Road Cycling - new road bike or keep/upgrade 25 year old Raleigh Professional?

Hi, I've been looking in the $1000 range for a road bike to replace my 25 year old Raleigh Professional. But everything I've test ridden doesn't ride /handle as well as the old bike. I've tested the Bianchi Campione, Fuji Roublaix, Jamis Ventura, etc. How much do I need to spend to match the old Reynolds classic? Or is it worth it to try and outfit the old with modern equipment?

Sounds like you're in love with the Raleigh. My vote is to Upgrade.

Upgrade, I think you'll be happier, you have found true love.

Depends on what you plan to do. If you are going to post STI era equipment
then, depending on the source you will spend at least $500 and probably
closer to 800 to 1000 for parts, higher for Campy than Shimano. You may not
want to go Record, though that is what is probably on the bike now if there is any budget involved. The frame will need to be spread. Front wheel will still
work. A new rear wheel will be needed. Your brakes certainly don't match contemporary brakes in function either. When I converted my PX10 to 8spd I had to really search for a downtube mount that could be modified for STI cable stops. I also had to fabricate my own brake bolt for the front brake as mounting systems differ enough that current front brakes fit only on the rear, and the current front brake bolt is too short for the forks now. The '70s era DuraAce brakes were no match for the '97 105s. I also drilled and tapped the bottom of the bottom bracket for the cable guide as the old clamp on guides wouldn't work right.
Once done I felt it was worth while, but it took awhile. A Raleigh Pro is a really nice frame. Much more worth salvage than my PX 10. Steve

I'd leave the Raleigh alone and keep it as a classic
ride. Just a guess here but an equivelant bike in 2004
dollars is probably gonna run at least $1500, probably
more in the $2000 range.
For ride quality I'd say you should be looking at steel bike, good tubing like dedaccai, Columbus or Reynolds.
Just my $.02 retrogrouchs worth.

Marty

Hi,
I vote for upgrading. This assumes you don't want to sock that money away until you can throw a couple grand at the problem..... I would start with wheels. We have a thread on $500 wheels going; that would be worth reading. You could then start throwing lighter parts on. If you are happy with the shifting, you could lose a lot of weight with a carbon fork. Add new lightweight headset, stem, and bar and that finishes off that grand.

Thanks for all the feed back. I think I will keep the bike as it is and wait until I have the extra money for a comparable new bike.

Thanks for all the feed back. I think I will keep the bike as it is and wait until I have the extra money for a comparable new bike.

I agree you should keep them original. I've got two older steel Raleighs: a Gran Sport, still with original Simplex friction shifters and Brooks saddle, and the RT600 with downtube 7 sp Shimano 600. Just got a new high-tech frame last month with DA STI, etc, and it's nice to have the old bikes for comparison.

My dad has an early 70's Raleigh Firebird in mint condition with the original Simplex drivetrain. When he is through with riding it I want to update it with a new Campy drivetrain and would like to stick with downtube shifters, nothing fancy likely Zenon. Is this possible? Also what size wheels do these old road bikes have? 26inch?

Cheers,
Kris

I would think that you could find a good steel frame comparable to your old Raleigh. Some of those old frames had a really nice geometry that was a good combination of performance and comfort and that is hard to duplicate now. They seem to max one or the other now.

If I may say, keep it a vintage ride and modernize w/ a new bike. You could spend just as much on a full upgrade as a new comparable ride using the latest technology. Then you have two bikes a classy fun ride and a modern racer. Just think how cool that bike is gonna be as is 15 years from now.

How about new tires, handlebar tape and a complete tune-up.

Actually, I did replace the original Weinman center pulls with Campy side pulls in the mid 80s; and then in the early 90s I replaced the original rims/sew ups with Mavic rims and 700/23cc tires. In the late 90s I replaced the original stem with a lighter alloy Cinelli. The saddle, too, is no longer a Brooks. But the rest is original.

My dad has an early 70's Raleigh Firebird in mint condition with the original Simplex drivetrain. When he is through with riding it I want to update it with a new Campy drivetrain and would like to stick with downtube shifters, nothing fancy likely Zenon. Is this possible? Also what size wheels do these old road bikes have? 26inch?

Cheers,
Kris

My '74 Gran Sport has 27 x 1-1/8 inch Weimann alloy rims. Not sure why you would want to put a new Campy drivetrain on the bike, but to me that's a waste of money and just not something to do to a vintage bike. Kind of like putting a 350 V-8 into an XKE. OK, well, maybe not that bad, but still ...

Actually, I did replace the original Weinman center pulls with Campy side pulls in the mid 80s; and then in the early 90s I replaced the original rims/sew ups with Mavic rims and 700/23cc tires. In the late 90s I replaced the original stem with a lighter alloy Cinelli. The saddle, too, is no longer a Brooks. But the rest is original.

Just curious. Did you buy this bike new?...in 1979? I owned a 1976 Raleigh Pro. It was truly a wonderful ride. All Raleigh Pro's from the early-70's through the mid-80's came fully state-of-the-art equipped with Campagnolo Nouvo or Super Record componentry. But you say yours had Weinmann center pulls? Could you post a photog of your bike? Here is a link to a page about Raleigh Pro's.

http://retroraleighs.com/professional.html

This photog was lifted from that link and is the catalog photog of the bicycle I owned.

I actually bought the frame new in the early 80s, same mink/silver color. I had a Raleigh International before that that I bought in 1976. The International frame got damaged by vandals one night when I foolishly left it locked outside a club in Kenmore Sq, Boston. So I transferred all the International components on to the Professional frame. The International did come with the nuovo record duereillers, and with the Weinman brakes for some reason too. That's why I eventually upgraded the brakes.

Hi, I've been looking in the $1000 range for a road bike to replace my 25 year old Raleigh Professional. But everything I've test ridden doesn't ride /handle as well as the old bike. I've tested the Bianchi Campione, Fuji Roublaix, Jamis Ventura, etc. How much do I need to spend to match the old Reynolds classic? Or is it worth it to try and outfit the old with modern equipment?

From my recent experience, if you are trying to save money, go the upgrade route. I just recently finished upgrading my '98 Cannondale which was using parts from a 1988 Cannondale SR500 (1988 Shimano 105 6 Speed) and I have to say I quite enjoyed the process. I relied almost entirely on ebay and was able to upgrade my bike to a 2002 Shimano 105 (except for the brakes, which are an older 105 model and the wheels, which I bought a brand new set from nashbar that are good enough for training and were on sale for less than $100US). I was able to buy all new parts, including fork, headset, stem, bars, seatpost and wheels and an almost new grouppo for around $500 dollars Canadian. I have to say that I was extremely impressed with the quality of the items I found on ebay. The prices we so low and the quality was nearly brand new (some minor scuffs mostly on the STI shifters, but the derailleurs and Cranks were practically brand new). If you are patient enough to wait for the good deals--it took me about 4 months to completely finish due to finding the right parts at the best prices--there are some real bargains to be had.

I bought the frame new in about 1982. Before that I had a Raleigh International which got vandalized. The frame was bent when I foolishly left it locked outside a club one night in Kenmore Sq. Boston. So I transferred the components from the International to the Professional. That explains why I had the Weinmann brakes to begin with -- as your retroraleigh link informs, the International frame needed such centerpulls to allow enough clearance for fenders. Interestingly, I didn't find my Professional's serial number prefix, WP, referenced on the site.

I tried to attach a photo but it isn't working with my software. I could send a picture from my email provider, by attaching it that way, but I'd need an email address.

I bought the frame new in about 1982. Before that I had a Raleigh International which got vandalized. The frame was bent when I foolishly left it locked outside a club one night in Kenmore Sq. Boston. So I transferred the components from the International to the Professional. That explains why I had the Weinmann brakes to begin with -- as your retroraleigh link informs, the International frame needed such centerpulls to allow enough clearance for fenders. Interestingly, I didn't find my Professional's serial number prefix, WP, referenced on the site.

