Advocacy & Safety - best bike lock

I am a college student and I keep getting my bikes stolen. I was wondering....maybe those kryptonite locks I get from walmart arn't the best option for me. Right now I have a GT timberline and it scratches really easily so i get those longer u-locks so I don't scratch it. Both of my wheels are QR...and I don't think there is a way for me to replace them with bolts without replacing the entire axle. I put the lock through the front wheel and frame. the seat is secured to the frame with a cable lock....when i leave it over night i also put the cable lock through the rear wheel. so my question is...what are the best brands of cable locks and u-locks? how many do i need to secure this thing once and for all? what do thiefs look for when they steal a bike (which components). are there any recovery services such as lojack for cars only for bikes so even if someone takes it, I can at least track down the frame.

thx

James

I am a college student and I keep getting my bikes stolen.

so my question is...what are the best brands of cable locks and u-locks? how many do i need to secure this thing once and for all?
Xred_octoberx,

The first thing is that locks are not all you need. Theft prevention is multi-faceted. Combine theft-prevention techniques to secure your bike.

For example, if my bike is indoors, I don't even need to lock it. If I park it in front of a security guard I know personally, it's probably safe, even with a crappy lock. If I leave it in the open with only one lock, and it's a good bike, chances are it's a matter of time before somebody snatches it.

Combine theft prevention techniques. Get two great, different locks. Park it where eyes can see it and prevent it. And remember this story--

Two guys are camping. At bedtime, one puts on his running shoes. His buddy says, "What's up with that?"

He replies, "I'm putting on my running shoes in case of bears."

"But you know you can't outrun a bear!" his buddy exclaims.

"I don't have to," says the man in tennis shoes. "All I have to do is outrun you."

Don't park a nice bike around a group of junkers. Park inside if you can. If you can't, paint your nice bike pink (if you want to keep it.)

Try one of these

http://www.kryptonitelock.com/inetisscripts/abtinetis.exe/PublicArticleDetails@public?artid=2735&atf=products_item&pgrp=20

CHEERS.

Mark

I have the massive kryptonite fahgaddaboudit, 9 heafty pounds of chain that I put around my frame and rear wheel plus a thick kryptonite cable lock that holds the frame and front wheel plus a thin cable that threads through my seat post. Been thinking of getting a u-lock to hold the front wheel.

Anyways, I know people say weight's a problem but I take it as more exercise plus it allows me to coast longer with the 15 pounds of extra momentum hehe.

I find a nice thick kryptonite chain or ulock around the back and a beefy cable around the front's good enough for my specialized hardrock. If yours is worth more or the area's worse, I'd invest in a u-lock for the front and rear.

I think the chain I have now is the largest chain kryptonite sells. If anything, the sight of it's a theft deterrant.

I usually just park it in 1 place on weekdays and take it elsewhere on weekends and I'm too cheap to buy another lock, so I just take the lock with me. If weight's an issue, you can always get a large primary lock that you leave locked to the rack where you park and a smaller one you can carry around with you.

I use the Kryptonite locking skewers and a Kryptonite mini u-lock. I feel comfortable leaving it most populated places in the city but still wouldn't leave it out over night.

-s

I set my bike up with solid axles for inner city use. QRs are more of a waste of time on a city bike. For every puncture wheel change, you have to do a few hundred/thousand lockup wheel removals.
Leave your heavy duty hardened steel chain or armoured cable at your lockup, and carry a smaller lock like a Kryptonite.
Stamp your frame with your zip code or whatever, and label it as marked. Register it where you can, there ares ecurity schemes, but there are so many, which ones do the cops check when thet recover a bike???

You seem to plan using at least one chain and one U-lock, which is good because both lock types require the use of a different (bulky) tool to break. As LittleBigMan said, your bike only needs to have better locks than the one next to it. Or you can make it look less attractive, that might work too. All locks can be broken, given the opportunity, tools and time.

I really prefer QRs. I lock both wheels to frame (I don't remove them) and usually park in relatively safe places.

--J

http://jschumacher.typepad.com/photos/abandoned_bikes/wheel.jpg

$100 lock
No common sense

$100 lock
No common sense

They even took the tire! That is a great picture.

I never noticed that the tire is actually gone too!

With a pair of pliers/wire cutter, I could have the hub and rim as well...

I saw a locked bike with the forks removed. Threadless headsets can be taken off with just an Allen key, and bouncy forks can be very stealable.

