Fifty Plus (50+) - New Continental tires ride betten than Michelins

Thanks to some of your recommendations I ordered a new pair of Continental 4000s tires and they came in this weekend. I had a pair of Michelin Pro2race tires on my bike previously. For the past 3 weeks I have been commuting to work 2 to 3 times a week 29 miles round trip. The route is a combination of good highway with bike lane, country paved road, 1/2 block of sidewalk and .7 mile of hard packed dirt/gravel combination with quite a few pot holes to go around. My bike has 700 X 23 tires on it and no room to go any bigger. I considered 25's but there just isn't much clearance even with the 23's. Today was the first ride with the Continentals and there was a noticeable difference in the ride. It is quite a bit smoother, and yes I have the same pressure in them as I had in the Michelins. I run 110psi front and rear and I weigh 183lbs. I always liked the Michelins and never had a problem with the ride, so I was not even thinking about the ride when I bought the Continentals, I was looking for more mileage. My only complaint is that the all black Continentals don't look as good as the colored Michelins did. The Continentals also have wear indicators which I think is a good safety feature.
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh107/RoMad_02/Bicycles/DSCN3033.jpg

Romad- Went from riding Michelins on my Litespeed Tuscany (older vintage than yours) to Contis on my Guru, and agree on the smoother ride. Also seem to corner a little better. When I wore out the Conti. 4000, went to the 4000 S and like those even more. Will replace the Michelins on the Litespeed when I wear them out with 4000 S tires

How tough were the Contis to mount on the wheels? I've heard some say they're a bear. Others say not so tough. I've got a set of the GP 4000 S tires on deck, waiting for my Vredesteins to wear out.

I think they were a little harder than the Michelins, but not very much at all. I put them on with my hands only and the last little bit was a little hard. I put the back one on first and then on the front one. After I had it mounted I noticed they have directional arrows and naturally the front one was pointing the wrong way. Took it back off, turned it around and it seemed to mount a little easier the second time.

I have the 4000s's. I was able to mount them with just my hands. Had a flat and was able to repeat the hand-mount on the road.

I think they were a little harder than the Michelins, but not very much at all. I put them on with my hands only and the last little bit was a little hard. I put the back one on first and then on the front one. After I had it mounted I noticed they have directional arrows and naturally the front one was pointing the wrong way. Took it back off, turned it around and it seemed to mount a little easier the second time.

Thanks, RoMad. When I mounted my 4000s's I looked for an arrow and didn't see one. I just went out to the garage, and, using a flashlight (just like on CSI) looked again. Sure enough, my front tire is on wrong. I will change it. Cautionare tale #477

I also like Conti 4000S better than The Mich Pro Race 2. But the Pro Race 3 is out. Does anyone have experience with it compared to Conti?

I mounted GP4000 (no s) on my bike recently. I had to use a tire tool to get the last bit over the rim, but have really liked the ride on these Conti tires. I dunno how you guys do this with just your hands, but it wasn't a difficult job at all. I weigh about 170 dressed to go and run 105/95 (r/f) in my tires.

There is a noticeable difference between these tires and the stock Bontragers the Conti's replaced. I won't hesitate to use the GP4000's (maybe even the "s" version) next time although I hear the Vittoria's are pretty nice too.

Thanks, RoMad. When I mounted my 4000s's I looked for an arrow and didn't see one. I just went out to the garage, and, using a flashlight (just like on CSI) looked again. Sure enough, my front tire is on wrong. I will change it. Cautionare tale #477
I guess you could just pop the wheel out of the fork, reverse the QR skewer, replace the wheel in the opposite direction. No?

Oh, and re-position the sensor magnet.

I guess you could just pop the wheel out of the fork, reverse the QR skewer, replace the wheel in the opposite direction. No?

Oh, and re-position the sensor magnet.

That's the kind of idea I would never think of! But I guess it might not work so well on the back tire.:twitchy:

That's the kind of idea I would never think of! But I guess it might not work so well on the back tire.:twitchy:
It would have to be done in front of a mirror.:wtf:

I also like Conti 4000S better than The Mich Pro Race 2. But the Pro Race 3 is out. Does anyone have experience with it compared to Conti?

