240lbs and want a carbon bike-HELP

[orangeblood96]

I hope you all can help me. I am currently weighing in at 240lbs. My weight should be at 200lbs. I am 5'11" . DId plenty of eating during my wife's pregnancy and now need to take it off. I have been looking at the Treks and Orca. I am not sure if wheels are more important than frame. I live in south Texas and it is flat. I wont be doing any climbs. But i am looking for a solid bike that i can ride to lose weight and hopefully enter in some triathlons. I am currently riding 100-125 miles a week and would like to get to 300miles. I am currently riding an old 1996 Trek mountain bike with road tires. would like to upgrade. my budget is about 4k. Can you all recommend a bike for me? i really apprecite your help

[v1k1ng1001]

Welcome to the forums! :thumb:

$4k will buy you a lot of bike and 240 lbs isn't that heavy so don't panic!

Besides Trek and Orca, what other brands are in your area? What have you ridden and liked?

Oh, and I'm moving down to Edinburg in about a month! :beer:

[bobjenkins79]

I've got a specialized Allez Elite. I weighed around 280 when I bought it, and it's been good to me. It costme right about $1k before I started adding gizmos, pedals, etc.

[late]

Get two bikes, but not immediately.

You want a bike to get in shape with. In between racy bikes and hybrids is the traditional sport bike. It will have the saddle at about the same level as the bars.

There recently has been a new category of high performance bikes with a plush ride. Specialized started the trend with the Roubaix.
http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=33546

You can find variations on the theme in Ti and steel. Actually, Waterford does custom steel and you'd be surprised how nice that can be.

Once you start riding with various groups, you'll have a better idea of what your
next step should be.

Test ride a bunch of bikes, you'll have questions about them, we'll be here.

[-holiday76]

I mean, spend what you want, it's your money, but if you weight 240 or even 200, I don't know why you'd spend the extra cash to save even 5 pounds in bicycle weight.

If you just like carbon, well ok, but aside from that I don't get it.

[orangeblood96]

i am open to any brand. i have just heard great things about both those bikes

[Bone Head]

I'm a newbie and have been riding my '06 Giant OCR Limited (carbon) a bit over a year with no problems.
http://archive.giant-bicycles.com/us...06&model=11445 I picked it up as a "year-end closeout" for $1300 before add-ons.
I'm 5'10" & 240 and have not had any problems with the frame or wheels. Beefier (higher spoke count) wheels are generally recommended for a clydesdale.

[orangeblood96]

you guys have been a great help. I dont have to have a carbon bike. i was hoping to grow with my bike so to speak. I have been riding my mtb with road tires and that has been fine. I just dont want to buy a bike that cant carry by 240lbs frame.

[st0ut]

Any road bike is going to feel like a rocket compared to your MTB. As a former carbon rider myself. I would go with a aluminum frame with a carbon fork and save 3 G. The difference is Ferrari or Mustang.

However my current ride is all steel baby.

[meanwhile]

I mean, spend what you want, it's your money, but if you weight 240 or even 200, I don't know why you'd spend the extra cash to save even 5 pounds in bicycle weight.


Especially if you're trying to lose weight by burning extra calories...

The main problem with carbon frames isn't that they're carbon, but that (logically enough) they're designed for people who are willing to pay dearly for a final racing edge. You pay a lot more, get a bike that's likely to be much more delicate and have a shorter life, and get a 0.5% performance edge. Worth it when it's the difference between winning and losing a race you've trained all year for, perhaps, but not really sensible otherwise.

Buy a reasonably priced tough road bike instead. If you live somewhere with real winters and plan to go on riding, consider a cyclocross bike - tougher frame, lets you fit wider wheels, stronger brakes. $1000 would buy a nice Surly Crosscheck. Get a second race-only bike later if you really become dedicated to the sport.

[st0ut]

BTW i am doing a TRI on a touring bike.
And there is also the DREAM factor.

How many other sports do you get to race the SAME kit as the pros. If it has always been your dream to have the same bike as a racing idol of yours and you can do it. Do it.
Do not abondon your dream just cause the clydes and athnea yahoo said not to.

other than that all advise is valid.