I saw a locked bike with the forks removed. Threadless headsets can be taken off with just an Allen key, and bouncy forks can be very stealable.Which reminds me of another good tip I've heard for city bikes: fill all of the allen bolt heads with candle wax. A thief can't quickly unbolt your stuff but you can easily dig it out when you need to make adjustments.

With a pair of pliers/wire cutter, I could have the hub and rim as well...

I saw a locked bike with the forks removed. Threadless headsets can be taken off with just an Allen key, and bouncy forks can be very stealable.

That would be an even better picture. Just a rim attached to an expensive lock.

Part of me wants to feel sorry for the guy. You've spent a lot of money on a lock and you obviously really want to protect your bike, but you never really had the brain power to figure out how to use it effectively.

I used to see a lot of bikes at the university where someone used a cable lock by running it through a spoke and nothing more. One snip and it's gone.

Im sorry guys...but if you dont want your good bike stolen...dont leave it around. My cousin got his $$$ bikes stolen before....its the worst feeling....but i just say dont leave your bike around...these days anyone can practically get into anything :( ....or if your very desperate....and you want to get a neibourhood theft...hehe...get an old R/c car.....take the servos out ( controlling motors)...now get an old bike....cut the frame and hold it in place with a cotter pin....rig up the pin to the servo...and when someone tries to ride of with the bike they think there oging to get....use the controller to pull that pin....WOO HOO....that'll teach any thief...works great on steep hills too!!...haha

How about a way to secure the entire bike? Something like this... http://www.pac-safe.com click on explorer series

Try one of these

http://www.kryptonitelock.com/inetisscripts/abtinetis.exe/PublicArticleDetails@public?artid=2735&atf=products_item&pgrp=20

CHEERS.

Mark

The above lock is the best lock on the market. It could not be broken even by professionals using standard trade tools including freezing which no other lock has been able to do-to date. The only thing that did break it was a hydrolic tool similar to the Jaws of Life used in evacuating trapped people in car accidents that most thieves don't carry because of cost and size of the tool, they will just look for an easier lock. Be warned though, this lock is also the heaviest on the market and the most expensive.

I use A kryptonite NY 3000 U lock and kryptonite locking skewers. When I will be leaving the bike after dark i try to use a basic cable lock through the wheels and frames as well.

I see a lot of people who just lock bikes up by the wheel and a lot of locks with wheels laying around. I have seen a few cut/broken cheap Ulocks around.

I use A kryptonite NY 3000 U lock and kryptonite locking skewers. When I will be leaving the bike after dark i try to use a basic cable lock through the wheels and frames as well.

I see a lot of people who just lock bikes up by the wheel and a lot of locks with wheels laying around. I have seen a few cut/broken cheap Ulocks around.

Problem with "basic cable locks" is that they can be defeated in less than 60 seconds by a relatively unskilled person and pros can defeat them in less than 15. So if you have a bike that you are concerned about I would not use a cable unless it was one of those really thick ones that use 12mm thick cable and you combined it with the Krypt NY 3000 U lock, or better yet combine the 3000 U lock with the Krypt NY chain. Or even better, buy a junker bike to commute in and leave the good one at home!!

Problem with "basic cable locks" is that they can be defeated in less than 60 seconds by a relatively unskilled person and pros can defeat them in less than 15. So if you have a bike that you are concerned about I would not use a cable unless it was one of those really thick ones that use 12mm thick cable and you combined it with the Krypt NY 3000 U lock, or better yet combine the 3000 U lock with the Krypt NY chain. Or even better, buy a junker bike to commute in and leave the good one at home!!

The cable is used in addition to the locking skewers and NY lock. My idea is to steal the wheels they will have to cut through the cable and then manage to get the skewers off. To steal the whole bike they will have to cut the NY lock and cut the cable. Either way it will be more time consuming than most thiefs like.

Also, this is for a $350 mountain bike. I wont dare leave the $1000 road bike out with any amount of locks.

