Bicycle Mechanics - Alu nipple on no-eyelet rims...

Deadly sin, recipe for troubles or no big issue?

Has anyone concrete information?
No hearsaying please.

Thanks
A

I've done that combination before. Be sure to lube the rim/nipple interface before you start to bring up the tension

I've done that combination before. Be sure to lube the rim/nipple interface before you start to bring up the tension

Thanks for the reply.
I lubricate the nipples anyway.
Do you have any long term experience, maybe after riding in the rain?
I guess the major issue would be due to corrosion, after which nipples and rim could be as good as soldered.
Only I cannot assess odds and real consequences.

Not the be all end all of discussions. Just one mans opinion. From Sheldon's site. Here. (http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#nipples)

Brandt touches on this a little bit here (http://yarchive.net/bike/aluminum_nipples.html). I think he has an opposite opinion.
(http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html#nipples)

edit: didnt see the hearsay part. sorry.

somehow I´ve the feeling that you did - ;)

I already read that one and I´m aware of the *potential* issues.
How does it look in the reality it´s what I´m interested to.
The weight saving would be sure not dramatic, but more small ones make a bigger one.
My rims are anodized (after beeing drilled, I checked it) that should help to some degree against chemical soldering.

On the DS I´d use brass nevertheless.

Well in general, I avoid aluminum nipples. I don't think their weight advantage is that great over their durability. But for race wheels, all that goes out the window. I only expect race wheels to last a season or two so I will use Al nipples to save a little weight. And even with race wheels, I will use brass nipples for the driveside rear spokes.

For everyday training wheels, go with brass.

Well in general, I avoid aluminum nipples. I don't think their weight advantage is that great over their durability. But for race wheels, all that goes out the window. I only expect race wheels to last a season or two so I will use Al nipples to save a little weight. And even with race wheels, I will use brass nipples for the driveside rear spokes.

For everyday training wheels, go with brass.

The wheels I´m about to build are for long mountain races, for tubular tyres.
I won´t get more than 1000-2000km/year on those and should they last 3-4 years I´d be more than satisfied.
Then, if not earlier, I would rebuild them anyway or switch to other wheels.

As already said, on DS I always use brass.

somehow I´ve the feeling that you did - ;)

I already read that one and I´m aware of the *potential* issues.
How does it look in the reality it´s what I´m interested to.
The weight saving would be sure not dramatic, but more small ones make a bigger one.
My rims are anodized, that should help to some degree.

Didnt have my coffee yet. Yeah I decided to edit and do a little digging. I came up with the Brandt article. He says the same thing about keeping everything well oiled while tensioning. Mainly that the purpose of eyelets is to prevent galling. I think you'll be fine. The anodizing process makes the rims harder too. That in turn will also prevent the galling that Brandt is talking about.

I usually use brass nipples with non-eyeleted rims.
I'm going to try some Sapim nipple washers next time they are in stock.



http://www.biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=87193975509&d=single&c=Components&sc=Wheel-and-Rim&item_id=SA-NWR

Instead of oil I'd suggest grease to better resist any potential galling. The grease will also tend to stay close to the interface for longer than the oil so you may not even have any long term corrosion issues. But the second part is just a guess based on how smooth my brass nipples remain from being greased.

Oh, I used motorcycle chain lube for them. It goes on watery thanks to a carrier solvent and then changes to a sticky and persistent grease as the carrier dries.

There's also a chain "wax" by Maxima that dries to a consistency much like the protective sticky but fairly dry coating that comes on machine tools. That would definetly stay in place and once it dries a bit would resist galling really well. Possibly better than the grease option. And being very resistant to washing away once dried you may never see any issues with corrosion. Motorcycle shops will commonly carry the Maxima product. If the first doesn't the second you go to almost certainly will. It's very popular.

I like that idea of brass nipples on the drive side. Nice touch.

Thanks for the info regarding the lubes, I´ll se if I can find some.

As others have suggested, grease the exterior of the nipples when building. If you have difficulty turning them later, which can be an issue with both brass and aluminum nipples, just lubricate them again with something. I usually use TriFlow. No drama required :)