[Tom Stormcrowe]

Take a peek at the Tarmac from Specialized if you want cf. It's a great ride, with lots of zoot ;)

[wibnrml]

I am 6 ft. 245. Bought a '06 Specialized Roubaix Elite all carbon frame for around $2K. My reasoning for carbon is for damping vibrations from the crappy chip seal roads in my area. Also am looking in to growing into the bike. I see no reason why I would have to 'put up' with a bike with less features or more weight if I can justify in my mind the cost. And really, we are only talking several hundred dollars here. If you are seriously going to put the miles in and get the use out of the bike, by all means, spend what you’re comfortable with.
And as far as my bike is concerned? It's been worth every penny.

[cohophysh]

If you want carbon, buy a carbon...tom is right about the specialized...nice bikes...ride all the models you can then make a decision. I know what you mean by wanting to grow into the bike...good luck and post pictures after you have bought it.

[Richard_Rides]

you guys have been a great help. I dont have to have a carbon bike.

The harsh reality these days is, if you want a bike with very good Ultegra or better components, you can only find these on carbon frames. The major manufacturers want you to buy carbon so that's where they've put the top quality components.

Carbon is not about being a weight weenie either, carbon fiber absorbs high frequency vibrations giving a smother, less fatiguing ride.

If you want a good bike with quality components and have a budget of $4000 I WOULD HIGHLY RECOMMEND A SPECIALIZED ROUBAIX PRO (http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=33602) It lists for $4400 and is a frack'n awesome bike. With the 2009 models coming, you can probably snag this bike easy for $4000 or less. This bike has Dura-ace parts and is a sweet machine.

Plus it has a compact crank. You really want to buy this bike! :giver:

[v1k1ng1001]

Yeah, would have gotten a Specialized Tarmac back on '06 if I would have had a few extra bucks.

[Mr. Beanz]

I have a friend that is a superstrong rider (210-240 lbs). He rides a Giant carbon fiber frame. It's really lite and he says he feels the difference in acceleration compared to his Cannondale R2000. But like others say, CF isn't just about the lightness, it's about comfort too. Can't remember the model of his Giant but it was about 4k with Dura Ace 10 speed. Black and silver model,nice paint job!

FWIW, he has thrashed 2 sets of Mavic Ksyriums (one $800 set and one $1200 set with the red spoke) a couple of DA 10 speed cassettes and several chains in the last 3 years.

BUT, the frame is fine. I'd worry about the narrow cogs and chain durability with the 10 speed DA components myself. I ride 9 and hope to never go 10.:D


http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l267/gulpxtreme/SA%20River%20Trail%20Ride/DSC04389.jpg

[BCIpam]

For $4000 you can definitely buy an awesome custom steel bike and probably work something out on Ti. Why would you even think of spending money on a carbon bike (can you tell I don't think much of carbon)? What I would do is good a good steel frame build and then spend some money on a good, solid wheelset which is hand built for your weight and size. Not certain where you live but for instance go to http://www.landsharkbicycles.com/ or www.kishbike.com

Nothing like steel or Ti for a larger rider and there's nothing more comfortable and weight is on par with carbon.

Edited to add: Don't forget to check out the landshark gallery or for Kish bicycles go to sprectrum power works (spectrumpowerworks.com) and see what they can do. My dream bike will be a Kish Ti done with a lotus blossum etched design.

[dirtbikedude]

I bought my first full carbon bike (Bianchi 928) my last year of playing ball, that was when I weighed in at a svelte 320 :rolleyes:

I had no issues with it although I did have the shop put a carbon fork with an aluminum steerer on it. It had lower level Campy groupo (Veloce) and stock wheels(I forget which ones they used in '04) I put close to 3000mi on it before selling it.

Buy from a reputable company and the frame will last as long as you do not abuse it. Components wear out, faster with our large arses, but that is to be expected.

Before that bike and many moons ago I road/raced a Giant MCM mountain frame, this was when carbon was thought of as evil and not a lot of riders would use it for a mountain bike. I had front suspension on it and that frame lasted me 11yrs before cracking it. I weighed in at 235 at the time.

My next ride, and at 275 right now, will be another Bianchi 928 although I have yet to decide if I will get the C2C or the T-Cube frame, both carbon.

