Road Cycling - I'm poor and want to triathlon

Hi everyone,

I'm new to the site, and really excited about looking for a new road bike. Unfortunately, I had no idea that road racing could set me back a small fortune! I have looked at several bike shops, and although Trek dealers seem to be the most knowledgeable, they seem to slip in how incompetent all other makes and companies are...(insufficient service, warranties, inferior products, not providing appropriate fittings...). I have been advised by one shop owner that if I buy a bike it should be Trek, Giant, GT, LaMond, or Cannondale.

I have about $500 to play with, and I've come across a couple of bikes. I was hoping to get an opinion from some folks who aren't motivated by a commission...

'04 LaMond- Nevada City $560.00
'04 Trek- 1000 $570.00
'03 Marin- Portifino $500.00
'03 Ironhorse- Triumph $449.00

I'm REALLY leaning toward the Marin (carbon fiber forks, double butted steel frame, sora gruppo, 24-spoke wheels, kevlar beaded tires)
http://www.marinbikes.com/html/spec_portofino.html

I'm concerned, because I don't know much about the reputation of Marin, and the quality of their products. I like the Lamond, and it has Tiagra rear componentry. So.... In all of my uncertainty, I have several questions:

1. Considering the Marin vs. the LaMond- would it be of more benefit to have Tiagra componentry in the rear- with Sora in the front with 32 spoke wheels (700/25 C), or Sora throughout with 24- spoke Kevlar beaded wheels (700/23 C)?

2. Is there any truth to the notion that any bike other than the top 5 brands is an inferior product? It seems dubious, but I'd like to hear your opinions.


3. I've never ridden competitively, if I fall in love with triathlons, I know I will want to upgrade in a couple of years. Should I just get the cheapest bike (the lowest quality Ironhorse- which does have carbon fiber forks, and an aluminum frame), knowing that I can save a little on components that won't ultimately effect my finish time. Does componentry make a noticeable difference to novice in actual competition? Or should I just save my money for when it matters in a couple of years?

Sorry this is so long and convoluted in places, but I really have a lot of questions. Thanks,

Rhaming

1. LeMond...better quality in the frame which is where the quality of your ride will come from. Marin typically markets their bikes via department type sporting goods stores. In my area, they are sold in Galyan's. They are what they are...I think Marin's top road bike is about $1,700. The groupset for Dura Ace, alone, costs more than that. A set of Mavic Ksyrium SSC SL wheels are about $850...just for comparison for the top/best quality. I'd be a lot more comfortable with a Trek made product like LeMond.

If you go with Tiagara you will be happier. The triple front Sora derailleur is not real reliable for quick shifting. It needs adjustment (it drives our bike mechanics nuts). The Tiagara shifter gets away from the thumb button.

2. Like everything else, the quality of the components and frame/wheels is tied to the price. Bike shops are going to carry bikes that will perform and will not end up back at the shop with an unhappy customer. You also know who made them. Not Marin, but other brands are made by distribution companies (for example, Pacific Bike makes GT mountain bikes and Schwinn and Mongoose..they buy the name and make a ton of bikes and put different decals on them). Marin makes their own stuff, but makes "afforbable" bikes. Trek, LeMond (Trek makes LeMond) make affordable to really expensive...my point is their bikes still have that "pedigree" with the hope that the entry level rider will move up with more expensive products. If you are not happy with their "affordable" products, you definitely will not be eager to plunk down a few thou for a pro bike.

Just because it says it has a carbon fork and stays, and the bike is $700...know that the quality of that carbon is not terrific. You'd be better off with a full steel or aluminum bike, IMO.

3. If you have components like Sora that are hard to shift and to keep adjusted, it definitely will impact racing. These components are not designed for racing. They are for recreational riding. The shifters and derailleurs are not designed to take a lot of abuse.
But..you have to buy the most you can afford.

The frames on these bikes you mention are good, but entry heavy frames. If you want to race now, I think you get a better bike with the LeMond over the 1000Trek. Then save up, if you like the racing, and buy a racing bike. I suggest a minimum of 105 in the Shimano line for components.

And try to get fitted for it...and if you are going to mount aero bars, try to find someone who knows how to fit them for you. You will not enjoy riding in the aero bars if they do not fit (not only where they are mounted, but the length of them as well). Typically, triathletes like the aero bars due to the type of racing tri's are. More like a time trial than a crit for example.

