour, and my Centurion Dave Scott Ironman.

East Hill

I need a vintage, ive been looking localy and on CL for about a year now...its usually gone when i get there are the frame is about rusted in half

The last 3 or 4 bikes I've bought have found me, not the other way around.

Where are you located? What size are you looking for?

East Hill


Im in missouri, Im looking for steel, hopefully lugged and dreaming of italian. Im odd shaped all body no legs.my six two body only has about a 32 inseam. I want to go single speed or fixed. if its nice with good components i must just restore it and leave it as is. Im thinking 56/58 on the size.

Great little thread, nice bikes. Keep the pics a coming.

Uh, one for every day of the week, plus a backup for each day of the week?

Yes, all mine :) .

From front to back:

1977 Richard Sachs, with 24 inch wheels
1980 World Sport Ladies model
199? Rodriguez, with 650b wheels. This is my only bike with a triple, and it's the one you are asking about.
1987 Nishiki Prestige
1987 Centurion Dave Scott Ironman
1980 Centurion LeMans Mixte
1984? Nishiki Sports Mixte
1983 Nishiki International
1979 Nishiki Professional
198? Woodrup (still being built there)
1984? Fuji Thrill rigid mountain bike

I didn't get the Nishiki Olympic in the photo, so there's actually 12 bikes altogether.

All the bikes cost less than $1000 total.

East Hill

Don't forget the candy red Dr.Deltron mixte that will one day find its way from CA to WA. :notamused:

Here's my latest project, painted by the master himself (see above), "Sporty" a '72 Schwinn Super Sport that has been modifidied with generous amounts of Campagnolo. :D

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p71/pastorbobnlnh/Super%20Sports/SportyCabled.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p71/pastorbobnlnh/Super%20Sports/SportyFrontView.jpg

Some beautiful bikes you folks have here!!!
I used to have a 72-73 Raleigh Professional that I sold a few years back. It was my first road bike back in
'87. Man was it a nice ride!

EastHill...........I remember that Dave Scott Centurion when it was new and drooling over it in the Centurion book! Very nice collection!!!

Im thinking about another geared road bike, and Im thinking Im gonna go vintage!

I need to break down and buy a digital camera. :cry:

Here's mine: 1993 Campus Cicli
It's my current commuter and bad weather bike.
Everything, but the rear wheel is original, which I replaced last year with a Mavic OpenPro. The rear rim cracked :(
http://gallery.geekazoids.net/d/4416-2/IMG_0303.JPG
http://gallery.geekazoids.net/d/4435-2/IMG_0310.JPG

1979 Motobecane Grand Jubilee.

Or just have the images scanned to a CD-ROM at Walmart whan you have the film developed.. ;)


I need to break down and buy a digital camera. :cry:

My 1977 Nishiki International:

http://keithmo.com/Biking/Bikes/Nishiki1/DSCN0377.JPG

It's my "fair weather bike", so therefore I haven't ridden it much lately :(.

Thanks Tom
I haven't even had a chance to start wrenching in this one yet.
1980? Nishiki Olympic


This thread contains information on decoding Nishiki serial numbers: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=390318

One day I'll get a vintage bike I can ride. :(

This thread contains information on decoding Nishiki serial numbers: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=390318

Thank you and yes I've seen that thread but mine starts with a "N" and the info in the Nishiki threas says this so I'm kind confused.


Serial number format XYZZZZZ where:

X is a letter indicating the market using the following codes:
C = Canada (pre-1985)
K = USA (pre 1985)
W = USA (1985-1987*)

I love seing the pictures of the bikes that PastorBob's wrenches produce.

(My first post here - please forgive the length)

This year I discovered Rivendell and what I think of as the quality bikes for non-competitive riders movement. I realized that in many ways I liked my old Trek road bike more than my “new” (year 2000) Specialized Allez Comp. The Specialized was just too race oriented and frankly I’m not. So I set out to turn my old bike into the bike I really wanted.

I’m 6 foot 240 lbs., so with just me and the bare bike I’m already heavier than many bikes fully loaded for cross country touring. Race-light components are clearly silly for me at this point. Strength, durability, and comfort are now the important factors.

So the starting point was my 1984 Trek 610 22.5” road bike with “Sport” (in-between race and touring) geometry and lugged Reynolds 531CS frame. (I am the original owner of this bike.)

From the 1984 Trek catalog:
http://home.comcast.net/~jacora/Bicycle/Trek610_Original.jpg

I have replaced all of the original components except:
• Original Frame and Fork.
• Original Stronglight B-10 needle-bearing headset.
• Original SR P5 Laprade seatpost.
• Original Shimano 600 brake levers.
• Original Shimano 600 side-pull brakes.

