Commuting - Converting MTB

I recent got ahold of an old Nishiki Backroads bike. (chromoly frame and fork, 1" headtube) Im going to make adjustments to make it better for commuting. I shifts fine, but could use new cables and im allready getting a new bar/stem/headset. I would also like some better brakes(it has some beat up canti's on it now). Should i spend money on 700 wheels instead of the 26's it has. Or get a diff crankset. RIght now the crnaks are no name with plastic pedals. I'll be buying used stuff of ebay prob and after the stuff i listed i have about $85-100 of my bike budget left. Thanks for any help.

I recent got ahold of an old Nishiki Backroads bike. (chromoly frame and fork, 1" headtube) Im going to make adjustments to make it better for commuting. I shifts fine, but could use new cables and im allready getting a new bar/stem/headset. I would also like some better brakes(it has some beat up canti's on it now). Should i spend money on 700 wheels instead of the 26's it has. Or get a diff crankset. RIght now the crnaks are no name with plastic pedals. I'll be buying used stuff of ebay prob and after the stuff i listed i have about $85-100 of my bike budget left. Thanks for any help.


I did the same thing to one of my bikes last spring while my primary off-road bike was being painted/rebuilt. It was a Western Auto hybrid/mtb... I rebuilt it using e-bay parts and leftover stuff. I loved the bike, but once my other bike was on go, I tore it apart and still haven't finished it. I wanted to finish it before this spring so I could commute to work, but I'm changing jobs so that may be out of the question.

I don't know how far your commute is, but if it's shorter than 10 miles, I wouln't change the wheels. The 26" wheels are typically fatter and more resistant, but the wider width along with some good tires will be more comfortable and will handle better in the wet stuff.

If the cranks spin freely, don't sweat it...yet. Just keep an eye on your components. When converting older bikes like you and I have done, the biggest obstacle I run into is good derailleurs. So far, I've got a good collection off e-bay...

Good luck

My trip is about 12 miles or so each way. I was actually just thinking if i left the wheels and cranks that i could get new derailuers and shifters.

You'll be dealing with brake issues by outfitting your Mtb frame and fork with 700c wheels.... so don't bother.

Was that on eBay just about a week ago? If so, that was a nice bike, good for the money......

Nah its my lazy roomates bike he sold me for 60 bucks.

I recent got ahold of an old Nishiki Backroads bike. (chromoly frame and fork, 1" headtube) Im going to make adjustments to make it better for commuting. I shifts fine, but could use new cables and im allready getting a new bar/stem/headset. I would also like some better brakes(it has some beat up canti's on it now). Should i spend money on 700 wheels instead of the 26's it has. Or get a diff crankset. RIght now the crnaks are no name with plastic pedals. I'll be buying used stuff of ebay prob and after the stuff i listed i have about $85-100 of my bike budget left. Thanks for any help.


My MTB commuter is also a 4130 frame, 1" headtube, and it began with plastic pedals. I put clipless pedals, and 95 PSI slicks on it, and it works great as a commuter. I also commute on my 700cm road bike, and I have seen no disadvantages to the 26" wheels on my commute. The only problem I run into is that the gearing on my mountain bike is a little low for the road.

You could get a real nice set of linear brakes (and levers) for $100.

New cranks might help too, but it sounds like a new set of pedals would do a world of good, and it is a little cheaper upgrade than a crank.

Hope this helps.

Along with what The Fixer mentioned, 700s might not even clear the stays/fork on a bike designed for 26". And, as was stated, if you put slicks or "comfort bike" tires on, you'll get pretty low rolling resistance. I've seen V-brakes on eBay for pretty cheap, well under the $100 mentioned. I've even seen a little pulley you can get, that goes inline with the cable, right after the lever, that allows you to use your existing levers with V-brakes. Darned if I can remember the name, tho'. 'Course, if the levers don't cost any more than this gizmo, what's the point?

Don't mess with the crankset, if the BB is good. Some better pedals, maybe, or go clipless. Get your mitts on some larger chainrings and smaller cogs, and gear it like a hybrid/commuter. (MTBs chainrings, for example, are in the 26/36/44 range, whereas hybrids are typically 28/38/48.) That'll buy you some commuting speed w/o the fit issues you'd have with messing with wheel size.

Ooh, if that's a cheapo crankset, the chainrings may be riveted on. This might be the incentive to change out the cranks; look for one for a hybrid, with the chainrings included. Again, eBay is awash in such goodies.

Good luck; franken-bikes are fun.

Im probably gonna go single speed. I rode this bike around and i was shifting all the time. Up until 2 months ago-I got around on a bmx flatland bike with 36-16 gearing and no brakes. I looked like a gorilla on a tricycle. So If I could do it on that, I can do it on this.

I would keep the gears for commuting and all around use. Get in the big ring and crank. You’ll get places quick. If you don’t want to shift get in a good gear and leave it there. If you’re smoked put it in an easy gear and spin. This way you have it all. Of course if your derailleur is crap and you don’t want to get another one a SS sounds good. I converted an all ridged MTN bike to a commuter buy putting a riser bar on for comfort and putting slicks on it. The slicks make a BIG difference. I put on all the appropriate reflectors and a headlight and taillight.

Good luck,
CD

Non knobby tires would be the best investment. I'd leave everything else as is unless it was broken. Even the cantis may just need adjustment, comparable with Vbrakes when well adjusted. While the typical overall mtb gearing is lower than a road bike, it's almost certainly ok for commuting. I'd postpone the single speed upgrade (downgrade?) for until the derailer breaks.

Of course, if you want to tinker around, don't let me stop you. ;)

I agree, file the pads on the brakes to see if that improves them. Clean out the cable sleeves if they are old and possibly loosen them up inside with WD40. How about looking for an old but decent quality race bike chain set and trying that? I have a 52-39 on my MTB. It really flys!

Thanks for all the help. I put some slicks on and it makes a big diff. New bars and stem and brakes are in the mail(ebay total $37). Now all I want to do is paint it Chevy red. Im still debating on the single speed. Shifting makes me lazy.