Touring - MTB conversion (yet another)

Hi all !

I am presently planning to start touring next season (and maybe even go to europe for a 1-month ride). After many consideration, and reading some posts I have decided I would simply do a light convertion of my all-purpose mountain bike. What I have is a Specialized Rockhopper 2002.

Here is what I want to do, and some questions:

-Replace the suspension fork for a solid one

Q: Since a suspension is longer than most solid forks, will it have any bad effects on riding position if I use a standard fork (like changing the relative seatpost angle) ? Do I need to get a special "long" fork to compensate ? And if yes, where do I find that ?

-Fit fenders (possibly)

Q: Should I switch the V-brakes for Cantilever, and if so, are the bosses on the frame compatible ?

-Replace knobby tires
Either Maxxis EuroPlus/Hutchinson Globetrotter/Michelin Transworld City/Panaracer High Road 26x1.5Blk/Bontrager Select/Continental Travel Contact or top touring.
-Buy a good quality saddle (probably Selle Italia XO Trans am)

Any input is welcome !

Q: Since a suspension is longer than most solid forks, will it have any bad effects on riding position if I use a standard fork (like changing the relative seatpost angle) ? Do I need to get a special "long" fork to compensate ? And if yes, where do I find that ?


The Surly company advertises "suspension corrected" forks for MTBs. I gather this means that the solid fork is long enough to compensate.

Q: Should I switch the V-brakes for Cantilever, and if so, are the bosses on the frame compatible ?

My road touring bike (Trek 520) comes with V-brakes, so I doubt there is a need to switch.

Most or all new rigid mtb forks currently sold are for the most part, suspension corrected. A rigid fork should adapt nicely to your Rockhopper frame.
If you have V-brakes now, why would you want to switch to cantis? I would keep them. The bosses are compatible, BTW.
Here's my recent mtb tourer project:

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=42592&highlight=kona

George

Switching from suspension to rigid shouldn't cause any fit problems.

Don't switch from V-brakes to cantis. V-brakes are better and easier to adjust. It will also involve a differant brake lever (well from cantis to V brakes it does, I assume going back would also).

There MAY be some rerouting of the front brake cable stop when you switch from suspension to rigid. Since I haven't seen your bike i am not sure.


As to what else:
You may find the gearing lacking on the downhills and flats. i.e. wanting to shift but you're in your highest gear! I assume the largest chainring is about 42 or so? You may want to consider a 48-38-30 combo or something similar. Perhaps go with a smaller cassette on the rear also 26-11T maybe? Depends on whether or not you're a speed demon.

I have to warn you about using flatbars when riding on the road. There is no danger. But, I have found that the flatbars do not give enough hand positions and my hands go numb and my shoulders hurt. You may want to consider a road drop type handlebar. But that will get you into new shifters, brake levers, cable routing, etc. I am just cautioning you of the possibility.

If you like the flat bars and have no trouble. Then go with it.


Depending on road conditions get the thinest slick tire you can get for it. It is possible to buy 1 inch (25mm) tires for a 26 inch wheel. Otherwise I think the next size would be 1.25". Which is good for touring or carrying loads. If you want speed then thinner is faster.

Digger

MTB chainsets are good for touring. You may spin out on the fastest descent, but you will gain on hard ascents. For loaded /camping style, a 24/38/48 kind of thing is OK, but as long are you have the low gears, the exact size is not critical. Dont bother to change this
For the bars, consider a bar extension. Aerobars are probably a better bet than bar ends. Use them to ride comfortably, rather than aerodynamically.

I just finished my MTB conversion last week, and took 'er out for a couple of test rides this past weekend. I built this bike with the intention of using it as an all 'rounder (I also have a Trek 520 for touring), but my info may be helpful to you.

The bike started life as a '97 Trek 930 (the last year they made them with rigid forks). Originally I used it for commuting, but it's also been a mountain bike, a Singlespeed, and a flat bar touring bike. I'd thought about converting it for a couple of years, but never serious about it until lately.

I wanted drop bars, so I bought a threaded steerer converter from Performance, to allow for experimentation with stems. I ended up with a stem with 15 degree rise, and an extension of 100 mm. This with the adjustability of the converter allowed me to bring the handlebars almost even with the seat. I used handlebars that are a little wider than I normally use (44 instead of 42's).The bar cons are Dura Ace (on sale for $39 from Nashbar) set to friction shift. I stuck with the original 7 speed drivetrain and 42-32-22 chainrings, just because I figured it'd work ok for my application. Tried and proven Conti Town and Country 1.9" tires meet the road (I love those tires!). For stoppers, I kept the XT cantis, and matched them to an old set of RX100 levers.

Last Saturday I took it on her maiden voyage. My 60 mile route included 30 miles of pavement, and 30 miles of fair to good dirt road. The conversion worked even better than I expected! It handled the dirt road quite nicely, and on the final 15 mile strech of pavement home, I passed a group out for a road ride at about 25 mph. Believe me, I got a couple of double takes from them as I called out "On yer left" as I passed!

