Framebuilders - some DIY painting questions

I have made up a few fixies that I've painted with rattlecan automotive touch up paint and gotten some very nice looking results but the paint has not proved to be durable (presumably since it doesn't have the hardeners that professional paint does). I am considering a frame build and wondering about the painting (which I want to do myself for the same reason that i want to build the frame!). So... does anyone have similar experiences? I didn't "bake" the rattlecan paint under heatlamps or anything. Has anyone tried that and has it made a difference? Has anyone had good success with any of the professional paints applied with a touch up gun and compressor? What brands? Have you tried an airbrush instead of a touch up gun?

It will be alot tougher paint job if you can find laquer based paint in a rattle can.You can always have an automotive paint shop fill rattle cans with automotive paint,it will have hardners in it also.

I have a vertical 25gal Central Air compressor from Harbor Freight, a basic touch-up gun and filter/regulator.

I use either acrylic based Createx Auto Air color paint with my airbrush, or I use regular PPG or 3M automotive two part paints from the local paint shop. I also use Omni Clear coat. It's very good quality, similar to PPG, but a bit cheaper.

Here's some threads of bikes I've painted.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=70886

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=313307

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=185895

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=171950

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=171950

My current project

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=433526

Patriot:

Wow. Thats some spectacular finishing. Gets me motivated! Thanks for taking the time to put the links together for me.

Here is a repaint of my Trek 760 using Rustoleum professional enamel + clear coat. You can get a great coat of paint with a rattle can as long as you sand in between coats. But it takes a long time to dry, and durability is iffy. I don't plan on going this route again.


http://www.garberdesign.com/bike/rebuildpaint1.jpg

I have made up a few fixies that I've painted with rattlecan automotive touch up paint and gotten some very nice looking results but the paint has not proved to be durable (presumably since it doesn't have the hardeners that professional paint does). I am considering a frame build and wondering about the painting (which I want to do myself for the same reason that i want to build the frame!). So... does anyone have similar experiences? I didn't "bake" the rattlecan paint under heatlamps or anything. Has anyone tried that and has it made a difference? Has anyone had good success with any of the professional paints applied with a touch up gun and compressor? What brands? Have you tried an airbrush instead of a touch up gun?
A slightly different approach might help with durability. Try using Plastikote car color in a spray can. It's lacquer, so it will dry fast and lays out nicely. Then, if you don't mind the added expense, get yourself a can of this (http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=21846&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=640&iSubCat=640&iProductID=21846). It's a true catalyzed clear that shoots like a small spray gun. One can will give you 2 to 3 coats on a frame and fork, if not more. You activate the can from the bottom, releasing the catalyst into the clear. Shake like crazy, and spray within 24 hours. After that, the clear sets up inside the can, and you're done. I have used it many times, and it sands and polishes very much like the automotive clears I shoot. A truly excellent product. But be forewarned, it contains isocyanates, so wear a good mask, long sleeves, a hood, and eye protection. Oh, and pants, of course.

I have used gallons of awgrip two part on boats. I believe, but may be wrong, that filters do not work for Isocyanate ( though there is lots of nasty stuff in there worth filtering out for the usual reasons). Spraying indoors with this stuff kills some unlucky people even if they have the respirator, one needs positive air pressure which comes in respirators with a line feed, or breezes.

By the way, that sounds like an interesting product, I hope someone around here has it.

I have used gallons of awgrip two part on boats. I believe, but may be wrong, that filters do not work for Isocyanate ( though there is lots of nasty stuff in there worth filtering out for the usual reasons). Spraying indoors with this stuff kills some unlucky people even if they have the respirator, one needs positive air pressure which comes in respirators with a line feed, or breezes.

By the way, that sounds like an interesting product, I hope someone around here has it.
3M does make a mask that works for iso-based products (3M #07192, 07193), but the mask must be returned to the bag it came in and sealed after every use. It has roughly 20-30 hours of use once you take it from the bag (and activate the carbon filters). So, if you were to use it once and leave it on your bench overnight, that's pretty much it. I learned that the hard way.

I also use exhaust fans with proper filters to draw out and trap most, if not all, of my overspray. Boy does that help!

I have gotten nice looking, and durable results using Rustoleum "protective enamel". This is an oil based enamel so it takes several hours to stop being sticky, and a couple of days to a week to harden depending on weather. It doesn't get super hard, so is very chip resistant, but not really soft. It gloss levels very nice. Some tips:

Read directions on can...there is a time window where you _don't_ want to re-coat. You need to add additional coats either while the last coat is still sticky, or after the paint is fully hard.

It really works best on bare metal....no primer, no old paint. Light surface rust seems to make it stick even better.

Weird, but using WD-40 as a prep seems to work REALLY well with this paint. A friend discovered this when trying to prevent it sticking in certain areas. Turns out it made it stick _better_. Spray some on and remove as much as you can with a rag or paper towel, Also prevents clean steel from rusting while you work on other areas, or get ready to paint. This is about the only thing I use WD-40 for.

I have a beater car. I use this as an "oven" to speed the hardening of the paint. You know all those PSA ads warning you not to leave kids or dogs in a parked car....if it is hot enough to kill a dog, it is hot enough to cure paint! Note I wouldn't do this with a good car....takes a few days to air the smell out.

I've tried the Rustoleum "professional enamel" as well. Faster drying but not as durable IME.