Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Help me pick a bike – please???

Hello,
I just joined this forum because I have decided to try road biking as a way of commuting to work and staying in shape for my occasional mountain bike ride. I have been a mtb rider for a while and have learned that buying something right the first time can save a lot of money down the road.
Here’s my situation:
I have about a $1,000 budget that I want to spend on a quality road bike that I can use for mostly commuting along city streets and paved river trails in Sacramento, CA. I also want to make sure that if I fall in love with this type of riding, that the bike will be all-around enough to entertain other aspects of road riding. I’d like the ability to put a rack on the back so that I don’t have to wear a backpack every day. I’d also like the ability to run slightly larger than average road tires, as I’ve read here that it’ll make the ride more comfy for me. Oh yeah – I’m 6’5” and 230lbs.

I have a great relationship with my LBS and they mostly carry Giant’s, but they are also a Surly dealer. I’ve read that some bigger folks like using cyclocross bikes for the tire clearance, frame strength, and comfy positioning. I’ve also read a lot of great stuff on the Surly LHT and what a great all-around bike it is. My LBS has the 08 Giant TCX 0 in stock in an XL, or for about the same price can order me the Surly LHT.

What do you all think about these two bikes in my application? I know that I should ask my LBS, and I have, but I have a feeling they’ll be more inclined to sell their in stock 08 Giant rather than order me the new Surly.

I’m open to suggestions on other bikes too, but I’m mostly partial to these so that I can still support my favorite LBS.

Thanks,
Don

I'm not familiar with the Giant, however there are many happy LHT owners in this forum, myself included.

Looking at the TCX 0 on the Giant website, it does not specify whether or not it has the braze ons for a rack, but I did notice it has 24/20 spoke count wheels. I'm no expert on wheels, but unless you are racing and trying to shave grams, you might be better off with a beefier wheel (the LHT comes with a nice 36 spoke wheelset, FYI). The LHT also has a much wider gear range, so again if you are not racing (or if you are), you might appreciate that for climbing.

Finally, the long haul trucker is a great touring bike, and if you think you might be interested in camping by bike, it would be the obvious choice. You guys have a lot of great touring oppertunities out there on the west coast.

Surly Long Haul Trucker

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Cyclocross bikes are very versatile, and if you are already an MTB fan they might have even more appeal to you. Most come with braze ons for racks and fenders as well, which make them great commuters. The tire width allows for a more smooth ride, and with a set of slicks make it basically a road bike.

I spent most of the spring shopping for a cross bike but in the end never pulled the trigger, mostly to a growing vintage addiction. I found several models that I really liked.

You will find many fans of the LHT here. I have to be up front in that I have not ridden one, since I already have a tourer, I doubt one is in my future. That being said, I have immense respect for the opinions and experiences here with the brand and have no reservations about the brand. I have recommended to a couple of friends to check out the LHT who asked about touring bikes. Surly also makes the Cross Check, which is about the same price I think.

I understand loyalty to the LBS, finding a good one is hard to do. You did mention that making a good decision early on can save money, and I might grief, down the road. There are a lot of choices out there, and it might be worth while to check other shops who carry different brands. Close outs are starting to show up and the savings can be significant, especially when you consider the price increases from all the manufacturers for the 09 models. I know the cross bike of choice for me lists at $999 and an 08 model is currently available for $749 in my area. Very tempting.

:commute:http://www.surlybikes.com/frames/images/lht_complete.jpg

A touring bike makes a lot of sense. I'm 6'2" 250 and I am riding a mint 1984 Raleigh Portage 650B touring bike with 40 spokes and 32mm Nifty Swifty tires and Brooks Flyer saddle. Just started riding this summer, and the low gearing was a huge blessing at the beginning. I'm also building up another vintage bike, a 1985 Trek 460 which has 36 spoke wheels. I'm a big fan of vintage steel framed bikes, and I think they work well for big riders.

I own a TCX 1. All alum. I'm very anti-carbon fiber. When it fails, it fails catastrophically and its going to be very ugly if your cruising at speed. If you read around you'll see it also fails regardless of weight. I like the TCX 1 but for my weight 300, the wheels were not a good fit. I upgraded to 32 spoke wheels after breaking a spoke after only 150 miles.

On the other hand I've heard a lot of good things said about the LHT, but the bar-end shifters are a deal killer for me. I'm too spoiled by indexed shifters to go back to "grind'em til you find'em".

My 2 cents.

John

I own a TCX 1. All alum. I'm very anti-carbon fiber. When it fails, it fails catastrophically and its going to be very ugly if your cruising at speed. If you read around you'll see it also fails regardless of weight. I like the TCX 1 but for my weight 300, the wheels were not a good fit. I upgraded to 32 spoke wheels after breaking a spoke after only 150 miles.

On the other hand I've heard a lot of good things said about the LHT, but the bar-end shifters are a deal killer for me. I'm too spoiled by indexed shifters to go back to "grind'em til you find'em".

My 2 cents.

John

Bar ends on the LHT are NOT friction only. The shifter for the rear is indexed, as well as being able to use in friction mode although I have no figured out how to put it in friction mode. The shifter for the front derailer IS friction only, however when using it, it makes a lot of sense up front. Due to the fact you only have the three cogs to shift between and the entire range of motion to work with, you don't have to hunt around for the right placement. It's pretty intuitive. And it's really easy to adjust the trim, which is nice as well.

Bar ends on the LHT are NOT friction only. The shifter for the rear is indexed, as well as being able to use in friction mode although I have no figured out how to put it in friction mode. The shifter for the front derailer IS friction only, however when using it, it makes a lot of sense up front. Due to the fact you only have the three cogs to shift between and the entire range of motion to work with, you don't have to hunt around for the right placement. It's pretty intuitive. And it's really easy to adjust the trim, which is nice as well.


To put it in friction mode look for the little wire loop that is not on the other shifter. Flip it out and twist it. The flip it back against the shifter. You are now in friction mode.