Road Cycling - opinions on Al compact Frames..

I am planning to get one of those Aluminum road frames..

Yes, I'm the type of guy who loves to ride steel and likes those traditional geometries, but what the heck, I would like to try out those fast compact, Aluminum frames.

I have ridden bikes with compact Al frames but I never wanted to own one, until now. Since this would be my first compact frame, I have to be sure.. Money is tight!

I saw a ScottUSA Expert road frame sold for only $150~180 US. It is a 2003 model so that's why its cheap, says the LBS.

The frame size is just my size (well, i know my size), so does anyone of you have experience with these scott bikes?

I know a guy who has a scott Al frame, but it was too big for me to try on.

If this is any good, I'm planning to build it up w/ I guess a 105 gruppo... The frame set includes a frame, scott AL fork, cane creek headset(integrated), a scott seatpost. I figure the headset would cost about $50 bucks on its own right?

So, for you guys with compact frames.. How well does it ride as compared to those frames with traditional geometries? Comfort? efficiency?

thanks.

The compact frames are what's "hot" right now, since all the manufacturers are converting there line to the compact style frame.

I for one, still prefer the standard traditional geometry.

Fast, relatively light, and stiff. Compact should actually provide a little more comfort than a normal geometry Al bike if you put a carbon post in. Don't know how cheap you need to be but check out www.fetishcycles.com they have a carbon/Al frame with all carbon fork for $250 (not a compact though)

I am planning to get one of those Aluminum road frames..
Yes, I'm the type of guy who loves to ride steel and likes those classic geometries, but what the heck, I would like to try out those fast compact, Aluminum frames.

So let me get this straight. You like steel and 'classic' geometry ( whatever that means ), yet you want to try out a 'fast compact'?

Man, I think you've been absorbing too much marketing bull**** there.

I have a simple question for you.

'Why?'

I'm not sure that I would be able to tell the difference between a compact and traditional geometry bike. I could, however, tell the difference between steel and aluminum.

Its funny, though, when I got my bike (a steel lemond) I was like, "frame flex? I don't feel and flex". I went to a trek 2000, and it was a little bit more jarring, and it climbed a bit better, but I think it was just due to the fact that it was lighter by about a pound. but now, with my carbon shoes and spd-sl pedals, I CAN feel flex in my bike...I suppose that means I need a new frame, right? hehe.

Just got my first compact frame bike. When I first started shopping, I thought I had to have the traditional frame, and it took a while to accept the looks. But riding it, honestly don't notice the compact frame geometry at all.

I wanted something less flexy my Raleigh RT 600 (531 steel). The AL/carbon bike compact frame bike is 4 lbs lighter (18 vs 22 lbs), and definitely stiffer and more responsive for climbing.

Believe it even makes me a little faster on long hilly rides....or maybe it's just the new bike syndrome at work!

So let me get this straight. You like steel and 'classic' geometry ( whatever that means ), yet you want to try out a 'fast compact'?

Man, I think you've been absorbing too much marketing bull**** there.

I have a simple question for you.

'Why?'

I just want to try out the compacts and feel how it rides.. If ever I don't like it, I could always sell it, right? :D

Maybe it will ride better, or maybe not.. Or perhaps I won't be able to tell the difference.

Lets just say, im "trying new things"

Well, instead of buying one, go test ride one perhaps? "Trying new things" is an admirable aproach, but the way bike stuff devalues, buying a new frame just to 'try new things' isn't perhaps the smartest way to go. Wouldn't you agree?

A sloping top tube will pretty much soften the ride somewhat, although as I always say, probably the equivalent of putting 5psi less in your tire. I like about a 6 degree slope on my road frames because 1) I come from an mtb background and like the look 2) More seatpost means more seatpost flex which = improved comfort 3) The design is slightly lighter 4) A lot of companies that have a level top tube end up looking like a slope down because of tire choice, the wrong axle to crown measurement etc. - it looks hella ugly.

I guess we can thank Giant for the idea in it's modern incarnation, although they only did it so they could narrow their size range to only 4 or 5 sizes ( improved standover ). Hardly an advancement in fit and quality.

