Electric Bikes - Steel suspension fork/fork with steel dropouts?

I've decided to go with an Ampedbikes front hub motor for my ebike, but I don't want to give up my front suspension.

I've read many stories from people who've extensively used their ebikes with front hub motors and steel suspension forks (and torque arms).

However, I've been looking all over and can't find a proper steel suspension fork.

Does anybody know where I can get one? I don't want to have to use a rigid fork, and I also don't want to snap the dropouts on my aluminum one.

(The reason I'm not using a rear hub motor is that I want to keep my 8-speed casette, and I don't want to change shifters. :P)

I've decided to go with an Ampedbikes front hub motor for my ebike, but I don't want to give up my front suspension.

I've read many stories from people who've extensively used their ebikes with front hub motors and steel suspension forks (and torque arms).

However, I've been looking all over and can't find a proper steel suspension fork.

Does anybody know where I can get one? I don't want to have to use a rigid fork, and I also don't want to snap the dropouts on my aluminum one.

(The reason I'm not using a rear hub motor is that I want to keep my 8-speed casette, and I don't want to change shifters. :P)

I've been using the Crystallite 5304 on a full suspension bike with front suspension as a front driver. So far, no problem. Yes, aluminum is not a good idea, it's not strong enough. A search on the net, or a visit to one of your local bike shops should yield a steel front fork with suspension. Torque arms are a must for safety, it'll prevent a face plant in case of failure. I've got a torque arm on left side and a mini torque arm on the other side.

Also, don't take off fast and full throttle, that is when the most pressure is applied to the front forks. If you pedal assist to start and watch out should be no issues.

:)

I've been using the Crystallite 5304 on a full suspension bike with front suspension as a front driver. So far, no problem. Yes, aluminum is not a good idea, it's not strong enough. A search on the net, or a visit to one of your local bike shops should yield a steel front fork with suspension. Torque arms are a must for safety, it'll prevent a face plant in case of failure. I've got a torque arm on left side and a mini torque arm on the other side.

Also, don't take off fast and full throttle, that is when the most pressure is applied to the front forks. If you pedal assist to start and watch out should be no issues.

:)
Thank you. I've done much searching, but all I can find is one ebay auction (already ended) and various bikes that come with them as standard. Am I doing it wrong?

(The reason I'm not using a rear hub motor is that I want to keep my 8-speed casette, and I don't want to change shifters.)

7 and 8 speed cassettes/freewheels use the same spacing, which means that an 8 speed shifter will work on a 7 speed freewheel. 7speed and 8speed chains are also the same. You'll have to readjust your derailer limit screws and then you'll be good to go.*

If you use a steel suspension fork, there's still a chance the fork will tear apart when it's being pulled by the hub motor.

*5 and 6 speed freewheels use the same spacing; 7 and 8 speed cassettes/freewheels use the same spacing, 9speed and 10speed are different. total cassette width is more on an 8 speed than a 7 speed, but i believe total cassette width is the same on a 8speed and a 9speed.

Yeah, but I don't want my brother (who rides my bike occasionally) shifting to eighth gear and having the chain come off, because he has no idea how to fix anything on his bike. (He had to walk his home once because he tried shifting from "7" to "Falcon".)

I guess it doesn't matter because it's against the law for him to ride it, anyway. :P I'd just rather not go from 24-speed to 21-speed for some reason, which remains unknown to me.