Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Steamroller Complete: what to upgrade first?

I am new to fixed gear cycling, and I just bought the 2008 Steamroller complete from Surly. And so I turn to you, the fixed-gear gurus, to tell me which parts of the Steamer you would recommend upgrading first. I use the bike to commute 10-20 miles a day and to ride aggressively on roads and some trails about 150 miles per week (I have thicker treads for the paths). What components should I start to shop for now in order to upgrade this Surly to make it better than it already is for my purposes?

And thanks in advance for not being a ****head to the new guy.


Here are the specs on the Steamroller in case you don't know already:

Frame: 4130 CroMoly steel. Main triangle double butted. TIG-welded

Fork: CroMoly, lugged and brazed. 1-1/8" threadless steer tube

Headset: Ritchey Logic Comp. 1-1/8" threadless, w/ 30mm spacers. Black

Stem: Kalloy 1-1/8" threadless. Forged. 25.4mm clamp. Silver

Handlebars: Zoom 25.4mm clamp area. Aluminum. Silver

Handlebar: wrap Co-Union Cork Mix, Black

Brake Lever: Tektro RL570 Front cross lever. Black

Brake: Tektro R356 Front caliper. Black

Crankarms: Sugino RD, Silver w/ 48t ring

Pedals: (my own addition): Crankbrothers Mallets

Bottom Bracket: Sugino 68x103mm

Seatpost: Kalloy - SP-248D Silver. 27.2mm

Seatpost Clamp: Surly Stainless Natural Silver

Saddle: Velo Endzone Steel rails. Black

Cassette: Surly fixed gear 3/32" 19tooth, Surly lockring included

Chain: SRAM PC-48

Hubs: Surly Silver 32hole, 120mm O.L.D. fixed/free

Spokes: DT Swiss 14g stainless. Silver

Rims: Alex DA-13 Silver. 700c, 32 hole

Tires: Maxxis Detonator 700 x 25. Tanwall

Tubes: Cheng Shin 700 x 25

saddle

Aside from maybe a saddle, which is a personal preference part, nothing.

Ride the bike and make sure it fits right, that will make a much bigger difference that any minor parts upgrade would.
Why would you want to upgrade a new bike anyway?

Aside from maybe a saddle, which is a personal preference part, nothing.

Ride the bike and make sure it fits right, that will make a much bigger difference that any minor parts upgrade would.
Why would you want to upgrade a new bike anyway?

+1, get nice clipless shoes if you don't have them already -- to make riding clipless comfortable! get a pro fit if you can afford it. unless you're looking for bling the steamroller is good out of the box. like others said I wouldn't blame you if you wanted to ditch the velo saddle though. saddles are personal preference as much as pedals are, surly just threw on the cheapest one probably!

Just got a Steamroller last week myself. I love this bike:thumb: I took off all the decals yesterday, looks great. I'm going to change the saddle for sure. I'm thinking about some straight bars, and suggestions?

So, what saddles do you all recommend?

So, what saddles do you all recommend?

My personal choice is Brooks, and I like the B-17. I've been riding on them for over 15 years and won't ride on any other saddle.

on one extreme are modern race saddles like the fizik arione. these i call "flat pancake" saddles and you have to have a certain butt shape to find comfort in them. the other extreme are the concor-modeled ones: san marco rolls and regal, kashimax, and the concor itself. they have more dramatic vertical and horizontal contours and fit a different type of butt.

because of the brooks construction (leather suspended between two fixed points) and the inherent qualities of leather as a textile they give a floating effect that eventually conforms to one's tush.

i can recommend the b17 to most any butt! it takes many hundred miles to break in but eventually they are the bee's knees. the N version is for those with small taints.

So, what saddles do you all recommend?

Brooks B-17 FTW. Not much better than other saddles at first, but after a while they get very comfy. The standard break-in procedure (Proofhide) is recommended.

