Road Cycling - Frame balance/no hands riding

I've noticed over the years that some bikes ride better no hands than others. Some track so straight while centered over the saddle with no hands, even going slowly. Is this a viable measure of a frame's balance? I realize, of course, that if a bike lists obviously to the right or left, then it's a problem.

I also noticed on a bike with a steep head tube angle the ability to keep a smooth line was diminished. Geometry and quality are factors. Also, a loose headset will cause shimmying.

I've noticed over the years that some bikes ride better no hands than others. Some track so straight while centered over the saddle with no hands, even going slowly. Is this a viable measure of a frame's balance? I realize, of course, that if a bike lists obviously to the right or left, then it's a problem.

I often wondered that myself. I cannot ride my Litespeed Classic no hands at slow speeds, yet that's possible with my steep angled track bike and also with my relaxed angled Surly Steamroller. I don't get it...

George

Oh good,
I don't 'get it' either. I have read that a lot of bikes are not perfectly true; and thought maybe that might account for the difference. But other than that. I don't have a clue.

Couldn't it also be you have a different position on the bike, I find the biggest issue with keeping a line with no hands is my pedal stroke, which can be influenced by the bike your on.

A shorter wheelbase will make a bike more "twitchy" in its handling. I know in the past I've noticed that bikes with a longer wheelbase (the distance between where front and back wheels contacts the ground) are easier to ride whithout hands.

I doubt that's the only reason, but it could be one.

I don't know the correct terminology, but I think that a bike that has more trail will track more easily. Look at the front fork. How much does it lean away from the vertical, and how much curve is there at the bottom? The amount of "lean" and curve combine to make the wheel tend to self-center, allowing it to track more easily without hands.

I also noticed on a bike with a steep head tube angle the ability to keep a smooth line was diminished. Geometry and quality are factors. Also, a loose headset will cause shimmying.

A steep head tube angle makes a better maneuvering bike; hence harder to keep going straight. A too-tight headset will make it more difficult to correct when the bike falls off to one side. Any miss-alignment of the rear wheel will also make it difficult to track no-hands.

Al

Ive ridden badly aligned frames; you could see the headtube veering off-axis, and the fork"prongs" went in different directions. It was almost impossible to ride no-handed. Frame and fork alignment is one of the things that you pay for, but it doesnt appear in the specs chart.

The combo of headtube angle and fork rake is important. These 2 factors are inter-dependant, the HTA affects the sensitivity of the bike to changes in rake.

The wheel base may play a part, but generally, long WB bikes are designed for touring or leisure use, so have stable steering designed in. Compare a small womens touring bike, with a large guys racing bike. Which has the longest WB, and which has the most stable steering!!

I also find that it takes some time to adjust to a new geometry, but once I do, the old one feels "off".

I don't know the correct terminology, but I think that a bike that has more trail will track more easily. Look at the front fork. How much does it lean away from the vertical, and how much curve is there at the bottom? The amount of "lean" and curve combine to make the wheel tend to self-center, allowing it to track more easily without hands.

The actual terms are Rake and Trail (or Camber and Caster if you speak the "Queen's English".)

The curve (or angle of a straight-bladed fork) is fork offset.

Weight of the steering assembly figures-in. Heavier bars, levers, etc. are more reluctant to change direction on their own, but once they do start moving they're more likely to keep moving.

Wheelbase also plays a factor, as does weight distribution between the two wheels.

Then there's gyroscopic mass (or rotational weight). Heavier wheels (or wheels spinning quickly) have more gyroscopic stability, and therefore resist being pivoted from their rotational plane (i.e. they require more force to steer or lean.)

I've also personally noticed a difference in tires... Some tires are more sluggish in response, thereby lending directional stability.

Of course, all of the above assumes that things are in good repair (as pointed-out by others)!

-Erik "It's never a simple answer" Rocha

Well, aren't all bikes (not frames) off balance anyway, with the drivetrain? Does this matter?

Every bike i've owned i rode with no hands but thats just me.I do'nt think my sting ray or my 3 speed in the 60's were balanced. Nowadays i ride wothout hands only to take a wraper off a bar or to just sit up for a few seconds,not for miles at a time. It does take a bit of getting use to on a road bike.I think because they are just light.

Unbalanced weight is not a problem for no-handed riding. I regularly use a single pannier with tools/clothing and water, and sometimes a little shopping. It has no discernable efect on handling, or on my ability to ride no-handed.

I can ride my road bike no hands- 72 degree seat tube angle, 73.5 degree head tube angle, 4 cm rake, 7 cm bottom bracket drop.

I canNOT ride my hybrid no hands- 73 degree seat tube angle, 71 degree head tube angle, 5 cm rake, high bottom bracket.

All of the above assumes that the RIDER is balanced (or can balance their internal gyro) comfortably while sitting up. As a Kid (back in the "English Racer" days) I rode no hands up and down hills without any problem. Now at a more advanced age I find it a bit unsettling to attempt it because I just don't have the automatic balancing thing going that I did as a kid. Could it be that age and greater awareness of mortality, infalibility and the the knowladge that I am NOT invisable have anything to do with this??? Oh, YEA!! As a kid a scraped knee bothered me about as long as it took me to pick my bike up. Now a fall could put me off the bike for up to a week depending on how hard I hit. I think awareness of this plays a part as well as the balance of the bike. But that is just my two cents on the matter!!

One thing to look for if the headset is good and the wheels are aligned yet you're still having trouble riding no handed is the rear break and shifter housing length. To little or too much housing can push the handler bars off line. When setting up a bike, I always make sure that the bars rest at center when I have it in the bike stand.

-s