Electronics, Lighting, & Gadgets - niterider moab

I just bought this and I'm having some issues with it. The cables to connect the battery to the light really stink - they don't snap in at all and practically fall out on their own. Using the handlebar mount, however, that doesn't seem to be an issue (as opposed ot the helmet mount).

What is an issue is that when I hit a nice bump, pebble, or grate, the light seems to suddenly think that it's out of juice (with all four green lights lit up no less) and it goes into LED mode plunging me into immediate darkness. Not good if you're going 20+ mph. On smooth roads it seems ok but I"m constantly wondering when it's going to go out next and it rather ruins the fun of riding.

I can't figure out if this is caused by poor connectors or is an issue with the light itself - is this normal for HID lights? I'm riding along less that perfect roads on my road bike.

So you're saying it only does this when you're using the helmet mount? Do the extension cable's connectors seem less secure than a direct battery-to-light connection? Maybe your extension cable is an oddball, in which case try another.

I used to have a NR HID and it did not do that. That's not normal behavior. When it ran, it ran. The only anomolies were that in the lower-power modes, it would flicker orange sometimes, particularly when hitting bumps.

Thanks for the reply. I haven't even tried the helmet mount - the cord just falls out so easily. I'm using the handlebar mount exclusively.

just a wild idea...call me crazy....

contact niterider support

This is why you always need 2 headlights. One on the bike and one on the helmet. The helmet one doesn't need to be as expensive or bright, but it's there in case the main light suddenly goes out (which it will do if you ride at night long enough) Also, it is much easier to change a flat in the dark with the helmet light.

I contacted niterider and it turns out they did a recall because the initial release of the moab was poorly designed. Allegedly they'll send me out the new version with proper cable connections - I got an RA and mailed them the light I had just bought. Unknown what the turnaround time will be like. My expectations are low but I'll update this thread later for anyone else out there with my situation or just considering a niterider light.

I sent the moab back to niterider per their instructions on 9/24 usps priority and just got it back via ups today 10/8. They didn't call me or email me or anything to say they had received it and to tell me what they did to fix it or anything. They included some vague (to me anyway) repair notes:
in volts 12.48v/load 12.24v
burn 06:58:00 / charger is good
light - replaced ballast
charged battery
warranty
raf
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I sent it in because when I hit a bump in the road the HID shuts off and the LEDS come on instead - the LEDS are horrible. In the list of repair notes, it doesn't look like they addressed that at all but I could be wrong. However, the first decent bump I hit, like 5 minutes into my ride tonight, the same thing happened. HID off, LED on instead. Crap.
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It's been less than 30 days since I bought it (barely). I hope I can return it and get something else instead. I'd like a light that will go for 4-5 hours with very high light output and doesn't just turn off every bump on the road. I feel dumb for sending it back to the manufacturer. I should have immediately contacted the reseller and sent it back for a cash refund.

Look at the tri-newt if you are going to stay with NR. You could even ask to "test" it while there. I did my light shopping at night, and went out behind the shop to see how bright the lights were.

I don't off-road with it, but it holds up the bumpy commute just fine.

Good luck with your light!

If you want to keep the light........

The cable connector sockets are loose. If you look at them carefully, the female socket will have the two contacts a little too far apart, or they are just weak and lost some of the spring effect. I was able to tighten mine a little with a sharp thing like a pin (can't remember what I used). And squeeze them back together a little, by pusing it in to the ouside of the metal part on each side carefully. Also when you attach the cables to the bike velcro the cable close to the connector on either side to the bike frame if possible,to keep the connector from hanging loose by itself. In other words make sure riding won't put any force on the connectors. You can also use the velcro to hold the plug tighter together without fastening it to the frame, just to each other.

It's possible to ruin the cable sockets too if you try this. be carefull. Or just insist on getting new cables.