In the late 80’s I had done some upgrades to this bike. At that time I upgraded to 7-spd indexed (still down-tube shifters), and went to 700cc wheels. I also added SPD pedals, changed the saddle, added a mirror, replaced brake lever hoods, and brake cable wires/housings. From that upgrade the only things still on the bike are the mirror, the brake hoods and the nice golden-yellow (mustard?) colored brake cable housings. I’m really glad I still have that mirror, because you can’t get the kind that go where the brake cable comes out of the top of the brake hood anymore!

Around 2001 (after buying the Specialized Allez Comp) I got a Look Ergo-stem (threaded) for the Trek on Ebay. At that time I relegated the Trek for use on an indoor trainer and I figured the Ergo stem would allow me to setup the Trek to match the fit of Specialized so that going from the indoor bike to my “real” bike would be as seamless as possible. Now I’m glad I bought the Ergo stem for the opposite reason; because it allows me to set up the Trek very differently from the Specialized’s racing fit!

Around that time I switched to Speedplay Frog pedals on my road and mountain bikes because they are easier on the knees than SPDs. I’m still using those.

This year was a complete rebuild. Here’s the list of new parts:



Wheels/Tires
Mavic A719 (touring) rims with Shimano 105 hubs. 36 spokes on both front and back – These are pretty bulletproof
Jack Brown 33.5 mm tires from Rivendell
I spread the frame using Sheldon Brown’s cold setting instructions to fit the 130 mm spacing of the new rear wheel (was 126 mm) Crankset/Bottom Bracket
Sugino XD2 (XD500) 48-36-24 compact triple 172.5 mm crank length. I don’t know if these are available anymore. The newer ones don’t seem to come in the 172.5 length and the big rings are 46 instead of 48. I feel lucky to have gotten this when I did.
The bottom bracket is a Shimano UN-54 110 mm. (I couldn’t justify the extra money for the Phil Wood). These days the Shimano UN BBs come through with the adjustable-side ring made out of plastic, but the LBS where I got this one had some of the older metal rings in a box, so now it’s an all metal BBDerailleurs
Front - Interloc Racing Design (I.R.D.) Alpina (Compatible with both the compact triple crank and Shimano road indexed shifting in case I ever go to STI Brifters)
Rear - Shimano Ultegra 6600-GS (mid-cage road-triple type) Cassette
Shimano Ultegra 9 speed 11-23 cassette (11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23)
Since I was upgrading all the drive train parts, I had a choice of going 9 or 10 speed. I chose 9 speed for greater durability.
With the 48-36-24 chain rings, I was able to go with this tight cassette in the back. This allows me to better dial in the exact gear for comfortable cadence. But I still have a great gear range. My low gear is 24/23 which is lower than a 30/28 on a standard road triple, and my high gear, 48/11, is slightly higher than a road triple with 52/12 high gear. I’m really happy with this gearing setup.Shifters
Shimano Dura-Ace 7700 9sp bar-end shifters.
This is my first experience with bar-end shifters. I really like the Shimano STI Brifters on my Specialized, and I was worried that after putting so much into rebuilding the Trek that I would regret using an “out-dated” shifting setup. Ultimately it was price consideration that made me go with the bar-ends. Now after using them I’m glad I made that choice. The bar-ends are great! And additionally I get the piece of mind of having friction mode available if things get out of whack in the middle of a long ride for whatever reason. Handlebar and Tape
The bar is a Nitto Noodle 48 cm. This is a wide bar! It’s great when you stop worrying about component weight how you are free to get comfortable parts like this!
The bar tape is standard yellow (synthetic) cork. To make it better match the bike and to give it a cool retro leather like look, I applied amber shellac. I learned this trick from the Rivendell site. I love the results. Saddle
Brooks B-17 Special Honey. This is my first Brooks and I was worried about the break-in period, but I found it comfortable right away.Misc
I put a rear rack on; it’s an inexpensive Topeak Explorer. I have one on my mountain bike and I like being able to slide and click the Topeak MTX bag onto either bike. The interesting part is the Trek has no seat-stay braze-ons, because in the old days you would attach the rack to the brake bolt. I found that Tubus makes stainless seat-stay mounts that wrap around the stays. These worked great.


For brake pads I followed Sheldon Brown’s recommendation for the best ones made; they’re the Kool Stop Dual Compound Threaded V-Brake Pads.


I replaced my brake cables with fresh stainless ones. With my new higher handlebar height I’m slightly concerned that my brake cable housings are a little short. However finding housings in that perfect golden yellow color is now difficult. If I come across any I’ll likely replace them.