I tried to attach a photo but it isn't working with my software. I could send a picture from my email provider, by attaching it that way, but I'd need an email address.

Yes, the International model was equipped with the Weinmann brakes. It was more of an all purpose bike, while the Pro was a pure racing bike.

I had the same problem last year. I was riding an old Raleigh Super Course, and I could not find any new bikes that handled as well. I tried the new Raleigh's, Cannondales, and others, even 2 new Colnago's, but none had the quick handling of the old Raleigh. A Lemond Buenos Aires came close, but the two best candidates I found were the Masi Speciale (and Speciale Premio), and the Jamis Quest. Both handled really well, but the Quest came the closest, and that is the one that I bought. Note that it is in the next higher up bracket from the Ventura that you already tried. If you can find one to test ride, I think you'll find it a worthwhile candidate. I got mine in mid-August of last year when they were closing out the 2003 models for $1050. I originally considered upgrading my Raleigh, but now I plan to keep it as is.

http://www.jamisbikes.com
http://www.masibikes.com
http://www.lemondbikes.com

I have a 73 Raliegh Pro I've had since new. I finally gave up trying to keep it on the road with vintage parts and went looking for a new bike with a ride like the old Pro. I settled on a Lemond Zurich all steel. It has a great ride that is very similar to the Pro. I added of Brooks pro saddle and non ergonomic bars to make the transformation complete. I am very happy with the Zurich.
The old Pro has been reborn as a fixed gear and it is still wonderful. I'd do it all again.

how is this even a debate?

bottomline is always... how much do you love your current frame. Period.

If you can't find a better frame in your price range, then get down on your knees and thank the cycling gods for your luck for being blessed with such a good friend.

Hi, I've been looking in the $1000 range for a road bike to replace my 25 year old Raleigh Professional. But everything I've test ridden doesn't ride /handle as well as the old bike. I've tested the Bianchi Campione, Fuji Roublaix, Jamis Ventura, etc. How much do I need to spend to match the old Reynolds classic? Or is it worth it to try and outfit the old with modern equipment?

All you need is a rear wheel(depends on much you want to spend), spread frame($25-$40) and ultegra group with STI ($400-$475). I'd say with the frame spread it should cost you about $600 + assembly labor.

Then there's the labor.....DIy vs. Shop.

I helped a friend with a project like this. A bonus of doing something like is you will learn how repair and adjust your bike intimately..(No not 55/Rad's removal of seatpost method of getting intimate! hahahah...loved that joke of his)

(No not 55/Rad's removal of seatpost method of getting intimate! hahahah...loved that joke of his)
classic http://67.19.50.55/forums/images/smilies/thumb.gif

I also vote for leaving the Raleigh the way it is. I have several road bikes built between 1983 and 1988. I have changed the saddles, pedals, tires, bar tape, and raised the stems higher than the saddles.

But, I am happy with just six or seven cogs and downtube shifting. The best brake levers and calipers of the 1980's have a firmer, more postive action than the best STI type brake levers. And, although "science" says riders can not reliably "feel" the material a frame is made from, the worst of my 80's steel bikes rides better than any modern carbon or aluminum frame that I have tried.

If you want a "new" bike, why not get something totally different? Perhaps a mountain bike, or a bike designed for loaded touring?

I would start looking for another raleigh like yours, in similar or better condition, and build that up to current spec. Seems you like the way the bike feels, so might as well make a modern tech retro rig. Some parts won't fit without some creativity, but that's half the fun of DIY.

I think it would be fascinating if you could somehow acquire indexed downtube shifters for the 10-speed groups, just from a retro aspect alone.

I know that I'm all giddy about finding a way to add my own unique touch to my Trek eventually...but what that will be is still being determined.

I think it would be fascinating if you could somehow acquire indexed downtube shifters for the 10-speed groups, just from a retro aspect alone.



I've seen DA 9 speed indexed shifters in downtube config.....yeah I'm sure they make 10 speed.