DBD:beer:

[orangeblood96]

how are the steel bikes handling roads not so forgiving? i mean with dampening vibrations. The roads i ride are not smooth at all and that is the reasoning getting a carbon. i thought it would be easier on my hands.

[BCIpam]

I ride steel - it's sweet on bad roads. I do have a carbon fork and carbon handlebars. Steel is known for it's road dampering qualities as is Ti.

I've ridden all through Utah, Idaho, Montana etc, states where there is plenty of chip seal, ie, bumpy roads. The bike does well. And new, high end steel is very light weight, although flexible and durable. With the right wheelset, the bike should be incredibly smooth...

[late]

how are the steel bikes handling roads not so forgiving? i mean with dampening vibrations. The roads i ride are not smooth at all and that is the reasoning getting a carbon. i thought it would be easier on my hands.

It's not the material, it's the design and construction. Ti is supposed to have a smooth ride but I had a Ti frame that was brutally stiff.

Bottom line, get out and try some bikes. Don't avoid potholes... when you are riding in a group or racing you can't. On each test ride find a hill, get out of the saddle and
accelerate up the hill. Great way to check for frame flex.
Frame flex can be a problem for a big tall guy.

My current ride is a Gunnar Sport, it's a steel frame that rides like butter.

If your roads are crap and you are a big guy, I suggest starting with a 27c or 28c tire. You can keep the pressure under 100psi and that really helps. I am using 32c tires.

What people used to do was to have a training bike and a racing bike. The training bike was a reliable workhorse, and perhaps that is what you should be looking at.

[BCIpam]

My best friend is about 265 maybe now 270 lb. He has 2 Landsharks and 4 Kishs (all Ti - 2 road bikes, one mountain hardtail and a cyclocross bike). He won't ride anything else. With all high end components (Dura Ace or XT), the custom frame (he's long legged, short waisted so custom works best for him), Chris King headset and custom wheels, the bikes all came in around $4K.

[BCIpam]

My current ride is a Gunnar Sport, it's a steel frame that rides like butter.

If your roads are crap and you are a big guy, I suggest starting with a 27c or 28c tire. You can keep the pressure under 100psi and that really helps. I am using 32c tires.

What people used to do was to have a training bike and a racing bike. The training bike was a reliable workhorse, and perhaps that is what you should be looking at.

Gunnar is also a good steel builder. Actually there are lots out there. And I agree with the tire size. When I tour, I use 28c inflated to 100psi just as recommend by late... definitely helps to smooth out the bumpy roads. At home, where roads are very smooth, I still ride with a larger tire, 25cs...

[Mr. Beanz]

Hmm, I know of 2 Socal members that ride ti and don't think much of it. Another bud went for a Litespeed to a Specialed CF and loves it. Didn't care much for the ti at all. Another friend has 2 pegoretti's (steel) and a Merlins ti. Says the ti doesn't compare to the steel rides. Another guy says his Lemond ti is very sluggish, maybe a bit oot resilient.

After riding with these guys, I'd avoid ti myself. I would go for steel but haven't heard any good reviews from any of the rider partners I know that ride ti. But everybody is different! :D

But for 4k, I wouldn't buy anything that I couldn't test ride first. AND I'd have to like it!:p

[Mr. Beanz]

My bud (on the right)that sold his Litespeed Ti and went to a Specialized CF. He says the CF is a far better ride than ti and much lighter and faster. This guy is a speed demon! Just goes to show eveyrone's opinion is different

The guy on the left is also a Socal forum BF'er and loves his CF too! Ithink they are the same bikes!:D

BTW, I DON'T ride CF so I am only passing on some opinions stated by other riders. All of which are excellent riders and do some serious rides. The death Ride, Breathless Agony, Ride the Bear etc.:thumb:

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l267/gulpxtreme/32208B.jpg

[freeagent1970]

Hmm, I know of 2 Socal members that ride ti and don't think much of it. Another bud went for a Litespeed to a Specialed CF and loves it. Didn't care much for the ti at all. Another friend has 2 pegoretti's (steel) and a Merlins ti. Says the ti doesn't compare to the steel rides. Another guy says his Lemond ti is very sluggish, maybe a bit oot resilient.

