I'll keep this brief.

Height: 5'10.5"
Weight: ~342Lbs
Current Ride: 2008 Trek 7.2FX stock everything (17.5")
New Potential #1: 2007 Trek 7.5FX stock everything (17.5")
New Potential #2: 2007 Trek 7.3FX stock everything, except Avid Mechanic Disc Brakes(17.5")


A guy at work wants to buy my 7.2FX, I can turn around and buy the 7.3 or the 7.5 for the money I would get from the 7.2. Total out of pocket for me would be about $80 for either one.

Question now is, at my weight, would I busticate the 7.5 stock rims? I would potentially put Deep V's on either one with 32-spoke count (and 700x32c Conti City Contacts wheels).

Your input is invaluable to me.

Thanks,
Andrew

I'll keep this brief.

Height: 5'10.5"
Weight: ~342Lbs
Current Ride: 2008 Trek 7.2FX stock everything (17.5")
New Potential #1: 2007 Trek 7.5FX stock everything (17.5")
New Potential #2: 2007 Trek 7.3FX stock everything, except Avid Mechanic Disc Brakes(17.5")


A guy at work wants to buy my 7.2FX, I can turn around and buy the 7.3 or the 7.5 for the money I would get from the 7.2. Total out of pocket for me would be about $80 for either one.

Question now is, at my weight, would I busticate the 7.5 stock rims? I would potentially put Deep V's on either one with 32-spoke count (and 700x32c Conti City Contacts wheels).

Your input is invaluable to me.

Thanks,
Andrew

There are two schools of thought, one is that you immediately upgrade to the toughest wheel you can, hoping the dealer will credit you the cost of the OEM wheels. Second is that you make sure the OEM wheels have the proper spoke tension, and run those until they fail. Then upgrade to a tougher wheel, Personally I would rather make sure the OEM wheels have proper tension, and run those, because often times, they don't give trouble.

I am wondering why bicycle manufacturers are putting low count wheels on everything, I can see it on a full carbon RACING bike, where every gram helps, but a comfort bike, that simply limits it's market potential to heavier weight riders.

Other then having the opportunity to sell your 7.2, is there any other reason your selling it?

I went with the 7.3, on the advice of the LBS salesman, for that very reason. He said at my weight (280ish at that time) I would be better off with the higher spoke count on the 7.3. I'm pretty happy with the decision.
But, if you want the 7.5 get it and ride it till the wheels give you trouble then replace them.

There are two schools of thought, one is that you immediately upgrade to the toughest wheel you can, hoping the dealer will credit you the cost of the OEM wheels. Second is that you make sure the OEM wheels have the proper spoke tension, and run those until they fail. Then upgrade to a tougher wheel, Personally I would rather make sure the OEM wheels have proper tension, and run those, because often times, they don't give trouble.

I am wondering why bicycle manufacturers are putting low count wheels on everything, I can see it on a full carbon RACING bike, where every gram helps, but a comfort bike, that simply limits it's market potential to heavier weight riders.

Other then having the opportunity to sell your 7.2, is there any other reason your selling it?


Better components and slightly different geometry. The 7.2 feels like I'm riding through mud, the 7.3/7.5 feel like alot less mud. I would be getting either bike from CL, but have been purchased from the same LBS I purchased my bike from (therefore they transfer the warranty and free yearly tune-ups).

Plus, that Red 7.5Fx or the Black 7.3FX look better than the beater-silver that is my 7.2FX :)

Better components and slightly different geometry. The 7.2 feels like I'm riding through mud, the 7.3/7.5 feel like alot less mud. I would be getting either bike from CL, but have been purchased from the same LBS I purchased my bike from (therefore they transfer the warranty and free yearly tune-ups).

Plus, that Red 7.5Fx or the Black 7.3FX look better than the beater-silver that is my 7.2FX :)

Okay, that changes things a little, it depends on the condition of the CL bikes, even though it's only a year old, some bikes can be in great condition, and some can be nearly wrecks. It depends on how well it has been maintained and stored and whether it has been involved in any crashes (especially serious ones). I would have a good look at both bikes, and then decide. As for the 7.2, maybe try different tires....