I take these (http://www.masterlockbike.com/masterlock.asp?section=bicycle&page=bike_cuffs&drill=streetcuff) with me on my commute.
http://www.masterlockbike.com/images/product/bicycle/bike_cuffs/streetcuff.jpg

In addition I have this (http://www.kryptonitelock.com/inetisscripts/abtinetis.exe/PublicArticleDetails@public?artid=2736&atf=products_item&pgrp=20) back at the house keeping my trail bike in place.
http://www.kryptonitelock.com/articles/2736/730149x2.gif

[QUOTE=Raiyn][color=blue]I take these (http://www.masterlockbike.com/masterlock.asp?section=bicycle&page=bike_cuffs&drill=streetcuff) with me on my commute.
http://www.masterlockbike.com/images/product/bicycle/bike_cuffs/streetcuff.jpg

I have seen these "cuffs" in a bike store but so far have not found any information about attemps to break them to see how tough they are. I have found quite a bit of information on most of the locks on the market and only the Kryptonite NY Chain and the Krypt NY 3000 lock could not be defeated-by the most common available thieft tools-bolt cutters, sawing, picking and freezing. All locks can be defeated using a special hydraulic tool but most thieves don't use this tool because it's bulky, loud and expensive.

Take a look at www.soldsecure.com - they're ratings are what most British insurance companies use.

>>>The above lock is the best lock on the market. It could not be broken even by professionals using standard trade tools including freezing which no other lock has been able to do-to date. <<<<

I hate to tell you folks but the Kryptonite New York CV lock has been compromised long ago. I talk with bike shop owners and they tell me the pros have found a way and no special tools needed. It appears they found a device that will pick a round key which is why the Forgetaboutit returned to a square lock.

Then again, this is New York City which is the bike crime capital of the world. I doupt the crooks are as smart in your neighborhood. My junk toy store bike is outside right NOW and has lived on the streets for the past year. I have the Kryptonite New York Chain an Goran cable on that bike. A cheap Huffy are the best junk bikes to leave outside. Seriously. You would have to be insane to steal my rusted Pacific toy bike.

Dahon makes a good point, any lock can be compromise; the test I saw was done about 2 years ago so it dosen't surprise me that the crooks have figured out a way. The cost of a cheap O bike is as much as some of these locks! So why not commute on the cheap O bike or when you know you have to lock it someplace where you can't keep an eye on; and save your expensive bike for excersize, training and/or racing.

I read Dahon.Steve's comment as to the compromising of the Kryptonite New York lock. I thought it was interesting enough to refer it to Kryptonite for their repsonse. Kryptonite sent me an email today which included the following statement:-

----------------------------------------------------------------------
" ... the NY3000 U-lock had it's cylinder style changed a couple of years ago from the tubular circular opening to a new piksafe(tm) disc-style cylinder, which is the same cylinder that the NY Fahgettabout takes. We recommend the NY series locks to anyone that is in a high-theft area, such as New York.

You can find our more details on the NY Series by going into the Bicycle section of our website: www.kryptonitelock.com

Regards,

Donna
Customer Service
________________
Kryptonite
437 Turnpike St.
Canton, MA 02021
USA
..."
----------------------------------------------------------------------
I have no connection with Kryptonite or the bike trade but I thought that it was better to discover the facts rather than to rely on unsubstantiated gossip on such an important matter.

If you regularly park in the same spot, leave a heavy lock like the Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit and carry a good ulock. Or vice versa...... Some of the stores in my area have a few locks that are left on the bike racks.

http://www.masterlockbike.com/masterlock.asp?section=bicycle&page=bike_chains&drill=streetlinks_4chain




UPDATE!!!! the master lock is about the same pirce.. they said $120 (it is 9" longer than the faggedaboutit)

but i think i will just start a collection. my current area seems pretty safe... i will just get one of these
http://www.kryptonitelock.com/inetisscripts/abtinetis.exe/PublicArticleDetails@public?artid=3033&atf=products_item&pgrp=20 .. then once i have the money.. i will get two more and really just give thieves a hard time.


finally.. how secure should my trek 800 be? it's very old... it was given to me (like a few weeks ago). it looks like it was made in the early 90's.. reminds me very much of my schwin sidewinder 24 from when i was littler. it's a $400.. new.. but this one is OOOOLLLDD... even has white chipped paint.. perhaps i should paint over the trek name?

The problem with using a really good lock or a series of locks is that the thief is not the least bothered by the locks, they'll just steal the components off of it instead!

well.. i am going to run it through my wheels(i'm about to get some smooth wide 100 psi mountain bike tires.. kevlar too!)

but i've decided to get the fagedaboudit.. cus this guy is going to get me one for only $85!!! ($15 savings!!) ... also i will get a krypto chain for my front wheel.. both will be attached to the bike rack. or should i hold off the krypto chain and get locking paniers (or whatever they are called)?

Any bike can be stolen. Now that the Capo sports a sharp-looking CyclArt paint job, the two Peugeots are my transportation beaters; I do not leave any of the other 3 bikes where I would worry about theft, lock-cutting, etc.

