Classic & Vintage - Schwinn Typhoon and Dana 3-Speed

Hi-
I posted about this same topic in the mechanic section, but I thought maybe a post here would be beneficial as well.

Last summer I purchased a single-speed, June 1969 Schwinn Typhoon from eBay.
It's a great bike, and I plan on fixing it up to look and ride even better.
The one strange thing about this bike is that instead of a regular sprocket at the pedals, there is a large, black Dana 3-speed transmission. While it does shift and work well, it has lately started to catch on itself and stop pedaling, most recently while in a busy intersection. Because I am concerned for my safety as well as my bike's safety, I am planning on removing the transmission and replacing it with the single-speed sprocket much like the one that originally came with the bike. Here's where I have a problem.
I don't know anything about the original sprocket. I've been looking in bookstores for Schwinn repair manuals to see how the pedals are attached and what makes the bike move, but to no avail. I'm not even sure how to remove the transmission.


I'm attaching several photos, which should help describe what I'm saying.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3007/2633853901_b63d852417.jpg
this is the transmission as mounted on my bike.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3036/2633853907_8eba1d8359.jpg
Another view of whole bike.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3145/2633853911_7aa12f86a1_o.jpg
Is this how it works?

So.
How would I remove this transmission?
How does a Schwinn crankset go together?
I'm seeing terms such as "bottom bracket" and I don't really know what is what.

Thank you very much for your time and I'm hoping to be able to fix this up and ride.

Wow is that strange. 'Dana 3 speed'.

Firstly, for help with bicycle terms, try Sheldon Brown's site: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/glossary-a.html

Regarding the Dana unit, make sure it's not something easy to fix, like a binding or misadjusted shift linkage. Check lubrication & adjustment of the linkage. Check lubrication of the internals. Much easier to do simple fixes of what you have than to swap it out. Here's a thread, last entry 9/3/07. In the last post, the fellow says he has the instructions, and there's an email link. http://www.schwinnbike.com/heritage/showthread.php?t=39064&page=2&pp=15 .. General consensus there is it's a good functional unit.

The drawing you show is for the usual Schwinn bottom bracket (i.e., crank and bearing set). That's what's usually there but not what you have. If you want to install one of these, you first must take out the Dana unit. Looks like it might be installed & removed with standard techniques:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cotters.html
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

If this really has an English bottom bracket adapter of some sort, you might at this point leave the cups installed & find a nice, properly fitting square-taper spindle, and then use modern & lightweight aluminum cranks with a steel or aluminum chainring. This might require some tinkering and sleuthing and is beyond the scope of my own experience as well as what I can convey here.

After removing all the non-standard stuff, you can install a conventional Schwinn bottom bracket as pictured in the drawing. Make sure you get a 28 t.p.i. (thread per inch) OPC (one piece crank) set. Probably fine to buy a used OPC taken from a Schwinn. There are still plenty out there. Again, here's Sheldon's page: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html . You'll need some kind of press to get the 'Hanger Cups' pressed into the frame. Maybe a rubber mallet or wood block & steel hammer would do it if you're careful. The rest is easy to put in with standard home mechanic tools -- screwdriver, large adjustable wrench. May also need a pedal wrench (has narrow jaws) for the pedals.

Given the questions you are asking, you may want to find a mechanic partner. If you live in a largish city, then find a bike shop, shadetree mechanic, or bike co-op that deals with old bikes.

Good luck...

Wow. :D
Thank you very much.
The transmission is a great piece of machinery (sometimes) but it's just not for me.
For safety and aesthetic purposes, I'd much prefer the original setup.

I'll definitely try to remove the Dana unit using those methods... I just need to find a new setup, including chain (apparently skip-toothed), sprocket, crank, etc. I'm checking eBay again and I found a complete assembly (http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-VINTAGE-SCHWINN-JAGUAR-CORVETTE-CRANK-SPROCKET_W0QQitemZ230266743129QQihZ013QQcategoryZ56197QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)... but it's from a 1956 Jaguar, and while I'm fairly certain it will fit, I have my doubts.
If I were not to find a used setup, would the 28 TPI kit featured here (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/opc.html) be a good idea, used with the one-piece crank featured directly below?
Also, living in New York City, I'm sure I could find a mechanic who could install the pieces if need be... and it appears more and more like that need be... The only thing is cost. Would doing something like this be generally expensive?
I'm sorry for all the questions, but I've just been brimming with them.
Thank you again.

You want everything in that exploded view you posted. Here's an ebay for exactly what you need.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1979-SCHWINN-SPITFIRE-CRUISER-CRANK_W0QQitemZ120279321273QQihZ002QQcategoryZ420QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The secret to removing the dana 3 speed is on the left side. Take a nice photo or two if you still need help taking it off.

What do I have, or what would I have if I were to install a usual Schwinn bottom bracket?

Sorry was re-editing to add more when you posted this.