After riding with these guys, I'd avoid ti myself. I would go for steel but haven't heard any good reviews from any of the rider partners I know that ride ti. But everybody is different! :D

But for 4k, I wouldn't buy anything that I couldn't test ride first. AND I'd have to like it!:p

I lust for italian steel and always have...or maybe now days even italian carbon. The Pegorettis are artwork. If you want carbon guy go for carbon. Like Tom S says if you love the bike you will ride the pee out of it. Carbon, to me is just beautiful to look at in its unpainted finish and i would love to have one if the funds alowed. When i hit your weight me and the wife talked my reward formyself is a Colnago. Good luck and try out many. BTW for what its worth i think the Orca orbea is sweeeeeet

[BCIpam]

Hmm, I know of 2 Socal members that ride ti and don't think much of it. Another bud went for a Litespeed to a Specialed CF and loves it. Didn't care much for the ti at all. Another friend has 2 pegoretti's (steel) and a Merlins ti. Says the ti doesn't compare to the steel rides. Another guy says his Lemond ti is very sluggish, maybe a bit oot resilient.

After riding with these guys, I'd avoid ti myself. I would go for steel but haven't heard any good reviews from any of the rider partners I know that ride ti. But everybody is different! :D

But for 4k, I wouldn't buy anything that I couldn't test ride first. AND I'd have to like it!:p

Beanz there is a world of difference between production Ti and custom Ti. I know many riders of custom Ti bikes (like Holland, Kish etc) and wouldn't ride anything else. I've also ridden Ti and my response was "it's almost as good as my steel bike". Frankly I believe they is nothing better than steel for ride and comfort. I have an older Lemond before Trek took over and ruined the bike (the Zurich) by adding carbon. My all steel bike rides like butter. As just as many complaint you have heard about Ti I've heard about carbon. The one thing I have to say about carbon... eventually the bike will have to be replaced. It just doesn't hold out as long as steel or Ti or Aluminum. Since I don't like to change out my bikes every 2 years, I stay with something alittle more durable. And carbon can also be stiff and harsh. It's a matter of design and materials and components.

Edited to add: Also Beanz note the size of your friends on SWorks. Those bikes are meant for larger riders. They have a weight limit in fact if I recall.

To the OT buy what you want especially if you have the money - if you get something like the SWorks, make sure you spend alittle money on custom wheels that can take your weight..

[Mr. Beanz]

True Pam, I also have heard negative things from carbon riders but more about Ti. I'm not sure if the Merlin was custom but his Peg's were. The others were all Litespeeds which got great reviews but not from the riders I know.

If it were me, I'd go steel before ti. As far as holding out as long as ti,steel or aluminum, I haven't heard of anymore failures than I have with the other materials. I know OCRRick form the SoCal is a liteweight and his ti failed not once but twice I believe!:eek:... Plus BigJohn and a few others have snapped steel bikes. I really don't know anybody that has had a carbon fiber bike long enough to know whether or not it will outlast steel, ti or aluminum. I know one racer with a 98'ish bike with no problems. Other than that, the others are all around 2003'ish and none have bursted into flames yet!:D

I do have a friend with a steel DeRose that is toast. Got wet on the inside then rusted out the tubes. Found out when he had to have it refinished when the paint corroded.

In your note about my friend's size, did you mean the bikes are "NOT" meant for larger riders? Don't confuse me more than I already am!:D

Just out of curiosity, are there any articles proving ti, steel and aluminum will outlast carbon. No sarcasm meant, just haven't seen any more problems with the carbon than the other materials since my riding career started in 95.:p.....other than crashing!

[Mr. Beanz]

Carbon, to me is just beautiful to look at in its unpainted finish and i would love to have one if the funds alowed.

I have a friend that had a Specialized Roubaix. It was nude carbon and just looked beautiful. He crashed it then went with a really nice Cervelo. Must have been double or triple the price but to me the Specialized was so much nicer looking. I think he only paid about $1500 for it a few years ago.

About a year ago I saw a purty nice looking Giant for $1200. 105 equipped. I was tempted knowing someday the components would get replaced anyway.:D...Keep an eye open, lots of good deals out there!

