Cyclocross - Cannondale Cyclocross sizing...seems way large

Can anyone comment on Cannondale's cyclocross bike sizing? I was looking at the geometry online and google searched and it seems that the cannondales almost fit 2-4cm shorter than a roadbike.

For instance, I ride a Trek Madone 58cm and toptube is 57.2cm and standover is 78.5cm.

The Cannondale 56cm is 57cm toptube but standover is a whopping 83.2cm.

I know there shouldn't be a situation where I'd need to standover a cyclocross bike, but I've been mountainbiking plenty of times and I've been thankful that I could stand over the top tube.

From looking at other cyclocross geometry, the 56cm bikes seem to have a slightly more favorable standover (Scott, Trek, etc).

I think it is because the cannondales use standard frame geometry but the others you mention use compact frame geometry. There top tubes seem a little long though

The Cannondale has a very high BB location. This shortens the seat tube in proportion to the rest of the bike. The virtual top tube is a better indication of size.

My Trek road bike has a sloping top tube, as well. And from what it seems, the Cannondale is more of a standard geometry.

Do you know what the virtual top tube measurement is on the Cannondale cross bikes?

Still though, that standover height scares me. I'm leaning toward another brand because of this.

Cannondale (All 08 models)

Seat Tube, Top Tube, ST Angle, HT Angle, CS Length, Wheelbase, BB Drop, BB Height
58 59 73 73 43.3 104.7 58 29

Standover is irrelevant, unless you ride your bike like Fred Flintstone. Anybody obsessed with standover should consult a psychotherapist or give up bicycling. AFAIK nobody ever lost a testicle from landing on a top tube. Grow up.

My Ridley Crossbow has a somewhat similar geometry, with a relatively high standover height...after looking very carefully at the standover, I selected a 52cm frame (I'm 5' 10"). The top tube is almost 2 cm sorter than my road bikes ( I ride a 55 cm Klein and a 54 cm Merckx) but on the whole the bike is pretty comfortable. Maybe not ideal for a century but then, that's not what I bought it for. The handling is quite good.

So, I'd say test ride the Cannondale if you can...there are some basic differences between road and cross geometry. I keep reading that in various places that the sizes should be the same but that isn't my experience, to date.

Standover is irrelevant, unless you ride your bike like Fred Flintstone. Anybody obsessed with standover should consult a psychotherapist or give up bicycling. AFAIK nobody ever lost a testicle from landing on a top tube. Grow up.

Grow up? I ask a serious and decently well researched sizing question before I plunk down well over $1500 on a cyclocross bike and you are telling me to grow up? Everyone has to start somewhere, right?

Maybe you need take out your frustration on something else rather than posting something that seemingly is helpful, yet condescending at the same time.

And yes, I read past posts with sizing opinions such as yours. Still, I don't get any warm fuzzies knowing that if I slip off the seat forward, my crotch will hit long before my feet will. Like I said, I've been forward on my mountain bike once or twice (can't remember as I've been riding a MTB for a while). Granted, I was probably riding in much more extreme situations, but the point remains.

My Ridley Crossbow has a somewhat similar geometry, with a relatively high standover height...after looking very carefully at the standover, I selected a 52cm frame (I'm 5' 10"). The top tube is almost 2 cm sorter than my road bikes ( I ride a 55 cm Klein and a 54 cm Merckx) but on the whole the bike is pretty comfortable. Maybe not ideal for a century but then, that's not what I bought it for. The handling is quite good.

So, I'd say test ride the Cannondale if you can...there are some basic differences between road and cross geometry. I keep reading that in various places that the sizes should be the same but that isn't my experience, to date.

Thanks. I'm in roughly the same situation as you as I'm 5'11" with a long inseam, but there is no way I'd fit on any 58cm cross bike that I've test rode. A Trek XO in a 56cm fit me fine and I was hoping a 56cm Cannondale would, but from what I'm finding, it doesn't seem so.

hello all... new member, first post

I'm 5'11" with long legs and I ride 58 cm Cannondale road bike and cross bikes. Standover is higher on the cross bike because higher BB and larger tires [without going to my garage and measuring the differences I'd say my cross bike has a standover height 2-3 cms taller than my road bike, not a biggy] . Proper bike fit examines 1) top tube length taking into account a reasonable stem length, 2) seat tube length, 3) "standover", and 4) the overall feel and ride characteristics. It's most important to ride the bike before purchase. I have the impression you have your questions because you haven't ridden the bike yet.

hello all... new member, first post

I'm 5'11" with long legs and I ride 58 cm Cannondale road bike and cross bikes. Standover is higher on the cross bike because higher BB and larger tires

I'd say the same is true of my Ridley in relation to my road bikes. Actually, I have very little clearance over the top tube (but just enough...). I have read somewhere that many cross bikes today don't have such high bottom brackets...that doesn't seem to apply to the Ridley (or the Cannondale, I assume...).

I'm sorry I was crabby and the whole standover thing is a bit of a pet peeve.

Unfortunately the LBS doesn't stock any Cannondale cross bikes and they are strictly by order only. So, I want to make sure I fit on one properly before I commit. I'm ok on their 56cm road bikes, however.