I think everyone would agree - Try before you buy ( if you can )

Well, instead of buying one, go test ride one perhaps? "Trying new things" is an admirable aproach, but the way bike stuff devalues, buying a new frame just to 'try new things' isn't perhaps the smartest way to go. Wouldn't you agree?

A sloping top tube will pretty much soften the ride somewhat, although as I always say, probably the equivalent of putting 5psi less in your tire. I like about a 6 degree slope on my road frames because 1) I come from an mtb background and like the look 2) More seatpost means more seatpost flex which = improved comfort 3) The design is slightly lighter 4) A lot of companies that have a level top tube end up looking like a slope down because of tire choice, the wrong axle to crown measurement etc. - it looks hella ugly.

I guess we can thank Giant for the idea in it's modern incarnation, although they only did it so they could narrow their size range to only 4 or 5 sizes ( improved standover ). Hardly an advancement in fit and quality.

I think everyone would agree - Try before you buy ( if you can )

Yes I would, but no LBS would allow me to ride a brand new bike for say 50miles just to test ride it. And riding around the block doesn't make any sense, how could I possibly compare two bikes w/o really riding them, don't you agree?

I ride a size 49 ~51cm.. These frame size(s) are a bit rare, so there are not much to choose from.. In that regard, it would be hard to dispose(sell) after all.. :D

I'm not going to buy a whole bike.. Just a frame set and I'll just transfer my components from one of my steel bikes and see if I really like it.. And if it is any good, then I'll build it up, I think that would be a more practical approach, right?

But I really wanted to know your(bikeforum memebers) expert opinion before I go on with this crazy idea.

Judging from what you wrote, "more seatpost flex = improved comfort", I think it is not so bad after all..

Just in case you ask why I'm doing this, besides the "trying new things" thing I said.. I am in the point where I'm telling myself to get a new bike, this is reason enough to get a new one. ;) you know what i'm talking about...
I am literally itching to get a new one.. :)


Just got my first compact frame bike. When I first started shopping, I thought I had to have the traditional frame, and it took a while to accept the looks. But riding it, honestly don't notice the compact frame geometry at all.

I wanted something less flexy my Raleigh RT 600 (531 steel). The AL/carbon bike compact frame bike is 4 lbs lighter (18 vs 22 lbs), and definitely stiffer and more responsive for climbing.

Thanks.. I'm happy your satisfied with your purchase..
more responsive for climbing? that's what I need!!! Thanks!

dex

49-51cm ROAD frame? Holy crapola Batman....my MOUNTAINBIKE frame is larger than that!

Lets forget the 'compact' question - have you considered 650c wheels? :)

49-51cm ROAD frame? Holy crapola Batman....my MOUNTAINBIKE frame is larger than that!

Lets forget the 'compact' question - have you considered 650c wheels? :)


:roflmao: :D :D :D .

650c wheels? no way! :D .. All my roadies are 700Cs.

BTW, all my frames are custom built CrMo.. You don't have to worry about my 76cm standover height requirment. ;)

besides, a 49cm isn't so bad.. here's a pic of my roadie.

Dexmax: I also ride your frame size
I switched from a 2000 specialized allez comp (traditional) to a 2003 specialized allez pro (same frame as the '03 comp). The frames are like night and day.

First of all... the bike had to be at least 2 pounds lighter. Second, the bike is SOOOO stiff... it really feels like i am significantly faster going up hills... probably both from reduced BB flex and the lighter weight. Third, the frame is actually much more comfortable than my old bike.... (Columbus E5 SLX tubing vs Specialized's A1 aluminum) - the frame is extremely smooth. If the frame is quality aluminum, and you have a good fork (i have an all carbon), i would go for it

Yes I would, but no LBS would allow me to ride a brand new bike for say 50miles just to test ride it. And riding around the block doesn't make any sense, how could I possibly compare two bikes w/o really riding them, don't you agree?

