Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) - Grips

Ok, after my second commute to work this morning, I'm starting to realize what parts are just perfect to get used from the co-op, and which ones I'm going to need to go buy new.

The whole bike is used, except for the seat and the water bottle holder i stole from my fiances bike LOL.

I think the right shifter needs replaced, as either I am using it wrong or it only functions sporadically.

But the used grips I put on to replace the missing factory Trek grips DEFINITELY need replacement. My hands hurt about 10 minutes into each ride.

I am using (I think) a pair of BMX rubber grips, and I need something far more comfortable, but don't want to pay a ton.

Please offer suggestions with pics or links!

Changing the grips may or may not do anything to do with hand pain. There are a lot of potential causes, anything from setup (which covers volumes by itself) to white-knuckling. Don't go looking for a solution until you know what the problem is.

Im fairly sure its the used grips i stuck on it. they are ok for a short ride but the rubber digs in even when im not holding too tight.

Are you wearing gloves? If so how is the padding? I ride in non-padded mountain bike gloves and my hands get a bit numb on long rides.

Did you mention before the bike is a bit too small? That could be a problem too if your putting a lot of weight on your hands.

If you're talking about grips like I had on my 1998 Trek mountain bike, they are definitely made to be used with gloves. The ones I had back then had very stiff raised rubber ribs along the grip and were quite uncomfortable without gel padded gloves. You can either get new grips or a pair of gloves, or both.

I hadnt thought about gloves, but that does sound like a good idea.

Im fairly sure its the used grips i stuck on it. they are ok for a short ride but the rubber digs in even when im not holding too tight.

I second LBB's suggestion you look elsewhere for the source of the problem. Hand problems can be from:
- road vibration
- not being used to riding a bike
- a fit problem - was the bike fitted to you?
- poor riding position, which is sometimes a fit problem. Are your arms locked when riding?
- and, maybe, grips.

Speaking of gloves, Home Depot had a 2-pack of mechanics style gloves for $10, that's only $5 a pair. I bought some and cut the fingers off one pair and left the others long for this fall. They are safety yellow which is nice and the palms are padded with a big swatch of terry cloth on the back for sweat wiping, which I do frequently.

When you say your rear shifter is acting sporadically, what do you mean? Is it auto shifting when you pedal hard?

The first thing to check with a funky shifter is the cable. It could be stretched, in a bind, or kinked somewhere, or have a fray that is catching in the housing or somewhere that it transitions from housing to cable braze on, etc.

Probably the quickest thing to do is to give your barrel adjuster an adjustment and see if it performs better.

As in sometimes it shifts when I use it, and sometimes it doesnt. Does not seem to be acting on its own, or acting in a delayed fashion. It is entirely possible I dont know what Im doing. Its an 18 speed. The left shifter clearly seems to set the front gear, and the right the back.

I second LBB's suggestion you look elsewhere for the source of the problem. Hand problems can be from:
- road vibration
- not being used to riding a bike
- a fit problem - was the bike fitted to you?
- poor riding position, which is sometimes a fit problem. Are your arms locked when riding?
- and, maybe, grips.


The bike was not fitted other than for standover height. Its a 1993 Trek 800 Antelope Sport 18" frame with 26" wheels. Currently the tires are standard MTB, to be changed for slicks tomorrow. The grips are a pair I found in the used grips bin at the co-op and look like something my early 80s BMX Huffy would have had.

Not being used to riding is im sure part of it, although I have grown increasingly more comfortable (especially after raising the seat another half inch or so)

The bike was not fitted other than for standover height. Its a 1993 Trek 800 Antelope Sport 18" frame with 26" wheels. Currently the tires are standard MTB, to be changed for slicks tomorrow. The grips are a pair I found in the used grips bin at the co-op and look like something my early 80s BMX Huffy would have had.

Not being used to riding is im sure part of it, although I have grown increasingly more comfortable (especially after raising the seat another half inch or so)

I rather expect you've got a fit problem. Hand pain is often a result of having too much of your weight on them. That can be caused by a bunch of fit and ajustment problems -- bars too low, saddle tilted forward, plain wrong size.

See if you can find someone to look at your position on the bike, and see what's wrong.

As in sometimes it shifts when I use it, and sometimes it doesnt. Does not seem to be acting on its own, or acting in a delayed fashion. It is entirely possible I dont know what Im doing. Its an 18 speed. The left shifter clearly seems to set the front gear, and the right the back.

It could be a worn cassette. Bike shop guy can tell. If it only has a problem in the 3 or 4 gears you would tend to use the most, then even more likely a cassette problem.

