Bicycle Mechanics - Premature Chain Wear on a BRAND NEW bike

I just bought a new Specialized Roubaix and incidentally checked the chain out of habit (mostly curiosity). I had not ridden the bike more than a week and was about to go on the Seattle to Portland ride soon so I checked my chain. I used a ProLink chain gauge and found that the chain is at 100% wear and in need of replacement. Hmmm, why would that be on a BRAND NEW BIKE?

My wife also purchased a new Roubaix last year and she rides less than I do (her commute is about 3 miles while mine is about 9 miles one way). Her bike had less than 1500 miles on it and it too showed 100% wear using the bike shop's ProLink chain gauge (thus my curiosity). We bought both our bikes from two different bike shops (no affiliation either) one in Port Angeles, one in Sequim one year apart. The only thing in common was the brand, Specialized and the make, Roubaix.

I double checked my chain at the local shop where I bought it and they used a different chain gauge but showed the the chain was very near the red part of the gauge wheel, which indicates time to replace the chain. I only have 500+ miles on this bike now and the shop guy says it'll need replacing soon but I could ride it over the weekend.

Sooo, has anyone else ever run into this scenario before? I'm beginning to think there might be a conspiracy going on here but I don't know who to blame. I contacted the Specialized customer service email and they claim their chains are absolutely "standard". Hmmm . . .:notamused:

I'd be very suspicious of either chain checker as many are highly unreliable. I can't imagine anyone wearing out any chain in 500 miles unless you weigh 350 pounds and do nothing but climb hills.

Use a good ruler, preferably a metal one, and measure a nominal 12" (24 pins) of your chain. Measure the lower run which is under slight tension from the rear derailleur's spring.

A new chain should measure nearly exactly 12.0" over 24 pins. A chain that's slightly worn but usable will measure 12-1/16" between the centers of the pins and a worn chain that definitely needs replacement will measure 12-1/8". Some riders who want to protect their cassettes will replace a chain at 12-1/16".

you must ride like a madman.

Thanks for the advice. I'm about 6'-0" and tryin' to stay under 200 lbs. I ride some hills but their not more than 1/2 a mile long and only climb about 100-150 ft. vertical (albeit at about 10% or so). So I don't think that's the issue. However, I'll start lookin' for a good metal ruler that'll do as you suggest. I'll bet I'll still find that it'll be prematurely worn or perhaps "stretched" or "elongated" might be a better term. The point being, a brand new bike should not have to have it's chain replaced w/in a month. I've since asked Specialized to investigate their stock chains they ship for just such a problem as assembly or specification error. We shall see.:popcorn

Have you had any slippage or shifting problems? You mentioned that you checked it out of habit or curiosity. If there's no problem, then there's no problem, right?

The point being, a brand new bike should not have to have it's chain replaced w/in a month. I've since asked Specialized to investigate their stock chains they ship for just such a problem as assembly or specification error.

Don't get too excited until you check those chains with a ruler. I don't have very much faith in chain checkers.

One of my ride buddies is 6'2" and is a big, strong guy. He goes through cheaper chains in no time. Yes, he does tend to mash on the pedals instead of spinning in an easier gear. Oh yeah, we ride a flat, creekside trail. The better way to tell, in a situation like this, is to measure pin distance. bk

I've had 1 similar experience with a new bike that came with a KMC chain rather than Shimano. OE isn't always the best, chains are easier to cheap out on than the labeled components. However, commuting tends to expose the drive train to almost as much sand as some off-road riding. I would change it if it doesn't come up a perfect 12" on the ruler. Far cheaper, and easier, to change a chain than a cassette.

You need to service your chain weekly according to these instructions. http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

I bought a chain checker like this:http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=23208&subcategory_ID=4204

pretty cheap and I trust it.

That prolink checker... make sue you dont push it down onto the chain. That checker looks pretty easy to bend and would make all your chains look like they are stretched.

I have a Park CC-3 chain checker and it agrees quite well with the 12" rule measurements on all of my chains. However, I've heard many stories about how unreliable many chain checkers are. I consider the ruler the final arbiter of chain life.

You need to service your chain weekly according to these instructions. http://sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html

Looks a bit complicated to do weekly...forgive me, but is that procedure a joke?:eek:

Looks a bit complicated to do weekly...forgive me, but is that procedure a joke?:eek:

Scroll down to the bottom to find your answer:


This page created April 1, 2007

The first part is joke. But scroll on down and you'll find a link that leads to an educational article written by Sheldon that explains all about chain construction, maintenance, and wear. There is also a list of shortcuts at the top of this forum that lead to Other bits of Sheldon's vast bicycle (and other) knoweldge. If your going to bike you need to be a acquainted with him. Enjoy!

14 post and the OP still does not realize that the chain checker cannot be trusted and then leaping to conclusions.

Go bikeforums!

Yeah, er . . . I mean no. There hasn't been an issue with slippage. The issue I have--and I've gone to the shop and had the mechanic use his chain gauge to check it already--is that even though there's no slippage, I'll need to replace the chain in a week or risk wearing out my brand new cassette.

10 speed chains tend to wear significantly faster than 9 speed models, but that is still rather early in terms of mileage. Disclaimer: mileage is but one of several measurements regarding chain wear and is far from the determining factor. Nothing wrong with a Park chain checker. If your chain truely is close to 100% then your cassettet is already trashed.

