well the merc arrived, its unpacked and had its first ride quarter mile back from taking child to school.
So first impressions and advice sought. Bear in mind I have a Dahon HH7 and did have a Downtube IX FS.
The fold: Is fab, which which is why I got it for a crowded train commute. But unlike my HH7 or the DT, the bars don't fold through 90 degrees (ie so they are parallel with the frame and wheels), which can be handy if I didn't want to do the whole fold but leave some passing space in my hallway.
Weight. It feels heavy, but is it. My comparator is the HH7 which will of course be lighter; and for the first time, I am lifting the bike single hand off the ground when folded. Tempted to get rid of the kickstand and the dynamo, maybe the rack.
Dynamo and rack: cable from dynamo to front light is disconnected (torn away from fitting) already - not long enough IMHO to cope with folding/front wheel turning in normal steering. May dump dynamo weightwise. Rack - is useful, and provides a stand when folded, but minor - or are they - heel clip issues (or is that the rollers?) may dump that too. Free front bag - will be useful in commute mode, I can take stuff to work on on the 1 hour 5 train journey, but in windy winters wonder about wind resistance.
Seatpost - wobbles all over the place no matter how tight fastened, side to side not just up and down. Will follow guidance from others here and clean off oil - though there doesn't seem to be much of it anyway - to see if that helps. But wonder about getting a new seatpost
Ergonomics. The handlebars are not adjustable up or down - a general brommie feature I guess. I am tall, but not that tall - just under 6' , but my knees feel very close to the handlebars, esp when turning. I need too to consider moving the saddle back, but there is only half an inch on the strange kind of figure seven arrangement on the seatpost. Again, maybe a new seatpost.
Gearing - hard to tell anything because more concerned about staying on the saddle.
Brakes - as bad as expected. I know to oil with 3 in 1 - but umm, how, where - by unscrewing connectors to brake levers and hoping capillary action does the job. Then new pads ?
The dilemmas - as the last q. shows, do I have the technical nous to make this a viable commuter of up to 10 miles a day; should I invest in new parts, removing to make it work for me - or sell it as is and buy something else.
Advice welcome on these q's and alll things merc
jur
06-27-08, 06:15 AM
Wow that is quite a heap of issues out of the box. Like you bought a dud.
gringo_gus
06-27-08, 06:24 AM
no, not a dud if the seatpost wobble - everything else is within in the parameters of what is known about mercs and bromptons, I think, but needs sorting..... and, if I was being too negative, the fold and frame are absolutely fine, the wieght, as per postings on other threads is like that of a brommie. Its whether I put the work in to fulfill its potential or move it on....
BikeBloke
06-27-08, 06:27 AM
AtoB.org.uk has the following to say about the Merc, which seems to echo a lot of what you have said:
"The Merc is an attractive Chinese pirated clone of the Brompton, correct in most respects, and apparently upgraded from the classic British bike, thanks to a light alloy frame. The reality is a bike that weighs 13.2kg (heavier than the steel Brompton), on which almost nothing works properly - the saddle slips down, the brakes barely function, the front carrier block is a bit dodgy, and the cables get in a tangle when you fold it up."
gringo_gus
06-27-08, 06:38 AM
hi, bikebloke - again, the view on the forums is much more open than AtoB. Weightwise, like for like isn't being compared; without rack dynamo kickstand fenders (mudguards) the two are v. similar. Brakes can I think be fixed with new blocks and oiling. Dynamo cable is small potatoes too.
But the saddle is an issue which has to be sorted. Assuming it can be it is the ergonomics of the thing (is this what people mean when they say "cabin"? ), and whether they are to my personal taste. And this would be true if I got a brommie too.
I have emailed merc to ask for guidance on the saddle thing, will post their response here. But if anyone else does have any ideas let me know.
SesameCrunch
06-27-08, 06:46 AM
GringoGus:
Congrasts on your Merc. Don't worry, your observations are accurate. We have all gone through some of this stuff and still enjoy the bike. Make sure you read the big Merc thread if you haven't already. Lotsa good tips there. Let me comment on some of your points here:
well the merc arrived, its unpacked and had its first ride quarter mile back from taking child to school.
So first impressions and advice sought. Bear in mind I have a Dahon HH7 and did have a Downtube IX FS.
The fold: Is fab, which which is why I got it for a crowded train commute. But unlike my HH7 or the DT, the bars don't fold through 90 degrees (ie so they are parallel with the frame and wheels), which can be handy if I didn't want to do the whole fold but leave some passing space in my hallway.