[Fastflyingasian]

i will say if you heart is on carbon buy it. i used to have aluminum and the carbon feels nicer over all. but its my preference. i ride with a guy that has a aluminum with carbon stays and fork and he wont stop talking about how he wished he bought a all carbon bike. for overall speed i like my carbon much better, but i enjoy climbing on my aluminium bike more since its more rigid. im a speed freak and someday when i actually have money again i want to buy an all out carbon race bike.

[pharding]

I have 265 lbs on my 6' 2" frame. I purchased a 2008 Madone 6.5 2 months ago. It is a carbon fiber frame with Dura-Ace components. I have put 370 miles on it to date on rural and outer suburban roads here in Chicago. The bike is incredibly wonderful to ride with very smooth shifting. I am amazed at how light and strong the carbon fiber frame and components are. With my weight and the occasional chuck hole that I inadvertently hit, the bike has proven to be quite robust. The only negative on the bike from my point of view is that the carbon fiber construction telegraphs through the paint in some places. This reads as minor finish flaws if the sunlight hits the frame just right. This is not unique to Trek. All things considered I am quite happy with my bike. I paid $4800 for it which is a lot of money, however I feel that got a big bang for the cost. The Madone 6.5 for 2009 will come with the next version of the Dura-Ace components which means the 2008 models should be heavily discounted.

I take exception with the posts that state that the larger cyclist should not be concerned about getting a lightweight carbon fiber bike. It is fun to go really fast and it is wonderful to have a light bike when I am climbing up a hill into the wind.

[Mr. Beanz]

I wonder too about warranties on custom bikes. I know a Trek Madone has a lifetime warranty on the frame. How about custom steel or ti? I know one guy with a custom bike that had a really big warranty fee for a replacement frame. Don't remember the amount but maybe $600. For the price of something custom, I'd expect a lifetime.:D

[bautieri]

If your heart is set on Carbon Fiber then get yourself to your LBS. The only help you'll need will be provided by your checkbook.

Course we'll want photos when you do buy it.

[Tom Stormcrowe]

That would depend on the size of the shop. If it's a small one man shop, for example, the lifetime warranty the particular brand offered may well be the lifetime of the craftsman rather than the life of the buyer. ;)

I wonder too about warranties on custom bikes. I know a Trek Madone has a lifetime warranty on the frame. How about custom steel or ti? I know one guy with a custom bike that had a really big warranty fee for a replacement frame. Don't remember the amount but maybe $600. For the price of something custom, I'd expect a lifetime.:D

[BCIpam]

I take exception with the posts that state that the larger cyclist should not be concerned about getting a lightweight carbon fiber bike. It is fun to go really fast and it is wonderful to have a light bike when I am climbing up a hill into the wind.

I think you misunderstood... I never said a larger rider should not have a light bike... I said I believe the Spec SWorks had a weight limit, something larger riders need to consider. And just because something is carbon doesn't mean it's the lightest weight... there are plenty of steel,Ti and Auminum bikes out there that are just as light if not lighter than CF.

If someone has been riding aluminum and than switches to CF (or Ti or Steel), they of course, will feel a big difference. Aluminum can be very harsh especially a stiff frame.

Beanz: if you do alittle internet research they are lots of discussions and comparisons on the frame materials. From http://gicl.cs.drexel.edu/wiki/Bicycle_Frame I found:

Recently, Carbon Fiber bicycle frames have become popular due to its many advantages. Carbon fiber is a combination of several thousand long, thin strands of material consisting of mostly carbon atoms. This process allows for the density of carbon fiber to be lower then any other of the frame materials discussed. Not only is it light, but it is corrosion-resistant unlike aluminum and it is still strong. Carbon fiber is an interesting frame material because it can be formed into any shape that is desired which really helps for those who wish to fine tune there bicycle for ultimate performance, including racing. With carbon fiber you can add specific strength to the frame where forces are higher and at the same time allow for comfort and flexibility, essentially a combination of other frame materials into one. One thing that might make the consumer rethink about getting a carbon fiber frame is that they are expensive. Also, unlike other materials, carbon fiber frames have been known to a high amount of damage in the case of a crash and also fatigue failures...

One reason when I was looking for my bike, I shied away from CF; I tend to keep a bike for awhile. I have several friends that have had to replace their CF frames (almost all Treks BTW) merely because it cracked under use. Some were replaced under warranty thank goodness. One friend had a car v. bike accident and was on her own.

