Road Cycling - Roadbike vs MTB ?!

Hi guys!

I am pretty new to cycling and I am planing to buy my first racer. I am 17 and I have completed alot of training sessions with my old MTB. But now I think it`s time to become serious, and therefore I am planing to buy the racer.

I am pretty fit, the reason why I started roadcycling is because I got a injury in my foot while running, so I decided to do something else instead.

I can hold about 18-20 mph on the endurance rides (30-50 miles)without working too hard. Now I wondered just how much my average speed would increase if byuing and cycle on a real racer instead of a MTB.

ok, do you road cycle with your mtb? i am getting the impression that you are using a mtb on the road. if you are, and you are using studed tires. then you will definatly see an increase in speed. if you can go 20mph with studed tires, then probably with the same amount of work you could see speeds of 24mph.

posted this a couple of months ago...

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I tried using my xc mtb on one of my routes (roadbike routes -- highway), just a few minutes ago.

The experience was cool.. here's what I have found out.

Total Distance: 26km
Road: Very smooth asphalt road (highway)
Traffic: light, high speed; 100kmh speed limit(cars)
Weather: slight headwind, cloudy, cool (about 28 deg C).

Roadbike
Gearing: 52T-42T. 12T-23TCassette; didn't have the chance to use the big ring.
Wheels/Tires: 700c, 700x23C Maxxis
weight: 18.5lbs
Top speed: 46kmh
Ave speed: 32kmh
Fun Level: Excellent


MTB (hardtail)
Gearing:44-32-22T. 11-32TCassette
Wheels/Tires: 26", 26x2.1 WTB NanoRaptor
Weight: 26lbs
Top speed: 35kmh
Ave speed: 23kmh
Fun Level: Good workout; won't be taking this route again on this bike...

Anyway, this numbers seem to be correct..

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i hope it helps..

if you look at it... there is a 39% increase in average speed (MTB vs Road) in my trials...
I know this may differ from person to person and the situation/environment/wind etc...

dex

Yeah, I use my MTB for roadracing.

Ohh man, it seems to be a great difference in the average speed when changing from the MTB to a racer.

Too bad I have to wait another four months until I can get out on the rood, Sweden is a cold country ;)

No question! Road bike for the road and MTB for off road!

If you plan to race you need a true road bike!! I just got my first real road bike after riding on a converted commuter (MTB with road wheels). The road bike is way faster!!

Of course, it is also a lot more money!!

Buy a cyclocross! Keep the knobbies for light off-road and then put some slicks on it for road rides!

Yep, it's a compromise, so you won't be as fast in either condition, but you'll have a very versatile bike!

L8R

2.1" Nanoraptors? You know, it might help a little to get some different tires for road... something smaller and smoother? Still won't give you what you got on the road bike - road bike is lighter and has drop bars no? But still, the comparison with those tires isn't that great. Throw some 1" 120psi turbo's on there, then I'd like to see the numbers...

hmm, I think I will go for the real roadbike.

I have thought a little bit on the Bianchi Sora or a Trek 1000. Any thoughts about which one is the best?!

/alex

Shop around for good deals (LBS & on line, Ebay, etc), they're out there if you care to put a little effort in your search, and if you don't care to get a 2003 model.
I got my two Bianchi bikes off a dealer who posted on Ebay: Bianchi Vigorelli '03 for $1,099 and the Volpe '03 for $ 530.00, in both cases savings of $ 400.00 on each bike!
Don't rush into a purchase, read, research and get the best bike for your money.
Corsaire

hmm, you are right, I checked eBay a few minutes ago and the prices are REALLY low..... for some bikes.

But first of all... can you really buy the bike from eBay without getting cheated or something? Some precis are redicilous low.

And the second problem, how do I get the bike to Sweden? Are there companies willing to deliver it to Stockholm?


by the way, thanks for all the tips, I really need them!

hmm, you are right, I checked eBay a few minutes ago and the prices are REALLY low..... for some bikes.

But first of all... can you really buy the bike from eBay without getting cheated or something? Some precis are redicilous low.

And the second problem, how do I get the bike to Sweden? Are there companies willing to deliver it to Stockholm?


by the way, thanks for all the tips, I really need them!

You can get really cheap bikes and components on eBay. Don't pay too much attention to the prices of current auctions, though... with the proxy bidding system used on eBay many bidders won't place bids until the final minutes to avoid being outbid. If you're interested in a certain type of bike, I'd recommend watching a few auctions using the 'My eBay' section to get a good feel for what is a reasonable price to pay by looking at the final prices, particularly where the reserve price was met.

As to not getting cheated - I only deal with reputable sellers who have completed a fair number of transactions (at least 50, but preferably more). Check their feedback, and make sure they have plenty of good feedback as a seller, not just as a buyer.

