Bicycle Mechanics - DT Swiss prolock, competition and glue

Hi!

Somewhere I read that the pro-lock nipples shouldn´t be used in combination with revolution spokes.
The reason was not specified but I guess that the this spokes would twist too much.
Has anyone experience?

Related question:

As I´ve seen there are special glues which could be used to fix the nipples (Loctite 222 and one by DT Swiss I don´t remenber)
Can this product be used after having centered the wheel? How?

Many thanks in advance!

Related question -

LOCKTITE WICKING sealant.

Regards,
J T

Related question -

LOCKTITE WICKING sealant.

Regards,
J T
Loctite makes a wide range of threadlockers for various applications. Grade 222 (Purple) is the weakest and Grade 242 (Blue) is next. Both can be disassembled with ordinary hand tools but are still a bit strong for spoke use. The stronger grades, require heat for removal.

Most of the wicking (Green) grades are very strong and will glue your spokes permanantly in place unless you use a torch or heat gun to release them You don't want to do that.

There is one exception. Loctite makes a very weak wicking sealent sold by DT as "Spoke Freeze" that is specifically recommended for bicycle spokes and allows wheel truing with no damage to the spokes or nipples.

I used Spoke Freeze when I built my last MTB wheelset (DT Revolution spokes) and so far those babies have been bombproof. To further increase the chances that they'll break on my next ride I'll go on to say that I haven't had to true them up since I built them.

Mike

I used Spoke Freeze when I built my last MTB wheelset (DT Revolution spokes) and so far those babies have been bombproof. To further increase the chances that they'll break on my next ride I'll go on to say that I haven't had to true them up since I built them.

Mike

Thanks for the hints.
I think I´ll go for the DT Swiss if only I find it - otherwise will try carefully with the 222.
What I really need to know is concretely, practically, where/how/how much pour the stuff.
Should I do it from hub side at the beginning of the nipple? Is the glue able to find its way along the thread?

Thanks again!

If you use the wicking "Spoke Freeze", add a very small drop to the hub-side of each spoke where it enters the nipple after the wheel is built, trued and tensioned. You need very little at each spoke junction.

For 222, you place a small amount on the spoke threads before you thread on the nipples as it is not intended to wick into the joint. Since the "set-up" time is fairly short, you need to work fast to build, true and tension the wheel. That's why "Spoke Freeze" is recommended as there is no limit on build time.

Your LBS should be able to order Spoke Freeze for you. You will probably want to have them get you some spoke prep as well. Apply the spoke prep to the threads and let it dry before you lace the wheel. Spoke prep will keep your nipples from seizing as you apply more tension to them. Once you've got the wheel properly tensioned put a drop of Spoke Freeze at the top of each nipple and give the wheel a good spin to draw it down the threads. Wipe off any excess and you're done.

Mike

Thanks for all suggestions!