For the OP, here's a good article to read: http://http://www.spadout.com/w/bike-frames/

[BCIpam]

And adding a thought... CF is still very expensive (not certain why) and for the money someone can instead of buying a production bike built in China (where most if not all CF bikes are made), buy a custom bike built in the USA. Just something to consider... I try to buy USA as much as possible.

[Charles]

Just a word on Ti. I have a Seven custom with oversize down tube. It is by far the best riding bike I have ever owned. I also have a old Eddy Mercx with Columbus SL and a Serotta Colorado with Columbus SPX-SLX mix. The Seven is stiffer and also quite a bit lighter plus rides better. I have never rode a carbon bike so can't comment on that. But I do have a friend that has a Look Carbon don't know what model and he is 260 or so and it has not broken yet.

[BCIpam]

I wonder too about warranties on custom bikes. I know a Trek Madone has a lifetime warranty on the frame. How about custom steel or ti? I know one guy with a custom bike that had a really big warranty fee for a replacement frame. Don't remember the amount but maybe $600. For the price of something custom, I'd expect a lifetime.:D

Don't know about all builders but the builders I know - it is lifetime. Was the $600 perhaps a painting fee?

Trek and Specialize do offer lifetime warranties so something to consider (I have had my share of Spec. mountain bkes and they have been very, very good to me on warranties) but the warranties don't cover accidents. My thought is if I have a fender bender with a car, my steel might hold up, the CF most likely will crack.

And it's just me, for $4800 I would have definitely gotten a custom Ti bike with Dura Ace. Again just something to consider for the price of Chinese CF, you can get a custom built Ti or steel bicycle. But it's always important to get what you want.

And Charles - jealous - nothing more beautiful than a custom Seven or Serotta. Wouldn't mind having either!

[Ranger63]

If you don't need the flashy name on the bike BikesDirect can put you on a darn well equipped full CF bike for around $1500-$2000
I'm 222, I ride a Motobecane Imortal Force.
I worried and worried about whether the ritchey proV rims would hold up and FSA Team Issue CF cranks would hold up and...and...
And everything has held up fine.
On a ride last saturday we caught a nice 20 mile flat stretch
Lead two bikes: Titanium Lightspeed Specialized full CF compact
Next bike..My Moto IF.
Average speed: 23.7mph
(btw all 3 of us are in our mid-late 60s)

[Van Hilliard]

As others have suggested, try a number of frames. I have had numerous bikes through the years and found them serviceable. Many of these were high-end bikes for their time. When I finally tried a Litespeed Ultimate in 2002, I knew I had finally found THE bike for the rest of my riding life. It's a titanium frame with a titanium/carbon weave in the rear stays. This bike is the smoothest riding yet most responsive bike I have ever ridden. I have a friend who tried a similar bike. She couldn't stand it and loves her old steel frames (Colnago and Holdsworth). There's a high degree of personal preference involved here. Seek advice but try everything you can. You might find a magic fit like the one I found with my Litespeed.
Van

[Targeting 200]

I absolutely agree that you should try numerous frames - it's the best possible way to know you have the right fit. Be patient - you're getting ready to spend a lot of money! In terms of carbon - go for it. Road vibration damping is worth the money. In terms of components - anything Shimano 105 or better is so reliable in today's component suite that you should be able to find a great combo in the $2k+ range. Save part of your $4,000 for other gadgets and travel experiences to ride somewhere special. Be sure to try out the Trek Pilot 5.0. I've owned my Pilot for 7 months and have over 1700 miles on it. It has been bullet proof. Fast. Strong. Maintenance free except for routine stuff like cleaning and chain lube. It has a nice paint job if you like red and white. I get compliments all the time on how it looks. The Pilot is in the "plush" category, and works great for me at 58, 230 lbs, 6;0". One more suggestion - if you can find a prior year model,you can save hundreds.

[Bill98006]

At 240 lbs, any road bike will work for you. I like carbon but I had to pay for it. I bought a Trek Pilot 5.2 with Ultegra Components at the end of 2006 and saved 1/3 of the purchase price. It was a $3K bike selling for $2K. I am 265 lbs and knew from reading about this bike that I would blow the wheels out very quickly, so I bought a set of hand made wheels. They use Velocity Deep V rims, K-Swiss spokes and Dura Ace hubs. I have ridden 2200 miles so far with only routine wheel truing. I also found a nice saddle - ride on a Koobi saddle. I also like mountain bikes and ride them on the rail trails. No special mods for Clydes are needed with mountain bikes.

