Mountain Biking - Avid Brake Warble

Okay, so I installed the Code's on my bike and I'm headed for suicide.:mad:

The front brake is much, much better...nearly perfect. The rear warbles like a Turkey and still shudders. I sand the pads and clean the rotors and it's fine until it beds in again. As soon as the rear gets bedded again...shudder and warble.

Do you think it's my frame?:twitchy: Maybe my frame is twisting under the braking forces? I've got a pretty stout rear tri IMO but I could be wrong.

Maybe it's my Hope Pro II hubs? I'm at a loss for words here.

I could possibly try some Hayes or Hope rotors and see if that helps, but I'm dang near ready to sell the Codes and get some Strokers or Oro's.

I can't stand it.

Discuss...

Is it like a meadowlark or more like a redwinged blackbird?

More like a Turkey with my foot up his a55.

I wonder if my left chainstay is twisting under the pressure...surely not. The rear tire isn't creating "that much" pressure before it breaks loose.

I could try a G3 rotor, but brand new Codes just shouldn't be this way. My dad said I was a ridiculous for having $450 brakes on a bicycle, hahaha.

That's odd, I never have any of those problems with my juicy 7's and I am about due for new rotors for them being that my rotors are both wobbling and they are losing the plated finish on them and the only time I get any sound is when it's wet out. Sounds like the only way to find out is to get a different brand brake and if it still warbles it means that it isn't the brakes warbling.

Question, when you assembled the bike, did you remember to face the disc brake mounts on the frame, there is a slight chance that non faced disc brake mounts are the culprit.

I'm sorry, Ed. You're looking for real answers and it must be frustrating. My demented sense of humor gets the best of me even at the worst times.

I go with Smashy's ideas - - is there any way you can lay hands on (borrow) a different brand/thickness/pattern of rotor to throw on just to once-and-for-all rule out that variable?

BTW, there are two or three bands of turkeys on my place whom I'd love to shove a foot up theirs (or better yet, unload a 12 ga. at them). Vandals. We can get Spring and Fall turkey tags here. I might have to break down and do some population control.

I'm thinking about a Hayes v7 b/c of the cost. I don't see that a V7 would be much different though. At least the g3 has a fairly equal amount of steel versus vent space. V7's and G2's have a vent then a large part of rotor that just "GRABS" and then another vent.

I talked to a shop in Kansas City and the guys there said they threw on some Shimano rotors but they performed similarly.

Very crappy.


On a side note...Avid Codes are ridiculous. I can lock up my front wheel on pavement with a quick "1-finger" grab. Spooky.

My Juicy 5s make a pretty gross screach. My Hayes never did.

Are these the same rotors you were using with the juicy 7's?

My wife's Juicy 7s squealed like a squirrel in the spokes for months, then the noise just went away one day. My XT brakes were quiet from day 1, BTW.

My wife's Juicy 7s squealed like a squirrel in the spokes for months, then the noise just went away one day. My XT brakes were quiet from day 1, BTW.
My exact experience too! I found the XT's to be a great set of brakes, just as good as the juicy's IMO

These are new rotors, pads, brakes...everything.

I just talked to SRAM and they said I should order some organic pads. (like Gastro did)

I assumed these were organic b/c they have black backing. I'm gonna order some organics and see if it goes away.

These are new rotors, pads, brakes...everything.

I just talked to SRAM and they said I should order some organic pads. (like Gastro did)

I assumed these were organic b/c they have black backing. I'm gonna order some organics and see if it goes away.

No more than the back brake is gonna do, save your money and throw some bacon grease on there!

Or........... Maybe a nice ride at Landahl, or Fancy creek, this weekend would cure that?

No more than the back brake is gonna do, save your money and throw some bacon grease on there!That's what they do to the newbies at Whistler. They get faster in a hurry or they become bear food :D.

^^ I just spit pop all over my monitor.

No, pop isn't good for the brakes. Bacon grease FTW.

Hey, Chelboed, what ever happened to your old brakes. I could use some new ones...

Hey, Chelboed, what ever happened to your old brakes. I could use some new ones...

Yah...I wanted to keep them. Sent back to Avid. Got the Codes for free.

Does this look suspicious?
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h28/chelboed/Bike/DSC01791.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h28/chelboed/Bike/DSC01792.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h28/chelboed/Bike/DSC01793.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h28/chelboed/Bike/DSC01794.jpg

I wonder if my LBS fumbled when they bled them after they shortened the brake lines...??? I found a small amt of fluid residue on the back of the pads, inside the caliper, and on the banjo fitting. (it looks, feels, smells to me like DOT anyways)

It's either that or I have defective piston seals.

I wish I hadn't ordered the organic pads now. That's what these are LOL.

Code
O (organic)
Al (alloy backing)

I ordered the organic steel backing plate ones, so I'll see how all this works out and maybe have a set of pads extra now.

What kind did you have before and why did avid send you codes?

Juicy 5's...Avid knew I had put on some weight this year and they wanted me to be able to slow my fat hiney down.

Ding! Ding! Ding! Yep, looks like a bit of fluid. New pads/cleaing the rotors ought to solve the issue. Make sure and check to make sure no more fluid is hanging around in the pad area, obviously.