Now I think I have the ultimate bike. I can ride the roads with a more aero position, and have multiple hand positions. When the pavement ends I can keep going, and the tires work well in all but the most technical terrain. If I want to do some backcountry touring, it's no problem now. For the type of riding I want to do, (all terrain rides), it's much better than a mountain bike, and more durable than a road bike.

"If you're only riding the pavement, your only seeing half the scenery!"

Good luck on your conversion!

Karl

Thanks for all the advices !

I currently have 44-32-22 Crankset. On regular flat road I sometimes lack high gears, but I assume that when loaded my average speed is gonna drop a bit... so I should be ok not spinning madly... if not...I'll just go slower :)

As for the Aero bars, I've never tried them. Actually I have never tried bar ends too lol. They're good for climbing I suppose ? I simply have to try next spring.
(its -25 degree here in Montréal now)

For tires I might ride on 1.25 or 1.5. Gotta try both too.

Another bar to consider are trekking bars which give you a bunch of hand positions on an MTB. Nashbar has them on sale for 10 bucks. I bought one and tried it. It is very comfortable for me.
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=92&subcategory=1049&brand=&sku=9756&storetype=&estoreid=

BTW; order the rigid fork with an extra long steerer, you might find you want to sit more upright while touring.

Another bar to consider are trekking bars which give you a bunch of hand positions on an MTB. Nashbar has them on sale for 10 bucks. I bought one and tried it. It is very comfortable for me.
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?category=92&subcategory=1049&brand=&sku=9756&storetype=&estoreid=

BTW; order the rigid fork with an extra long steerer, you might find you want to sit more upright while touring.

Would you happen to have a picture of your setup? I came across this the other day, and was thinking about givnig it a shot. I have gripshift, though.... (yeah, gripshift should not come on an $800 Cannondale.....ugh, that's Huffy material.....)

Thanks!
Jessica

Would you happen to have a picture of your setup? I came across this the other day, and was thinking about givnig it a shot. I have gripshift, though.... (yeah, gripshift should not come on an $800 Cannondale.....ugh, that's Huffy material.....)

Thanks!
Jessica

I'll post a pic tomorrow evening. I would imagine the gripshifts would work.

I'll post a pic tomorrow evening. I would imagine the gripshifts would work.
This is the Nashbar trekking bar, I used pipe insulation wrapped with tressor cloth handlebar tape I sealed the tape with scotch guard.

Would you happen to have a picture of your setup? I came across this the other day, and was thinking about givnig it a shot. I have gripshift, though.... (yeah, gripshift should not come on an $800 Cannondale.....ugh, that's Huffy material.....)

Thanks!
Jessica

Maybe this might help...
http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/journal/page/?pics=small&page_id=8128&mtime=20040126105157

Thanks guys, I really appreciate both of the pictures. I went ahead and ordered the handlebar from Nashbar, and got the email saying it was shipped out this morning. I can't wait to see how it works out (but I'm also not about to ride when it's this cold out, either...)

Velonomad, do you have pics of the whole bike? Are those Deore top mounts? With a Girvin Flexstem? I have to see this!!! By the way, my favorite handlebar wraps are the rubber rim tape or old innertubes cut in half. The tube is more padding, but the rim tape is neater.

Thanks again,
Jessica

Velonomad, do you have pics of the whole bike? Are those Deore top mounts? With a Girvin Flexstem? I have to see this!!!

Thanks again,
Jessica
Here is a link to a description of the bike and the tour I took on it this summer.
http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/journal/page/?pics=small&page_id=8912&mtime=20040117230918
Yep that is a Girvin! I really like the simplicity of the Girvin Flex stem as opposed to the Soft Ride. It absorbs enough of the bumps and potholes to keep the ride comfortable. I also like the price, you can get them on Ebay for less than 20 dollars. As for the thumb shifters I will give them up when they pry them from cold dead ..Uh..Thumb. Click on the photo to see the bike larger. I repainted the bike and made other changes along with the bars recently I'll post some photos in the next day or so

Velonomad,

This is so cool! I've been checking out the handlebars for a while and contemplating (but unfortunately I haven't even had the $15 lately!). What I have in mind for my bike seems similar to what you've done to yours, I've also been looking at vintage top mounts at least at the Deore level, slick tires, probably 1.5", and a rear rack and some kind of bags. I really like military surplus bags, and they're cheap. It's funny, everything I've had in mind for my bike, you seem to already have done, down to the frame bag! Here's what I have to work with, it's a '98 M500 (LX) - obviously completely different bike than yours, LOL. I just got it in December, NOS. I hope to do charity rides with it starting this summer, as well as keep the mountain stuff for trails.

I think with the rigid fork, and (too) light frame, along with the upgrades, it'll be good on the road. Mine's dark green, however.

Anyway, sorry for rambling!