I got it on both my bikes, one which is broken in and another which is almost there.

saddle, maybe handlebar - brake lever setup (to suit your preference) and tires. other than that ride the hell out of it, when things break replace them. The steamroller has probably the best stock entry level parts group, you will be spending money for little performance gain.

i upgraded the saddle after a month of riding or so to a brooks b17 and i changed out the stem before i even rode thing out of the shop for salsa stem...get yourself some decent pedals and you will be good to go

everything else on my steamroller is basically stock even the tires, but i have some all white vittorias coming to me soon

Just got a Steamroller last week myself. I love this bike:thumb: I took off all the decals yesterday, looks great. I'm going to change the saddle for sure. I'm thinking about some straight bars, and suggestions?

i want some straight bars too and i was checking out these-i want the gold ones
http://store.somafab.com/sostba.html

most of the stock parts are decent, i switched out only the saddle and the bike shope swapped the stem for free

for my 1st fixed i wanted something complete...i may start a side build project later

i don't plan on switching anything else unless it breaks

Pink. Terror: Why do people buy a "complete" bike and then turn around and start swapping parts? If your going to do that, then just build the damn thing up from scratch.

You'll get a much better bike


Noema: Bc it costs more to build a bike from scratch than to buy a complete, if you do not have the tools to build it yourself, as I do not.

depending on what you switch out you may need to purchase the tools or get in good with a bike shop in your area

the wheel set has held up well for me and i feel like i have been riding them pretty hard, the bike can take some abuse for sure

Pink. Terror: Why do people buy a "complete" bike and then turn around and start swapping parts? If your going to do that, then just build the damn thing up from scratch.

You'll get a much better bike


Noema: Bc it costs more to build a bike from scratch than to buy a complete, if you do not have the tools to build it yourself, as I do not.

we do have a quote button

i upgraded the saddle, then my gearing, bars..

we do have a quote button

I know.

on one extreme are modern race saddles like the fizik arione. these i call "flat pancake" saddles and you have to have a certain butt shape to find comfort in them. the other extreme are the concor-modeled ones: san marco rolls and regal, kashimax, and the concor itself. they have more dramatic vertical and horizontal contours and fit a different type of butt.

because of the brooks construction (leather suspended between two fixed points) and the inherent qualities of leather as a textile they give a floating effect that eventually conforms to one's tush.

i can recommend the b17 to most any butt! it takes many hundred miles to break in but eventually they are the bee's knees. the N version is for those with small taints.

There are a few different B 17 saddles. What is the difference between the B 17 standard and the B 17 Special? Is it just the plating? And what makes the Team Professional models more expensive than the B 17s?

we have some sassy folks in here

Instead of upgrading individual components I would get another wheelset with cross tires since you like to ride on dirt trails.
You can pretty much upgrade components as they break or wear out. But I would swap out the saddle or gearing if they're not working for you.

Instead of upgrading individual components I would get another wheelset with cross tires since you like to ride on dirt trails.
You can pretty much upgrade components as they break or wear out.

+1 good call
i may do this also...switching out would be quick and easy

points of contact are the obvious choice, that is anywhere you touch the bike so saddle, bars, and pedals. from there depending on how hard you ride a carbon fork would strip some weight and dampen road and trail vibration, and then lastly a quality wheelset.

of course at that point you should have just built it up yourself since thats pretty much everything.

+1 good call
i may do this also...switching out would be quick and easy

That is a good idea.

i upgraded the saddle after a month of riding or so to a brooks b17 and i changed out the stem before i even rode thing out of the shop for salsa stem...get yourself some decent pedals and you will be good to go

everything else on my steamroller is basically stock even the tires, but i have some all white vittorias coming to me soon

Does anyone know what makes the Brooks Team Professional models more expensive than the B 17s? Is it more comfortable, durable, or what?

www.brookssaddles.com/brooksengland.html

i am no pro on these but i would guess the materials used...some have titanium rails and the b17 champion that i have has steel rails...check it out for yourself

I'm confused.

Perhaps it's my inferior intellect, but it seems to me that you bought a complete bike, as opposed to building a bike from scratch, to avoid potentially incurring additional expenses by having to purchase tools. Now you want to switch parts, which may require you to purchase said tools, thereby incurring said previously-avoided expenses anyway. Am I wrong or just stupid?

welcome to the wonderful world of bikes

yes, welcome and enjoy the ride

I'm confused.

