Road Bike Racing - Should I keep 56t chainring?

I recently upgraded from my OEM FSA 53t double to a DA crankset + new BB...

Little did I know that the new chainring was 56t !!!

I adjusted the FD and thought nothing of it.... been riding it for 2 weeks now, no problems.

So, wtf should I do?

I can't decide. The bike shop offered to swap for a 53 nc so I can go back to "normal" for free...

I've ridden 150 miles on the 56t ring and it feels all good, I had no idea it was a 56t and I was pushing it like a madman + made it work for me with top speed = 33mph which I have achieved previously with a 53t ring without any major effort difference..

What would you do? ???

assuming we're talking a road bike, not a TT bike, even in Florida, I'd go for the 53

533/39 front and 11/23 in the back will give you a dcent range, and all the high gear anyone short of Boonen could need.

the 53/39 setup will be a touch lighter.

And you'll have all the top end you can use, and still a decnt low gear with the 39 if you ever ride outside South Florida. (and with the 56, you can't run the 39, at least within spec.)

IMHO, 56 tooth chain rings are for some specific TT applications, and world class riders.

But to answr this thread for yourself, go here http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/

Use your desired cadence, and the speed you can hold, and produce gear charts using the calculator. From that you should be able to see wht combos will work for you. Noting redunancies, and cross over points.

IMHO, 56 tooth chain rings are for some specific TT applications, and world class riders.

Not fully +1-ing this. I mean, I agree with it, but...

When I was younger, I bought a team bike from the Saturn Cycling Team at the end of the 1994 season, and was alarmed to see that it came with a 55t. I mean, I was so shocked at how fast the bike was, I had to stop, get off, and count the teeth right there along the road. Yep, 55.

I was younger then. I kept it. Loved it. Wish I could still push it. My knees threaten to leave me if I were to try it again.
A 56, though only a tiny tooth more, is a LOT bigger.

I'd keep it for that special occasion, and buy a 53 (or 54) for the regular riding.

Not fully +1-ing this. I mean, I agree with it, but...

When I was younger, I bought a team bike from the Saturn Cycling Team at the end of the 1994 season, and was alarmed to see that it came with a 55t. I mean, I was so shocked at how fast the bike was, I had to stop, get off, and count the teeth right there along the road. Yep, 55.

I was younger then. I kept it. Loved it. Wish I could still push it. My knees threaten to leave me if I were to try it again.
A 56, though only a tiny tooth more, is a LOT bigger.

I'd keep it for that special occasion, and buy a 53 (or 54) for the regular riding.

Or make a coffee table out of it.

I use a 54/39 setup on for road and TT. Shifting no problem. Rubbing no problem. I can't imagine how you run a 56 and don't have these problems unless you have a 42 on the low end. If that is the case, then you have to ask yourself not about the big one, but the small one.

I use a 54/39 setup on for road and TT. Shifting no problem. Rubbing no problem. I can't imagine how you run a 56 and don't have these problems unless you have a 42 on the low end. If that is the case, then you have to ask yourself not about the big one, but the small one.

When I installed the 56, I simply moved the FD up 1/2 inch and it worked like normal. I have an 11x23 ultegra cassette.

I swapped out the 56t for a 53t today (the shop swapped it for free even though I used it...) - THANKS BIG WHEEL !!!

I put the whole thingamajig back together today, and I did my own special work on the pedals that seem to be dragging a LOT... now they spin like mad !!!! (my secret recipe!).

I can't wait to try it out this weekend.


- Thanks for the input folks.