The pain in the hands might be a bar height/frame size issue. 18" mtn. bike should fit around 5'6"-5'9" person, give or take. If you are taller, a stem extension might help (@$20 new at the shop). It will let you raise the bars 2 or 3 inches(if you have a threadless stem). good luck

Hand pain does seem to be decreasing as i ride, but I still think the grips are junk.

I dont think the bike frame is too small, im 6'2" but most of that is in torso. Im only a 30 or 31 inseam. SO I think part of it is my body adjusting to the new form of exercise, the weight on my hands being a new thing, and riding in general.

I do think raising the handlebars is a good idea, I need to look into that. Im sure I can get a stem extender either at the co-op, or new at a shop.

When looking at it, I dont think its the cassette. Left shifter has tension when you pull it, right does not. Its either the shifter, wire, or deraileur.

I took off the stock tires and put road tires on today to assist with the commute.

Bell Comfort grips. Can be found at any Walmart for about $7.00. They're soft, comfy and durable. Put a smile on my Schwinn LeTour's face.
Ernest

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b396/Gordo_Ruckus/Picture037.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b396/Gordo_Ruckus/Picture036.jpg

Hand pain does seem to be decreasing as i ride, but I still think the grips are junk.

I dont think the bike frame is too small, im 6'2" but most of that is in torso. Im only a 30 or 31 inseam. SO I think part of it is my body adjusting to the new form of exercise, the weight on my hands being a new thing, and riding in general.

I do think raising the handlebars is a good idea, I need to look into that. Im sure I can get a stem extender either at the co-op, or new at a shop.

When looking at it, I dont think its the cassette. Left shifter has tension when you pull it, right does not. Its either the shifter, wire, or deraileur.

I took off the stock tires and put road tires on today to assist with the commute.

You are the opposite from me. I m 6'2" with a 35" inseam. I would def think you need to extend the bar out to accommodate your upper torso and arm length.

big_e - I'll look into those grips this weekend.

ZombieButcher - the handlebar raise is next on the list.

Hand pain does seem to be decreasing as i ride, but I still think the grips are junk.

I dont think the bike frame is too small, im 6'2" but most of that is in torso. Im only a 30 or 31 inseam.
I do think raising the handlebars is a good idea, I need to look into that. Im sure I can get a stem extender either at the co-op, or new at a shop.

When looking at it, I dont think its the cassette. Left shifter has tension when you pull it, right does not. Its either the shifter, wire, or deraileur.

I took off the stock tires and put road tires on today to assist with the commute.

If you don't like your grips throw them away and get something else - grips can be very cheap to replace.

However, I would be very surprised if an off-the-rack 18" trek is a good fit for anyone who is 6'2". The inseam length you mention is likely 2" less than your floor-to-pubic-bone height, and that is what your bike sees- not your pant size. Also, seat height, which is affected by leg legth, can be easily adjusted... so can handlebar height... the real problem is likely top-tube length, especially if you have a very long torso... you probably look like a circus bear riding a tricycle on that thing! :D

Anyhoo, if you are getting good leg extension (almost completely straight at the bottom of the pedal stroke) then make sure your bars are not much lower than your saddle, especially on a bike with such a short top-tube (this is the real concern with a too-small bike- not leg extension).

Also make sure your saddle is not pointing nose down at all - level or slightly nose-up or your weight will slide forward and rest on your hands.

If you don't like your grips throw them away and get something else - grips can be very cheap to replace.

However, I would be very surprised if an off-the-rack 18" trek is a good fit for anyone who is 6'2". The inseam length you mention is likely 2" less than your floor-to-pubic-bone height, and that is what your bike sees- not your pant size. Also, seat height, which is affected by leg legth, can be easily adjusted... so can handlebar height... the real problem is likely top-tube length, especially if you have a very long torso... you probably look like a circus bear riding a tricycle on that thing! :D

Anyhoo, if you are getting good leg extension (almost completely straight at the bottom of the pedal stroke) then make sure your bars are not much lower than your saddle, especially on a bike with such a short top-tube (this is the real concern with a too-small bike- not leg extension).

Also make sure your saddle is not pointing nose down at all - level or slightly nose-up or your weight will slide forward and rest on your hands.

Some hybrids and comfort bikes have a sloping top tube. I'm almost exactly the same dimensions of the OP and my 18" Trek Navigator fits fine. My flat bar road bike is a 20" frame.

Some hybrids and comfort bikes have a sloping top tube. I'm almost exactly the same dimensions of the OP and my 18" Trek Navigator fits fine. My flat bar road bike is a 20" frame.

