Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - Ahh! My chain keeps coming loose!

Hey guys,

Mechanical newb here. I keep tightening my chain as best I can and after a 2 mile ride to work, my chain is looser than it started. I use my brake, I usually don't skid to stop, but I do, however trackstand at least twice on this commute.

My chain tightening technique is the spoke-pull method... is there a better way?


sorry if this has already been discussed. I tried searching already and couldn't find what I was looking for.


thanks guys!

Spoke pull method?

You're clearly not tightening your axle nuts enough. Get a longer wrench if you can't apply enough torque to tighten your nuts

Spoke pull method?


Glad I'm not the only one who doesn't know wtf that means.

i think he means that he just pulls backward on the spoke while tightening the axle to maintain a bit of tension.

if you are getting it tight enough at the beginning of the ride, the way that you are tightening the chain is not likely to be the problem. i agree, it sounds like the nuts (or skewer) holding the axle in place are loose enough that the whole wheel slides forward in the drop outs.

your just too strong! give up riding.

Spoke pull method?

You're clearly not tightening your axle nuts enough. Get a longer wrench if you can't apply enough torque to tighten your nuts

if there is something wrong all the overtightening in the world won't fix the problem.

if there is something wrong all the overtightening in the world won't fix the problem.

Since the only way for the chain to loosen is the hub slipping forwards in the drop out, I can't think of anything that could possibly "be wrong" other than he isn't applying enough torque during tightening...

ah sorry. I didn't specify. But yes, that's exactly what I'm doing, Bakaster.
But it could be that, I just replaced the rear axle nuts because the wrench I was using stripped the other ones. I was using one of those park tools, and the wrench is really skinny so it actually cut into the nuts and made them super cut up and vitually useless. but this problem surfaced right when I replaced the nuts.

so a longer wrench is probably a good answer.


thanks so much for taking the time to answer my newb question. :P

Sounds like you're using a cone wrench to tighten your nuts? Not only will this eat your nuts (yes i said it), you won't be able to properly tighten them. Get a *proper* wrench.

Are the nutted axle threads properly lubricated with grease?

ah sorry. I didn't specify. But yes, that's exactly what I'm doing, Bakaster.
But it could be that, I just replaced the rear axle nuts because the wrench I was using stripped the other ones. I was using one of those park tools, and the wrench is really skinny so it actually cut into the nuts and made them super cut up and vitually useless. but this problem surfaced right when I replaced the nuts.

so a longer wrench is probably a good answer.


thanks so much for taking the time to answer my newb question. :P

Totally exactly what someone already said (lisafilter), as I tried to do the exact same thing when I first worked on a bike.

You're using a cone wrench. Get a longer wrench and make sure it's alot wider as well so you don't mangle your nuts (hahaha)

Get a Surly Tuggnut, or one of the cheaper versions from Redline.

Yeah, I like to keep my nuts as pristine as possible.


but thanks for the help guys, I think I'm gonna pick up a big ol' fatty 15mm wrench and then tighten them. Maybe invest in a tuggnut. you guys rule.

http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/product/602606_front200.jpg

http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/product/602606_front200.jpg

This is what I use, and then just use the double wrench method to get enough torque. The double wrench method being hooking the end of one wrench into the other to extend the lever arm. Kind of hard to explain without pictures...

I hesitate to mention this because my problem is probably unique, but I took my single-speed conversion to my LBS to have it checked out. The conversion was one of the first real mechanical things I've attempted on a bike, besides easy/normal maintenance stuff. When I took it in, I specifically mentioned that the chain would loosen on a ride. Btw, I used the existing campy QR skewers, not axle bolts.

At any rate, to get my chainline, I moved a spacer from one side of the hub to the other, and everything seemed fine, and the mechanic blessed it. As I was changing a rear tire the other day I saw the problem. One side of the hub had plenty of axle to fit in the dropout, while the drive-side had maybe 1/8" of exposed axle, and did not extend entirely through dropout. I was riding partially on the thin skewer rod - amazing that the wheel didn't fall off!

I ordered new axles last week, and upon reassembly, I will be making sure there is enough exposed axle to fit through the dropout, and support the weight of the bike.

you could be overtightening the chain, and a full crank rotation under moderate-heavy load will pull on the chain too much and cause it to slip. this occurs because the chainring is never exactly centered onto the crank and if the chain is tensioned when the chainring is not at the furthest position, it will put more stress than what you've tensioned and cause axle slip.

