Singlespeed & Fixed Gear - newbie question; what type of chain should i get?

i have a khs flite-100 and i messed my original chain up today while taking it off. id like to get a chain that has a masterlink so that i dont have to buy a chaintool but i dont know what brand/model to get. can anyone help me out?

you're going to need a chain tool anyway to take links out to make the chain fit properly. anything made by KMC for BMX, save for their huge-ass 3/8" or whatever the hell it is now should be good for track. the KMC Z415 is a pretty decent one.

harris cyclery (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/chains-wide.html) has a good selection of chains that should suit your needs. the KMC chains are generally cheaper and more readily availible.

would this chain work even tho it says its inteded for multiple speed bikes?

http://harriscyclery.net/site/itemdetails.cfm?ID=722

SRAM makes removable links. Other than that, make sure yer chain is made of METAL!!! No F'n plastic chains!!!

im only so concerned about this because i messed up the original chain on my bike by accidently removing a pin from it and i want to make sure that what i replace it with has a masterlink so that i dont have to be concerned about removing pins to take the chain off!!

would this chain work even tho it says its inteded for multiple speed bikes?

http://harriscyclery.net/site/itemdetails.cfm?ID=722


that chain wasn't on the page that i linked to...which has a few chains intended for fixed gear/single speed. basically, anything that is designed for 1/8" chainrings will work.

i have an '03 flite100 and im not sure if the parts are the same but the '04 flite100's have 3/32" stock.. the jump up in size will work out alright?

If you're using a chain tool, you need to make sure you don't push the pin ALL the way through the link plate, so you're holding the loose pin in your hand - it's almost impossible to get back in! You want the pin to stay firmly in the link plate, out only just far enough to separate the two links, but no further!!!

randya, i realize that now ;P this had been my first time ever working on a chain before and i didnt think of the implications of pushing the pin all the way out..

If I may offer some advice. Do not use that master link, they do nothing but break. The same can be said for that kmc z chain. terrible, terrible stuff. Go with a oversized bmx chain.

re: " id like to get a chain that has a masterlink so that i dont have to buy a chaintool"

You're still gonna need a chain tool to break the chain to the proper length.

You can buy a master link seperately.

If you screwed up just one link you might be able to replace it with a master link and it may still be sized correctly.

Either way you still need, and should have, at least one chain tool.

The chain I have for the SS I am slowly building up is one I have never seen before. For most of the links there are holes where I would expect rivets. There are just a few links with rivets.

What is this thing?

Is it good (light) or bad (weak)?

Will somebody please explain the concept to me about running 1/8 and 3/32 chains and cogs in the same system. If it is 1/8, then run all 1/8 cogs and chainw heels. If it is 3/32 then run all that. I know that it is possible to mix the two in certain combinations but they produce a noisy unsatisfactory solution to a non existent problem. I have been running master links with either the old style of u shaped circlip on 1/8 chain and master links of the appropriate size for 3/32 for about 30 years of various track/fixed gear riding and have yet to have one fail. Not to say it can't, but it just has not been my experience. The one caveat that I will say is that you should restrict your 3/32 chains to 5-6-7-8 speed variety as the 9-10 is too lightly constructed to withstand the forces that apply in brakeless fixed gear use. This according to no other authority than John Dacy at www.BuisnessCycles who knows a fair amount about things fixed and track after having run a shop dedicated to same for lo these many years. The added benefit of running all the same sized components is that chain wear is reduced. If you like replacing components then, by all means, go ahead and mix and match. Why add an element of incompatibility to a system that is fairly simple when, if you just ran all compatible items, you would avoid all issues of wear and tear? If you can't afford to run the same components, then you will have to address the added cost of component wear in the future. Like the man say's "You can pay me now, or pay me later". You got to pay to play.


Fixedgearhead

If you're using a chain tool, you need to make sure you don't push the pin ALL the way through the link plate, so you're holding the loose pin in your hand - it's almost impossible to get back in! You want the pin to stay firmly in the link plate, out only just far enough to separate the two links, but no further!!!

yeah, i made that same mistake too. I almost threw my tool through the window trying to get that pin back in. it took me two hours to finesse it back in.

thanks for all of your help everyone. i have one last question, i have a little multitool with a chain tool built into it. should i invest in a more normal size chain tool or should i just rough it out with this small one for the time being?

thanks for all of your help everyone. i have one last question, i have a little multitool with a chain tool built into it. should i invest in a more normal size chain tool or should i just rough it out with this small one for the time being?
Get the Park chain tool. You can use the one you have for roadside repairs, but you will be happier with the more robust nature of the park tool. It will last you a lifetime.

fixedgearhead

i have a little multitool with a chain tool built into it. should i invest in a more normal size chain tool or should i just rough it out with this small one for the time being?