The closest I've been able to come to my beloved 70's vintage Falcon San Remo is a Lemond Buenos Aires. The old Reynolds 531 frames, especially those that came from the master British frame makers of the 70's, have a unique feel. So I keep my Falcon in all original shape to remind me of my college days, and have a tricked out carbon Trek for a state of the art bike. To tell the truth, the old Falcon isn't much slower than the space age Trek, really is no slower at all on the flats.

I'd suggest you just put the Pro back in original form, and find a 1-2 year old Lemond BA, they can be had for < $1k. It seems like a crime to muck up that classic cylce trying to retrofit modern components. All of the parts you would need to bring a 70's-80's Pro into original form can be found on ebay, and the Campy Nuovo/Super record equipment is, for the most part, absurdly cheap these days. Everything but the tan Campy brake lever hoods - they're horridly priced if you can find them at all.

I also vote for leaving the Raleigh the way it is. I have several road bikes built between 1983 and 1988. I have changed the saddles, pedals, tires, bar tape, and raised the stems higher than the saddles.

But, I am happy with just six or seven cogs and downtube shifting. The best brake levers and calipers of the 1980's have a firmer, more postive action than the best STI type brake levers. And, although "science" says riders can not reliably "feel" the material a frame is made from, the worst of my 80's steel bikes rides better than any modern carbon or aluminum frame that I have tried.

If you want a "new" bike, why not get something totally different? Perhaps a mountain bike, or a bike designed for loaded touring?

My brother has an old Raleigh Record Ace from the 80's that he purchased brand new. The bike was waaaay too big and resulted in many painful rides. I considered restoring that old bike but it will never fit so it remains in the basement. ;-(

My brother has an old Raleigh Record Ace from the 80's that he purchased brand new. The bike was waaaay too big and resulted in many painful rides. I considered restoring that old bike but it will never fit so it remains in the basement. ;-(

Your "waaaay too big" is someone else's "just perfect". My neighborhood bike shop has taken a couple of my older bikes as "trade-ins". They usually sell in a couple of days...someone out there is probably wishing he could find a tall Raleigh Record Ace.

Yesterday, I saw a great 1985ish road bike sell on E-Bay for $75. All Ultegra 600 components. A wheelset worth about $300. Double butted steel frame with lug work only seen today on $1,000 plus frames. All in all, the new owner is getting about $2,000 worth of bike for $75 plus shipping.

Nothing wrong with old (that has been my motto ever since I looked in the mirror and saw some old guy looking back at me).

Your decision should depend on the size of your frame. If the frame is a 23 1/2 in, you should buy a new bike and donate the old frame to me:-) I'm currently using a 1979 Competition GS for a fixed/SS ride and would dearly love to upgrade to either a Pro on an International. They are great bikes to ride, but with limited potential for upgrading because of the rear dropout width, 126 mm. Modern equipment requires 130 mm dropouts.

I relied almost entirely on ebay...

eBay has been a God send for me in keeping my early 80s Raleigh Super Record on the road. Thankfully, quality 27" tires are still available, and if you're handy there's always the opportunity to retrofit with stuff you have laying around. Besides that, I think it's fun!

eBay has been a God send for me in keeping my early 80s Raleigh Super Record on the road. Thankfully, quality 27" tires are still available, and if you're handy there's always the opportunity to retrofit with stuff you have laying around. Besides that, I think it's fun!

Which "quality 27" tires" do you use?

My two cents worth is that if the frame could still take it-upgrade it. I was riding a giant tcr-zero with ultegra parts for about two years and decided that I still miss the ride of my 1982 Torpado SuperRacing (Columbus SL- Steel).

So the next thing I did was to retire the Giant and rebuilt the Torpado with new Ultegra parts and Rolf wheelset. Its not as light as the giant but the ride is beautiful - only issue is the hill-climb (but I can always blame the bike can't I ;-))

So you have an old Raleigh Grand Sport, huh? I had one 30+ years ago when I was a student at Penn State. I still remember it as one of my FAVORITES. It fit right and felt great. It was stolen (of course).

I have a 1989 Raleigh Technium 400- not exactly a Professional, but I still wouldn't change anything on it.