Weight. It feels heavy, but is it. My comparator is the HH7 which will of course be lighter; and for the first time, I am lifting the bike single hand off the ground when folded. Tempted to get rid of the kickstand and the dynamo, maybe the rack.
Yeah, bike will be heavier than your HH7, but not as much as your DT FS. I, too, played with removing the rack and dynamo. The kickstand can be removed since you can park the bike with the rear triangle folded.
Dynamo and rack: cable from dynamo to front light is disconnected (torn away from fitting) already - not long enough IMHO to cope with folding/front wheel turning in normal steering. May dump dynamo weightwise. Rack - is useful, and provides a stand when folded, but minor - or are they - heel clip issues (or is that the rollers?) may dump that too. Free front bag - will be useful in commute mode, I can take stuff to work on on the 1 hour 5 train journey, but in windy winters wonder about wind resistance.
I say dump the dynamo, unless you're riding at night regularly. Modern lights are so much lighter. Regarding the rack, you can still fold the rear swing arm under without the rack. The small roller wheels are part of the bike, not the rack. As for heel strike, I get that too, but I have gotten used to it and avoid it by pedaling with my heels out a bit. I even have installed larger, roller blade wheels so the Merc rolls better when folded under.
Seatpost - wobbles all over the place no matter how tight fastened, side to side not just up and down. Will follow guidance from others here and clean off oil - though there doesn't seem to be much of it anyway - to see if that helps. But wonder about getting a new seatpost
EvilV claims to have resolved this on his bike, but I still experience seatpost slippage. I think the core issue is that the seat collar (on the frame) is so thick that it takes a lot of force to clamp down on the inserted seatpost. That, and the finish on the original seatpost is very slippery. So a new seatpost may help. Another solution that someone else came up with is to add a quick-release clamp on seatpost itself. This way, you have two clamps, one on the seat collar, the other on the post itself, providing a very positive impediment to any slippage. I haven't tried this second method, but it seems like a good solution.
Ergonomics. The handlebars are not adjustable up or down - a general brommie feature I guess. I am tall, but not that tall - just under 6' , but my knees feel very close to the handlebars, esp when turning. I need too to consider moving the saddle back, but there is only half an inch on the strange kind of figure seven arrangement on the seatpost. Again, maybe a new seatpost.
Have you used the saddle clamp extension that comes with the bike. It'll provide about 3 more inches for you to move the saddle back. I am 6' tall and 34" true inseam. The saddle clamp gives me enough room for general riding, like a hybrid bike. You're not going to get into racing position like on your HH, but the Merc is not a racer.
Gearing - hard to tell anything because more concerned about staying on the saddle.
EvilV (our resident Merc guru) and I both have installed an additional chainring in the front to give lower gearing for the occasional hill. He has even installed a front derailleur, whereas I just change front gears by hand if/when I need it. Otherwise, the standard gearing is fine for hybrid riding conditions. Again, this is not a speed racer.
Brakes - as bad as expected. I know to oil with 3 in 1 - but umm, how, where - by unscrewing connectors to brake levers and hoping capillary action does the job. Then new pads ?
Brakes are bad on this bike. And that's being polite. I replaced my cables/cable housing higher quality parts (teflon cables) and it is much, much better, even with the original brake pads. This is really not hard to do, and takes about 30 minutes. Don't scrimp here - braking is too critical.
The dilemmas - as the last q. shows, do I have the technical nous to make this a viable commuter of up to 10 miles a day; should I invest in new parts, removing to make it work for me - or sell it as is and buy something else.
10 miles a day is not demanding for this bike. Don't give up hope.
Advice welcome on these q's and alll things merc
Sammyboy
06-27-08, 06:47 AM
Yeah, AtoB pan anything not Brompton - take a look at their report on the Downtube FS, and see if it chimes with your experience! The Merc ought to be broadly comparable to the Brompton, according to many here who own them.....
gringo_gus
06-27-08, 07:28 AM
thanks for all this - what a great forum this is. Let me try and make it work for me then.
Sesamecrunch, thanks for all your heartening guidance. I did turn the saddle clamp extension round thinking I could get those extra inches, but it was pointing down instead of up. Because I got to turn it over, too, right... d'oh.
Some thoughts. Rather than buy a new seatpost, you think I could try a new collar, like this:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-Brompton-Brompton-Seat-pillar-bush-sleeve-pair.--QSTSLV-2930.htm
Or at least try that first... Another clamp may help with the vertical movement, but not the side to side. Maybe even a light sanding on the inside of the collar. Dunno. Will get new cables at the least - indeed may put together a package of things to get done. There is a new LBS starting up who probbly needs business.
