Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets - Building a headlight - I've never done anything like this

Okay, for some background you can look at http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=434281 where I was asking about comparing Lumens to Watts and trying to get better lighting through maybe switching to LEDs.

But, there seems to be no way to really compare lighting systems without a side-by-side in the dark. :(

Now, after wandering around Lowes today, I think I'm willing to try and build (?) make (?) :eek: my own headlight(s).

Here's what I've got:
2 MR11 6v 20 watt bulbs. 12 degree spots
3 MR16 12v 50 watt bulbs spots (I bought today for $10)
1 Nite-Hawk 6v 10watt complete headlight assembly with battery and charger (which is about 4 years old now)

What I'm thinking is I can use regular PVC plumbing pieces to make a headlight assembly and waterproof it. I don't think the heat will be too much of an issue as the Nite-Hawk headlight assembly appears to be PVC also - but I could be wrong. Only cost about $4 per piece for the PVC and I was thinking 2 headlights mounted together.

Or, there at Lowes there are some outdoor 12v 'patio' lights that I could use ($13 ea) that are metal (alum) and should take care of any heat issues.

Now, my real questions are:
1> Using halogen MR16s (or the MR11s) would I need any kind of 'regulator' or anything? I would assume, which I know can be dangerous, that they should be about like regular 110/120v light bulbs that don't require anything special other than competent electrical components/operator :innocent:

2> If I use the MR11s I should be able to use the battery and charger from the Nite-Hawk as I get 3 hours out of it now. But, if I use the MR16s I'll need a 12v battery and charger and need some guidance in what to buy for that. I would really like to try the MR16s as they should put out some really HONKing light. :D

For the battery (12v) I only need about 1 hour power for my daily commute as I can recharge it at work and home as long as the charger isn't some really big affair.

3> Where are some good places to pick up the sockets for the MR11s or MR16s? Unless I buy the 'patio' lights at Lowes which are MR16s, I'll need to find these as Lowes didn't have any.

Comments and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Those 50W jobs might melt a pvc pipe. That's a lot of heat.

Check on the 50 watters melting plastic, I use my metal Night Sun headlight. I had a 100 watt bulb start to melt the PAR36 rubber mount it was in. Any store selling track lighting should have metal MR16 holders. A good lamp store will have the little sockets that mate with the pins on the bulbs. Solder the connections when you can. I have troubles with crimped connections coming apart.

Here is a very good MR-16 bike light instructable.
http://www.instructables.com/id/BIKE-LIGHT-500-Lumen-%22Mt.Bike%22-for-under-10-bucks-/
50 watt MR-16 will melt the plastic used in the above light project. A single 20 watt MR-16 will provide more than enough light.
You'll need sockets for your MR-16 bulbs. Sometimes these are hard to find without purchasing an entire MR-16 bulb fixture. You can get them from DX cheap with free shipping.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13920

Those 50W jobs might melt a pvc pipe. That's a lot of heat.

Check on the 50 watters melting plastic, I use my metal Night Sun headlight. I had a 100 watt bulb start to melt the PAR36 rubber mount it was in. Any store selling track lighting should have metal MR16 holders. A good lamp store will have the little sockets that mate with the pins on the bulbs. Solder the connections when you can. I have troubles with crimped connections coming apart.

Modo and Ken - thanks for the input

Here is a very good MR-16 bike light instructable.
http://www.instructables.com/id/BIKE-LIGHT-500-Lumen-%22Mt.Bike%22-for-under-10-bucks-/
50 watt MR-16 will melt the plastic used in the above light project. A single 20 watt MR-16 will provide more than enough light.
You'll need sockets for your MR-16 bulbs. Sometimes these are hard to find without purchasing an entire MR-16 bulb fixture. You can get them from DX cheap with free shipping.
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.13920

n4 - thanks for the links.... the first one makes it look really easy.

I think I'll probably get the 'patio' lights since they're alum and should take care of the heat issue. And, since they are already set up with MR16s I won't have to also get the sockets.

Curiosity on the second link..... "FIRE PROOF" sockets? How danged hot do these things get? :eek:

I have come across something that I was wondering how it might work...... ahhh Lowes doesn't seem to wanna let me 'borrow' the link..... it is a UTILITECH Lead Acid Replacement Battery, 6v 4.5Ah item#30128 made for emergency lighting - like in the stairwells at hospitals and such.

If I put 2 of these in line (in series? - I know the right way, just not which is the correct term) I'd have 12 volts, and isn't 4.5Ah a pretty good size for extended run time? I'd think it would have to be a lot more than 10 AA batteries.

Or am I biting off more than I should to start with. I guess I could always 'upgrade' the battery system, right? I'm kinda thinking about 2 headlights on the bike as a really big chunk of my winter is riding in the dark.... leave for work at 4:30 a.m., head home 12 hours later - and most of it is on US11.

Thanks again guys. :thumb: