Road Cycling - 105 Double vs. Ultegra Triple for Racing?

Looking for some advice and to generate discussion...

A year ago, I replaced my stock 105 double drive train with an Ultegra triple drive train. Subsequently, I also replaced the 105 STI shifters with Ultegra shifters (as a crash replacement...the Ultegra were cheaper!!).

Now, I am about to start my first season racing as a Cat 5. So, with only 1 bike, I'm trying to decide whether to keep the Ultegra triple drive train, or go back to the 105.

In either case, I would keep the same cog set and also retain the Ultegra shifters.

What do y'all think?

You can keep your triple crank- pull off the granny ring, get 53/39 chainrings (if you don't have them) and you're ready to go. Or keep the granny ring on-doesn't matter really since you will never use it for racing.

I've raced 105 triple and Ultegra double...I'd say stick with your Ultegra triple or the overall better quality of shifiting under pressure. Like RacerX said, it doesn't matter if you take the granny off or leave it on....unless you are really counting grams. What type of races are you doing? For crits all you really need is the 52 or 53.

I have a triple --- Campy Racing-T --- on my Serotta. Before a race I will set the adjusting screw on the front derailleur to prevent shifting onto the inner chainring. Just a precaution so I don't accidently over-shift in the heat of the moment.

I found this in the current RoadBikeRider.com newsletter. it might be useful if you want to do the full conversion.


Dear Jim: I'm wondering if there's a way to cheaply convert
an Ultegra triple crankset to a double, because I never use
the small chainring. The bike is a LeMond Arrivee. A triple
was all they had in stock when I bought it. -- Craig J.

Jim Langley Replies: Sure, Craig, it isn't too hard or
expensive, especially if you have the tools and know-how to
do the work yourself.

Your left STI brake/shift lever is designed to work with
triple or double chainrings. That's the key to this being an
affordable conversion.

To do it, remove the 30-tooth granny ring, leaving you with
the 42 and 52. Replace your triple bottom bracket with the
narrower Ultegra double model, part No.BB6500 (118.5 mm
vs.109.5 mm). Then readjust your front derailleur to shift
correctly with your new chain line.

You'll only be out the cost of the bottom bracket (plus
labor if the shop does the work). And if you save the old
parts, you'll be able to switch your LeMond back to a triple
should you decide to go touring or move where it's hillier.

nhorscro,

I saw that article too (I look forward to my RBR newsletter every Thursday!). It couldn't have been more timely.

As a side note: To all reading this who have never heard of RoadBikeRider.com, visit their web site and sign up for their newsletter (it's FREE!) It consistenly delivers some of the best advice about road cycling out there...

http://www.roadbikerider.com/

I don't think it really matters which one you use. The only thing I may worry about (may be a needless worry but I've never ridden with a triple so I don't know) would be over shifting the middle ring and dropping the chain. I don't really know how touchy a triple is so that would be my main concern.

I found this in the current RoadBikeRider.com newsletter. it might be useful if you want to do the full conversion.

After doing that conversion could you switch to a short cage rear derailer so it shifts quicker as well? Would there be any drawbacks to the whole conversion process? If not, it seems the smart thing to do when building a new bike would be buy 2 bottom brackets, and a triple and switch them out if you ever end up needing the granny gear.

I say just leave the triple on the bike. Go to the races and put the hurtin' on those boys who think real men don't use triples. If you you ever do a mountainous road race with a few major climbs as a Cat 5, you'll be lovin' that triple. I've seen many a fool suffer needlessly on long, steep climbs becuase there ego wouln't let them ride a triple. I don't understand why the vast majority of ameteur racers think they should be able to push professional gear ratios. Good luck at the races either way.

I don't think it really matters which one you use. The only thing I may worry about (may be a needless worry but I've never ridden with a triple so I don't know) would be over shifting the middle ring and dropping the chain. I don't really know how touchy a triple is so that would be my main concern.

I think that's a valid concern for crits or road racing. I've done that several times now with my new DA triple, and it's a surprise going from the 53 to the 30. First time I did it, I jammed the chain since I wasn't expecting the cadence to go from 75 to 140....in a heartbeat. The way I've messed it up is to only go one click on the lever the first time, instead of two (first click is the trim position). When nothing happens, I then push the lever all the way (both clicks) and end up in the small ring rather than the middle.

I think it just takes practice to learn to do it right, but could be a disaster if you ever made this mistake in a crit pack. If you don't need the inner ring for your racing, I think I'd just adjust the FD to block it off. You never know when you might want the inner ring back for a mountain training week, long touring ride, or even a long road race with a steep climb near the finish when your legs have gone.