Perhaps it's my inferior intellect, but it seems to me that you bought a complete bike, as opposed to building a bike from scratch, to avoid potentially incurring additional expenses by having to purchase tools. Now you want to switch parts, which may require you to purchase said tools, thereby incurring said previously-avoided expenses anyway. Am I wrong or just stupid?

Answer: Stupid.

It takes more than money to build a good bike from scratch, it also takes a certain knowledge-base, which most newcomers to fixies lack. So what is the best way to learn? Get a complete bike, ride it, break parts, and ask others good questions in order to learn from them. C'mon man. Why sit with half a bike when you can buy the complete and learn as you ride?

I love to tinker, regardless.... :D

round and round we go...
i am in the same boat, i bought a complete bike and i am riding it and switching parts out as i see fit but for now i am just riding and enjoying it
learning as you go is fine

www.brookssaddles.com/brooksengland.html

i am no pro on these but i would guess the materials used...some have titanium rails and the b17 champion that i have has steel rails...check it out for yourself

The Brooks B 17 narrow looks like a good saddle for sport riding. How do you all think it would treat the ass on longer rides?

http://www.brooksengland.com/shop/shopProductDetail.aspx?id=uid-20070518.182407.937.5000-6-00145E457A63-------------------77

Can't beat the black color.

it should not be lacking in support it only has a slightly narrower profile where the legs pass the edge of the saddle for more efficient pedaling...i am sure the width of the saddle is similar to that of the B17

i am sure your ass be treated great on the narrow

I got the Brooks and it looks great. Had her a week and a half and I have put about 150 miles on her. The saddle is continuously getting more comfortable. The mallet pedals make a big difference to the ride as well.

Thanks for all your help.


http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m480/sightsome/IMG_2818.jpg


http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m480/sightsome/IMG_2823.jpg

http://i335.photobucket.com/albums/m480/sightsome/IMG_2825.jpg

Very nice.
did you upgrade the rims as well? (anything else I missed?)

A Brooks B17 is an excellent saddle. I have a Brooks Swallow because it is slick-looking, but it does not compare to my Brooks B17. If you buy a Brooks, don't spend your money on the more expensive models -- go for the B17.

I also have a 25+ year Brooks saddle that is basically the original version of the B17. Dang comfy, and old-school cool.

Very nice.
did you upgrade the rims as well? (anything else I missed?)

No. The only upgrades are the saddle and the pedals. I got Mallets (the cheapest version) and good mountain bike shoes (Shimano, nice and stiff). It makes for a very comfy and quick ride even on rough street surfaces.

Things I've upgraded on my Surly Steamroller:
Saddle - Sella Italia Flite Gel (from the spare parts bin)
Seatpost - Torque Ti (from the spare parts bin)
Pedals - MKS Slyvan
Chainring - Sugino 46t (easier for town riding)
Bars - Nitto RB-018 bullhorns

I probably should have just built up the frame, but I was getting paralysis by analysis when trying to build one up. I got a great deal on the complete and was done with it.

Answer: Stupid.

It takes more than money to build a good bike from scratch, it also takes a certain knowledge-base, which most newcomers to fixies lack. So what is the best way to learn? Get a complete bike, ride it, break parts, and ask others good questions in order to learn from them. C'mon man. Why sit with half a bike when you can buy the complete and learn as you ride?

Dear new person: don't be a d*ck. You asked us not to, please follow the same rule.

I understand the issue that keeps coming up - it is kind of annoying to see someone buy a complete bike and then immediately start asking "what do I need to upgrade?" It sounds a lot like "what should I have bought in the first place?" On a FG, it only takes 2-3 upgrades to pretty much negate the money saved by buying complete vs building your own. There just aren't that many parts.

Is something on the bike bothering you? Then go ahead and replace it. I don't have any problem with the approach you initially took. You bought a complete bike because you wanted a good deal and wanted to try stuff before deciding on parts, and because you didn't want to initially drop $$ on tools. Good call. However, why aren't you just riding for awhile and seeing what you like/dislike for yourself? Try a couple of weeks and then come back and report what you like/dislike. Don't worry, tons of people will still want to give you their opinion on what you should do then, but this time you will have the bonus of opinions of your own.