For shipping - check with the individual sellers as to where they're prepared to ship. Most sellers will ship anywhere for you, but since the buyer is usually up for all shipping costs I'd hazard a guess that the cost of shipping and possible import duties may make the eBay transaction no longer worthwhile for you. You may get better shipping deals from the European instances of eBay, but the deals might not be quite as good as in the US. Even for me buying in the US, I couldn't justify the slight saving (around $50-150 on the bikes I was looking at) given that buying from an LBS gives me a free fitting and lifetime tuneups and adjustments, not to mention the value of the relationship.

booyah is right US Ebay might not be cost effective for you, living in Sverige.
The way I did it on Ebay was by bidding on a seller who lived in NY, 50' by car from where I live, this way I could choose to pick up the bikes myself upon inspection, I played it safe after a bad experience when I received a defective bike via UPS.
Karp, du maste kopa billig, sa mycket sa mogligt...lycka till darfor att Sverige ar jette dyrt! hej!
Corsaire

HAHa, tack for hjalpen!!

Ar du svensk ocksa?!

If you can afford it, keep away from Sora bikes.... no end of trouble.....

Brendon

really? I have heard that you should be able to trust a Sora.

Is it better going for the trek 1000 or are all the cheap (cheap!) racers as bad as the Bianchi Sora?

Bianchi ar bast, punkt! Sora eller inte Sora...Bianchi bestamens...

Lycka till
Corsaire

Is the Bianchi Sora a European model? or are you talking about a Bianchi bike with Shimano Sora groupset?

Sora is the entry level Shimano group. It's not bad for what it is, but doesn't shift nearly as crisply or last as well as Tiagra or 105. I'd suggest you ride various bikes with different equipment levels to feel the difference. I think NZLcyclist has/had a Sora equiped bike and experienced what a few people I know experienced as well: the components (particularly crank and cassette) wore out very quickly compared to the life expectency of higher level components.

Any of the cheap bikes would be fine so long as it fits you and is comfortable. If you can spring for the extra cash, I'd highly recommend aiming for a Trek 1200 or similar level bike. You'll get a much better level of equipment for not much more cash.

If you are tootling around not much speed etc, I wouldn't say no to Sora....that's what my road bike was for originally. Just to toodle around and maybe do some metric century rides. Then the racing bug bit and didn't let go!

First to crap out was the bottom bracket after (wait for it) only 3,000km! (replaced with bb UN73 Ultegra? BB)

Then a few chains before a new cassette at about 7,000km, and new chain rings after 8,600 (although should have replaced earlier.)

Currently running a cassette slightly higher end than the Sora one (8 spd) and Ultegra chainrings and chain. The shifting leaves alot to desire.... it is very dificult to adjust the front deraileur to a point where you can use the minimal trimming to stop the chain rubbing.

How much do you weigh? even at my weight of 152 lbs (69kg) I started popping spokes, so if you can afford it either get some hand built wheels OR get the machine built ones retensioned by a pro wheel builder.


Regards and good luck,
Brendon

I'm 192 and never broke or popped a spoke.I just got a pair of Mavic K Elites.Go to roadbikereview and read what some say about the bikes you have looked at.

I weight about 67 kg (147 lbs...I think)

The Mavic K's and other high end stock wheels should not cause any problems, it's the cheaper machine built ones with standard rims that come with the likes of a Sora equipped bike.

Regards,
Brendon

I don't know specifially about the Bianchi bike, but I would definately agree that the better components are worth shooting for. The difference in performance and durability is worth every bit of the cost (although it is up front cost). I put Ultegra on my commuter when I converted it and did it over a few months and got the STI shifters for my birthday!!

Price is always a factor and NOTHING bike related is cheep!!

If you can afford to put the money into it, the Lemond Bueons Aris is a great bike (I just got one for Christmas). The big difference between it and the Alp H'duez is that it has more Ultegra componants and better wheels. Otherwise they are about the same. You may want to look at the Lemond (actually now owned by Teck)

Bill

Cheers for the help mates, appreciate it!

I just got a trek 1000....i have not had a chance to ride too much, its been very cold...but so far i like it very much....

Go for the Trek a 5200 if you can;)

haha, sure, but the trek 5200 will cost more than 2000, won`t it?

Hi,
consider getting a used bike. You can find a lot of bikes used that mostly just sat in the garage. This will require learning
which of the older bikes is a gem, and some patience in tracking one down. Alternatively, there are a number of smaller companies that compete against guys like Trek by having a lower price.
Felt,Jamis, there are many. In any case, the thing to do is to go find some bikes and give them a test ride. The most important thing is finding a good fit. Don't worry too much about the components. If it's used, they will be really good. If it's new, you can replace them with better ones as they wear out. Stock saddles are pretty cheap; I would consider getting a better one when you buy the bike. You will only get a couple dollars trade in for the new one; but the dealer will be strongly motivated to find you a saddle you like to close the deal. I just discovered the Selle Italia Trans Am FLX saddle, and am very impressed with it.