I went from the ProRace2 to the Conti 4000S this spring. The ride is different, not sure it's any better. There is little if any difference in weight but the Continentals seem to dampen road vibration a little better, as if they were heavier tires. The Michelins seemed to turn in a little better for me, but there isn't much difference in confidence when cornering at speed. The Contis seem to be tougher as well and don't cut quite as easily. I will be going to the ProRace3 when the Contis wear out (I've got about 2100 miles on them and I think I can easily get another 1000 judging by the appearance).

-soma5

Just out of curiousity, are the directional arrows the same for both front and rear? I remember that some motorcycle tires had directional arrows, but they pointed in opposite directions depending on which end you were mounting it on. The reason in that case was that the rear tire was mostly used for your driving forces, whereas the front tire provided most of your braking force. So your traction requirements were in opposite directions for front vs. rear.

But of course a bicycle probably has different considerations.

Just out of curiousity, are the directional arrows the same for both front and rear? I remember that some motorcycle tires had directional arrows, but they pointed in opposite directions depending on which end you were mounting it on. The reason in that case was that the rear tire was mostly used for your driving forces, whereas the front tire provided most of your braking force. So your traction requirements were in opposite directions for front vs. rear.

But of course a bicycle probably has different considerations.

Yes, they are the same. The driving forces on the rear wheel of a motor cycle are considerably more than that which can be obtained from even the strongest rider on a bicycle.


BTW, I love my Continentials and they are currently on four of my road bikes.

Does that mean that the Michelins which don't have arrows pointing in any type direction, can be ridden in forward and reverse?

Before you spend time switching your tires so the arrows point foreward, read Sheldon Brown's article on tires.
The arrow has no practical meaning other that aesthetics. Unless of course you want the practice.
http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html

After 2400 miles I replaced the Bontrager Race Lite's that was on my Trek Pilot with Conti 4000s. In my opinion they ride a lot smoother and corner better. They were not that hard to get on the rim.

I forgot to mention where I got the tires. After quite of bit of looking at different sites the best price was from http://www.probikekit.com/. I got them for $73 including shipping for the pair. The store is in England and I still had them within a week. I guess since there from England I should call them tyres.

Before you spend time switching your tires so the arrows point foreward, read Sheldon Brown's article on tires.
The arrow has no practical meaning other that aesthetics. Unless of course you want the practice.
http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html

If you're south of the equator, which way do the arrows point? :innocent:

I'll echo many above. My Conti GP4000's are 25's. I weigh 165 and ride them at 90/95 on often rough/ chip&seal roads no problem. They've worn well, seem very flat resistant, and have a sweetly resilient ride. Easy to mount on my OpenPro's with my aging thumbs. I have a yellow pair and a blue pair....and will most certainly replace with more of the same.

I have some Armadillos on my Reno and Conti Sport Contacts on my OCR.
I love the Contis... good ride, nice grip, pretty darned flat resistant.
A little hard to get that last inch or two on with those as well but certainly not worse than the Armadillos.
I'd love to try out a set of 4000Ses.
Wonder what their flat resitance is vis the Contacts?

I just installed the Pro Race 3's last week, don't have many miles on them yet but so far they seem to ride smooth, corner great, and have very low rolling resistance. I almost purchased the 4000's but after reading so many reviews about how hard they were to install I passed. I'll most likely try a pair of 4000's to find out for myself.. I'll knock on wood for the time being as I have also read that the Pro Race 3 are prone to flats, time will tell...

I've used the Conti 4000's and agree that they're a bit tougher to mount than the Michelins, but still not horrible and well worth the bit of extra effort it takes.

Rick / OCRR

I only use PR2's and they are difficult to mount on all my rims but that is my fault and I suppose my Choice.

The rim tape I use is the problem. Velox Rim tape. Thick canvas type. This takes up the well in the rim so I cannot get the bead very far into the well to assist in getting the tyre Lever under the bead very easily. The Mavic Aksiums are the easiest to get off- the Ultrgras are very difficult and the mavic CXP33 rims are a two tyre lever job to get the tyre off.

OP: >> I considered 25's but there just isn't much clearance even with the 23's. <<

If you wish to run larger size, merely mount the wheel before pumping up the tire. This way I am able to run Mich 28's which actually measure 29.2 inflated. At present am running Conti U Gator 28's (measuring 26.8) which are rated at 90 to 116 psi. I prefer the larger tires since they are actually faster at the speeds I generate, less the 20mph. There is less rolling resistance (bouncing) and increased wind induced drag does not become a factor until the low 20's.