I have one of these 3 speeds, and it goes on pretty much like one piece crank, except one side is removable. No adapters or anything of that sort. It uses regular bearing cups like a one piece. You undo the
crank and adjust nut on the non drive side, and slips out. Install the one piece crank and you're done. Of course you want to remove that excellent condition chain guard before starting anything;) You're also going to need a new chain, as a 46 or 48 tooth sprocket is going to need a lot more.,,,,BD

The last step would be shipping the unwanted unit to me, hehe.

You want everything in that exploded view you posted. Here's an ebay for exactly what you need.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1979-SCHWINN-SPITFIRE-CRUISER-CRANK_W0QQitemZ120279321273QQihZ002QQcategoryZ420QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The secret to removing the dana 3 speed is on the left side. Take a nice photo or two if you still need help taking it off.

Ok. I was looking at that before. I'll check into it before it's gone. :o

I have one of these 3 speeds, and it goes on pretty much like one piece crank, except one side is removable. No adapters or anything of that sort. It uses regular bearing cups like a one piece. You undo the
crank and adjust nut on the non drive side, and slips out. Install the one piece crank and you're done. Of course you want to remove that excellent condition chain guard before starting anything;) You're also going to need a new chain, as a 46 or 48 tooth sprocket is going to need a lot more.,,,,BD

The last step would be shipping the unwanted unit to me, hehe.


So, if I take the unit off, then I have all the internals I need, and just need to buy and install an OPC?
That would be muy excellent if true.
Thank you for your response.

Because of this image, I thought the bottom bracket and other assorted internal elements were part of the transmission... not so?
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r198/rickpaulos/Dana%203%20speed%20crank/IMG_0014.jpg

Remove the non-drive side crank arm. Unscrew the locknut and adjusting cone. (Note: These have left-hand threads, unscrew by turning to the right.) Then you can pull the transmission away with the axle attached.

The pedals might be the correct ones, with 1/2" studs. However, most 3 piece cranks use 9/16" pedals, so you might have to get new pedals too. The left-side pedal is left threaded. Try 'em and if they won't go in, then you need new ones.

Well, I do not believe that the Dana three speed was original on the Typhoon. I have had a number of Typhoon and all of them had the traditional Schwinn single-piece Ashtabula crank.

I have tons of the traditional ashtabula cranks. Contact me by private message and I will fix you up.

Nope not original, but I have seen them on a few Schwinns. They may have sold them at the Schwinn dealer for all I know, and added them at the time of purchase. The pedals look to be 1/2". Back then there really was no such thing as a 9/16" cruiser pedals. They're a more modern development.,,,BD

More good news, the last time I looked those Schwinn glitter grip reproductions are still available.

Okay guys, thank you very very much.

My understanding so far is that I take out the transmission (as described above), and then I have all the pieces I need, I just install the crank.

So now I know how to remove the transmission (thanks a million).
This leads me to my next question: How do I install the OPC? and How does the sprocket fit into all this?
I'm looking at a Mag sprocket (http://cgi.ebay.com/SCHWINN-MAG-CRANK-SPROCKET-STINGRAYS-TYPHOON-ALL_W0QQitemZ120244041304QQihZ002QQcategoryZ156523QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp16 38Q2em118Q2el1247) on eBay, and I wonder if it will fit my Typhoon.


Thank you all very much again.

Hi-
also, this site was sent to me as how to disassemble... it uses a Park Tool Spanner: is there something I could use instead, seeing as I don't have this tool?
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=150

The OPC may come with sprocket already attached. IProbably a large adjustable wrench and a screwdriver will do for tools. Possibly will also need a pedal wrench if can't find a standard wrench with thin enough jaws for the pedals.

'd say, for that bike, the 'cloverleaf' chainring is the 'correct' one; I think the 'mag' chainring was used starting on the Stingray & then on other bikes beginning sometime in the '70's.

Hi-
also, this site was sent to me as how to disassemble... it uses a Park Tool Spanner: is there something I could use instead, seeing as I don't have this tool?
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=150

I've yet to find an Ashtabula BB that cannot have that raceway removed by hand, or for that matter, set by hand, and perhaps a screwdriver to pre-load the bearings.

-Kurt

I'd say, for that bike, the 'cloverleaf' chainring is the 'correct' one; I think the 'mag' chainring was used starting on the Stingray & then on other bikes beginning sometime in the '70's.

I ended up buying the piece suggested above, which had the "cloverleaf" chainring and all the parts I would need if they were not there already... It was taken off a 1979 Schwinn Spitfire, which seemingly uses the same pieces as my bike.
http://i8.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/fb/50/6767_1.JPG


I've yet to find an Ashtabula BB that cannot have that raceway removed by hand, or for that matter, set by hand, and perhaps a screwdriver to pre-load the bearings.

-Kurt

So I can just take this out by hand? That would be ideal.

Most of the time I tap them out, they're usually not in that tight.

I disassembled a 1965 super sport for cleaning yesterday and the non-drive side fell out, while the drive side was the tightest I've ever encountered. It took quite a few blows with a hammer and punch.