Hope that helps.

The Tiagra componentry on the LeMond only stretches to the rear deraileur. Shifters and cassette are still Sora. In practice, this means there is no real advantage. Other Shimano groups (Tiagra, 105, Ultegra) are 9-speed and interchangable. Personally, I'd save up an extra $200 to get to the next level of bikes (LeMond Reno, Trek 1200, Specialized Allez Sport etc). These bikes are more easily upgradeable, which you'll want to do if you break or wear out something.

For triathlons, you may like to invest in a set of aero bars, and don't forget to keep some money available for spares (good floor pump with an accurate guage, mini pump or CO2 pump, spare tubes and patch kit, tire levers, saddle bag to hold this stuff in), plus bottle cages and water bottles, helmet, bike or triathlon shorts, and perhaps a cyclocomputer.

All levels of components will make a bike move. The more expensive components perform better, are often lighter and will last longer. No bike will win a race standing still - you may yearn for better gear, but winning the race is much more about the rider than the bike.

The only essential difference between the brands will be the frames. At a given price point on mainstream brands, components used are often comprised of identical drivetrains using similar wheels, seatposts, handlebars, stems, headsets etc. The frame quality of the bigger brands is usually better than the cheaper brands, and the warranty support of a higher standard. What you have listed is not necessarily the top 5, though. If you find dealers who sell them, also check out Specialized, Fuji, Bianchi bikes. If it were my money, I'd stick to (in no particular order):
Specialized
Trek
LeMond
Giant
Fuji
Bianchi

Comfort is paramount. It will be hard for you to be competive on a bike that is incorrectly sized or with geometry that doesnt' fit you. Finding a dealer who will support you is also a good advantage. As I'm guessing this is your first road bike, a return policy or store credit policy may be an advantage if you discover after a decent ride or two that the bike isn't the right size/geometry for you.

I purchased a bike from these guys:

http://www.ibexbikes.com/Bikes-Hub-Road.html

I got a 2003 model Corrida LT 4.4. I've been very happy with the bike. I have almost 800 miles since January 1st. The componentry is much better that you will find on similarly priced bkes. By the way, the 2004 model has a better aluminum frame and a Cro-Moly fork instead of an aluminum one. (I'm not affiliated with the company. I just think that it's a super value.)

At that pricepoint, you may very well be better off getting a used bike...

Thank You!! You guys have provided tons of information. I came across a used Fuji Roubaix with Shimano 105 in the front and rear. It's a steel frame, so it rides like a cloud, and it's only $225! But the seller didn't know what year it was. (It's all blue with hot pink letters if anyone here might know...)

But, after going to so many bike shops I'd been convinced that Fuji bikes were a huge risk, and basically problems waiting to happen. I was going to sell the Fuji to get a "better" bike, but after what I've read here I may just hold on to this bike.

Thanks,

Rhaming

Nothing wrong with Fuji bikes. Sounds like you need to find a better bike shop. :)

At that pricepoint, you may very well be better off getting a used bike...

Agree. EBay is a good place to look for deals. Just make sure the bike is going to fit you before taking the plunge.

105 is far superior to what you were looking at before, and if you have a good frame underneath better components, which you do, you will feel more confident in your gear, and perform better in your events. Stick with the Fuji, at least for now, and start saving for a triathlon specific bike, if you start doing lots of them.

[QUOTE=Rhaming]Thank You!! You guys have provided tons of information. I came across a used Fuji Roubaix with Shimano 105 in the front and rear. It's a steel frame, so it rides like a cloud, and it's only $225!

oh my god, you better buy that thing! [if it fits.. even so it;s
worth more than 225]

wle.

If they were truly "knowledgeable" they, first, would not have "slipped in" the crap they did, and second, would have recommended a used bike and offered to help you find one within your budget. Ride what you've got* until you get competitive (Equipment won't win you a race, but it can lose you a race) and then, as was noted, find a shop other than those you've already visited, to help you in the future.
*I've got a friend who successfully competes in triathlons, including the Hawaii Ironman, on a stock 20 year old Lotus, so the Fuji will do just fine.

thanks everyone,

i'm keeping the fuji, and my girlfriend stumbled across a two-year old cannondale r400 with gator tires, a terry sadle, and top-bar brakes for $525.

so, it turns out we both have fairly decent entry-level bikes.

oh...

we got it when we went looking at completely different bike shops.