Finally there is the Topeak frame pump, a Cateye TL-LD1100 tail light, Topeak bottle cage, Polar insulated bttle, and a Cateye V2c wireless computer.I sprayed frame-saver in the frame, overhauled the headset, and used touch-up paint on the (many) places where it was needed while I was at it. Admittedly this was also the very first time I ever waxed the bike.

Here’s the result:

http://home.comcast.net/~jacora/Bicycle/IMG_0530_small.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jacora/Bicycle/IMG_0532_small.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jacora/Bicycle/IMG_0536_small.jpg

I might have committed blasphemy by "hacking up" a vintage Nishiki Prestige but I did save all the original parts!

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b98/lstiffler/junk/0611081814-00.jpg

It's only a hack job if you ground off all the brazeons and dérailleur hanger....

If they are still intact, it's simply a reversible conversion to fixed gear.


I might have committed blasphemy by "hacking up" a vintage Nishiki Prestige but I did save all the original parts!

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b98/lstiffler/junk/0611081814-00.jpg

I found my first "real" bike on CL earlier this week:

1987? Trek 400D Elance
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb84/skierd007/bikes/trek400elance.jpg

Pretty sure its all original except for the tires. As I'm a poor college student its probably going to stay that way until something breaks.

Here is my '53 Schwinn DX Klunker. Not a thing on the frame is original, and I brazed the cantilever bosses on myself. It is a pretty nice riding trail bike, in fact I like riding it so much a can't bring myself to take it back apart to have the frame powdercoated.

She just followed me home last night. Note the non Clyde approved wheel set, and the solution...

http://www.garberdesign.com/bike/almostThere.jpg

55cm Trek 760. A little on the small size for me; so I'll be getting a larger seat post soon, and hopefully the drop wont kill me ;-) .

First good bike and a great reason to pitch the Kalkhoff, a Schwinn World Voyager, I bought used in 1988,
Came with 333 high flange hubs 27" Gentelman rims, Dura Ace crank, 600 sidepulls, friction onlySuntour barends shifting a just before index 600 rear derailer, orange paint over a cromed made in Japan frame.

Changes I made when I bought it, Matthauser finned pads for the front, 600 EX 6sp index drive train including downtube shifters, Brooks saddle, Hi-Lite Tour tires, widist shallow drop handlebar I could find. I still haven't found a stem I'm happy with. Right now its in side unused because I have been riding the gravel roads and I want to avoid more dings.

My gravel bike is a Schwinn Traveler in psudo celest green with security chain rash, 700c wheels now with Conti Avenue tires and a sprung Brooks saddle.

It's not that I'm a big Schwinn fan, just seem thats what I find when looking for lugged steel frames.

I need to get a group photo of these and all the rest.

(My first post here - please forgive the length)

This year I discovered Rivendell and what I think of as the quality bikes for non-competitive riders movement. I realized that in many ways I liked my old Trek road bike more than my “new” (year 2000) Specialized Allez Comp. The Specialized was just too race oriented and frankly I’m not. So I set out to turn my old bike into the bike I really wanted.

I’m 6 foot 240 lbs., so with just me and the bare bike I’m already heavier than many bikes fully loaded for cross country touring. Race-light components are clearly silly for me at this point. Strength, durability, and comfort are now the important factors.

So the starting point was my 1984 Trek 610 22.5” road bike with “Sport” (in-between race and touring) geometry and lugged Reynolds 531CS frame. (I am the original owner of this bike.)

From the 1984 Trek catalog:
http://home.comcast.net/~jacora/Bicycle/Trek610_Original.jpg

I have replaced all of the original components except:
• Original Frame and Fork.
• Original Stronglight B-10 needle-bearing headset.
• Original SR P5 Laprade seatpost.
• Original Shimano 600 brake levers.
• Original Shimano 600 side-pull brakes.

In the late 80’s I had done some upgrades to this bike. At that time I upgraded to 7-spd indexed (still down-tube shifters), and went to 700cc wheels. I also added SPD pedals, changed the saddle, added a mirror, replaced brake lever hoods, and brake cable wires/housings. From that upgrade the only things still on the bike are the mirror, the brake hoods and the nice golden-yellow (mustard?) colored brake cable housings. I’m really glad I still have that mirror, because you can’t get the kind that go where the brake cable comes out of the top of the brake hood anymore!

Around 2001 (after buying the Specialized Allez Comp) I got a Look Ergo-stem (threaded) for the Trek on Ebay. At that time I relegated the Trek for use on an indoor trainer and I figured the Ergo stem would allow me to setup the Trek to match the fit of Specialized so that going from the indoor bike to my “real” bike would be as seamless as possible. Now I’m glad I bought the Ergo stem for the opposite reason; because it allows me to set up the Trek very differently from the Specialized’s racing fit!