Try greasing the threads of your axles so that you can get the axle nuts tighter without stripping the threads.

I hesitate to mention this because my problem is probably unique, but I took my single-speed conversion to my LBS to have it checked out. The conversion was one of the first real mechanical things I've attempted on a bike, besides easy/normal maintenance stuff. When I took it in, I specifically mentioned that the chain would loosen on a ride. Btw, I used the existing campy QR skewers, not axle bolts.

At any rate, to get my chainline, I moved a spacer from one side of the hub to the other, and everything seemed fine, and the mechanic blessed it. As I was changing a rear tire the other day I saw the problem. One side of the hub had plenty of axle to fit in the dropout, while the drive-side had maybe 1/8" of exposed axle, and did not extend entirely through dropout. I was riding partially on the thin skewer rod - amazing that the wheel didn't fall off!

I ordered new axles last week, and upon reassembly, I will be making sure there is enough exposed axle to fit through the dropout, and support the weight of the bike.

The skewer of the qr doesn't actually take any weight on it.

Tugnuts are a waste of money and unnecessary. Learn how to properly set up your rear wheel (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=177625&highlight=back+tension+your+walking+wheel). Read what Sloppy Robot and AfterThisNap have to say about doing it. It will work. You can pick up a stubby 15 mm wrench for under $10 at a hardware store or even sears. I got the Gear Wrench and can easily carry it with me.




http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21U01ABCK-L._SL250_.jpg

The skewer of the qr doesn't actually take any weight on it.

I figured it's not supposed to, but that was the problem I was trying to describe. The new spacing of the axle was such that it did not protrude entirely through the dropout (it came up short on the drive side). I may be wrong about my prognosis, but it certainly seems the axle is not supporting the wheel very well, and that is causing the slippage, in my odd case.

Are you using QR?

I have always had problems using QR on horizontal drop-outs and SS bikes.
The torque applied always shifts the axle.
If this is the case, consider a nut/axle combo.

If you are in fact using axle nuts,
perhaps adding some washers might help.
Keep those nuts tight.

In some cases, a chain can also be too tight, a *bit* of slack is normal.
this is because no chainring, crank, cog, bb, chain is perfect.

if you're not able to get enough torque on it w/ a wrench something is wrong


do NOT double wrench, that's a TERRIBLE idea for anything except breaking a stuck nut loose (in any mechanical field)


nuts aren't meant to be tightened but so tight, so don't put too much force on it or you will surely shear something

I think u need a chaintensioner???
Or a huge wrench to get some mega torque...

one and only method to proper tightening, get a torque wrench and a proper sized box!

(seriously) is there a guideline for the right torque to use? I'm used to doing mechanical work on cars, so this one area my tool box was already equipped for & the physics of it all makes sense, but other than the obvious trial-&-error method, I wonder if anyone bothers with actually measuring.

(seriously) is there a guideline for the right torque to use? I'm used to doing mechanical work on cars, so this one area my tool box was already equipped for & the physics of it all makes sense, but other than the obvious trial-&-error method, I wonder if anyone bothers with actually measuring.

people do, i'd ask over in the mechanics forum.

I got a bigger wrench and no more chain loosening. The newer nuts I got were a little bigger and they just required a lot more torque.

You don't need a torque wrench to tighten axle nuts and you also don't want to use too long a wrench unless you are breaking frozen nuts as then you will end up over-tightening, stripping, or breaking ****.

Experience should tell you when things are too tight / loose.

I use a 6 inch Snap on adjustable wrench (in my tool kit) or a standard length 15 mm wrench at my shop for wheel nuts and once things are tight, that wheel isn't going to budge. I also have a few antique multi wrenches that have a 15mm head, lock ring tool, and small square head for adjusting old English coaster hubs that are all of 4 inches long that also work really with my fixed gear bikes.

What you need are good quality track nuts or really good lock washers... I am partial to 50's era Sturmey Archer washers myself since they are toothy and have some lovely knurling around the edges.

With a QR and an SS, you need an external cam model like a Shimano which is probably one of the best out there... you can also add a lock washer with a QR if the QR is worn.

I had a few folks come into my shop today and they had just had their chain adjusted at one of the local shops that specializes in fixed gear bicycles... the friggin' chain was so tight the bike was damn near un-rideable.

It is such a simple job that anyone who can't do it, especially when they get paid to boggles my freaking mind.

It is such a simple job that anyone who can't do it, especially when they get paid to boggles my freaking mind.

there are so many things that statement could apply to!