As I recall (the first job I ever had was working in a bike store that sold trek - 1991 - 1993) the 800 antelope bikes did not have radically sloping top tubes. You should know this - I thought you were a historian??? :D

I know what you mean, though - I am 6'4" and am comfortable on my brother's 20" (xtracycle enhanced) trek navigator, whereas I have never before been comfortable on any bike that was less than 21".

As I recall (the first job I ever had was working in a bike store that sold trek - 1991 - 1993) the 800 antelope bikes did not have radically sloping top tubes. You should know this - I thought you were a historian??? :D

I know what you mean, though - I am 6'4" and am comfortable on my brother's 20" (xtracycle enhanced) trek navigator, whereas I have never before been comfortable on any bike that was less than 21".

Still, the geometry of a comfort bike is not the same as a road bike. So the 18 inch might be OK for him with the body he has. As he loses weight and gains flexibility, it might no longer work for him, and then he'd have to replace it.

A Navigator turned into an xtracycle? This I gotta see. Do you have photos?

If you don't like your grips throw them away and get something else - grips can be very cheap to replace.

However, I would be very surprised if an off-the-rack 18" trek is a good fit for anyone who is 6'2". The inseam length you mention is likely 2" less than your floor-to-pubic-bone height, and that is what your bike sees- not your pant size. Also, seat height, which is affected by leg legth, can be easily adjusted... so can handlebar height... the real problem is likely top-tube length, especially if you have a very long torso... you probably look like a circus bear riding a tricycle on that thing! :D

Anyhoo, if you are getting good leg extension (almost completely straight at the bottom of the pedal stroke) then make sure your bars are not much lower than your saddle, especially on a bike with such a short top-tube (this is the real concern with a too-small bike- not leg extension).

Also make sure your saddle is not pointing nose down at all - level or slightly nose-up or your weight will slide forward and rest on your hands.

Seat is level. Im not getting quite the legs extension i want, but as i continue riding I keep slowly raising the saddle. The handlebar will have to come up pretty soon. Thats my next step, actually after buying grips today.

Seat is level. Im not getting quite the legs extension i want, but as i continue riding I keep slowly raising the saddle. The handlebar will have to come up pretty soon. Thats my next step, actually after buying grips today.

You do realise that if you raise the bars, you may not need new grips..... Although grips are like tape, quite cheap...

You do realise that if you raise the bars, you may not need new grips..... Although grips are like tape, quite cheap...

Nah, the grips I have still suck. I bought gloves because I didnt like the grips I saw at LBS, and gloves were on sale. Gonna head to Walmart later for some cheap cushy Bell grips.

I am a big fan of trekking bars, instead of the flat bars you find on most mountain bikes. Trekking bars give you multiple hand positions, rather than the one set position of flat bars. I move my hands around all the time. You can get trekkiing bars at Nashbar for about $20.. These in the pics below are Dirt Research, that I bought off of ebay. As for sizing, this is a 1992 Trek 950, 18 inch frame, 26 inch wheels. I am 5-11, with a really short 30 inch inseam. My road bike has a 54cm frame size.

With smooth tires (I have Nashbar slicks on it), this bike makes a good road bike.



http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3185/2858219480_27302e7245.jpg


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3104/2923315744_e39f46d284.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b396/Gordo_Ruckus/Picture036.jpg
Big_e, that's an odd place for your little pack - upside down and back against the seat post. What's the reason for putting it there? I have mine up against the steering post and facing up.

I hadnt thought about gloves, but that does sound like a good idea.

I've tried a number of grips but I still go back to Grab-ons (http://www.grabongrips.com/bicycle.php). They are more cushioned than rubber grips and they are never slippery no matter how much water you have on them.

And, of course, gloves.

I still havent bought the grips, and while the fingerless gloves have helped, new gribs are a good idea stil, Im convinced.

But after another few hours of ride time, Im even more convinced that the handlebars need raised. How the heck do I go about that?

I am a big fan of trekking bars, instead of the flat bars you find on most mountain bikes. Trekking bars give you multiple hand positions, rather than the one set position of flat bars. I move my hands around all the time. You can get trekkiing bars at Nashbar for about $20.. These in the pics below are Dirt Research, that I bought off of ebay. As for sizing, this is a 1992 Trek 950, 18 inch frame, 26 inch wheels. I am 5-11, with a really short 30 inch inseam. My road bike has a 54cm frame size.

With smooth tires (I have Nashbar slicks on it), this bike makes a good road bike.



Sadly, I cant see flickr images at work, but im sure its a nice ride. We've had a couple 950's come through the co-op recently, but I haven't been there to gobble them up when they have. It sounds like we're pretty close in length measurements.

I hadnt given much though to the idea of replacing the handlebars. Im pretty comfortable with where the hands are now, but if a new bar would give me more options I could be good with that.