To top it off, some of the stuff you say seems a little off. You correct people because you think they fail to recognize the deal you got by buying a complete bike, and then a couple posts later you agree that buying a complete second wheelset just to have is a good idea? What are you going to do, change wheels mid commute? In addition, you acknowledge the "best approach" is to "Get a complete bike, ride it, break parts, and ask others good questions in order to learn from them." You are going straight from buy complete bike to ask others, but your questions are not good. They are totally general and don't give any indication of what you want to improve about your ride, and that's because you don't know what you want to improve! Honestly, I think you have the right idea. Go ride. Say what you think.

Finally, one quick observation. This is very much a preference thing, but try bringing the nose on your B17 up until the top is level or if anything, slightly nose up. I know this is completely different than the setup on most modern saddles, but the Brooks is a different beast. The way you have it set, you are more likely to slide onto the skinny part of the nose, causing discomfort. Bringing the nose up is more likely to keep your butt where it should be for proper support. Give it a shot.

Finally, one quick observation. This is very much a preference thing, but try bringing the nose on your B17 up until the top is level or if anything, slightly nose up. I know this is completely different than the setup on most modern saddles, but the Brooks is a different beast. The way you have it set, you are more likely to slide onto the skinny part of the nose, causing discomfort. Bringing the nose up is more likely to keep your butt where it should be for proper support. Give it a shot.

This is a very good advice. Sheldon Brown also mentioned this. And for good reasons. :thumb:

Dear new person: don't be a d*ck. You asked us not to, please follow the same rule.

I understand the issue that keeps coming up - it is kind of annoying to see someone buy a complete bike and then immediately start asking "what do I need to upgrade?" It sounds a lot like "what should I have bought in the first place?" On a FG, it only takes 2-3 upgrades to pretty much negate the money saved by buying complete vs building your own. There just aren't that many parts.

Is something on the bike bothering you? Then go ahead and replace it. I don't have any problem with the approach you initially took. You bought a complete bike because you wanted a good deal and wanted to try stuff before deciding on parts, and because you didn't want to initially drop $$ on tools. Good call. However, why aren't you just riding for awhile and seeing what you like/dislike for yourself? Try a couple of weeks and then come back and report what you like/dislike. Don't worry, tons of people will still want to give you their opinion on what you should do then, but this time you will have the bonus of opinions of your own.

To top it off, some of the stuff you say seems a little off. You correct people because you think they fail to recognize the deal you got by buying a complete bike, and then a couple posts later you agree that buying a complete second wheelset just to have is a good idea? What are you going to do, change wheels mid commute? In addition, you acknowledge the "best approach" is to "Get a complete bike, ride it, break parts, and ask others good questions in order to learn from them." You are going straight from buy complete bike to ask others, but your questions are not good. They are totally general and don't give any indication of what you want to improve about your ride, and that's because you don't know what you want to improve! Honestly, I think you have the right idea. Go ride. Say what you think.

Finally, one quick observation. This is very much a preference thing, but try bringing the nose on your B17 up until the top is level or if anything, slightly nose up. I know this is completely different than the setup on most modern saddles, but the Brooks is a different beast. The way you have it set, you are more likely to slide onto the skinny part of the nose, causing discomfort. Bringing the nose up is more likely to keep your butt where it should be for proper support. Give it a shot.

Cool, man. There's no problem here.

The seat was set like that by the LBS. It took me a mile or two of riding to discover the problem and correct it. Good call. (And, in case you are still looking for contradictions in an online chartroom discussion, the pics were taken before that discovery was made.)

The thread was started because I wanted to know what to put on the bike/take off in order to make it the best ride possible. That's it. I did not want to strip the frame and rebuild or anything like that. I am not that aggressive. Otherwise, yeah, I would have built my own. I asked in this forum in order to know what parts are weak in the set up, what parts don't work well, what can be added to make it more comfortable, just in case I did not notice them, AND so that I could begin to keep an eye out for good deals on these parts. I bought the Surly because it is a sturdy, tough, and quick bike, and it is reputed to have amongst the best entry level components. But, if some of these components (despite be good) have a flaw that you guys already know about, why not ask so that I can know what is coming and plan ahead?

In any case, there will be no major overhaul on the bike anytime soon, if what I hear is correct, and if my experience with the bike so far is indicative of the future.

