Classic & Vintage - best and easiest source for touch-up paint?

Sorry if this is a naive question, but searching the forum suggests the best, easiest, and most inexpensive method to find touch-up paint is, ahem, nail polish.

Now for a modern carbon fiber frame this might make sense, but I am doubtful that a steel frame would be protected from rust, etc by nail polish....but what do I know? I don't use the stuff on my nails.

Please let me know if this is a good way to go....should I go to the hobby shop or the drugstore to get my touch-up paint?

Doug
1986 Alpine

I'm planning on using Testor's model paint for a couple of touch ups. Automotive touch up pens are an option as well.

I like paint markers that you can get at just about any hobby store. They're about the size of a pen, but you shake them like a spray can. Some of them have very fine tips that are good for detail work. Like nail polish, they come in a wide range of colors. I think paint markers or nail polish would be fine though as far as keeping moisture out.

I was a little suspicious about Testors model paint enamel, too. (I mean, honestly, the stuff I used to paint my model of the USS Forrestal in the 4th grade??) But the Vintage Trek website suggested it—at least for Trek's Dupont Imron paint—so off I rode to the hobby shop. The guy—obviously into terribly intricate, impressive, difficult-to-assemble models in a big way—takes one look at my bike, an '85 "Race Blue" Trek, and says "wait here". He comes back with a small bottle of Testors "French Blue". "That's your color", he says. Looks a little dark to me, so I ask him if maybe I should get a lighter blue to mix 'em. "Nope… that's all you need." Took it home and, sure enough, it was a perfect match. I was impressed.

You would be surprised at how well nail polish of the appropriate colour works. I've used it for years, and some 10 years old touch-ups on my steel road bike are still very well-covered. But if you want more, just match as closely as you can with Testors model paint.

I like clear nail polish because the bike does not look WORSE after I touch up little scratches and nicks. With paint, I always make it look worse, and simply draw attention to the amazing numbers of scratches and nicks on my bikes.

Hobby Lobby, model enamel, less than $2 per bottle.

Thanks for the tips....i will have to find a good hobby shop near me and ride there sometime to see if I can get a good color match (it somehow seems "wrong" to drive for bike-related activities).

Doug

What's important is your color match.
Testors (enamel) or nail polish (lacquer) is immaterial as long as you have a spot on match.

What's important is your color match.
Testors (enamel) or nail polish (lacquer) is immaterial as long as you have a spot on match.

+1 I've had good results with both. Sometimes it's hard to get the exact color, though, and in my experience a slightly lighter touch-up will be less noticeable than one that's darker than the original paint.

As a follow-up query, if one has small rust spots (like a few mm in size) how necessary is it to use a primer before using the touch-up paint?? I was hoping to brush down to shiny metal, add a dab of naval jelly, and then put on the touchup.....is that a good strategy??

Doug

As a follow-up query, if one has small rust spots (like a few mm in size) how necessary is it to use a primer before using the touch-up paint?? I was hoping to brush down to shiny metal, add a dab of naval jelly, and then put on the touchup.....is that a good strategy??

Doug

You must use primer.

You must use primer.

ok thanks...next dumb question, can I use "testors" primer or whatever they have at the hobby shop??

You want an etching primer. Testor's won't likely sell that. A good start would be Rustoleum's rusty metal primer (it's orange). The can is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay more than you need, but if you use a fine point model brush and cover with Testor's lacquer that should be a substantial repair.

Karl

Update: On my ride home from work today, I stopped by a small hobby shop. I luckily found a color that is reasonably close to mine (probably "95%" match - not quite right but good enough for my purposes).

I tried it on a few scratches and non-rusted bare areas of my frame, and it looks ok.

And the good news is that for the 1/4 ounce bottle (testors high gloss enamel), the guy let me have it for $1. I am in cheapskate heaven!!

Now I have to find an inexpensive 1/4 ounce bottle of etching primer and naval jelly for the rust spots....any ideas?

Doug

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Now I have to find an inexpensive 1/4 ounce bottle of etching primer and naval jelly for the rust spots....any ideas?

Doug
Go to an auto body paint supplier and ask if he has a sample of etching primer.

Wal-Mart has a rust remover, cheapo, in a white bottle. It works well with a Q-tip or toothbrush. Follow the directions. And remember all this is so much easier with a frame free of other parts.

If I use nail polish to touch up, I smooth it out and then mask off the section well and shoot some hobby clear acrylic over it, very little.

I've had good luck with Testor's, and also Duplicolor automotive touch-up paint (also at Wal-Mart and lots of other places). Burgundys, silver metallics, black and some whites, in particular. Good applicator makes me look more dextrous than I am.

And sometimes, like A. Winthrop and JunkYardBike have told me, sometimes, you let it ride and ride it.

For anybody that has a white Peugeot, Duplicolor white wheel paint is a close match. It's acrylic enamel, not lacquer like their touch up paints. That means it's more durable. The stays, seat cluster, fork and part of the head tube on my PA10 have been repainted and nobody spots it. I use white rubbing compound after the paint cures for a few days to even out the gloss.



http://inlinethumb06.webshots.com/26437/2174763510068014369S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2174763510068014369XemxYI)

Thanks again for the tips....if I use cheapo or an etching primer, can I skip the naval jelly step???

Why are you hung up on Naval Jelly? Naval Jelly is a chemical rust remover which should be neutralized prior to finishing. If you are able to remove the rust via mechanical means (sandpaper, etc.) the Naval Jelly now has nothing to do. Just curious, not berating. :)

Why are you hung up on Naval Jelly? Naval Jelly is a chemical rust remover which should be neutralized prior to finishing. If you are able to remove the rust via mechanical means (sandpaper, etc.) the Naval Jelly now has nothing to do. Just curious, not berating. :)

Stacey, the reason for the hangup is that I have a rust spot on my down tube (from brake trauma/handlebar turned too far) and several months ago, I sanded it down to bare/shiny metal....and then painted it....and after a few months the rust returned under the paint. Now I did not use primer, just paint....but still I am concerned about the rust recurring, and the suggestion I have heard is to use naval jelly....but I am open to trying with just primer and paint, if you think that would work for my purposes.

Doug

I'm assuming you didn't wipe the area down with spirits before painting either?

I'm not a painter, but I stayed in a Holiday Inn. :) Either way, chemical or mechanical the rust has to come off, the metal cleaned and preferably etched and primed (See self etching primer above) then painted in a low humidity environment with a compressor and paint gun. A quick scuff with sand paper, a dusting and a shot w/ a rattle can just won't do it.