Bicycle Mechanics - Cassettes and Chainrings

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TrekRider
03-08-04, 03:39 PM
How long do your casettes and chainrings last? I have a Trek Navigator 300 that I have put over 8,300 miles on. As of yesterday, the only original parts left are the derailleurs (damn, I hate French words!) and brake levers. Yesterday, I replaced the cassette and the chainring, and, of course, the chain. Since the bike was relatively cheap to begin with, the combined total was less than $60. Also the head wrench and LBS owner were both amazed that they had lasted over 8,000 miles.
I am preparing to buy a Lemond Zurich within the next month or so, and I know the parts will be more expensive, but they should also be better quality. How long should I expect the casette and chainrings to last?
FYI, I am going to buy an extra chain and change them once per month, degreasing the one that was on the bike as part of normal maintenance. Any other suggestions, other than the most obvious of keeping it clean and well lubricated?
The surest way I know to prematurely wear out your chainrings and cassettes is to continue to run a stretched-out chain beyond its useful life. You can get a tool that measures chain stretch. Rohloff and Park both make one, maybe other manufacturers do also. Since cassettes and chainrings generally cost several times more than a replacement chain, replacing your chain regularly before it goes out of spec and damages other components is the best prevention.
TrekRider,
You sure you want to buy a LeMond? (OK,ok, I know it doesn't have an "e" at the end the way it oughta') It sounds kinda' "francais" to moi! At least Zurich is in the German-speaking part of Switzerland. I guess the Alpe d'Huez, Tete de Course, Victoire, Maillot Jaune, Arrivee, and Tourmalet are out of consideration?
For my race (good) bike I change chains every ~3000km, for my other bikes I change them every ~5000km. I only ride in the hills so the chains do get more wear than riding on the flat due to excessive gear changes and lots of standing while climbing. Because I alternate between 3 different bikes it works out to 1 chain per bike per year.
CHEERS.
Mark
How long do your casettes and chainrings last?
Asked a similar question a while ago (http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=46475) and the main theme in the replies was: it depends (maintenance, weather conditions, pedalling style, etc.).
My previous Ultegra cassette lasted 12.000 km (ca 7,500 m). I was a bit disappointed to see it go after one year of riding. But some of the BikeForum members informed me that such a life span is not bad at all (especially given the fact that the equipment was exposed to lots of rain and mud).
Chains generally have shorter lives (I should have changed mine way earlier, in order to prevent excessive stress on the cassette).
In a shop, I was told that the rule of thumb is to change your cassette every 10.000 km (ca 6,200 m) and your chain every 5.000 km. I am sure that others have heard different opinions at their LBS.
It would be interesting to hear re: chainrings.
TrekRider
03-09-04, 04:26 PM
TrekRider,
You sure you want to buy a LeMond? (OK,ok, I know it doesn't have an "e" at the end the way it oughta') It sounds kinda' "francais" to moi! At least Zurich is in the German-speaking part of Switzerland. I guess the Alpe d'Huez, Tete de Course, Victoire, Maillot Jaune, Arrivee, and Tourmalet are out of consideration?
The Alpe d'Huez and Tourmalet are out because I don't want an aluminum frame, but I have nothing against them. I like the sloping top tube geometry, so the Arrivee, while a very nice bike, is out.
But, had I a little more money, I would buy the Maillot Jaune. Had I a lot more money, I would buy the Victoire, and if had a BUNCH more I would get the Tete de Course, no question about it.
But my budget allows me around $2,500 and the Zurich is the best bike for me in that price range. I have researched the heck out of this, and finally came to a decision last Sunday. It was the result of over a year of research, testing, and bugging the heck out of everyone I saw on a new road bike.
Rev.Chuck
03-09-04, 04:44 PM
Will you be using a "quick link" of some kind? Pushing out the pins on the shimano chains anymore than absolutely needed is a good way to invite failure.
TrekRider
03-10-04, 02:28 AM
Will you be using a "quick link" of some kind? Pushing out the pins on the shimano chains anymore than absolutely needed is a good way to invite failure.
I hadn't really thought about it, but you make a good point. I got the idea on swapping out chains from RoadBikeRider.com. I think I will submit a question to them.
Thanks, Rev.
If you use a Shimano chain but want to get it off the bike often to clean, the the best way to do it, is to buy a SRAM removable pin for the chain. Shimano will never recommend it but it works fine. I use a Dura-ace chain with SRAM pin and it has been fine for months.
CHEERS.
Mark
TrekRider
03-11-04, 02:12 AM
Will you be using a "quick link" of some kind? Pushing out the pins on the shimano chains anymore than absolutely needed is a good way to invite failure.
Jim Langley from RoadBikeRider.com answered me and said that if I was to use the two chain approach, then getting a master link was the best way to go. But, he said, changing every two weeks was overkill. He recommended using just one chain, cleaning it thoroughly on the bike every 8 weeks, and putting on a new one ever year.
I think that buying one of those chain cleaning machines might be an option.
and putting on a new one ever year.
Depending on your mileage, the weather conditions under which you are riding, etc., one chain a year might not be sufficient...