By the way, the only bikes I have ever lost to theft were two bargain-basement beaters (a bottom-of-the-line SR and a FreeSpirit boat anchor), but at least I felt no financial or emotional pain when they disappeared.

I got my fahaddaboudit lock for $75 from the LBS, great guys. I wrap it around my seatpost and frame since I take it with me everywhere, doesn't seem that bad, the added weight just means I can coast longer with the extra momemtum. :)

Kryptonite sells locking skewers for your quick releases. It's basically a one way nut. I'm sure if a criminal buys the kit for $70, they'll have the key to open it too, unfortunately.

You can always get a u-lock for the front and a chain for the back. That forces the thieves to use 2 different tools to defeat it.

I live in a ****ty neighborhood and my rusty pacific toy bike with a set of good fenders and a good seat has been sitting outside for the past few months with a cheap $15 u-lock that I put around the frame only and no one's touched it yet.

If you bust up the appearance enough, people usually just let it go, especially if it's got a nice layer of rust on it. Ironically, many thick heavy locks on it would make it look like it's worth a lot more and like someone said, they might just rip the components off or might even just vandalize it.

so i should go with a u lock instead of the krypto chain and lock? (the $25 one).. i'm still getting the faggedaboudit though....

would painting it pink really deter theft? i really am going to do it (even the spokes will be pink!! bright girly pink!!!) my bike is already pretty banged up looking...but it was stolen yesterday (old white trek 800 with chipped paint and such).. i just go it back today.. the campus police found it. they said they probably pulled around just as the person was stealing it. so he probably just ran off. (should i make a thread about that?) i just had a crappy little chain and lock on it... but soon.. i shall have.. EL MONSTER CHAINO!!! :)


oh! and slvoid! what is the name of your bike shop? is it in the dallas area?


how do ya'll think the master lock street links 4' chain compares to the fagedaboudit?

i just recently found out.. there are only 2 bike racks at school.. both are not very easy to see.. but there is one that is a little better thant he other since it's near the front of the school. you can see it.. but it's down a long path... the other place is near the gym (where it was stolen).. and they wont let me put it anywhere else..i think i will at least paint over the trek name. any advice on areas to lock it down?

Lock it next to the nicest looking bike around.

Your going to use a good bike at college? Many will not allow your bike in dorm. So you will have to park it in the rack with all the others. Take a look around the campus at the bike racks. See the bikes they could not rip off? The ones with the missing parts, the wheels bent and the frames wraped around the rack or post it was locked to. I worked on the grounds crew at Umass for a summer and one of my jobs was to clean the bike racks. I removed over 50 bikes that had been striped, beaten and bent. No, don't bring a good bike to school, just go find a beater to ride at school.

ghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!! i hate criminals!! if i ever catch one trying to steal my bike... man!! i'm just going to carry a big chain around with me... and then i'll beat 'em to near death!!! :mad: :p

why is the u lock better than the krypto chain? i'll just use the krypto chain and a faggedaboudit for now.
and no one else rides their bike to school.

new theft story thread to be made.

I live in new york city. Not sure if it's worth it for my lbs to ship you a lock hehe.

Like someone else said, if they don't take your bike, they'll take your parts. Best thing to do is to put a big HUFFY sticker to cover TREK.

If it's really that dangerous where you are, consider just getting an old used bike with a bit of rust on it.

that's what i had.. where do i get a huffy sticker?

and i am going to the salvation army this week to get another. damn f***s didn't even realize that bike was 14 years old! it even had chipped paint all over it!

and the good thing about those cuff locks is that when you catch the bastard stealing your bike, you can handcuff him to a pole while you call the COPS

Sometimes they think *YOU'RE* a cop so they leave the bike alone :)

i'd prefer to beat him with my 10 pound chain. :D and there's a bit of crappiness to the fagedaboudit... i took it apart... i'm going ot ask a mod about how to let this out... i don't want theives to know this weakness.

how can i post pics of the lock without a web cam or any software? can someone here post pics of their own faggedaboudit?

what you do to find the weakness is this. it won't damge the lock... just make sure to keep trak of the parts.

unlock it and take the u bolt out. now take out the two little screws on the underside and take off the casing. be carefull.. the lock will slide apart. there will be two 1/4 inch thick steel tubes. in the middle... tell me what you find... if you have a metal core please contact me via pm. if otherwise please do so as well.

mine said 2002 on the package and hat the art and sold secure gold ratings advertised on it. is this one of the older ones that can be picked easily?