Road Cycling - My first longish ride

I went on a 30 mile ride today, on my first real road bike that I bought last friday. The bike is great and I am deffinatly in love with riding. There are just a couple of things I noticed and thought you guys could help me with.

First, my neck got kinda sore about 15 or 20 miles into the ride. I think I just need to build up some more muscles there, and get out of the habit of always wanting to look up.

Second, even after just about 10 miles my butt started to hurt, and by the end it got kinda bad. I think I have to build some muscles there too. I also think the nose is either too long or I need to tilt the seat forward a bit, cause the area around my johnson got kinda sore (it shouldn't be...right?). If you guys have any seat recomendations that would be swell (I'll probably just do a search).

Lastly, when riding on the hoods my arms are completely staight, with my elbows locked. I hear this isn't correct, so should I move the saddle forward? I know this will affect my knee position, which is currently over the pedel spindle, but I've heard that may not even be the best way to fit yourself on a bike.

None of those things were big enough to ruin my ride, but if there are changes I can make to help then that would be just dandy.

Thanks in advance for your input.

First, my neck got kinda sore about 15 or 20 miles into the ride. I think I just need to build up some more muscles there, and get out of the habit of always wanting to look up.

Yeah... building up the neck muscles help as well as just simply getting used to the position. Try to relax your upper body and don't grip so tight. All that muscle tenseness eventually makes its way to your neck. Also try and do some on-the-bike stretching and neck exercises. Move your hands around a lot and don't spend too much time in the drops. You might want to consider changing to a higher rise on the stem and/or one with a shorter reach to bring you to a more upright position.




Second, even after just about 10 miles my butt started to hurt, and by the end it got kinda bad. I think I have to build some muscles there too. I also think the nose is either too long or I need to tilt the seat forward a bit, cause the area around my johnson got kinda sore (it shouldn't be...right?). If you guys have any seat recomendations that would be swell (I'll probably just do a search).

Stay with your current seat for a bit. You'll have to break your butt in to get it desensitised to having pressure applied to your sitbones. Definately play with the tilt if you're hurting in that area. If it persists after about a hundred hours more riding then you can try experimenting with different saddles. While I personally don't believe in cut-out saddles, I hear they work for some people so you might want to give those a try. I tend to like the saddles from Selle Italia. they have a pretty wide range of saddle types so one might be the right one for you. What kind of saddle do you have currently? the trick is to match the area of support on the saddle to the position of your sitbones. Don't necessarily just go for a wider or softer saddle.




Lastly, when riding on the hoods my arms are completely staight, with my elbows locked. I hear this isn't correct, so should I move the saddle forward? I know this will affect my knee position, which is currently over the pedel spindle, but I've heard that may not even be the best way to fit yourself on a bike.

I would first suggest fixing your arm position with a new stem rather than with saddle position. Look for a shorter stem. This may also cure your aforementioned neck problem too. What size stem do you currently have?

What kind of saddle do you have currently?

It is the stock Fuji brand saddle that came with my bike. I think I'll stick it out a little longer like you said.

Does anyone know if the Denver Flagship REI has one of those saddle testers? If they do, I'll probably try a few and see if any are more compatible than the one I got.



What size stem do you currently have?

I am prety sure the stem is 100mm, how do I measure it to be sure. I do know that it has and angle of 6 degrees. When I do the test where you glance down and see if the handle bars line up with the hub, the stem seems right on, if anything maybe a little on the short side. I might put a shorter on on though and see if it feels better.

Thanks for all the help.

I am prety sure the stem is 100mm, how do I measure it to be sure. I do know that it has and angle of 6 degrees. When I do the test where you glance down and see if the handle bars line up with the hub, the stem seems right on, if anything maybe a little on the short side. I might put a shorter on on though and see if it feels better.

If your +/- 6 degree stem is set to the minus side you can flip it over. This will bring your bar up about 2cm and also effectively shorten your stem by about 1cm. This could get your reach where you need it and also help with the perineal pressure you were experiencing because your not leaning over as far to get to the bar.

I wouldn't pay too much attention the front hub "rule of thumb". If your elbows are locked then the stem and/or top tube is too long.

Also, you should keep your saddle fore/aft adjustments independent of the reach to the bar. If you are confortable with your saddle fore/aft position you should deal with the reach issue by a shorter stem.

Tom

I wouldn't go changing things after just one ride. Knee pain excepted. I changed for a MTB to a road bike and on the first ride (same distance) my hands were killing me. They were fine after a couple rides.

As far as your neck goes. Do some stretches before and during the ride. You should be looking up. Looking at the front wheel can get you in trouble quickly.

You butt. It will take several rides on any saddle. Remember, padding does not mean comfort. You may want to drop the nose a tiny bit. Just enough where you don't feel like you are pushing yourself back onto your saddle with your arms. A small for / aft adjustment may help too (not for the reach). I moved mine forward 7mm and it made a huge differance.

The locked elbows could be too long of a reach on the stem (measured center of the handlebars to center of the steerer). Or, it could be that you are not used to the position and are trying to sit more upright.

Again, give yourself a few rides before you change anything. You could have something just right, but you are just not used to it.

Does anyone know if the Denver Flagship REI has one of those saddle testers? If they do, I'll probably try a few and see if any are more compatible than the one I got.
Not sure about flagship REI, but a dedicated bike shop might be a better bet for a good range of quality saddles. I know Bicycle Village Aurora (on S Havana) will let you test out the saddles - certainly in-store on a test rig, and usually on your own bike too.