Okay, that changes things a little, it depends on the condition of the CL bikes, even though it's only a year old, some bikes can be in great condition, and some can be nearly wrecks. It depends on how well it has been maintained and stored and whether it has been involved in any crashes (especially serious ones). I would have a good look at both bikes, and then decide. As for the 7.2, maybe try different tires....


I have city contacts on the 7.2 now.

I have seen both bikes and both are near new. Both bikes have actually been maintained quite well and both are about the same price.

I like the 7.5 FX, I just don't think 24-spoke rims can handle around 365 pounds of rider and crap.

Not answering your question, but shouldn't you be using 1 size larger? I'm 6' and use a 21".

Not answering your question, but shouldn't you be using 1 size larger? I'm 6' and use a 21".

That's what I wondered as well. I had 2 different LBS's measure me and I'm right at an 18.5. These bikes only come in 17.5 and 20 near that range. They suggest that 1" smaller would be better than 1.5" larger.... I'm starting to think they are wrong as I feel and other have commented that I look cramped on my 7.2.

His proportions may be different :) i am also 6' and my trek mtb is a 19.5" , just goes to show how different 6' can be

His proportions may be different :) i am also 6' and my trek mtb is a 19.5" , just goes to show how different 6' can be

I have gorilla arms and longer legs.

I'll keep this brief.

Height: 5'10.5"
Weight: ~342Lbs
Current Ride: 2008 Trek 7.2FX stock everything (17.5")
New Potential #1: 2007 Trek 7.5FX stock everything (17.5")
New Potential #2: 2007 Trek 7.3FX stock everything, except Avid Mechanic Disc Brakes(17.5")


A guy at work wants to buy my 7.2FX, I can turn around and buy the 7.3 or the 7.5 for the money I would get from the 7.2. Total out of pocket for me would be about $80 for either one.

Question now is, at my weight, would I busticate the 7.5 stock rims? I would potentially put Deep V's on either one with 32-spoke count (and 700x32c Conti City Contacts wheels).

Your input is invaluable to me.

Thanks,
Andrew

My main bike, Roark, is a Trek 7.5 fx. I upgraded the rear wheel after the second spoke break. But it took over 1500 miles for that to happen. I was 242, now about 20-30 pounds up :cry:, and I often ride with full panniers.

I have gorilla arms and longer legs.

That may be the clue. I'm 6' 1", with a 32 inseam, and ride a 20" 7.5 fx. My Navigator, sold to me by the same shop, is a 18".

Better components and slightly different geometry. The 7.2 feels like I'm riding through mud, the 7.3/7.5 feel like alot less mud. I would be getting either bike from CL, but have been purchased from the same LBS I purchased my bike from (therefore they transfer the warranty and free yearly tune-ups).

Plus, that Red 7.5Fx or the Black 7.3FX look better than the beater-silver that is my 7.2FX :)

Go with the classic red look:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3189/2623087881_2c4a96abfc_b.jpg

I bought a Giant TCX 1 at about 320lbs. It comes with 24 paired spokes. Cute but I knew they wouldn't last. I hoped to get 6 months out of them. I got 2 weeks (about 150 miles). I broke a spoke on the rear wheel and had a nice 2 mile walk back to my car. A friend at work called it "cross-training". I wasn't amused.

I'd upgrade the wheels immediately to something with 32 or 36 spokes. Piece of mind and it will save you the walking. My rides now take me 10 miles or more from where I park. Not a fun walk.

John

I vote 7.5, if the bike was taken care of the spokes have likly been retentioned. OTOH, the walk of shame really sucks, at the very least you should get a tough wheel built up for the rear.

You know what to do if you end up taking a new ride home ;)

That may be the clue. I'm 6' 1", with a 32 inseam, and ride a 20" 7.5 fx. My Navigator, sold to me by the same shop, is a 18".

I would advise the OP to go with the size that works. I know people my height but with different proportions riding everything from a 56 to a 66 cm bike comfortably, so I wouldn't worry much about others the same height riding different sizes at all. Seems a recipe for disaster.

Thanks to all that replied, I'm really going after the 7.3FX right now, as thanks to a mistake on my part, I wouldn't have the money to get new wheels and the 7.5FX :(