Folding Bikes - Weird clicking noise from Curve D3

When I put a litle weight on the handlebars or pulling on them a little, I'm getting an odd metallic clicking noise, from the area of the handlebars or possibly the post. It's not regular and at semingly random times. Has anyone experienced this? It's a little alarming.

I get what sounds like creaking sometimes.

it is likely the nut inside the base of the handlepost that affects the locking lever's resistance. It gets loose over time. Get a Size 8 spanner and gently tighten it a little, then test the handlepost lever that it hasn't become too tight.

It's such a common happening that I carry a Size 8 in my saddle pouch. Haha!

The other tool handy to carry is the Size 15 for changing tires.

it is likely the nut inside the base of the handlepost that affects the locking lever's resistance. It gets loose over time. Get a Size 8 spanner and gently tighten it a little, then test the handlepost lever that it hasn't become too tight.

It's such a common happening that I carry a Size 8 in my saddle pouch. Haha!

The other tool handy to carry is the Size 15 for changing tires.

I assume you're talking about this:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2074/2307125749_5a828013b8_o.jpg (http://flickr.com/photos/myuu_0622/2307125749/)

I tightened it tonight and the post feels more solid already. I'll see how it feels on the road tomorrow. Thanks!

I have this problem too on the Vitesse. I'm unclear which nut you mean to tighten.

Yes, that is the troublesome nut in the photo. I am told Loctite helps.

It worked fine this morning. No clicking!

On a similar note, my Downchoob got a creepy creak, Yan mailed to say lube all the metal-metal contact areas. Greased the handle-post fold hinge surfaces, creak has gone.

This happened with my Mu SL's frame fold at the beginning of the summer, but then it went away after a bit. I just thought it had to do with parts expanding and such.

It is my personal opinion that this latch design sufferes from several deficiencies, most of which can be handled by Loctiting the various screws.

That ringed bolt (which looks like a nut in the photo), take some mild threadlocker Loctite and apply some on the threads, then screw it to the correct setting for the latch to close firmly (but not extremely firm).

The sliding plate which is held by the 2 bolts in the photo, MUST slide freely; the 2 bolts must NOT be tight. Don't unscrew them as there is a fiddly spring at each one. Just make sure the latch plate can slide freely. Some talcum powder will help. It is also important that it is square on the plastic block, or the block will crack when tightening the latch. So make sure it slides freely and symmetrically at both those bolts. The bolts should screwed in all the way and then unscrewed to allow the plate to slide.

Check your handlepost hinge periodically; there are altogether 6 screws, any of which can come undone and potentially make riding dangerous. Ideally all 6 should be Loctited but unless you are a techie they might be best left alone (except the 3 obvious ones in the photo).

Incidently, what size allen key is needed for the headset cap (if that's the right term)?