Around that time I switched to Speedplay Frog pedals on my road and mountain bikes because they are easier on the knees than SPDs. I’m still using those.

This year was a complete rebuild. Here’s the list of new parts:



Wheels/Tires
Mavic A719 (touring) rims with Shimano 105 hubs. 36 spokes on both front and back – These are pretty bulletproof
Jack Brown 33.5 mm tires from Rivendell
I spread the frame using Sheldon Brown’s cold setting instructions to fit the 130 mm spacing of the new rear wheel (was 126 mm) Crankset/Bottom Bracket
Sugino XD2 (XD500) 48-36-24 compact triple 172.5 mm crank length. I don’t know if these are available anymore. The newer ones don’t seem to come in the 172.5 length and the big rings are 46 instead of 48. I feel lucky to have gotten this when I did.
The bottom bracket is a Shimano UN-54 110 mm. (I couldn’t justify the extra money for the Phil Wood). These days the Shimano UN BBs come through with the adjustable-side ring made out of plastic, but the LBS where I got this one had some of the older metal rings in a box, so now it’s an all metal BBDerailleurs
Front - Interloc Racing Design (I.R.D.) Alpina (Compatible with both the compact triple crank and Shimano road indexed shifting in case I ever go to STI Brifters)
Rear - Shimano Ultegra 6600-GS (mid-cage road-triple type) Cassette
Shimano Ultegra 9 speed 11-23 cassette (11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23)
Since I was upgrading all the drive train parts, I had a choice of going 9 or 10 speed. I chose 9 speed for greater durability.
With the 48-36-24 chain rings, I was able to go with this tight cassette in the back. This allows me to better dial in the exact gear for comfortable cadence. But I still have a great gear range. My low gear is 24/23 which is lower than a 30/28 on a standard road triple, and my high gear, 48/11, is slightly higher than a road triple with 52/12 high gear. I’m really happy with this gearing setup.Shifters
Shimano Dura-Ace 7700 9sp bar-end shifters.
This is my first experience with bar-end shifters. I really like the Shimano STI Brifters on my Specialized, and I was worried that after putting so much into rebuilding the Trek that I would regret using an “out-dated” shifting setup. Ultimately it was price consideration that made me go with the bar-ends. Now after using them I’m glad I made that choice. The bar-ends are great! And additionally I get the piece of mind of having friction mode available if things get out of whack in the middle of a long ride for whatever reason. Handlebar and Tape
The bar is a Nitto Noodle 48 cm. This is a wide bar! It’s great when you stop worrying about component weight how you are free to get comfortable parts like this!
The bar tape is standard yellow (synthetic) cork. To make it better match the bike and to give it a cool retro leather like look, I applied amber shellac. I learned this trick from the Rivendell site. I love the results. Saddle
Brooks B-17 Special Honey. This is my first Brooks and I was worried about the break-in period, but I found it comfortable right away.Misc
I put a rear rack on; it’s an inexpensive Topeak Explorer. I have one on my mountain bike and I like being able to slide and click the Topeak MTX bag onto either bike. The interesting part is the Trek has no seat-stay braze-ons, because in the old days you would attach the rack to the brake bolt. I found that Tubus makes stainless seat-stay mounts that wrap around the stays. These worked great.


For brake pads I followed Sheldon Brown’s recommendation for the best ones made; they’re the Kool Stop Dual Compound Threaded V-Brake Pads.


I replaced my brake cables with fresh stainless ones. With my new higher handlebar height I’m slightly concerned that my brake cable housings are a little short. However finding housings in that perfect golden yellow color is now difficult. If I come across any I’ll likely replace them.


Finally there is the Topeak frame pump, a Cateye TL-LD1100 tail light, Topeak bottle cage, Polar insulated bttle, and a Cateye V2c wireless computer.I sprayed frame-saver in the frame, overhauled the headset, and used touch-up paint on the (many) places where it was needed while I was at it. Admittedly this was also the very first time I ever waxed the bike.

Here’s the result:

http://home.comcast.net/~jacora/Bicycle/IMG_0530_small.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jacora/Bicycle/IMG_0532_small.JPG

http://home.comcast.net/~jacora/Bicycle/IMG_0536_small.jpg

very cool build. I would like to bump up to a modern wheelset on teh bike i just bought. How difficult was it to "spread" the frame apart?

I posted it in another thread but why not here? This is a recent find.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y27/nismoclassic/001-2.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y27/nismoclassic/002-2.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y27/nismoclassic/005-2.jpg