The LBS I bought my Airborne Zeppelin from allowed me to test ride one for a whole day, and when I ordered through them and the wrong size frame was delivered they let me have an Airborne Manhatten Project until my bike was ready. I also know a guy who bought a C-40 from a different store and they sent him out on a 25-mile loop so that he could really try the bike.
It's true some stores only let you ride around the parking lot, but ask them if a longer ride is possible. Some might require a credit card deposit but others may be trusting enough if you leave your car keys and drivers license with them.

nhorscro: you neglected the fact that he is shopping for a frameset, not a whole bike. test riding a frame would involve building up the bike, then stripping it back down if you decide you don't want it.

If I was making you a bike, I'd shorten your top tube, lengthen your stem, kick out the head angle, use the correct rake fork so it doesnt slow your steering down ( Improve your front-center numbers) and seriously consider 650c tires. 700c's will work with what I've suggested, but I'm not sure where you'd find a compact frame with those numbers. Also, you need some new handlebars - the drop on those are too much for your size. Maybe try some Deda 215 Shallows?

In your size someone could make you a super sweet 3lb sloping top tubed steel frame no problem. That's what I'd be doing :) But I'm biased.

[QUOTE=dexmax]:roflmao: :D :D :D .

650c wheels? no way! :D .. All my roadies are 700Cs.

BTW, all my frames are custom built CrMo.. You don't have to worry about my 76cm standover height requirment. ;)

76 cm :p ! Can't you just move your junk to the side?!

deliriou5: That is true, but my friend buying the C-40 was also just buying a frame. But I guess it is unlikely his LBS would have a built up ScottUSA Expert, especially since it's being sold cheaply, so point taken.

I ride a semi-sloping Al frame and it is way better than my previous frame which was made of Tange (dunno which kind) steel tubing. The Al frame has a different geometry from my steel frame though, so I cannot say that I can compare the two on the basis of material alone. However, I can say that when accelerating (in crits, for example) I can feel my Al frame to be stiffer than the steel frame which sorta feels flexy (just a tad) as compared to my Al frame.

I agree with the 650c bit. I ride a 50cm ST / 52 cm TT bikes. The one below has 650c wheels and it's probably one of the best riding bikes I've thrown a leg over!

http://members.shaw.ca/nemod/dean.jpg

Dexmax: I also ride your frame size
I switched from a 2000 specialized allez comp (traditional) to a 2003 specialized allez pro (same frame as the '03 comp). The frames are like night and day.

First of all... the bike had to be at least 2 pounds lighter. Second, the bike is SOOOO stiff... it really feels like i am significantly faster going up hills... probably both from reduced BB flex and the lighter weight. Third, the frame is actually much more comfortable than my old bike.... (Columbus E5 SLX tubing vs Specialized's A1 aluminum) - the frame is extremely smooth. If the frame is quality aluminum, and you have a good fork (i have an all carbon), i would go for it

Nice to hear -- i'm not alone.. just kidding :D

yes, i'm planning to put on an all carbon fork too(I have a spare).. I have seen and felt its advantages. :)

So far, everyone has some good experiences with compacts.... so I guess I will be getting my first compact frame..



If I was making you a bike, I'd shorten your top tube, lengthen your stem, kick out the head angle, use the correct rake fork so it doesnt slow your steering down ( Improve your front-center numbers) and seriously consider 650c tires. 700c's will work with what I've suggested, but I'm not sure where you'd find a compact frame with those numbers. Also, you need some new handlebars - the drop on those are too much for your size. Maybe try some Deda 215 Shallows?
I'm listing all these down! thanks... true, about the handlebars, the drops are about extreme, but still does work for me..


In your size someone could make you a super sweet 3lb sloping top tubed steel frame no problem. That's what I'd be doing :) But I'm biased.
My current frame has a little slope on the TT. Built it myself..
Had to have a little slope so I can make the HT a little longer.. But the frame has a traditional geometry, not a compact.

:roflmao: :D :D :D .

650c wheels? no way! :D .. All my roadies are 700Cs.

BTW, all my frames are custom built CrMo.. You don't have to worry about my 76cm standover height requirment. ;)

76 cm :p ! Can't you just move your junk to the side?!

I would but....
:D :D :D