Bill

[jupiterboy]

When I first read your post - your weight issues seemed to be the same as mine. We just had our first baby and I was 235 lbs. I rode 100 to 150 miles a week with hills and lost enough weight to hover around 200.

The big question for people our weight is rims. I cannot run the 20 / 24 spoke count. After 100 miles the rear wheel will be out of true. My suggestion is to go with a higher spoke count.

Good luck.

[heckler]

just because something is carbon doesn't mean it's the lightest weight... there are plenty of steel,Ti and Auminum bikes out there that are just as light if not lighter than CF.



:) cheap carbon frames aren't always lighter than good al or ti frames, but I challange you to find somethign lighter than this

http://scottusa.com/us_en/category/68/addict

790 grame frame built up weighs in at 13lbs of course that is breaking the $4k limit, but i think it is difficult to get steel less than 18-20 lbs or so (generalization) whereas nice 4K carbon bikes often come in under 15lbs. or course for touring i would ratehr have the steel, but if i were racing maybe those grams make a difference


The big question for people our weight is rims. I cannot run the 20 / 24 spoke count. After 100 miles the rear wheel will be out of true. My suggestion is to go with a higher spoke count.

Good luck.


my 20/24 front/rear wheels are true at 550 miles, and they are pretty crappy... i came to this forum and everyone acted like my wheels would blow to pieces if i sat on the bike due to the lack of a wheel builder and the lowish spokes, thank god some people said ride them till they break because they are going strong, and it would have been a waste of money to get heavier more costly wheels right off that bat.

[Bone Head]

:)
my 20/24 front/rear wheels are true at 550 miles, and they are pretty crappy... i came to this forum and everyone acted like my wheels would blow to pieces if i sat on the bike due to the lack of a wheel builder and the lowish spokes, thank god some people said ride them till they break because they are going strong, and it would have been a waste of money to get heavier more costly wheels right off that bat.

+1 FWIW, I have 2,000+ miles on my '06 Giant OCR Limited (carbon frame) with Xero XSR-3 20/24 spoke wheels. I'm 5'10 240#. I just had the wheels retensioned & trued for the 1st time at 1800 miles as preventive maintenance. The wheels were true but the spokes did need retensioning. As I understand it, this is common for new wheels and loose or mistensioned(?) spokes are a major cause of wheel failure.
$50 for both -- much cheaper than new wheels.

[dobber]

If I were to chose one bike, it would be a nice steel framed cyclocross style ride. Something that can handle running the tarmac but would also be nice on the gravel paths and occasional excursions into the dirt.

[BayBruin]

This is a great thread because I was looking into a new bike. CF scares me because I am over 250. I just picture the frame not holding up well especially since I cracked my aluminum Trek Portland frame with normal use (2000+ relatively smooth miles). They replaced it free. I've also looked at the Trek 520 (I'm a Trek fan) but it just reminds me of a station wagon. I do organized rides and taking a touring bike on that seems kind of odd I guess. I received numerous remarks on my Portland during the last organzied event....it's different and people for some reason go gaga over the disc brakes. I use my bike for commuting mostly so the Portland is a good bet. But on long weekend rides and organized rides I'd like something smoother and built for speed. I'm big but I can still crank.

Also, I don't want to spend $4K on a bike. I can afford it financially, but can't afford the prolonged grief from the wife. I'd probably be good getting something under $2K. Thoughts/suggestions?

[Mr. Beanz]

Oops! Latest thread on a failed ti frame. Seven Axion, what are they about 4 or 5 grand? Don't look like no heavyweight guy either!:(

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=435722

[wibnrml]

It just goes to show, any material, given the right conditions will fail in some way. We are just talking molecules holding themselves together. Whether it's Ti, steel, CF, whatever. If there is a flaw in the material, stress and strains of a flexing frame is going to find a weak point and it's going to crack. So when I read a post stating that a certain material is prone to fail. It's not. It's the engineering and fabrication. Buy quality with a warranty.