Electric Bikes - HELP! Choosing the right bike for a Crystalyte

I'm looking to buy a new bike to put a 26" Crystalyte back wheel on. Since it seems a "front-suspension" is the only type in my price range, I'll probably have to eventually relace the Crystalyte wheel with strong spokes but that's OK with me. Anyways, the question I have is, would any of these bikes make a good conversion? They're mostly aluminimum which worries me when considering the torque put on the dropouts by the motor. The diamond back's "rear mounting segment" is actually steel(a fairly small segment), but I'm not sure if that's enough.

K2 Zed 1.0 - http://www.k2bikes.com/index.php?bra...&show=Expanded

Diamond Back Response - http://www.diamondback.com/bikes/mtn...l/response-08/

Also, any idea as to how these bikes would handle 4000-7000 mile commutes per year for 3 years in a mostly urban setting?

I'm thinking 28" wheel for a commute.

It's hard to choose a bike from a web site. Ask your LBS.

Aluminum frames are the standard these days. I'd worry about the space the rear wheel fits into. I think it has to be more than 135mm. You can't bend aluminum.

Crystalyte include a lock washer with their rear hub kit. Once you put it together you will see that it's not a serious problem.

Spokes shouldn't be a concern with the Crystalyte. They use 13g spokes, which are heavier gauge than average, the hub flanges are quite thick, and they come in a 36h design, instead of the more common 32h.

I use mine on an Xtracycle without incident.

Try checking your local gear swap, craigslist, or bike co-op. You can often find CrMo mountain bikes for <$300

I'm looking to buy a new bike to put a 26" Crystalyte back wheel on. Since it seems a "front-suspension" is the only type in my price range, I'll probably have to eventually relace the Crystalyte wheel with strong spokes but that's OK with me. Anyways, the question I have is, would any of these bikes make a good conversion? They're mostly aluminimum which worries me when considering the torque put on the dropouts by the motor. The diamond back's "rear mounting segment" is actually steel(a fairly small segment), but I'm not sure if that's enough.

K2 Zed 1.0 - http://www.k2bikes.com/index.php?bra...&show=Expanded

Diamond Back Response - http://www.diamondback.com/bikes/mtn...l/response-08/

Also, any idea as to how these bikes would handle 4000-7000 mile commutes per year for 3 years in a mostly urban setting?

Go with neither. You are putting yourself at risk by having a cheap bike frame, especially with heavy use. I recommend getting a good quality bike from a company such as Trek, Specialized, or GT. I recommend the steel frame by Trek, the 820. Steel is much stronger than aluminum, having much better tensile strength. Have you ever wondered why the Crystalyte guys tell all the people buying the Phoenix not to use an aluminum fork, but a steel one? Also, you must get two torque arms, MUST*

Go with neither. You are putting yourself at risk by having a cheap bike frame, especially with heavy use. I recommend getting a good quality bike from a company such as Trek, Specialized, or GT. I recommend the steel frame by Trek, the 820. Steel is much stronger than aluminum, having much better tensile strength. Have you ever wondered why the Crystalyte guys tell all the people buying the Phoenix not to use an aluminum fork, but a steel one? Also, you must get two torque arms, MUST*

agreed on the torque arms. they are a must. even if you go w/a "weak" or low power setup on a steel or chromoly frame, get them. in fact, I think it's stupid not to get them. You can get a decent pair for 30 bucks. I think OEM's should include them.

I run on an aluminum trek 4300. Yeah, it's tough finding affordable high quality chromo and hi-ten steel bikes. Easy finding crappy ones, but at the same time.. I personally would rather be on a decent quality alum bike WITH TORQUE ARMS, than a low quality or unknown quality steel alloy. Never been on an Trek 820, but i trust the brand. Trek and Giant I'd feel safe one 100%. But yeah, I agree that it's probably the best overall starting platform when considering value ($). I only used a 4300 b/c I already owned one.

oops, btw..

i'm running a trek 4300 with rear mounted crystalyte phoenix 5303 with steel torque arms.
battery is NIMH, 48 volts, 12 Ah.
controller, 48V 40A
Tires: 2 Inch semi slicks up front, 2.125 semi slicks in back


Top speed: Haven't checked since I got my NiMH batts, but when i started, I had Sealed lead acid (SLA) 48V 10Ah,.. and i hit 34.3mph with no pedaling, and 36.7 with pedalling. (my legs were moving like egg beaters and I felt like a moron).

Range: at an average of 15mph, when I pedal along (and i mean, BARELY pedal, only a notch above "faking like i'm pedalling," I once biked 30 miles (on 48V10Ah of SLA). I didnt sense the battery getting weaker at the end either, i just stopped b/c I wanted to go home:)

my suggestion is to look at an Electra Townie ...
http://www.electrabike.com/04/bikes/06bikes/townie/06_twn_03.html
even tho i've been riding since the 50s (yes, older than dirt :o)
"FlatFoot Technology" or "Dutch" bikes seem 2 make sense ...
http://www.electrabike.com/04/bikes/townie/t2.html

there, that's my 2 cents ...