And do give yourself a few rides before changing anything - the road bike position is quite different and will take a little while for your muscles to adjust. In particular your core needs to get used to supporting your weight for the more bent-over position.

The stock Fuji saddles are pretty lousy, though... and I do know this from experience! Mine lasted all of one ride before getting tossed into the ever growing pile of uncomfortable plastic saddles in my garage. :)

Have you been professionally fit to the bike? If not, particulary since this is your first real roadie, I would recommend it.

55/Rad

I'd definitely suggest a Koobi saddle, particularly the AU Enduro, to cure that saddle-induced numbness.

Have you been professionally fit to the bike? If not, particulary since this is your first real roadie, I would recommend it.
55/Rad

I have not been professionally fit. How much does that go for, and where is the best place to get it done.

I think If I got a shorter stem, then it would just make me sit up more and still lock my elbows. So maybe when I ride I should just get in the habit of putting a slight bend in my elbows. I will get some more hours on the bike before I change anything. I think the seat will probably be first to go

Your reputable local bike store (LBS) will be able to do it. Costs can vary from 50-80 bucks or so for a basic to several hundred or more, depending on methodology. Check around the site and the web for articles on the importance of bike fitting - it is the single most important thing you can do to maximize both your overall comfort and performance.

55/Rad

First, my neck got kinda sore about 15 or 20 miles into the ride. I think I just need to build up some more muscles there, and get out of the habit of always wanting to look up.
.

Happened to me at first and is lessening now (been riding for 4 weeks)

One problem was that I was used to driving a car and looking quite far ahead of me for hazards. On my bike I only average 16mph, so I realized that I don't need to be constantly looking 30yards ahead, more like what's 5 yds ahead...

The neck pain could also be from how far back you have to tilt your head to see (I think this has been stated, maybe just a bit more vaguely).

When I started out riding last summer, I tried to have the "optimum" position, but I was having your problems. I then changed the stem and lowered my seat. It put me in a more upright position, but I felt better. As I've got more "numb" to the ride, I've raised my seat back up...

Kinda like machina, I've adjusted my 'vision' to scan the road about 20-30 feet ahead...Like you learn in mountain biking, let your peripheral vision take over what's close to you...sometimes your reflexes are more reliable than your conscious decisions...

I have not been professionally fit. How much does that go for, and where is the best place to get it done.

I think If I got a shorter stem, then it would just make me sit up more and still lock my elbows. So maybe when I ride I should just get in the habit of putting a slight bend in my elbows. I will get some more hours on the bike before I change anything. I think the seat will probably be first to go

I actually just went from a 130 to a 100 on my bike (the 130 was moved over to the new bike from the old one). Huge difference. I do sit up a bit more, but definately stay more relaxed in my entire upper body. I'm not sure that your hypothesis will turn out to be proven if you get a shorter stem. And, a shorter stem helped to alleviate some issues I was having with my saddle as well. Just food for thought.

Get a fitting and stop the guessing.

55/Rad

Maybe your brakes are mounted too far down on the drops. Rather than moving the brake levers on the bars, which will require retaping the bars, you could try tilting the bars to see if it makes any difference. If it does, you can then reposition the brake levers.

I think based off of all the advice that I should get a profesional bike fitting. But what if I get an $80 fitting and all they change is the stem but a few centimeters, which I was probably gonna do anyway. Whatever, I geuss thats a chance I'll have to take. Thanks for all of the help.

It is the stock Fuji brand saddle that came with my bike. I think I'll stick it out a little longer like you said.

Does anyone know if the Denver Flagship REI has one of those saddle testers? If they do, I'll probably try a few and see if any are more compatible than the one I got.




I am prety sure the stem is 100mm, how do I measure it to be sure. I do know that it has and angle of 6 degrees. When I do the test where you glance down and see if the handle bars line up with the hub, the stem seems right on, if anything maybe a little on the short side. I might put a shorter on on though and see if it feels better.

Thanks for all the help.

Was the pain in your back end muscle/internal. or did you have skin chafing from the length of time on the bike?

Was the pain in your back end muscle/internal. or did you have skin chafing from the length of time on the bike?

It wasn't chafing. It was my bones and muscles that got sore.

okay, just one more question. If I get a bike fit from a shop or something, won't they just use all of those formulas, like: seat height = inseam x .883 and so on, or is it a lot more in depth than that? Thanks

I think based off of all the advice that I should get a profesional bike fitting. But what if I get an $80 fitting and all they change is the stem but a few centimeters, which I was probably gonna do anyway. Whatever, I geuss thats a chance I'll have to take. Thanks for all of the help.

I was in the same situation as you. I knew I had to change the stem so I went to the LBS and told them that I didn't feel right on the bike and that I thought I needed a new stem. They asked me if I knew what size. I told them I didn't know for sure. They stuck the bike on a trainer and had me spin for a bit while looking at my position. They confirmed that my stem was too long so they removed it and replaced it with an adjustable stem. We played with the settings of the stem to determine proper rise and reach then figured out an appropriate angle and extension from available stems in the catalogue. They ordered me a new stem and I had it installed a week later. Total cost for the fitting was $0. Total cost for new stem and installation labour was $60. A good bike shop won't charge you for these little things. Now mind you, what they had done was not a full-blown professional fitting but it was good enough to get me fitted correctly.

BTW, here's a chart that might help you out:

http://www.habcycles.com/stemfit.jpg