Yeah, er . . . I mean no. There hasn't been an issue with slippage. The issue I have--and I've gone to the shop and had the mechanic use his chain gauge to check it already--is that even though there's no slippage, I'll need to replace the chain in a week or risk wearing out my brand new cassette.
Measure the damn thing. Then worry if you are going to wear out your cassette.

Yeah, I figured as much but, I did get it checked by the shop mechanics chain checker and it was right on the line (between blue and red). So, once I get a good metal 12" ruler, I'll be sure to use it instead. For now, I'm replacing the OE installed Shimano chain post haste. I'm not gonna risk the cassette. I'm just irked that the bike would come brand spankin' new with a nearly worn out chain. I thought maybe it was some new specification for this particular bike. But clearly now, I see that it is a design "feature" to get cyclists to start replacing parts as soon as possible.

I'm just irked that the bike would come brand spankin' new with a nearly worn out chain. I thought maybe it was some new specification for this particular bike. But clearly now, I see that it is a design "feature" to get cyclists to start replacing parts as soon as possible.
It didn't come with a nearly worn out chain, you've been give bad information. Shimano chains are very durable and yours is no exception.

PLEASE measure it properly before you accuse the manufacturer of larceny.

I'd be very suspicious of either chain checker as many are highly unreliable. I can't imagine anyone wearing out any chain in 500 miles unless you weigh 350 pounds and do nothing but climb hills.

Use a good ruler, preferably a metal one, and measure a nominal 12" (24 pins) of your chain. Measure the lower run which is under slight tension from the rear derailleur's spring.

A new chain should measure nearly exactly 12.0" over 24 pins. A chain that's slightly worn but usable will measure 12-1/16" between the centers of the pins and a worn chain that definitely needs replacement will measure 12-1/8". Some riders who want to protect their cassettes will replace a chain at 12-1/16".

I've heard this debate before, and I have a third opinion to offer. Think it through yourself, then take it for what its worth.

In my opinion, you need to check both ways (chain checker and ruler). Why? They measure different things, and therefore may detect different problems.

The "ruler method", by measuring wear that increases chain length, detects wear between the pins and the side plates, but won't tell you anything about the state of the rollers.
The "chain checker" method detects wear between the rollers and the pins, and external wear on the roller. It might pick up on side-plate-to-pin wear, but it won't be as sensitive becasue it measures fewer "side-plate-to-pin" interfaces.


I've seen chains that passed the ruler method, but had floppy rollers, or had rollers that were worn ever-so-slightly concave by the sprockets.

I do 'em both. If it fails either test, I replace it. Chains are cheaper than casettes.

Yeah, I figured as much but, I did get it checked by the shop mechanics chain checker and it was right on the line (between blue and red). So, once I get a good metal 12" ruler, I'll be sure to use it instead. For now, I'm replacing the OE installed Shimano chain post haste. I'm not gonna risk the cassette. I'm just irked that the bike would come brand spankin' new with a nearly worn out chain. I thought maybe it was some new specification for this particular bike. But clearly now, I see that it is a design "feature" to get cyclists to start replacing parts as soon as possible.

You don't seem to acknowledge: the chain might be perfectly fine. You do not know unless you have measured it with a ruler. No reason to be irked. No reason to think Shimano chains are poor quality (they are not). No reason to think you've somehow been hoodwinked. Measure the chain and tell us what you find, please. You could be right, but you don't know.

14 post and the OP still does not realize that the chain checker cannot be trusted and then leaping to conclusions.

Go bikeforums!

I'd like to apply to the operator "sarcasm and brevity beats earnest yammering" fan club. ;)

10 speed? There are some stories of very short chain life with 10 speed systems. LBS owner who I talked to and admits to be a masher says 500 miles is all he is getting.

I get at least 5000 miles out of Record 10-speed chains and D-A 9-speed chains. I'm a 165 pound wimp but I climb some pretty good hills and stand about 25% of the time when climbing.
My wife got 6500 miles out of a 9-speed Ultegra chain.

Already said above, but your chain is fine and the cassette is not at risk. Chains are not made incorrectly, nor are they supplied in worn condition.

I've read before about dubious wear indication by "chain check" tools. A good ruler is the way forward.

Ed

Thanks for all the advice again. I took a metal ruler to the chain and it was just past 12 1/16". The bike shop provided a new chain free of charge. I asked the mechanic to have the old chain packaged up (so I could play with it some and inspect it more) but after a brief conference with the shop owner, he stated that Specialized wanted it shipped to them for the compensation agreement they came to. In any event, I now have (at 587 miles) a brand new chain to go with my brand new bike. I'll be sure to measure via chain gauge AND ruler from now on. So, as mile 1000 lurks on the horizon, I'll be sure to post the wear, tear and stretch I get on the new chain.:thumb:

Already said above, but your chain is fine and the cassette is not at risk. Chains are not made incorrectly, nor are they supplied in worn condition.

I've read before about dubious wear indication by "chain check" tools. A good ruler is the way forward.

Ed

incorrect :o

10 speed? There are some stories of very short chain life with 10 speed systems. LBS owner who I talked to and admits to be a masher says 500 miles is all he is getting.

I would be skeptical of that LBS. Some very big strong guys get 1,000 miles and replace the chain just to save wear on the cassette. I'm 6'0" and push really hard on sprints and climbs and get easily 2,000 miles. I've gone as far as 4000 before