Although, I might pass on the Cannondale and go for another brand that has a lower BB height, like a Trek, Scott or Van Dessel. The measurements of the Cannondale scare me just enough...

Also, standover for a CX bike is going to be higher simply because they use wider (taller) tires.

Use the standover height to get you close to your desired size, then go with the top tube length (or virtual top tube if the frame has a sloping top tube) to get the proper size. This is useful for someone who doesn't already have a reference bike to begin with.

Another thing to remember is that certain parts of the bike geometry can be adjusted with parts selection. Stem size and seatposts can adjust the top tube and seat tube lengths.

Also, standover for a CX bike is going to be higher simply because they use wider (taller) tires.

Use the standover height to get you close to your desired size, then go with the top tube length (or virtual top tube if the frame has a sloping top tube) to get the proper size. This is useful for someone who doesn't already have a reference bike to begin with.

Another thing to remember is that certain parts of the bike geometry can be adjusted with parts selection. Stem size and seatposts can adjust the top tube and seat tube lengths.

Right, and I understand all of that. But...to get a standover equivlant to my 58cm road bike, I'd have to get a 47mm Cannondale cross bike. And no stem will make up that amount of length in the top tube.

I know I'm probably making too much of standover, but it is what it is. Oh well, there are other options that are available but I'm really glad I researched this so that I can choose a bike and/or frame based on my riding style and preference.

Cannondale recommends that "If you ride a 56 road frame, you should choose a size 54 Cyclocross frame."
Here's the spec sheet for their Optimo 6. Check the last line.

http://video.cannondale.com/images/09/CUSA/geo/cusa_cyclocross_caad9.gif

http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/09/cusa/model-9XR6C.html

Standover is irrelevant, unless you ride your bike like Fred Flintstone. Anybody obsessed with standover should consult a psychotherapist or give up bicycling. AFAIK nobody ever lost a testicle from landing on a top tube. Grow up.


My buddy lost three of his. But he uses his feet to stop.

I don't get the discussion here. A cyclocross shouldn't have the same geometry as a road bike, so why aim for that?
It is typical Euro style to have a high BB so you can pedal more in the many corners of a cx race, so that should be a good thing.
I am 5'13 and have a 58 cm Cannondale CX, it suits me fine.

I looked at a lot of different cyclocross bikes. Some have the higher BB, but a lot seem to be going to a normal height BB. And that, to me, was more comfortable.

So, I ended up ordering a Van Dessel Holeshot frame and am going to build it up with the components that I want.

I have a C'dale X7 I purchased July. Its a size 52, I am 5'10" with 30" inseam. It fits me perfectly.

I tried telling the bike shop I needed a size 50 and was told that it would be too small. I finally relented and let them order the 52 size, glad I did now, because the smaller frame would have been too short.

Of course the bike shop sized me when the bike arrived, they changed to a shorter,higher stem, but other than that, no other changes except for seat height. I also changed to a WTB saddle from the original.

As far as standover....when I step out of my bike , it barely touches my crotch, I don't care, its not a big issue, much more insignificant than having a bike too small. Or too large for that matter.

Sorry it didnt work out for you, since I understand you purchased another bike brand.

Nothing is worse than spending bike money on a bike and it not fitting. But you don't know for sure until you ride it for over 2 hours. Been there done that..

I work at a shop that sells cannondale and trek. People always ride one size larger treks than they do cannondales.

I'm sorry I was crabby and the whole standover thing is a bit of a pet peeve.

Hey, Flargle, thanks for taking the heat on this one. Usually I'm the first guy to say something rude about it.

More seriously, is this fear of groinal collision the reason we see so many more stems angled up so much these days. Guys getting smaller frames and then finding themselves picking the bars up off the ground.

Be sure to check the correct Cannondale geometry chart for the specific cross bike you're looking at too....The geometry page above is for Cyclocross 2, 5, and 6...The Cyclocross 4 (Tim Johnson edition) and 7 are a little different.

As for sizing, I ride a 52 Cannondale Six13 and System Six. For a cross bike, I went a size down (as recommended by Cannondale) with a 50 (Cyclocross 4) and it fits like a glove! Despite being "smaller" (both in labeled size and top tube) the bike does feel "bigger" and "beefier" than the Six13 and System Six...if that make's any sense...

The cross bike's geometry is pretty much completely different than road (longer wheelbase, slacker head tube angle). Cannondale clearly has their stuff worked out.

I'm proud to be a Cannondale shill....

notice seat tube angle as well.. This is VERY important.. VERY.. I would ride a 58 cannondale, but ride a 56 cannondale cross bike.. My past cross bike had a 56 TT, but had a 74 degree seat angle. I rode other bikes with 73 seat angles, but the 56 was way too short.. So, the Cannondale has a 73 seat tube, so I can ride a 57 tt.. Unfortunately I had to go through a few bikes before someone wiser than I pointed this out, but it makes so much sense.. Anyway, if you ride a 58 trek, I'd say easily go with the 56 cannondale. Taht's what I did ..