And at the same time, on the ergonomics, I could maybe try a p-type handle bar, although maybe that prompts issues with the twist-gear change.
Sammyboy, I couldn't find the AtoB downtube report, but anyone who disses the DT given it is such great VFM loses cred with me.
LittlePixel
06-27-08, 07:32 AM
But unlike my HH7 or the DT, the bars don't fold through 90 degrees (ie so they are parallel with the frame and wheels), which can be handy if I didn't want to do the whole fold but leave some passing space in my hallway.
But you can just flip the whole bar/stem assembly downwards and clip it to the forks for the same effect. It's what I do with mine.
Weight. It feels heavy, but is it? My comparator is the HH7 which will of course be lighter; and for the first time, I am lifting the bike single hand off the ground when folded. Tempted to get rid of the kickstand and the dynamo, maybe the rack.
Yes they are kind of heavy but a lot of that is stuff you can take off - the dynamo for one is heavy as are the cheap-but-bombproof tyres. And the folding kickstand is a waste of time when you can just as easily 'stand' the bike by flipping the rear under it so it sits on it's rack.
Ergonomics. The handlebars are not adjustable up or down - a general brommie feature I guess. I am tall, but not that tall - just under 6' , but my knees feel very close to the handlebars, esp when turning.
I've never liked the Brompton 'M' type bar; Have a look here (http://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.php?p=6429990&postcount=16) for my own custom solution wherein you can fit any bar you like and adjust the height/reach.
I need too to consider moving the saddle back, but there is only half an inch on the strange kind of figure seven arrangement on the seatpost. Again, maybe a new seatpost.
You can ditch the strange '7' shaped thing on the top of the seatpost - it's heavy and only exists to make a more compact fold by pushing the saddle too far forward. Without it you can still fit the saddle with the same clamp though the brompton 'pentaclip' part is more adjustable if you want to order one from SJS Cycles in Bath.
Brakes - as bad as expected. I know to oil with 3 in 1 - but umm, how, where - by unscrewing connectors to brake levers and hoping capillary action does the job. Then new pads ?
Most people recommend Koolstop Salmon coloured pads here - I've not used them so I can't comment. I use the normal brompton ones as I sprung for a better Bromton caliper and they came with it.
should I invest in new parts, removing to make it work for me - or sell it as is and buy something else.
I did ten miles on mine just this morning. I think that with a merc you get a lot of bike for the money - if you compare it to a Brompton. But I think most people would agree it's a good deal in terms of width rather than quality (on the components) so a few choice upgrades should really make it.
Gears should be fine - bombproof unit that.
So in summary I'd advise:
• new tyres - Brompton Kevlar or Schwalbe Marathons. Lighter and faster. Schwalbe Stelvio's are even lighter but more puncture prone.
• my bar hack - you just need the stem adapter and a seatpost QR clamp.
Your stem will be lower than mine as mine is an 'S' type. It may be a good idea to spring for one of these as they are a bit taller and have a subtle forward curve that will improve your cockpit length.
• lose the seat-stem '7' clamp thing and mount your own favourite saddle a bit further back
• lose the kickstand and dynamo/lighting rigs then just use normal light blinky LED lights.
• perhaps get some Brompton dual-pivot brake calipers and blocks.
Pretty much all the main brompton parts fit the bike so if you feel like upgrading the forks or rear triangle, seatpost, brake calipers it can be done pretty straightforwardly.
Littlepixel :)
LittlePixel
06-27-08, 07:42 AM
but the Merc is not a racer
Oh but I beg to differ (http://www.littlepixel.info/nocturne/) :)
it's a good deal in terms of width rather than quality
Bahahahaha - never mind the quality, feel the WIDTH. Made my day, Huw
gringo_gus
06-27-08, 07:59 AM
thanx too littelpixel - (or should I call you my adipose friend....) I like particularly your hack, although may be beyond my capabilities. But I could get an s-frame fork assembly, like you, and then just use s-frame handlebars, right? Which I have always like.
All in all the program you suggest is ubercool, will put it into action. But need to get that seatpost wobble (left-right) sorted first...
ShinyBiker
06-27-08, 08:02 AM
Congrats on your purchase!
Would love to see some pictures.