Multi tools are not designed to be used often. What happens is the end of the pin mushrooms from pushing against the rivet. So eventually the end of the pin will widen the hole of the link and you will start breaking chains like crazy.

This also happens in regular chain tools. That is why most pins in chain tools are replaceable.

If I may offer some advice. Do not use that master link, they do nothing but break. The same can be said for that kmc z chain. terrible, terrible stuff. Go with a oversized bmx chain.

i had the heavy duty Z chain (the one-sided one) and it worked beautifully for nearly a year with no problems...maybe it's called the K chain? and i have one of the new ****ty Z chains on one bike now, and yeah...i'm waiting for it to snnnnnap! but it seems to be holding up pretty well.

i have a sram pc-1 on both of my fixies.

The chain I refer to was the kmc z roller bushingless crap chain. I think that the 2 that I had lasted a week apeice. Granted I was riding every day from 8 in the am untill 5 or so in the pm. And I used to be kind of brutal on the chains.

The chain I refer to was the kmc z roller bushingless crap chain. I think that the 2 that I had lasted a week apeice. Granted I was riding every day from 8 in the am untill 5 or so in the pm. And I used to be kind of brutal on the chains.

http://home.earthlink.net/~kmcchain/english/koolchain_black.jpg

this is the chain i'm talking about. it looks cheesy as hell, but it worked.

http://home.earthlink.net/~kmcchain/english/410h.jpg

that one is my all time favorite low-cost, high-quality chain. the 410H. i have one on my BMX that's survived 4 or 5 years worth of sprocket stalls and grinds and all kinds of abuse. it broke once, but i replaced the link and it's still going strong.

Not really chain related but it's kind of funny. One day on my way home from work I saw my friend Dave and some others doing some street riding in Copley Sq. I stopped to say hello and what not, Cop comes running up a few moments later yelling at me about how he saw me grinding up the fountain ledge and how he was going to ticket me for it. (I was on my Basso track bike) Big argument happens for awhile and cop goes away. Pointless story I know, but how the hell can I do peg grinds on track bike with wheels far bigger than the ledge in question and no pegs on my bike?

http://home.earthlink.net/~kmcchain/english/koolchain_black.jpg

this is the chain i'm talking about. it looks cheesy as hell, but it worked.

http://home.earthlink.net/~kmcchain/english/410h.jpg

that one is my all time favorite low-cost, high-quality chain. the 410H. i have one on my BMX that's survived 4 or 5 years worth of sprocket stalls and grinds and all kinds of abuse. it broke once, but i replaced the link and it's still going strong.

oh and I prefer the bmx chains over any road or mountain bike crap. tougher and cheaper. And no master links.

If I may offer some advice. Do not use that master link, they do nothing but break. The same can be said for that kmc z chain. terrible, terrible stuff. Go with a oversized bmx chain



Hammye
What problem did you have with a masterlink? Some are good and some suck!! I had a post before about a crappy ML. Most work very well. This type is bomber:

I just never had any luck with them. They always seem to be the break on me.

This is the chain (http://www.big-wheel.com/v2/bwstore/product.phtml?p=536) I used all last summer. It is really nice except for the masterlink. The one that comes with it sucks, so you have to buy an aftermarket one. I can't find a stainless steel ML anywhere.

Where else can you get a s.s. track chain for $15.

I have changed gearing for spring/winter and thus my chain. I recently busted a PC7 with just a couple of weeks on it. I busted one inner plate. It was making a weird noise on my ride. When I got home only one inner plate was hanging on one of the links. I have replaced it with a "Kool" chain. It was the only decent one the bike shop had. It seems to be doing fine after only 200 miles.

I do not have good luck with chains.

I use SramPC-48 3/32 chains on all but one of my bikes and if you clean them often, they last at least 3000 miles each. If you are less than thorough, then all bets are off. I don't think even the highest priced chain will withstand neglect.


fixedgearhead

I don't think even the highest priced chain will withstand neglect.




I totally agree and that is another story.

The PC7 had the original factory grease still on it. The bike shop cut me a deal on the Kool chain because of that.

I am 6'5" and 200lbs. The bike shop guys said that I am hard on chains. I think that is crap. No chain should bust that soon.

I have had many chains that are problem free. I should just stick with those. But instead I always try new stuff. Live and learn.

What I do is buy a whole bunch of the chains that I like at the same time, and therefore, always have the correct chain to replace one that may go bad or wear out prematurely. You can often get a better deal on the chains if you buy in quantity. I also standardize all the chain requirements across all platforms of bike drive chains. Nothing is worse than having to go down to some local bike shop and feel you have to take what they have there in stock in order to get up and running again, rather than what you want.

fixedgearhead

The chain I have for the SS I am slowly building up is one I have never seen before. For most of the links there are holes where I would expect rivets. There are just a few links with rivets.

What is this thing?

Is it good (light in weight) or bad (weak, easy to break)?

Thanks.