OK. Enough about me. (Who cares about me anyway?) Back to the bike.

There has been some discussion of a messed up chain ring on the Steamroller.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=338855

But, I've had no problems with the chain drive at all. And, I've noticed that none of you have done anything to modify it (If I've missed something, let me know). What's all that talk about then? Is it just that it won't accommodate a certain kind of chain or what?

There has been some discussion of a messed up chain Line on the Steamroller.


I have seen this discussed several places, to this point i have had no problem with the rd cranks on the steamroller

To top it off, some of the stuff you say seems a little off. You correct people because you think they fail to recognize the deal you got by buying a complete bike, and then a couple posts later you agree that buying a complete second wheelset just to have is a good idea? What are you going to do, change wheels mid commute?


I fail to see the contradiction in having one wheelset for the road and having another for the trail.

There has been some discussion of a messed up chain ring on the Steamroller.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=338855

But, I've had no problems with the chain drive at all. And, I've noticed that none of you have done anything to modify it (If I've missed something, let me know). What's all that talk about then? Is it just that it won't accommodate a certain kind of chain or what?

I should say that the chain does sound a bit clanky at times (especially when I just spin the cranks going downhill or something). But it is not bad. It just does not consistently deliver that clean "whoosh". It seems to me that this is probably normal. But am I wrong? Could this be the main problem people have?

There has been some discussion of a messed up chain ring on the Steamroller.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=338855

But, I've had no problems with the chain drive at all. And, I've noticed that none of you have done anything to modify it (If I've missed something, let me know). What's all that talk about then? Is it just that it won't accommodate a certain kind of chain or what?


I should say that the chain does sound a bit clanky at times (especially when I just spin the cranks going downhill or something). But it is not bad. It just does not consistently deliver that clean "whoosh". It seems to me that this is probably normal. But am I wrong? Could this be the main problem people have?

If it is not too bad, my vote is not to worry about it. You aren't really hurting anything (you maybe could make a case that the drivetrain *might* wear a tiny little bit faster, but there is other stuff that makes a bigger difference in drivetrain wear and tear, like chain tension)


I fail to see the contradiction in having one wheelset for the road and having another for the trail.

The contradiction was in saving money and getting a good deal. I love multiple wheelsets, and for a while I had a set of "street" wheels for my mountain bike and a set of "trail" wheels, for basically the same reason listed here - so I didn't have to change tires. However, if you are trying to go for value, spending $150-$200 for a new wheelset just so you don't have to spend an extra 10min to switch tires when going from trail riding to street riding doesn't make sense to me. If the convenience outweights the money, then it's a good deal and you should go for it. In addition, it sounded like this bike is primarily a commuting bike, and that the trails you encounter are part of your commute, which is why I asked what the point was - would you change your wheels mid commute?

If I am interpreting this wrong, and the road trips and trail trips are seperate, and you are OK with spending for a second wheelset, then go for it.

Yeah. If you keep the chain tension right and keep it clean and lubed, it should do fine. Perhaps, changing the size of the chainring can make it better for certain kinds of riding, as Dave the Aggie suggested above. But, if it suits you, keep it as is until it needs replacing. And I wouldn't expect that to go first anyway.

I haven't had any issues with my RD cranks either. The chain can sometimes get a bit noisey, but then I clean it up and all is well.

My Surly is only for commuting to work (10 miles roundtrip) and the occasional social ride. I have a road bike for my real training. Swapping to the 46t made it much easier to get going from stops. I also prefer the higher cadence. I don't need to haul arse to the office.

I have thought about throwing on some larger tires or even some CX for some SS trail rides. The Steamroller is such a versatile frame.

no problems with chainline here...the noise that i hear comes from a 1/8 chain on a 3/32 cog and chainring i believe but if i do keep the chain clean and the tension correct i don't really notice the drivetrain noise anymore


just put the vittoria zaffiro pros on last week and i love them so far...the white tires make the bike look very classy and they ride great too, supposed to be a great training tire


the pictures are coming

I’ve been thinking about switching out the bars on my Steamroller to straight, or almost straight bars, and adding leather tape. Anyone have a good online source for these? I like the new Soma Straight Bars, which actually have a 5 degree bend, but I don't want pink or blue... just chrome.