Bicycle Mechanics - Indexed My Headset

I have a cheap Aheadset (made by Cane Creek) on my Trek 4300. I have had squirrely steering on it for awhile. I finally figured out that my handlebar had a tendance to want to lock into one spot when i turned.

My LBS mechanic diagnosed it as an indexed headset. In other words, it is shot.

He said he could "rebuild" it for $25 and it would last awhile. Or I could buy a new one, a better one. (he "loosened the current one up" and it works much better now) I opted for a Cane Creek S-2 threadless. They are gonna charge me $60 installed. I find the same headset in my pricepoint catalog for $29 + S/H. So roughly it is gonna cost me $25 for the labor.

I didn't want to dump a lot into such an inexpensive bike but figured i would spring for the new one instead of the rebuild. Was that a good move?

Get the new one. Once the race is indented, the balls have made impressions in it and nothing will make it go away. You can rebuild "loose ball" and this helps but will not solve the problem.

I didn't want to dump a lot into such an inexpensive bike but figured i would spring for the new one instead of the rebuild. Was that a good move?

I think that's a good move. I'm guessing the "rebuild" is probably just replacing the bearings with loose balls and repacking with clean grease. But the real problem is that the bearing races of the headset are pitted. Sure, the loose bearings won't exactly line up with the pits and it won't index as severely. But eventually it will.

I can never remember the proper name, it's "Trunndled" right?

Yeah, I agree a trunndled headset is garbage, you shoud be able to save the top cap as a spare, but that's about it!

l8r

I can never remember the proper name, it's "Trunndled" right?

Yeah, I agree a trunndled headset is garbage, you shoud be able to save the top cap as a spare, but that's about it!

l8r
Brinnelled (sp)

Yes, it was a good move to replace it. But, there is one technique I have used to sucessfully get rid of the Brinneling. Drop the fork, pull the bearings. Make a mark w/magic marker on the edge of lower and top cups. Now, remove the cups and re-install with the marks at a 90' position switch from where they were originally. Put it all back together with new bearings and grease. This moves the indented cups to a new position and will often get rid of the "lock in Center" mode.

Yes, it was a good move to replace it. But, there is one technique I have used to sucessfully get rid of the Brinneling. Drop the fork, pull the bearings. Make a mark w/magic marker on the edge of lower and top cups. Now, remove the cups and re-install with the marks at a 90' position switch from where they were originally. Put it all back together with new bearings and grease. This moves the indented cups to a new position and will often get rid of the "lock in Center" mode.

That was what he said he could do as part of the rebuild i think. Heck the thing steers great with whatever he did yesterday. I should have watched him. He said he "loosened it up a little." It steer like new now. Wonder if that would last?

You should consider the loosening only as a temporary measure. $60 to replace the old headset is a reasonable price. If you plan to continue riding this bike, then you should definitely have the work done.

Yes, it was a good move to replace it. But, there is one technique I have used to sucessfully get rid of the Brinneling. Drop the fork, pull the bearings. Make a mark w/magic marker on the edge of lower and top cups. Now, remove the cups and re-install with the marks at a 90' position switch from where they were originally. Put it all back together with new bearings and grease. This moves the indented cups to a new position and will often get rid of the "lock in Center" mode.


I've been using this trick for years; learned it from an old mechanic who saved many good Campy headsets from the scrap heap.

I've probably saved lots of $$$ on headsets.

I can never remember the proper name, it's "Trunndled" right?

'Brinelled' is the correct word for indentations made by a bearing in a bearing race; named after the Brinell hardness test, which is a test of the relative hardness of metals and alloys, determined by forcing a steel ball into a test piece under standard conditions and measuring the surface area of the resulting indentation.

I've been using this trick for years; learned it from an old mechanic who saved many good Campy headsets from the scrap heap.

I've probably saved lots of $$$ on headsets.


Now you tell me. ;)

So, what causes brinelling / indexing? I think it's starting on my commuter - if there's anything I can do to stop it in it's tracks, I'd like to!

-chris

A bit off topic here, how do you install the head set cups at home? Do you bang in it using a hammer with timber between it or use the special tool?

Here's one good place to look for headset tools; but there's lots of selection and some are pricy, so y'all gots to know what you need...

http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=999881880585&c=Tools&sc=Headset

I'd say carefully banging it in w/ a hammer and a wood block would work, if you can be assured of proper alignment, but it would probably be safer to press it in w/ a special tool(?). (I've done lots of wrenching on my bikes but never a complete headset overhaul like this, so I don't have any direct experience; Rev. Chuck or someone else who wrenches professionally can probably tell you more about this than I can, maybe more than you need to know...) :)

I think it's time for a new Chris King headset. :D j/p

New Model Park Head Race Press
Price: $115.95
Item #PA-HHP2: Includes stepped sleeves which apply pressure to the inner portion of most cup sizes. Quick release for fast installation and removal of the tool.

Note: The only safe method for installing headset cups is to "press" them into place safely, surely and evenly. Never attempt to pound them in using a hammer, as to do so will surely cause damage to the bearing surfaces and cup bodies. The HHP-2 easily and accurately aligns and presses cups, eliminating damaged, dented, chipped, or misaligned bearing cups. Their unique design permits instant removal after cups are seated, with no unscrewing to remove tool, simply slide off. The entire tool is heat treated and nickel-plated to give trouble-free service. Stepped bushings provide a precise fit and alignment for regular and oversized head and hanger cups.

This is the cheapest press available through the Bike Tools Etc. site. FYI - Note their warning regarding hammering...

I have installed dozens of headsets with a mallet and block of wood with no problems. If you have some mechanical ability, and a bit of common sense, you should be fine.

I am a mechanic so I have been installing races and bearings for years with blocks of wood and mallets, so it didn't bother me at all to try it with a bike headset. Just take your time and be patient with it. Most importantly get the cups straight and level before you go pounding on them.

Good luck

How about counter reaminging and facing the headtube and fork crown ? What's the consensus? If the tools for installation and removal of the headset and crown race can be bought reasonably, the ream/face tools are a lot more expensive and hard to justify for the home mechanic. My thought was that if you know the h'tube and crown have been done once then I'd just replace headsets, otherwise I'd get it redone. Is that a reasonable way to go?

I need to do these jobs on three bikes (not all mine) and I've been looking at the tools. I've seen some good reviews of Cyclus tools which are a good deal less expensive than park. Anyone have any experience?

It sounds like it may be possible - with care - to INSTALL a new headset without expensive tools... Can you REMOVE one without expensive tools? How?

Thanks!

-chris

The proper tool for removing heatset cups looks like http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product.aspx?i=TL707C03

You could use a screwdriver, wooden dowel, hammer, or plastic/soft metal pipe. Proberly best to avoid the screwdriver if you have an alu frame as it's easy to scratch the head tube.

Removing the crownrace is farly easy with, you can use a screwdriver or a scrap bit of wood.

I have installed dozens of headsets with a mallet and block of wood with no problems. If you have some mechanical ability, and a bit of common sense, you should be fine.

I am a mechanic so I have been installing races and bearings for years with blocks of wood and mallets, so it didn't bother me at all to try it with a bike headset. Just take your time and be patient with it. Most importantly get the cups straight and level before you go pounding on them.

Good luck

DITTO!

Great, thanks! I appreciate all the tips... ordered a new headset yesterday, so I'll give it a shot next week!

-chris