If I may ask, how much did you pay? Are you in the states? Did you pay a premium for having it shipped (if you are in the U.S.)?
gringo_gus
06-27-08, 08:04 AM
It was £332 inc shipping, but I am in the UK. I would have gone down the DT mini or curve D3 route, but the fold was mega important, so the merc won out on that... Will post pics anon.
LittlePixel
06-27-08, 08:10 AM
I like particularly your hack, although may be beyond my capabilities.
It's not really as it doesn't have to be as complicated as I documented it there; you don't have to do the hacking to the collar - you can just use a washer instead, and some QR bolts are really slim so wont need any grinding either (I've since replaced this with a new one that didn't need any work.
At it's simplest you don't even need to change your bars - you just switch out the bolt with the Quick release assembly and you can then angle the bars forward for an instant fix for more cockpit space.
Cost? About £5.
trueno92
06-27-08, 08:11 AM
wow that price is quite inviting...
now only if i could find an ORI for that much..
SesameCrunch
06-27-08, 08:20 AM
Oh but I beg to differ (http://www.littlepixel.info/nocturne/) :)
...thereby proving that it's all about the engine, not the bike...
:D
gringo_gus
06-27-08, 09:11 AM
as a ps I just took off the seat stem and saddle, prior to reversing it to give more length. Weighs in at 666 grams (the saddle of the beast), so am contemplating switching the whole thing out for a lightweight saddle, and in the short term following LittlePixel's advice and putting a qr fixing in to angle the bars forward, pro tem. This is gonna be a project, I can see.
vik
06-27-08, 09:33 AM
Oh but I beg to differ (http://www.littlepixel.info/nocturne/) :)
+1 - thanks - finally a picture. Frankly the mods should simply delete any new bike post without photos!...hahaha...just kidding.....;)
Enjoy your new ride....what's the price differential between a Merc and a similarly spec'd Brompton?
Sammyboy
06-27-08, 09:36 AM
Gigantic - about £250 I believe. A 3 speed Brommie starts at about £550, the Merc is £330, though I've heard you can get it for a little less if you try.
SesameCrunch
06-27-08, 10:00 AM
Gigantic - about £250 I believe. A 3 speed Brommie starts at about £550, the Merc is £330, though I've heard you can get it for a little less if you try.
Ah, but this doesn't begin to describe the accessories that come standard with the Merc. The front bag, lights, saddle clamp, bike bag, and others. It's a pretty huge difference as accessories are very expensive with Bromptons. Hence my willingness to put up with its eccentricities and make the Merc work for me. That and the fact that I just like to tinker....
vik
06-27-08, 10:33 AM
Ah, but this doesn't begin to describe the accessories that come standard with the Merc. The front bag, lights, saddle clamp, bike bag, and others. It's a pretty huge difference as accessories are very expensive with Bromptons. Hence my willingness to put up with its eccentricities and make the Merc work for me. That and the fact that I just like to tinker....
Is the Brompton you might buy totally dialed when you get it or would you still have to go through some/all of the issues the OP described above?
maranen
06-27-08, 10:47 AM
http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm225/maranen/15062008009.jpg
Hi
I do regularly 25 – 30 km rides with my Daigoro. A couple of times 50km – no problems with these distances.
What I did is mostly here.http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=393970&page=2
IMO Brompton/Merc has potential, but you have to spend some time and money. If Brompton were invented in Japan, it would now be available as a foldable Tyrel-style version – fast UFB - besides the short distance commuter it is today. Sorry - one has to have dreams.
EvilV
06-28-08, 02:11 PM
thanx too littelpixel - (or should I call you my adipose friend....) I like particularly your hack, although may be beyond my capabilities. But I could get an s-frame fork assembly, like you, and then just use s-frame handlebars, right? Which I have always like.
All in all the program you suggest is ubercool, will put it into action. But need to get that seatpost wobble (left-right) sorted first...
That should definitely not be happening. Is the clamp done up?
My seat post is completely solid in that respect. The seat post used to sink in when it was new, but I cleaned it and tightened the clamp a shade and it stopped happening.
Could it be that the saddle is not firmly fastened to the post? Having owned the bike for two years and ridden over 3000 miles, I just can't understand why the post should be wobbling.
jagatron
06-28-08, 03:42 PM
My seat post is completely solid in that respect. The seat post used to sink in when it was new, but I cleaned it and tightened the clamp a shade and it stopped happening.
This is what I noticed with my new Brompton during the first half dozen rides as well, and many others have commented the same. I used some mild degreaser in that area and it's been fine.