I think that buying one of those chain cleaning machines might be an option.
I heard some positive comments about the Park chain cleaning machine. Yet, my personal experience with such a device (I believe it was made by Barbieri) was far from satisfactory: the thing hardly lasted two weeks and yielded lots of rubbish and poor results.
Yet, my personal experience with such a device (I believe it was made by Barbieri) was far from satisfactory: the thing hardly lasted two weeks and yielded lots of rubbish and poor results.
I too have never had much success with those chain cleaning machines. They seemed messier than simply installing and removable link and taking the chain off the bike to clean it in the sink. I found that in addition to not getting my chain nicely clean, the machines themselves required time-consuming cleaning. Drowning the chain in cheap tupperware bowl filled with some Simple Green works great for me.
Depending on your mileage, the weather conditions under which you are riding, etc., one chain a year might not be sufficient...
I heard some positive comments about the Park chain cleaning machine. Yet, my personal experience with such a device (I believe it was made by Barbieri) was far from satisfactory: the thing hardly lasted two weeks and yielded lots of rubbish and poor results.
Keeping a chain clean is the biggest factor of long chain life. Short of an ultrasonic cleaner, the best/easiest way I've found is to remove the chain, put it into a 2 liter bottle with kerosene or mineral spirits, swirl everything around, let soak. swirl again, remove chain and wash in hot water, let dry, re-install chain on bike and then lube properly. It takes longer to type this than to remove and re-install the chain.
The easiest way to remove and re-install the chain is to use the appropriate SRAM link on your chains. I use them on all my bikes (6) and have had no problems. Makes it real simple and easy.
How do you remove the chain using the powerlink? This seems like something I should know, but I haven't removed my chain since I got a SRAM chain a few months ago. Do you just pinch the links toward each other then pull the powerlink apart with your hands?
How do you remove the chain using the powerlink? This seems like something I should know, but I haven't removed my chain since I got a SRAM chain a few months ago. Do you just pinch the links toward each other then pull the powerlink apart with your hands?
You're partially correct; you pinch the links together then push the ends of the chain towards each other. You can then separate the links and remove your chain. It may seem a little difficult at first if you've not done it before, but once you find the technique, it's easy.
may seem a little difficult at first if you've not done it before, but once you find the technique, it's easy.
It may be a bit tricky if the chain's all gunked up so you might need to squirt a bit of cleaner on the link first.
el Inglés
03-12-04, 11:07 AM
How long do your casettes and chainrings last? I have a Trek Navigator 300 that I have put over 8,300 miles on. As of yesterday, the only original parts left are the derailleurs (damn, I hate French words!) and brake levers. Yesterday, I replaced the cassette and the chainring, and, of course, the chain. Since the bike was relatively cheap to begin with, the combined total was less than $60. Also the head wrench and LBS owner were both amazed that they had lasted over 8,000 miles.
I am preparing to buy a Lemond Zurich within the next month or so, and I know the parts will be more expensive, but they should also be better quality. How long should I expect the casette and chainrings to last?
FYI, I am going to buy an extra chain and change them once per month, degreasing the one that was on the bike as part of normal maintenance. Any other suggestions, other than the most obvious of keeping it clean and well lubricated?
Good grief , the man actually rides as well !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
no , sorry cheap shot .
When I was younger and rode a large capacity ( for the time ) Suzuki ( GT750 triple 2 stroke ) we used to take the chain off , soak over night ina mix of paraffin and petrol ( outdoors of course !!! ) hang to dry for a day then soak in hot grease for 3 - 4 hours , and then exterior lub with EP140 ( real thick oil )
These days I feel it best to wash with petrol , then LEAVE TO DRY OUT SIDE !!!! and then oil with the thinest oil possible ( soak over night ? ) to allow it to penetrate . If using Shimano chain use the join pins to avoid weak points that come from pushing out and replaceing standard pins ( rather have a join link )
Have a good one Trekman . :)
cyclist2
03-24-04, 07:20 PM
If you use a Shimano chain but want to get it off the bike often to clean, the the best way to do it, is to buy a SRAM removable pin for the chain. Shimano will never recommend it but it works fine. I use a Dura-ace chain with SRAM pin and it has been fine for months.
CHEERS.
Mark
thanks, for the handy tip on the chain link, I was told a joinner link in my shimano chian would be to tight, and be unable to remouve it [defetes the purpose] so ill be cheking out your idea. Tho*s chain cleaner cartridges are about $70 over here,not verey successfull either .Can buy a top quality chian for that price, and be able to fit ajoinner.
cyclist2
Rev.Chuck
03-24-04, 09:45 PM
Shop Secret: If you want to make it easier to remove the quick link, take and old spoke, cut it to about five inches long and then bend the last inch of each end up and slightly past 90 degrees. You can use this to hook the chain together and leave a loop to work with. Also handy if you just want to install the pin or work on a stiff link.
Don Cook
03-25-04, 09:21 AM
One of my bikes is just a tad below 8,000 miles and has the original cassette and chainrings (Shimano 105). There is little noticable wear. I expect at least another 8,000 miles.
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